Fertilization With Foliar Absorbed Nutrients- Priming The Pump

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jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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When discussing foliar absorbed nutrients several concepts need to be clarified. The first concept one needs to understand is that the "non-root" parts of plants can and will take up nutrients from nutrient sprays and other applications. This concept has been shown over a long period of time by many researchers.

Foliar absorption of mineral nutrients by above ground plant parts including leaves stems and flowers have been reported for over 200 years. Interest however has been mainly since the 1950's. this interest has grown over the years because of the increased costs of fertilizers, environmental concerns about leaching and runoff, a better understanding of how to facilitate the absorption process and a better understanding of plant growth. Minor element deficiencies in fruit have been corrected by foliar applications for 80 to 90 years. More recently over the last 40 years or so, foliar absorption of the macronutrients has also been studied extensively. It is now known that not only nutrients can be absorbed but also pesticides, growth regulators, organic acids and many carbohydrates.

Among the advantages to foliar absorbed nutrients include the fact that they can be rapid and effective, with quick plant response. Because they are so effective they require less fertilizer input by avoiding soil fixation, leaching and runoff. They are applied to the leaf blade and allowed to remain there until fully absorbed. You do not water in. Today we have the knowledge of how plants grow in order to make the most effective use of this technique. Other advantages revolve around the fact that they are effective when the turf has a restricted root system from such things as being closely mowed, periods of environmental stress, seasonal root loss, periods of low photosynthetic output and correspondingly low carbohydrate reserve.

Some nutrients become fixed in the soil and results in low efficiency as a root absorbed nutrients. Foliar applications of nutrients as a supplementary fertilizer are highly effective.

Factors affecting foliar absorption.

Several factors will affect foliar absorption include relative humidity, temperature, pH of the nutrient solution, variety of the turf, age of the leaf, concentration of the nutrient solution, difference in the nutrient compounds(formulations) us of surfactants and the addition of non-nutrient facilitating or carrier-mediated agents.

Humidity and temperature have a direct relationship with absorption of nutrients and as they increase, penetration also increases. The total amount of time the nutrient is in contact with the leaf is critical. Optimum pH is a factor that varies from nutrient to nutrient and most good formulators recognize the need to have optimum pH for the nutrient used.

Many chemical compounds are ineffective as foliar nutrients. For example Shafer and Reed studied a total of 31 organic and inorganic potassium compounds for their efficacay as a foliar fertilizer. Their results showed a broad spectrum in foliar absorption of potassium from both organic and inorganic carriers. Studies from other researchers on many other nutrient compounds show similar results.

Modern Foliars

The effectiveness of modern foliar fertilizers varies significantly and is directly proportional to the quality of the product. Using both organic and inorganic facilitating agents to transport the cations into and throughout the plants has become a very exact science and is the main difference in the claims between companies in the foliar business. Golf course superintendents need to separate facts from claims and get a high degree of confidence in the company they choose to work and to purchase from. The process of building excellent foliar fertilizers is an exacting and complex one.

Many humic and organic materials have the capacity to bind substantial amounts of metals and other cations, and they can therefore exert considerable control over the supply and availability of nutrient elements to plants and in water.

When the metal ion combines with an electron donor, the resulting substance is said to be a complex or coordination compound. If the donor atoms are attached not only to the metal ion but also to each other as well forming a ring, it creates a chelate.

There are good complexes and bad complexes and there are good and bad chelates. Some of the organic agents used in these products are: humic acids from many sources, fulvic acids, ligno sulfates, amino acids, sugars and carbohydrates, hydrolyzed protein mixes and derivatives from the wood pulp industry. Many of these have low stability constants and when mixed with anions such as phosphates may result in precipitation. Once again select your products wisely. Organics are biodegradeable and available to the plant and the soil micro community as an energy source.

Since the 1950's synthetic chelating agents have been used as aids in plant nutrition. Among the more popular ones are EDTA, HEDTA and EGTA, and others. They are cost effective and can be effective if used properly but they are generally not biodegradable. Synthetic chelating agents are intended to be used in the soil to prevent the attached nutrients from forming a bond with the soil colloids and remain more available for root uptake. In general however they do not work well as foliar fertilizer agent.

Synthetic chelates are used extensively in many agriculture and turf products. Some researchers have reported that they may remain as a residue in the plant tissue or in the soil tying up other nutrients and they provide no additional energy source.

Mobility

Absorption is only one aspect of a foliar fertilizer. In addition, the absorbed nutrient generally must be translocated throughout the plant. While absorption is a key process in selecting a foliar applied nutrient, the extent of redistribution or mobility of each nutrient in the plant is an important consideration also.

Buyer Beware

There is little regulation over the complexing and chelate foliar industry:

  • The presence of an organic or synthetic chelating agent in the formulation legally makes the product a chelate regardless of how much is in the mix.
  • It does not matter whether there is enough chelating agent in the mixture to chelate all the metals in the formulation or not to be considered a chelate.
  • Any agent that can be shown to cause chelation is considered a chelate, without regard to whether it is stable or not.
  • Unstable chelates that precipitate when mixed with anions, such as phosphorous, are poorly absorbed by the plants and do not translocate well in the plant.
  • The concentration of these complexing and chelating agents in the various formulations need not be on the label.
The best chelating agents are those that are natural components found in the metabolism of the plant and they should compose a high concentration within the formulation.

In his thesis for his PH. D. degree from Michigan State University in 1956 H.B. Tukey Jr. researched Nutritional Foliar Sprays. He made this observation:

"Foliar fertilizers produce quick, visible results and can increase the effectiveness of fertilizer applications to the soil, reducing total amounts of fertilizer applied."

He showed that it works like this:
In photosynthesis; sunlight, carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, water and nutrients, along with chlorophyll in the leaf, combine to produce carbohydrates for plant growth and health. The nutrients in the soil are soluble in the ground water and enter the plant with the water through the membrane of the roots and are carried up the xylem tissue and distributed throughout the leaf where the carbohydrates are produced. The carbohydrates are then distributed throughout the plant and carried by the phloem to the root for storage.

When we apply foliar fertilizer containig the proper nutrients for photosynthesis directly to the leaf, the plant begins to produce more carbohydrates and in the process requires more water. The stomata on the leaf open allowing water vapor to escape, which reduces the water pressure in the xylem tissue allowing more water to flow up the vascular bundle. In turn more water is absorbed into the roots to replace the water moving up. If good nutrition is available in the soil surrounding the root, extra nutrients enter the plan with the water.

If you visualize the plant as a water pump, the foliar fertilizer acts as a primer, priming the pump and bringing more nutrition into the plant.

It is important to remember that the foliar fertilizer actually increases the total uptake of nutrients by several folds over the small amount of foliar fertilizer applied.

The application Foliar Fertilizers do not replace the soil applied fertilizer, but increases their uptake.
 
Snake Oil

Snake Oil

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Nice post man, so many good foliar feeds. I recommend foliar feeding in the dark a hour or two before lights on, turn off all fans. Allow the RH to get above 60% so the stoma of the plant opens and lets the nutrient soak into the plant cells instead of just evaporating on the leafs surface. Rinse off foliar applied nutrients with fresh water before applying more. A lot of products like kelp, aminos, humates, sugars and tria are better absorbed thru the leaves than the roots.
 
Dunge

Dunge

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Wiki:
Foliar feeding is a technique of feeding plants by applying liquid fertilizer directly to their leaves.[1] Plants are able to absorb essential elements through their leaves. The absorption takes place through their stomata and also through their epidermis. Transport is usually faster through the stomata, but total absorption may be as great through the epidermis. Plants are also able to absorb nutrients through their bark.

This must be why using a wetting agent is useful to penetrate the waxy epidermis.
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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As many times as you want @LittleDabbie without overdoing it. I like the fact its a much quicker response than root feed. I use foliar at times to diagnose where the girls are lacking. Better than dealing with a 55 gal rez change over. I typically foliar feed once a week with good results. Again take care not to over fert as that is harder to correct than under fert.
 
Dunge

Dunge

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Is the "pump priming" model of foliar feeding a rain response?
Does nutrient uptake / water flow in the root zone go up in response to rain?
I spray Caps beneficials and neem detergent now and then but have never added nutrients this way.
I'm ready to try it, but I need some deficiency to prod me.
A bit of calcium chlorate by foliar is said to prevent "end rot" in tomatoes.
It's said that marijuana has like problems with calcium motility to fruit ends, and might benefit from direct Ca delivery via foliar.
I'm looking for confirmation on any of this, as so far it's all hear say to me.
Ready to spray.
Dunge
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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You know, @Dunge -- that's something I hadn't really thought about, but knowing that a not insignificant amount of NO3 can be delivered via rainfall, your question makes a lot of sense. But I'm not sure that the flow would go up in response to rain, given my own understanding of how VPD works.

Next time you get BER on your tomatoes though, try something like Sea-90 as a foliar. I spent lot of time adding more and more Ca, trying to get watering just perfect, could not stop big losses to BER. Then one day I decided to give my tomatoes the last of the Sea-90 foliar I was giving my ladies, and fuck me if it didn't stop the BER, damn near in its tracks! Two foliars and we were done with BER. Better yet? Your tomatoes come pre-sea salted. :D
 
Bulldog11

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Great post and concept. I can attest to foliar applications. Last season my soil tests came back with low trace elements. Instead of trying to throw rock dust on the soil and water in with teas, hoping it would become plant available sometime that season I foliar sprayed MicroPak from American Eco Agriculture with fantastic results. Really improved the quality of the herb, and now in the off season I will correct the soil deficiency.

I am at a little bit of a loss with this statement: "Humidity and temperature have a direct relationship with absorption of nutrients and as they increase, penetration also increases. The total amount of time the nutrient is in contact with the leaf is critical. Optimum pH is a factor that varies from nutrient to nutrient and most good formulators recognize the need to have optimum pH for the nutrient used."

and other statements made about optimal conditions for foliar sprays.......... I am sure at a microscopic level, certain times of the day and certain temps are more conducive to immediate uptake. However I imagine the phylloplane just at the rhizosphere, where the microbes will take care of the break down and the transfer of nutrients to the plant. I wouldn't think it would matter if the plant surface is still wet from the foliar application, the nutrients are still on the leaf surface, along with the microbes to break it down.

Something I think about while smoking joints staring at the plants.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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My interpretation is that they're telling us that, as with any kind of interaction, we've got to be cognizant of VPD (vapor pressure deficit) and the limitations of pH.

I'm not so sure that there's quite the same suite of microbes, from a behavioral or functional standpoint, on the leaf surfaces as in the rhizosphere, but it's also not something I've really looked into beyond stuff like disease control.
 
CaliShark

CaliShark

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Great post and concept. I can attest to foliar applications. Last season my soil tests came back with low trace elements. Instead of trying to throw rock dust on the soil and water in with teas, hoping it would become plant available sometime that season I foliar sprayed MicroPak from American Eco Agriculture with fantastic results. Really improved the quality of the herb, and now in the off season I will correct the soil deficiency.

I am at a little bit of a loss with this statement: "Humidity and temperature have a direct relationship with absorption of nutrients and as they increase, penetration also increases. The total amount of time the nutrient is in contact with the leaf is critical. Optimum pH is a factor that varies from nutrient to nutrient and most good formulators recognize the need to have optimum pH for the nutrient used."

and other statements made about optimal conditions for foliar sprays.......... I am sure at a microscopic level, certain times of the day and certain temps are more conducive to immediate uptake. However I imagine the phylloplane just at the rhizosphere, where the microbes will take care of the break down and the transfer of nutrients to the plant. I wouldn't think it would matter if the plant surface is still wet from the foliar application, the nutrients are still on the leaf surface, along with the microbes to break it down.

Something I think about while smoking joints staring at the plants.

Just like Sea said. The relationship they are talking about between temperature and humidity is VPD. Which plays a roll in the trigger of the opening and closing of the stomata. If the humidity or temperature is to high or low the stomata will close. It's only when these two parameters are at the correct level will the stomata be open to its full capacity. The stomata being open results in better absorption of nutrients in foliar sprays. That's why people suggest 60% RH and higher, and spray at night because that's when that stomata is most likely to be open.

The time in contact is simple, the longer the leaf stays wet the more nutrients it can absorb. If you spray and the water is evaporated by low humidity or air movement from fans then the plant won't have an opportunity to absorb those nutrients. So get RH high, turn off fans, and dehumidifiers when you spray let plats absorb for an hour or so then turn everything back on.

The ph plays a roll just like it would in the root zone to high or low and the plant can't absorb or use the nutrient. I don't have any knowledge on specific ph for each nutrient. Just make sure it's near the neutral.

Image
 
Bulldog11

Bulldog11

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Great chart and explanatoin indeed.

I think my overall point is, the microbes on the leaves will take care of the breakdown in nutrients on the plant leaf surface. When it does so, it doesn't really matter what the VPD is, as long as it doesn't wash off, and lasts until the VPD ratio is ideal again for optimal uptake. We don't take about what time of day is best for our organic army to feed in our soil, why should we with the phylloplane?

Maybe I am just nit picking, and I totally get your last explanation. However, if I remember correctly the best time to spray is at 3-4am. I will try to find my notes on that and why. Thanks again for the discussion you guys.
 
showmegreen

showmegreen

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I just optically foliar fed my brain by ingesting this read and y'alls input. Very good! Thanks.
Has anyone tried a I guess you would say "dry" foliar feed?
Maybe by obtaining designated nutrients that are pulverized down to the micronic level. Introduced by
using say a sealed recirculatory
ventilation system. Then secondarily applying nebulized "fog" solutions to create a vehicle for the process of transfer for the desired mineralized
nutrients?
You could really fine tune that to anywhere you wanted to take it. Talk about control.
Is there any literature on something of this nature? I dont want to be the idiot reinventing the proverbial wheel or nothin. Jus too stoned to member if I heard of this before. If not id like to hear more.
Man the more I learn from you brilliant individuals, the more sciency I wanna git. Thank you!
 
showmegreen

showmegreen

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To add also.
Couldn't you theoretically constuct the being of a "rootless" plant by utilising the controls of such nutrient applicating system. Introducing only needed items at the definite time and in their optimum forms for ideal ingestion? Wonder if it'd still be organic derr...
 
CaliShark

CaliShark

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Great chart and explanatoin indeed.

I think my overall point is, the microbes on the leaves will take care of the breakdown in nutrients on the plant leaf surface. When it does so, it doesn't really matter what the VPD is, as long as it doesn't wash off, and lasts until the VPD ratio is ideal again for optimal uptake. We don't take about what time of day is best for our organic army to feed in our soil, why should we with the phylloplane?

Maybe I am just nit picking, and I totally get your last explanation. However, if I remember correctly the best time to spray is at 3-4am. I will try to find my notes on that and why. Thanks again for the discussion you guys.

Yes the benefical microbes will help the break down of the nutrients into a more plant available form, but the plant still needs water to help absorb those nutes. It's to my understanding, water is how the plants uptake the tiny particles of nutes and carry them through out the plant. I don't think the plant can grab ahold of the particle itself and absorb it. I think it needs to be attached to a water molecule. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

We don't talk about time of day in our root zone because it's not effected as much as above ground on the leafs surface. The root zone and leafs surface are two very different environments. Let's get this straight. Outdoors we talk about time of day because for one the morning time 3-4am or right before sunrise, the RH is usually at its highest point of the day resulting in the stomata being open. Plus we like to spray in the dark to avoid damaging the plant from spraying during the day. So the best time for outside is dawn when the RH is high and the stomata is open and the sunlight isn't intense to burn the plant.

Now on the inside where we control the environment, time of day doesn't mean shit. As long as our VPD is in check our stomatas should be open allowing absorption of nutes. Yet we still like to spray during the dark cycle for the same reason as we would outside. We don't want to damage the plant from the lights. It just so happens the best time to spray indoors is right before lights on.
 
VERMONTSKUNKS

VERMONTSKUNKS

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Ultimatley......irregardless of what we think the minute humans touched this plant it started downhill. Mother nature had no issues making this weed thrive.
 
VERMONTSKUNKS

VERMONTSKUNKS

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Just like Sea said. The relationship they are talking about between temperature and humidity is VPD. Which plays a roll in the trigger of the opening and closing of the stomata. If the humidity or temperature is to high or low the stomata will close. It's only when these two parameters are at the correct level will the stomata be open to its full capacity. The stomata being open results in better absorption of nutrients in foliar sprays. That's why people suggest 60% RH and higher, and spray at night because that's when that stomata is most likely to be open.

The time in contact is simple, the longer the leaf stays wet the more nutrients it can absorb. If you spray and the water is evaporated by low humidity or air movement from fans then the plant won't have an opportunity to absorb those nutrients. So get RH high, turn off fans, and dehumidifiers when you spray let plats absorb for an hour or so then turn everything back on.

The ph plays a roll just like it would in the root zone to high or low and the plant can't absorb or use the nutrient. I don't have any knowledge on specific ph for each nutrient. Just make sure it's near the neutral.

View attachment 468619
Yeah because im sure tent growers see a huge humidity shift during lights out, I know I do because I refuse to keep fans on 24/7, fucken waste of energy! Talk about its all about ideal conditions?!
 
Bulldog11

Bulldog11

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Cali Shark - you know your stuff. Thanks for sharing. Your insight has given me another way of looking at our dear cannabis plant. For which, I am grateful, :). Thank you.

ShowMeGreen - The nutrients I use for foliar application are micronized and balled so they are as easy for the plant to break down and adsorb as possible. Also, on my list of things to buy this year is a fogger. A fogger gets the particle size of the nutrient spray down to very small particles as well. It also helps shoot the spray 20ft, which helps with my outdoor monsters. As far as a "dry" spray, like CaliShark said, it's better to have moisture for complete transfer of nutrients through our leaf surfaces.

As far as I see it, you can spray with raw ingredients mixed your self, (alfalfa, kelp, SRP ext) with a hand held sprayer and still be as effective in the long run as micronized nutrients and foggers. I however, like to push the limits, and I enjoy the extra work.
 
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