Drip irrigation and planters

  • Thread starter Mississip Hip
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Mississip Hip

Mississip Hip

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My planters are 16x4.

I want to hook up poly line and a rez and drip feed them.

Is this too simple?

I will use 50 gallons per planter...thats what it has taken hand watering in the past.

I will use (50) 4 gph drippers. (200 gph)

On a pump thats timed to run for 15 minutes, wouldn't that be roughly 50 gallons.


How much area will a 4 gph dripper cover? 1 sq ft? maybe 2?

I've never done a drip system so any advice would be appreciated.
 
dankworth

dankworth

1,519
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Pump driving 3/4" feed to a 3/4" loop, off of which you can attach a loop of 1/2" tubing.
The loop of 1/2" tubing(food grade vinyl from the grow store-type stuff) gets laid across the length of the bed.
Get a tool from home depot to poke holes in the bottom of the 1/2" tubing.
Insert 1/4" tees.
Drip emitters will clog.
And they will clog faster with cool organic stuff that creates any sediment in the res.
1/4" tees are basically clogproof. And you can attach 1/4" tubing to the ends of the tees to get the water where you want it to go in the bed.

Govern this with an art-dne cycle timer from CAP.

Handwater once a week if you can to even out the medium.

Then you can go somewhere else for a week.

I am typing this from the toilet right now.

Edit-be sure to make sure tubing is in a ring or a loop to equalize pressure to all the 1/4" tees.

Or you can do like Leadsled's tutorial on a drip manifold.
But then you will have to take out a loan to buy all the 1/4" "grommets" @ 37.00 apiece.

His way is cleaner and better, my way was cheaper for me at the time.

Edit- Be sure to engineer things so that your system does not siphon.
An incorrectly engineered system, when the pump shuts off, will cause the water that will drain by gravity out the tubing to "pull" water behind it. Then draining your entire res. So make sure it doesn't do that.
I personally have my 3/4" tubing go from the res to the floor, to the 3/4" loop on the floor. In this 3/4" loop I have those 3/4"-3/4"-1/2" tees that let me get the 1/2" loops to first go up from the floor, then they lay along the line composed of 3 27 gal totes in a row. I use 1/2" elbows to create 90 degree angles with the 1/2" tubing. It stays put better that way.

Done this way, my system does not syphon.

Edit-Based on the way my system performs, I would recommend about 600 gph of pump for each planter for you.

Those Stanley rolling workboxes for like $60 at home depot hold almost 50 gallons I think, they might even be 50. And they roll which is fun if you have to take it somewhere to clean it out. Easier than carrying or dragging one.
 
Mississip Hip

Mississip Hip

976
143
word.

Leadsled's tutorial is bomb.

funny....I usually hit the search feature...

got lazy....thanks..
 
C

CALIbis

22
3
I am typing this from the toilet right now.

Lol.... When I read this party I started dying laughing, because I'm on the toilet right now reading this lol................ Good read bro haha......shits funny. "literally"
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
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Use 1/2 inch pvc not poly.

Use a danner 1800 with a bypass valve so you can stir your res up everytime you water.

CAP ARt DNE short cycle timer is a must.

Get 6mm top hat grommets and a 1/2 inch unibit.

Get some black soft flex DIG 1/4" drip tube.

WAY better than poly. no leaks guaranteed.

Leadsled has a DIY on this in the DIY section. PM me if you need help.


My planters are 16x4.

I want to hook up poly line and a rez and drip feed them.

Is this too simple?

I will use 50 gallons per planter...thats what it has taken hand watering in the past.

I will use (50) 4 gph drippers. (200 gph)

On a pump thats timed to run for 15 minutes, wouldn't that be roughly 50 gallons.


How much area will a 4 gph dripper cover? 1 sq ft? maybe 2?

I've never done a drip system so any advice would be appreciated.
 

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