(Fatman's) DIY nutrient mixing guide

squarepusher · Dec 27, 2010

magnesium sulfate

organicfreak · Dec 27, 2010

Part A 4-0-1

Calcium is 4.5%

Density 1176 g/l

Derived from Calcium Nitrate and Potassium Nitrate

4 Liters of concentrate

16.72 grams of Potassium Nitrate
526.0 grams of Yara Calcium Nitrate
72.3 grams Iron DPTA 7%
_______________________________________________________________________________

Part B 1-4-2

Magnesium 1.2%
Sulphur 1%

Density 1108 g/l

Derived from: Magnesium Nitrate, Magnesium Sulphate, and Potassium Phosphate

82 grams Magnesium Nitrate
136 grams Magnesium Sulphate
135.2 grams Mono-Potassium Phosphate

Trace minerals which are:
11.1 grams Zinc Sulphate
7.8 grams Manganese Sulphate
9.9 grams Copper Sulphate
14.5 grams Boric Acid
.1 gram Sodium Molybdate

so you would substitue 82 grams Magnesium Nitrate for 82 grams Magnesium Sulphate?

so 136 grams Magnesium Sulphate + 82 grams Magnesium Nitrate
making it a total of
218 of magnesium sulphate?

squarepusher · Dec 27, 2010

where did u get this information from?

budboy299 · Dec 27, 2010

Thats a copy of canna coco A&B

I use it all the time and absolutely love it. No deficiencies since I started using it.
The magnesium nitrate I use is by haifa chemicals

In the dark cycle right now but I will take a couple pics tomorrow to show you what the plants are like. 2.5 weeks into bud.

budboy299 · Dec 27, 2010

If you substitute the magnesium nitrate in Part B with magnesium sulphate, then you would have no nitrogen in the Part B.

organicfreak · Dec 27, 2010

so what do i do? were can i get it? guy on ebay said to add magnesium sulphate and urea but now were going into some specialties lol this is my 1st batch trying to k.i.s.s. do you have a supplier i could get the haffia from?

organicfreak · Dec 28, 2010

k ty rick..
Do you think its a problem it beign technical grade? SAYS NOT SAFE 4 FOOD!
I search net and all the labels... seems THERE IS A DIFFERENCE between technical grade,and agriculture grade,but i cant see what it is...
Mg3N2 + 6 H2O... anybody have an opion??

budboy299 · Dec 29, 2010

The place where I got mine from (no mail orders sadly) had 2 grades. Lab or technical, and greenhouse grade.

Lab or technical grade was 99% purity and over 150.00 per 50kg
greenhouse grade was between 95% and 98% and $100.00 per 50kg

They told me it is identical except for purity. For fertilizer use greenhouse grade, and for testing and labratory use use the purer grade.

both though are suitable for fertilizers but only the lab grade is suitable for testing.

That was the fertilizer suppliers comments. They had both and would of gladly sold me either so I tend to believe them on this.

Seamaiden · Dec 29, 2010

OF, when it says "not for food" they mean that you can't use it IN food. Not for direct (human) consumption.

organicfreak · Dec 30, 2010

ty guys for response's...

yeah i got the haffia 50lb bag of magnisal for 56$ good deal?

ive also heard amazing stuff about HAFFIA ... also it looks from there specs that there stuff works with WIDE VARITIES OF PH...

im thinking about buying these from haffia and throwing away the small amounts i bought fromcropking,ebay,hydrogardens...
what do you think about these from haffia instead?

1. multi-cal (calcium nitrate)
2. multi-mkp (mono-potasium phosphate)
3. multi-map (momo-ammonium phosphate)
4. multi-k (potassium nitrate)
5. magnisal (magnesium nitrate)

and then there micros are chelated and i read a long artical from A.N.'S big mike and he said how quality nutrients can be known by them being chalated... and i believe this is how there going to a PH PERFECT,OR NOT NEEDED TO BE ADJUSTED nute line??????

so what do you think about these and would these throw off the grams/amount called for in our recipes?

1.multi-micro (iron fe-eddha 6%)
2.multi-micro (managanese mn-edta 13%)
3.multi-micro (zinc zn-edta 14%)
4.multi-micro (copper Cu-edta 14%)

whatcha think?
would you buy these instead of the stuff from cropking,ebay,hydrogardens?

THANKS
O

budboy299 · Dec 30, 2010

I've got and use #'s 2-5 on your haifa list. Only thing to make sure of is that its for greenhouses...the other type is for field use and is coated with a sort of wax for slow delivery.

The micros I would simply use according to the manufacturers recommendations. Although sometimes we make MJ out to be a holy plant..it is still just a plant.
It is VERY similar in requirements as tomatos. Go with what they recommend and if it is off by a bit...more than likely it is in the calcium or magnesium as MJ seems to demand a higher amount of these.

budboy299 · Dec 30, 2010

Seamaiden...big thanks...I did not even catch the part about not eating it. Kind of went right by me.

organicfreak · Jan 8, 2011

good day all...
anywho i have a moma in soil and rest are in coco and im feeding the soil gh bio line, but want to start making my own nutrients for soil...
doesnt have 2 be organic lol kinda past that... just want somthing to work... i figure ill try them both and 1st 1 to work wins....

any suggestions?

was going to run the canna coco A&B since ive been told basically they just added calmag + to there recipe,and i use an r.o. unit for water so this is ok,
but i believe they also lowered the potassium cause coco gives off more potassium?

thanks
o

Jalisco Kid · Jan 14, 2011

I would look into haifa's polyfeed mar which had kelp. This could make your base and go from there. Haifa also makes a hydro polyfeed better then greenhouse grade. I would also look into their aminos as I have found them to work best. JK

Jalisco Kid · Jan 14, 2011

You can find 70% fulvic acid for less then 7 bucks a lb if you can afford 50lbs bags. I split mine with my patients. Last a while. JK

squarepusher · Jan 14, 2011

organicfreak said:
good day all...
anywho i have a moma in soil and rest are in coco and im feeding the soil gh bio line, but want to start making my own nutrients for soil...
doesnt have 2 be organic lol kinda past that... just want somthing to work... i figure ill try them both and 1st 1 to work wins....

any suggestions?

was going to run the canna coco A&B since ive been told basically they just added calmag + to there recipe,and i use an r.o. unit for water so this is ok,
but i believe they also lowered the potassium cause coco gives off more potassium?

thanks
o

you could just use a normal formula (not coco) and feed it every so often with hydro noots. It doesn't have to be organic, thats only if you organic garden. Coco needs extra cal/mag caus it leeches it from the solutions

organicfreak · Jan 15, 2011

ty for replies...

jk ur saying hafia has amino's they sell?
i just got ahold of there sales person and he said no sales of the micro's in the u.s but he's getting me a retailer to sell me 1-5 on my list(macros) im really excited.. im tossing all my small amounts i bought through cropking/hydro-gardens and using gg haffia
I HEARD AMAZING THINGS...

square pusher
are u saying to just use somthing like connie? FOR SOIL MIX
now with canna your right they add extra cal/mag isnt this a good thing since i use a revers osmosis water my initial ppms..000???
my concerns is i believe they mess with potasium and sulpher to acount for coco holding onto these???

yea im totally done trying to be organic haha but would be cool to use just canna since thats what i have made, BUT PLEASE IF YOU THINK ILL HAVE BETTER RESULTS WITH CONNIE OR SOMTHING ELSE PLEASE SAY SO...

THANKS A BUNCH GUYS
O

organicfreak · Jan 15, 2011

also check out this site guys name is g.low he wrote Integral Hydroponics and its now in 4th edition(has to be popular)any who he has new books comming out for mixing and making your own nutrients...
could be helpfull to any newbies...

A RECIPE FOR COCO BUFFER,

a recipe for bushmater which if you dont know stops the strech and promote bushyness...

is the book /nutrient calculator

very helpfull 4 me on the coco link.... i use the 8$ compressed bails from hydrofarms says omri listed, but fucking filthy 2500-3000 ppm's..
basicaly he recomends soaking it in city water to expand,flushing after broken up in city water to remove the high ppms and then placing it in the homemade coco buffer(4 salts) then coco is ready to be used or mixed...

and imho this is were i went wrong with coco

1. i was doing the soak an the flush with city water ph7
NOW I ADJUST TO 5.8 IN A TRASH CAN INSTEAD OF STRAIGHT OUT OF HOSE..
2.didnt buffer after soak
as we all know cec is the way nutrients are taken up..
a buffer adjust your ph/cec
and like a said be4 i own hanna hi99121 killer digital ph meter has atc feature for temp compensation and most importantly you can test SEVERAL spots deep,or shallow inside the pot... lol alternative digging down to the roots desterbing everything then 5:1 ratio water to coco in a seperate cup.. NOT TO ACURATE OR TIME EFFICENT imho...
after several months of battling IM 99% SURE ph @6.6-7.0 WAS MY PROBLEM...
even though i was feeding 5.8
O

squarepusher · Jan 15, 2011

organicfreak said:
ty for replies...

jk ur saying hafia has amino's they sell?
i just got ahold of there sales person and he said no sales of the micro's in the u.s but he's getting me a retailer to sell me 1-5 on my list(macros) im really excited.. im tossing all my small amounts i bought through cropking/hydro-gardens and using gg haffia
I HEARD AMAZING THINGS...

square pusher
are u saying to just use somthing like connie? FOR SOIL MIX
now with canna your right they add extra cal/mag isnt this a good thing since i use a revers osmosis water my initial ppms..000???
my concerns is i believe they mess with potasium and sulpher to acount for coco holding onto these???

yea im totally done trying to be organic haha but would be cool to use just canna since thats what i have made, BUT PLEASE IF YOU THINK ILL HAVE BETTER RESULTS WITH CONNIE OR SOMTHING ELSE PLEASE SAY SO...

THANKS A BUNCH GUYS
O

Connie should work fine with soil, and you may want to also add something like Sweet Candy. IF you are using 0ppm water then a coco formula might be good even too like you mentioned.

Jalisco Kid · Jan 19, 2011

Here is there aminos,bottom page JK

(Fatman's) DIY nutrient mixing guide

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