diy vacuum pruge station

Glab120 · Apr 5, 2014

Glab120 said:
I couldn't find a ss chamber that I'm happy with but I got everything else finished so hopefully Tomm I'll have pics to share.

Here's a sneak peak...

Glab120 · Apr 6, 2014

Made this tonight form like 24gs of bud. Sooo fire!!!

Glab120 · Apr 7, 2014

Random trim oil...

Glab120 · Apr 21, 2014

New grow setup...GDP cross with something... One week into 12/12.

This is the first time I'm using a dual-arc bulb... So I'm excited to see if there's a difference.

Glab120 · Apr 22, 2014

Here's a better pic. I'm excited...it's been almost a year since my last grow.

ohthatguy8 · Apr 26, 2014

Ok so first time purging in the vacuum chamber first pic is on the initial purge second pic shows what happened when I released the vac to fast. My biggest question is after the first vac it was the consistency of expandable foam when it dries. Very brittle. I cleaned up the mess and pumped it down again n it didn't do much. So it's on heat now. I know I want the vac chamber to be at 115. But how hot is your hot plate to get to that temp? Mind is at 140 n the pan is only 85. It looks like honey comb now.

Solid.snake · May 11, 2014

as the last person questioned, how does everyone maintain the temperature when their purging in their chamber?

My skillet will vary in heat and i cant get it to stay within my desired range.

Solid.snake · May 22, 2014

smush it back into a glob and purge it again it should still expand but not as much. once its completly stabel at room temps both under a full vac and stays the same when you release the vac you can add heat. now while still under a full vac start adding heat but never above about 160 . the oil should return back to a sap like consistency and just bubble under a full vac at around 130 degrees.

When doing this step, how long does it take to main stability while under full vac? I'll get mine up to full vac, leave it for a few hours, come back an release the vac, smush it back into a glob, and still expands. i've tried getting to full vac and releasing and returning to full vac repeatedly in a short period of time, but no matter what it seems i cant get it to maintain stability under full vac.

I also assume by stability you meant that it wont expand any more correct?

I have a few questions, if you see this please read the PM i sent you, getting a good technique down is extremely important to me and i'll be willing to pay you for your time.

Solid.snake · May 22, 2014

Glab120 said:
does anybody have advice on how to make that super dry looking honycomb wax. I only stop purging once i have a completly stabel product at whatever temp im running it at, for an oil or shatter i only heat to 120 degrees and for wax ill heat it up to around 140. im assuming its just honeycomb wax thats budderd up from higher temps than 140 but im not sure.

I actually do nothing but make honeycomb at the moment, i use a heat purging technique for it rather than a vaccum purge, and it my honest opinon, the honeycomb i make without a vac is better than the stuff i make with one ANY day.

I method is that after scraping, collect it all onto a sticky pad (my personal choice but i think because of the material of the pad it affects the temp for the heating)

After its on a stick pad, i take my skillet and set it to 400 degrees and put a metal pan filled with water on top. on top of the pan i place a wire rack. on top of the wire rack is where you set the pad with the oil. the rising steam from the pan will heat the pad and heat the oil.

using this method. i've had honeycomb that's come out looking nearly as white as chalk.

Just got a new phone with a decent camera, so when i get the time i'll go through and type out a comprehensive guide with pictures.

Glab120 · May 28, 2014

Solid.snake said:
smush it back into a glob and purge it again it should still expand but not as much. once its completly stabel at room temps both under a full vac and stays the same when you release the vac you can add heat. now while still under a full vac start adding heat but never above about 160 . the oil should return back to a sap like consistency and just bubble under a full vac at around 130 degrees.

When doing this step, how long does it take to main stability while under full vac? I'll get mine up to full vac, leave it for a few hours, come back an release the vac, smush it back into a glob, and still expands. i've tried getting to full vac and releasing and returning to full vac repeatedly in a short period of time, but no matter what it seems i cant get it to maintain stability under full vac.

I also assume by stability you meant that it wont expand any more correct?

I have a few questions, if you see this please read the PM i sent you, getting a good technique down is extremely important to me and i'll be willing to pay you for your time.

Sry I just looked at this site... To get a stable product at room temps I'll pull a vacuum and release it about 6 times in 30 min. This usually will get it stable.

This allows you to very easily smush and form the glob and it shouldn't be sticky on the parchment paper at this Time. Put it back in the chamber and gradually add heat. When the dry looking glob returns to a sappy consistency start to vacuum agian. I usually purge for 2-4 hours depending on how much I make. Every 20-30 min I'll release the vac and reform the oil to expose new surface area. if you fold the parchment paper and put one side in your hand and hold the othe side against something cold it(the oil) will separate clean. Just repeat those steps until the oil is basically stable at 110-120 degrees.

Solid.snake · May 28, 2014

Glab120 said:
Sry I just looked at this site... To get a stable product at room temps I'll pull a vacuum and release it about 6 times in 30 min. This usually will get it stable.

This allows you to very easily smush and form the glob and it shouldn't be sticky on the parchment paper at this Time. Put it back in the chamber and gradually add heat. When the dry looking glob returns to a sappy consistency start to vacuum agian. I usually purge for 2-4 hours depending on how much I make. Every 20-30 min I'll release the vac and reform the oil to expose new surface area. if you fold the parchment paper and put one side in your hand and hold the othe side against something cold it(the oil) will separate clean. Just repeat those steps until the oil is basically stable at 110-120 degrees.

All good, just the willingness to share your information is greatly appreciated.

Just a few questions to make sure i have everything correct if you don't mind.

When you say stable, you mean will not expand even under full vac, correct? or just that it is not longer sticky and can be handled well?

And also, you said when it returns to consistency to then start the vacuum again, so when i put it back in the chamber, i'm supposed to start adding heat until it returns to the sappy consistency, THEN start the vac again?

Once again thank you for the knowledge! It's this thread that finally gave me the push to invest in a vacuum set up and I have you to thank for that glab!

Glab120 · May 28, 2014

Yes and yes.

and123w · May 30, 2014

Ok so I'm trying to figure out how to put together the lid and help would be MUCH appreciated.

So as far as I can tell you've drilled 2 holes into the lanex with both identical 3/8" female hose barbs

Then to connect the pump to the 3/8" ball joint you used a 1/4" hose from an automotive A/C recharging can.

Another female hose barb to connect the 3/8" ball joint to the 1/4" hose you bought.

A T joint hose to connect the first 3/8" female hose barb and the other tube connected to the second 3/8" ball joint which is connected to the second 3/8" female hose barb.

You then connected to vacuum pressure gauge to the second 3/8" ball joint with another 3/8" female hose?

This is my understanding of how you've built it PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. Also I'm not very savy in this stuff but the second ball joint doesn't really make sense to me couldn't I just connected the gauge with a seperate tube and not even connect it with the other tubing?

Like I said I'm very new to all this even putting my understanding of how exactly you made this almost blew my brain to bits.

http://i2. photobucket .com/albums/y41/and123w/asd_zps4db19645.png

This is what I mean for the gauge rather than connecting it with another ball joint

Glab120 · May 31, 2014

and123w said:
Ok so I'm trying to figure out how to put together the lid and help would be MUCH appreciated.

So as far as I can tell you've drilled 2 holes into the lanex with both identical 3/8" female hose barbs

Then to connect the pump to the 3/8" ball joint you used a 1/4" hose from an automotive A/C recharging can.

Another female hose barb to connect the 3/8" ball joint to the 1/4" hose you bought.

A T joint hose to connect the first 3/8" female hose barb and the other tube connected to the second 3/8" ball joint which is connected to the second 3/8" female hose barb.

You then connected to vacuum pressure gauge to the second 3/8" ball joint with another 3/8" female hose?

This is my understanding of how you've built it PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. Also I'm not very savy in this stuff but the second ball joint doesn't really make sense to me couldn't I just connected the gauge with a seperate tube and not even connect it with the other tubing?

Like I said I'm very new to all this even putting my understanding of how exactly you made this almost blew my brain to bits.

http://i2. photobucket .com/albums/y41/and123w/asd_zps4db19645.png

This is what I mean for the gauge rather than connecting it with another ball joint

If at first you don't succeed...try agian. That's about the best advise I have. U should be fine the first time. Also the first ball valve is to separate the chambers vacuum from the pump once it's at full vac... This prevents the oil in the pump from being sucked into the chamber and running your run(this sucks, trust me).

and123w · May 31, 2014

Glab120 said:
If at first you don't succeed...try agian. That's about the best advise I have. U should be fine the first time. Also the first ball valve is to separate the chambers vacuum from the pump once it's at full vac... This prevents the oil in the pump from being sucked into the chamber and running your run(this sucks, trust me).

As far as the specs though as I posted am I right? Going to be constructing this today.

and123w · May 31, 2014

Glab120 said:
If at first you don't succeed...try agian. That's about the best advise I have. U should be fine the first time. Also the first ball valve is to separate the chambers vacuum from the pump once it's at full vac... This prevents the oil in the pump from being sucked into the chamber and running your run(this sucks, trust me).

I realize the first valve is for the pump but the second one is what I was talking about.

Glab120 · Jun 2, 2014

It's hard to say (yes or no) you have everything needed.

Medusa · Jun 6, 2014

Impressive thread ! ? The darker the shatter the harsher? Can u tell me your thoughts light shat or dark the dif ... most desirable .is where i am coming from ... M

Myco · Jun 6, 2014

Not to steal @Glab120 's thunder... this thread has lots of good information, and he has some great advice.

Just my redundant .02... I get my chamber to about 110-115 with a heating pad, by turning it on a while before I plan on purging, let the chamber get up to temp. Once you throw your oil in it will warm to a more runny consistency, and once you turn on the vacuum pump and begin purging, your oil won't expand to some ungodly size/texture like in @ohthatguy8 's pic. That and while purging, the heat keeps the oil at a nice viscosity that will allow the remaining butane to more easily churn, bubble, and pop while under vacuum.

Using a hot plate/skillet in my experience has been nearly impossible to keep consistent temps. The heating pad I use is money.

I just need to stop being such a cheap ass and buy a damned vacuum oven. Bleh.

Carry on... :) Cheers.

Glab120 · Jun 6, 2014

This thread turns two years old tomorrow.

I've changed my chamber/lid design at least a dozen times. And I'm always changing my purging technique.

I'm amazed this info is still being passed around.

diy vacuum pruge station

diy vacuum pruge station

Glab120

Glab120

Glab120

Glab120

Glab120

ohthatguy8

Solid.snake

Solid.snake

Solid.snake

Glab120

Solid.snake

Glab120

and123w

Glab120

and123w

and123w

Glab120

Medusa

Trichome Engineer

Myco

Glab120

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