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Fast early yellowing and leaves pointing up.Help please.

  • Thread starter Thread starter CookingBrownie
  • Start date Start date Sep 5, 2021
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Fast early yellowing and leaves pointing up.Help please.

CookingBrownie Sep 5, 2021 106 Replies 12,718 Views
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Squatch61

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#81
If the yellowing of the leaves is from the ground up as I can see in the photo's your plants are starving for nutrients or water or both The plants are cannibalizing itself in order to feed the top growth. I had the same problem and my issue was a combination of both. I use soil in smart pots and was using a drip system thinking this would be the best way to water Wrong!! I started the deluge and thirsty method and within a week they turned around. I was only watering the top quarter of the pot and the soil was wicking on the side of the dripper meaning the bottom part of the plant was dry. I now soak the hell out of them for five minutes then let them sit for seven days before soaking again. Soil was the other issue what's the difference between a 30 dollar slurry test and a 200 dollar meter? very accurate information. I bought both however the BlueLab Soil PH pen is a lot more accurate. My 30 dollar slurry soil test showed I was good until the test pen showed it wasn't. Out of eight ladies they averaged 5.2 Soil PH with the worst being 4.9. I still don't have my soil in the 6.5 range yet but I will get there before going into flower. Hope this helps
 
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CookingBrownie

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#82
Squatch61 said:
If the yellowing of the leaves is from the ground up as I can see in the photo's your plants are starving for nutrients or water or both The plants are cannibalizing itself in order to feed the top growth. I had the same problem and my issue was a combination of both. I use soil in smart pots and was using a drip system thinking this would be the best way to water Wrong!! I started the deluge and thirsty method and within a week they turned around. I was only watering the top quarter of the pot and the soil was wicking on the side of the dripper meaning the bottom part of the plant was dry. I now soak the hell out of them for five minutes then let them sit for seven days before soaking again. Soil was the other issue what's the difference between a 30 dollar slurry test and a 200 dollar meter? very accurate information. I bought both however the BlueLab Soil PH pen is a lot more accurate. My 30 dollar slurry soil test showed I was good until the test pen showed it wasn't. Out of eight ladies they averaged 5.2 Soil PH with the worst being 4.9. I still don't have my soil in the 6.5 range yet but I will get there before going into flower. Hope this helps
Click to expand...
Yes but everyone say this method works good for to determine soil ph. I gave her nutrients but it isnt giving any result….
 
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CookingBrownie

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#83
CookingBrownie said:
Yes but everyone say this method works good for to determine soil ph. I gave her nutrients but it isnt giving any result….
Click to expand...
Watering is by hand and sometimes i get fungus but waiting to water when few cm is dry.Dont think its overwatering.Problemnl is this is the first year shit like that happens and made few succsesful same spot
 
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ComfortablyNumb

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#84
I ask about your roots because I was wondering if you had crickets or ground aphids. They can do this to the plant. And they live underground in your roots.
 
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CookingBrownie

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#85
ComfortablyNumb said:
I ask about your roots because I was wondering if you had crickets or ground aphids. They can do this to the plant. And they live underground in your roots.
Click to expand...
Been having mites and aphids battling sucsessful a few moths flying around but nothing on the leaves i have a microscope 60 100 checked the roots only a few fungus gnats and a few babies but they didnt looked like root aphids.
 
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ComfortablyNumb

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#86
CookingBrownie said:
Been having mites and aphids battling sucsessful a few moths flying around but nothing on the leaves i have a microscope 60 100 checked the roots only a few fungus gnats and a few babies but they didnt looked like root aphids.
Click to expand...
Then flush. Water them extra heavy. If it not taking food, then something is blocking it. Water flush.
 
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CookingBrownie

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#87
ComfortablyNumb said:
Then flush. Water them extra heavy. If it not taking food, then something is blocking it. Water flush.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot. My soil ph is 7 - 7.1 with what water PH should i flush them ? Only tap water no nutes right ? I watered them yesterday going to wait 3 4 days for the soil to become really dry and then flush them . What am i going to do after that ?
 
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ComfortablyNumb

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#88
CookingBrownie said:
Thanks a lot. My soil ph is 7 - 7.1 with what water PH should i flush them ? Only tap water no nutes right ? I watered them yesterday going to wait 3 4 days for the soil to become really dry and then flush them . What am i going to do after that ?
Click to expand...
Your soil should be about 6.4
Yes, only water, no nutes. Water them 3 days in a row. Then let them dry out.
 
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ComfortablyNumb

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#89
I think you needed to prep the holes first. Maybe you did, I don't know. But I do know that pH issues are something I never have because we grow in amended soil.
What kind of amendment program do you have going? You are using up your soil very quickly with your grows and you need to re-balance it.
 
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CookingBrownie

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#90
ComfortablyNumb said:
Your soil should be about 6.4
Yes, only water, no nutes. Water them 3 days in a row. Then let them dry out.
Click to expand...
What to be the PH of the water i have to use for the flush ? Water 3 days in a row as usual 5 - 6 liters a plant ?
 
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CookingBrownie

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#91
ComfortablyNumb said:
I think you needed to prep the holes first. Maybe you did, I don't know. But I do know that pH issues are something I never have because we grow in amended soil.
What kind of amendment program do you have going? You are using up your soil very quickly with your grows and you need to re-balance it.
Click to expand...
Soil is peat perlite chicken manure worm castings (soil that is there which is good because it is growing always something eatable) and little sand and a good clay soil a little. I dig holes 60 70 cm deep 100 cm wide and replace it with this mixed up soil.
The problem is only in flowering
In the vegetative there was no praying leaves or yellowing only healthy fast growing plants and the whole thing started at week 3 4 of flowering not a single problem until then and was giving nutrienta every 2rd watering and 2 times chicken manure tea and worm castings top soil dressing the 2th was 2th week of flowering didnt know if it triggered any problems.
 
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CookingBrownie

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#92
ComfortablyNumb said:
Your soil should be about 6.4
Yes, only water, no nutes. Water them 3 days in a row. Then let them dry out.
Click to expand...
Maybe water with ph 6 to lower the soil s ph to 6.5 6 ?
 
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CookingBrownie

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#93
ComfortablyNumb said:
I think you needed to prep the holes first. Maybe you did, I don't know. But I do know that pH issues are something I never have because we grow in amended soil.
What kind of amendment program do you have going? You are using up your soil very quickly with your grows and you need to re-balance it.
Click to expand...
?
 
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ComfortablyNumb

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#94
What are they growing in?
 
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CookingBrownie

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#95
ComfortablyNumb said:
What are they growing in?
Click to expand...
Soil in the ground outdoor.
 
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ComfortablyNumb

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#96
How did you prep the holes before planting?
 
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CookingBrownie

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#97
ComfortablyNumb said:
How did you prep the holes before planting?
Click to expand...
Peat worm castings perlite aged chicken manure little good clay little sand and 20 % soil that is there which is good cuz its growing vegetables always.I made a few tests slurry of the soil of the 4 plants and first came 6.4 then the 3 came 7.2 7.3 PH and the one that is having less symptoms almost none is 6.8 . The one that is doing good has dark green leaves and the leaves are not pointing up like claws from light stress like is in the most SICKest plant . The sick plants are pointig leaves up and have light green color and bud grows more slowly.
I mean 60 % plant is green and good and the leaves not pointing up and 40 % rest of the plant is bright green to yellow with purplelish stems and leaves pointing always up and i mean mega up like claws to the sun not praying. I think it is because ph stayed too long too high in the root soil zone and it got build up of salts in the soil.But how do i treat them with a flush ? With what ph of the water for the flush to lower the soils ph and how to lower it ? Any suggestions please ? They are like 2 weeks and a half from cutting and they are yellowing really fast.Bottom leaves yellow and crisp and it gets to the tops also.

Thanks for taking time and helping me!
 
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ComfortablyNumb

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#98
CookingBrownie said:
Peat worm castings perlite aged chicken manure little good clay little sand and 20 % soil that is there which is good cuz its growing vegetables always.I made a few tests slurry of the soil of the 4 plants and first came 6.4 then the 3 came 7.2 7.3 PH and the one that is having less symptoms almost none is 6.8 . The one that is doing good has dark green leaves and the leaves are not pointing up like claws from light stress like is in the most SICKest plant . The sick plants are pointig leaves up and have light green color and bud grows more slowly.
I mean 60 % plant is green and good and the leaves not pointing up and 40 % rest of the plant is bright green to yellow with purplelish stems and leaves pointing always up and i mean mega up like claws to the sun not praying. I think it is because ph stayed too long too high in the root soil zone and it got build up of salts in the soil.But how do i treat them with a flush ? With what ph of the water for the flush to lower the soils ph and how to lower it ? Any suggestions please ? They are like 2 weeks and a half from cutting and they are yellowing really fast.Bottom leaves yellow and crisp and it gets to the tops also.

Thanks for taking time and helping me!
Click to expand...
You can not safely adjust the soil pH without killing the plant or stressing it beyond recovery, not at this stage.
Pitchfork the root areas and loosen the soil gently, without moving the plants, water to flood.
 
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CookingBrownie

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#99
ComfortablyNumb said:
You can not safely adjust the soil pH without killing the plant or stressing it beyond recovery, not at this stage.
Pitchfork the root areas and loosen the soil gently, without moving the plants, water to flood.
Click to expand...
I did it already two times fołr the last week the pitchfork.Cant i water with a 6 ph flush to get rid of salt and lower ph a little with a gentle PH 6 which i think is good for the roots.
The problem im asking for another option is that the sickest plant was In a TOP form 2 weeks ago and the other plants were not showing any symptoms they started 5 6 days ago and are progressing fast.Other farmers suggested N deficiency and i gave half strenght Veg nute half strength Bloom nute and aged chicken manure tea to compensate if they were any microelements missing.I have to do something because they are getting more sick and bud stop growing .
 
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ComfortablyNumb

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#100
Water to flood. There is nothing else to do except dig up the worst one and examine the roots.
 
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Replies 106
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Started Sep 5, 2021
Latest post Sep 15, 2021
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