Fan leaf edges yellowing, tips scarlet and brown

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shibafarmer

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Hi this is my first post here and I'll try to be as thorough as possible because I'm unsure of what the problem may be. These 2 photo plants are the same age, different strains. They each have a 3 gallon fabric pot that I feed once a week with 1 gallon of fertilized pH balanced water. The composition is Fox Farm nutrients of 2 tsp Tiger Bloom, 2 tsp Liquid Plant Bloom, balanced to roughly pH 6. They've gotten this feed composition for about 1 month since February 12th. Feeding is incremental, I don't dump half a gallon in the pot and hope. Light schedule is 12/12 and similarly started February 12th. No signs of bugs of any kind that I can see. Temperatures fluctuate from roughly 69-72F during the day with a humidity level of 45-50% and drop to 60-64F with a humidity level of 55-60% during the night.

The leaves on one plant have almost all shown signs of yellowing around the edges with either purplish-red and/or brown burnt tips. Very few have developed tiny brown specs near the tips. See below.
Screenshot 20220316 185623 Gallery


The other plant hasn't shown any of these indicators until this week, which is what brings me here. Clearly I must be doing something wrong if both are exhibiting the same signs. What could this mean? How can I avoid and remedy the problem? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Screenshot 20220316 185655 Gallery
 
NorthernOrganics

NorthernOrganics

482
93
Tiger Bloom is not very good, it can cause problems. Also, your daytime temps could be higher.
 
NorthernOrganics

NorthernOrganics

482
93
Also, if you are in soil, you shouldn't worry too much about input pH. 6.0pH is low for soil.
 
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shibafarmer

10
3
Tiger Bloom is not very good, it can cause problems. Also, your daytime temps could be higher.
Ok I'll keep this in mind! Do you think Tiger Bloom may have caused this? If I had to guess it looks like a nutrient block or deficiency but it's hard to determine which. If it helps- I've used the trio Fox Farm combo (Tiger Bloom, Big Bloom, and Liquid Plant Food) since the beginning of this grow (until last month) in Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil. I didn't supplement fertilizer until they showed signs of needing them, of course. Maybe I should put Big Bloom back in the mixture? Additionally, yes, it should be a bit warmer during the day. Working on a solution for this. I appreciate your input!
 
NorthernOrganics

NorthernOrganics

482
93
I've used the Fox Farm trio as well. The Grow Big is ok for veg (I use it for my vegetable garden and houseplants now). Big Bloom is great, but crazy overpriced. Tiger Bloom is a mess, I had plants looking like yours once. I don't know what is wrong with the formulation, but it causes lockouts. I used it at half strength and the plants didn't respond well.
 
NorthernOrganics

NorthernOrganics

482
93
I read somewhere that there are two formulations of Tiger Bloom. The standard one has be known to be problematic, but allegedly there is an organic version that works better. Don't quote me, just something I remember reading about once.
 
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shibafarmer

10
3
I've used the Fox Farm trio as well. The Grow Big is ok for veg (I use it for my vegetable garden and houseplants now). Big Bloom is great, but crazy overpriced. Tiger Bloom is a mess, I had plants looking like yours once. I don't know what is wrong with the formulation, but it causes lockouts. I used it at half strength and the plants didn't respond well.
Hmm... Alright, what fert composition do you suggest I use at this point? Or should I try just normal watering? Before anything else, though, I'll flush them. Haven't flushed since changing their pots around the start of veg BUT every time I feed them a good amount of runoff flows through so I told myself it wasn't necessary. Maybe that might be a factor as well...
 
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shibafarmer

10
3
Also what should I do with the affected fan leaves? Will they revert to their green shade if I fix the problem? My brain is telling me to try a few things but keep in mind they're already over 4 weeks into flower... Unsure how much benefit or harm will come of removing the damaged ones. Sure it exposes the bud sites below but will they maintain enough water and nutrients to keep the plant healthy? So many questions... This is my first grow if it wasn't painfully obvious lol
 
NorthernOrganics

NorthernOrganics

482
93
I used the Fox Farm stuff on my first go around too. I ended up flushing like you are thinking, and not using the tiger bloom anymore. I finished flowering with different nutes. Still pulled a lb out of a 4*4.
 
NorthernOrganics

NorthernOrganics

482
93
The leaves will not change, they are damaged. I wouldn't take them off, it could stress the plants more.
 
Nectarivorous

Nectarivorous

714
143
It kinda looks like zinc deficiency? I would defer to those more experienced though. If your soil pH has dropped due to the 6ph water you may have locked out calcium also. Need to get soil pH up to 6.8-7
 
Quicksand

Quicksand

60
33
It kinda looks like zinc deficiency? I would defer to those more experienced though. If your soil pH has dropped due to the 6ph water you may have locked out calcium also. Need to get soil pH up to 6.8-7
7 might be a little high, but I think it has a pH lock….
 
ArtfulCodger

ArtfulCodger

32
18
Looks like nute burn and chronic slight over-watering to me, based on the burned tips and edges, and the pronounced texture on the leaves. Water when your pots are light, not on a schedule. When you do, water to 10% run-off. Check the ppms of the run-off of your next watering. I aim for 1000 ppms in week 6 of flower, and then I don't feed again, assuming an 8-week flower. Soil buffers pH, so I don't micro-manage it. Others will disagree. As long as my input is between 5.0 and 7.0, the soil does the rest. There's no fixing the burned leaves. Next run, water only when the pots are light and feed only when the run-off ppms fall below 1,000.
 
R

rolandrog

42
18
Looks like nute burn and chronic slight over-watering to me, based on the burned tips and edges, and the pronounced texture on the leaves. Water when your pots are light, not on a schedule. When you do, water to 10% run-off. Check the ppms of the run-off of your next watering. I aim for 1000 ppms in week 6 of flower, and then I don't feed again, assuming an 8-week flower. Soil buffers pH, so I don't micro-manage it. Others will disagree. As long as my input is between 5.0 and 7.0, the soil does the rest. There's no fixing the burned leaves. Next run, water only when the pots are light and feed only when the run-off ppms fall below 1,000.
your run-off ppm will never fall below 1,000 ppm if your using organic soil such as Fox Farm Ocean Forest. The soil may or may or not buffer pH, depending on how it was initially pH balanced. As salts build up in the soil (for many diverse reasons; but if you don't do10% run-off, the soil will naturally decrease in pH over time).
 
ArtfulCodger

ArtfulCodger

32
18
your run-off ppm will never fall below 1,000 ppm if your using organic soil such as Fox Farm Ocean Forest. The soil may or may or not buffer pH, depending on how it was initially pH balanced. As salts build up in the soil (for many diverse reasons; but if you don't do10% run-off, the soil will naturally decrease in pH over time).
I flower in FFOF and this has not been my experience. Lots of ways to grow. Good grows to all.
 
K

Kylle

51
18
Also what should I do with the affected fan leaves? Will they revert to their green shade if I fix the problem? My brain is telling me to try a few things but keep in mind they're already over 4 weeks into flower... Unsure how much benefit or harm will come of removing the damaged ones. Sure it exposes the bud sites below but will they maintain enough water and nutrients to keep the plant healthy? So many questions... This is my first grow if it wasn't painfully obvious lol
the Interveinal swelling and burnt edges scream overwatering bud. Let me guess, your brain was telling you too fix problems you think you got, so you kept adding water mixed with xyz to correct right, probably been trying something new every day? You gotta give a plant some time to recover. Don’t water again until your pot is lite when you pick it up. Also the leaves will never repair themselves.
 
jguit

jguit

Supporter
906
143
your lights on temps are too low as well. get them up to at least 80-ish.
 
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shibafarmer

10
3
the Interveinal swelling and burnt edges scream overwatering bud. Let me guess, your brain was telling you too fix problems you think you got, so you kept adding water mixed with xyz to correct right, probably been trying something new every day? You gotta give a plant some time to recover. Don’t water again until your pot is lite when you pick it up. Also the leaves will never repair themselves.
No I've been using the same concentration ratio since February (2 tsp Tiger Bloom, 2 tsp Big Bloom, balanced to roughly 6 pH) and only water once every 4-5 days when the soil is dry enough I can stick my entire index finger in and not feel moisture. They each get half a gallon and a good amount runs off despite slowly, incrementally feeding that half gallon. From what everyone has described I'm fairly sure it's a nutrient lock due to soil pH (which I literally have never measured) so my next course of action is to test the soil pH as well as runoff pH and PPM. I do not have the tools to measure this so I just ordered some which will arrive tomorrow, at which point I'll test the initial runoff before giving them a good, overdue flush
 
S

shibafarmer

10
3
Looks like nute burn and chronic slight over-watering to me, based on the burned tips and edges, and the pronounced texture on the leaves. Water when your pots are light, not on a schedule. When you do, water to 10% run-off. Check the ppms of the run-off of your next watering. I aim for 1000 ppms in week 6 of flower, and then I don't feed again, assuming an 8-week flower. Soil buffers pH, so I don't micro-manage it. Others will disagree. As long as my input is between 5.0 and 7.0, the soil does the rest. There's no fixing the burned leaves. Next run, water only when the pots are light and feed only when the run-off ppms fall below 1,000.Will
Will keep this in mind when I measure everything tomorrow. Thank you very much!
 
ArtfulCodger

ArtfulCodger

32
18
Will keep this in mind when I measure everything tomorrow. Thank you very much!
You're welcome. I hope it helps. Looks like you're going to get a yield from your first grow. Congratulations! Here's something to consider for your next run. Growing in soil, cannabis craves dry days between waterings, so all its roots get plenty of air. You might be surprised how much water is still in your pots when you're watering. Gouging around with your finger gives you an idea of how wet your soil is as far as your finger reaches. But gravity pulls water to the bottom of your pots, so the bottom of your root ball will be wet longer than the top. The only way to reliably know how much water is still in your pot is by weight. Some people use a scale. A lot of people do it by feel. Others wait to water until they see a touch of droop in the lower leaves, and then water a day earlier next time. When you chop this current grow, check your root ball to see if your roots are healthy, meaning white and fuzzy with root hairs. If not, consider watering by weight.
 

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