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First Ever Grow, No Til, Documenting Every Learning Step

Nettles, yarrow, chia, fennel, clover, cilantro, beans (legume fixes N). Any weeds will do. I use annual rye grass. Rye has a deep root system so it keeps the soil very well aerated as well as catching leached nutrients.
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First Ever Grow, No Til, Documenting Every Learning Step

by FutureGrower · Started Nov 30, 2017
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Organikz

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#181
Nettles, yarrow, chia, fennel, clover, cilantro, beans (legume fixes N). Any weeds will do. I use annual rye grass. Rye has a deep root system so it keeps the soil very well aerated as well as catching leached nutrients.
 
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Ecompost

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#182
Rcubed said:
Love how nasturtiums repel cabbage loopers. Some of my outdoor crop was damaged by their larvae
Click to expand...
Nice work bro
I do on occasion, use Tragetted nematodes, BTi-K and or Beauvaria Bassiana where i get failures in my control crops. usually this is at the tail ends of the season, ie early or late. This is partly due as well to a reduced number of natural predators at these loose ends of the growing season, as a context to my application. Some insects might need to be put under some external pressure by me, as in the case of aphids, which can arrive very early, dont even bother to procreate, preferring instead to directly clones themselves where good food sources and a lack of pressure prevail. As such, rather than let this get out of hand on my young plants, I would possibly treat if hand management was out of the question.

The thing for me, learn what it is you might be squashing, before you squash it. Some beneficial insect eggs look like they might be a problem if you see them underside your leaves, but how many growers know for real what a ladybug egg looks like and thats a common insect right?
 
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Ecompost

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#183
Organikz said:
Nettles, yarrow, chia, fennel, clover, cilantro, beans (legume fixes N). Any weeds will do. I use annual rye grass. Rye has a deep root system so it keeps the soil very well aerated as well as catching leached nutrients.
Click to expand...
its also highly mycorrhizal that rye grass :-)
 
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Organikz

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#184
i like how rye and clover kind of work together in balancing soil C:N. I know where the soil stands based on the clover or the rye thriving.

learned that a lot of folks used the combination to balance their lawn soil before applying the final grass seed.
 
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FutureGrower

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#185
Organikz said:
Nettles, yarrow, chia, fennel, clover, cilantro, beans (legume fixes N). Any weeds will do. I use annual rye grass. Rye has a deep root system so it keeps the soil very well aerated as well as catching leached nutrients.
Click to expand...

What would happen if you used a parenial grass? Would it just overtake the pots and suffocate your crop?
 
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Organikz

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#186
FutureGrower said:
What would happen if you used a parenial grass? Would it just overtake the pots and suffocate your crop?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't really bother but there isn't a problem with perennials. A lot of No Till growers grow stuff like cilantro that stays growing the whole time. They use the herbs.
 
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#187
She peeked her head yesterday but hasn’t popped back out since, hoping she’s a little lost lol. For the first watering I only used about 8 ounces of bubbled water with some aloe because I over watered the hell out of it by accident during watering it in.

For the second watering I sprinkled some mbp very lightly across the soil surface, as well as some fulvic acid and mykos. I mixed in a liquid aloe and used about 2 gallons of water, and slightly over watered (when I say over watered I mean a decent amount of liquid dripped out of the smart pot) with everything I’ve read, I’ve done almost no research on watering so I’m just going by what seems right lol.

I’m more or less following mofo’s watering cycle
 
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#188
Oh also the humidity is getting better, it’s about 53%, I think I’m going to aim for 60ish percent for now

And the soil surface temps are right around 78, I didn’t check the sprouts surface temp because I didn’t know if itwould hurt it so early on lol. I do need to check the tempature in the off hours and make sure it’s doing ok though
 
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#189
Ecompost said:
Aloe you can get from ebay in most cases or local health stores hold it, some better than others, ie full plant extract, if not use Bio Hydrate, this has Aloe among other water regulating and bio stimulating plant extracts and saponins, its ultra potent too, so you are talking drops per gallon not ml or tsp and there is no need to faff about mixing Aloe from powder for example. While on BOX's site you can pick up K+AMINO, this contains high levels of bio activated silicon, SiOH4 (@20,000ppms) as well as abundant Amino forms of N, Ca, Fe, Mg, Mn, Zn, plus Fulvic acid, salicylic acid, B12 Vit A, C and E, Growth Hormones, SOD's and VOCs, it is suited for use from seed to week 3 / day 21 bloom. can be used later to stagger ripening where clones are used and manpower to harvest is low. Contains living wild microbes both growth and health promoting, so has a shorter shelf life than traditional products @12 . Is a super foliar and or soil drench treatment not only for MJ but for a wide range of plant types.
it contains many bio control microbes (soil antibiotic secreting) which can be used to pre treat outdoor beds after winter periods, limiting many common mold pathogens, fusarium, white molds etc ahead of planting, and or re-purpose existing media, restore polluted spaces boosting microbial counts esp NPK and mineral based Bacteria.

not all liquid nutes are created equal, some can be used to consolidate many inputs in to a powerful, low cost, easy, ready to use application, delivered to the door without the wait on reduction, or concern of soil/ media/ environmental conditions. Both products are 100% vegan, highly tested in this space, and contain only wild resonant microbes, not lab variants. Environmental factors are crucial to well functioning raw organics, and there are many cases where applying a salt or liquid, would in fact short cut much of the energy required to mobilize native OM in to plant available forms, without slowing microbial colonization, or breaching organic practice.

its one thing to have functioning soil, quite another to create it from shop brought compost without lots of time

Merry Xmas
Click to expand...

So I finally had time to search through this a little bit but the biggest issue is the cost... for 1 liter it’s $73 dollars, and it would turn into a regularly bought thing. Don’t get me wrong, it sounds great and everything but the fact it has a shorter shelf life also tells me one bottle probably won’t be equal to another?

I haven’t looked into the process of how they bottle and ship either, but when I compare it to someone like coot it just sorta seems overboard. I’m also kinda lost already the last thing I need is to add something else haha.
 
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brazel

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#190
You guys are riding the line between cover crops and companion plants. While both are beneficial they are different. Read Masanobu Fukuoka’s teachings.
dynamic accumulator plants
 
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#191
So I had my head up my ass when I planted my first seedling, and decided a day after it sprouted it was time to feed lmao. Currently have another seed going and if it gets a tap root should be in the soil tomorrow. I really need to read more on actually growing plants lol
 
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Organikz

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#192
FutureGrower said:
So I had my head up my ass when I planted my first seedling, and decided a day after it sprouted it was time to feed lmao. Currently have another seed going and if it gets a tap root should be in the soil tomorrow. I really need to read more on actually growing plants lol
Click to expand...
What did you feed?
 
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#193
Organikz said:
What did you feed?
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Aloe, light fulvic acid top dress and mbp top dress... and over watered the hell out of it all in the process lol
 
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Organikz

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#194
It's easy to overdo it. Seems if you keep adding you get more out. Quite the opposite.
 
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#195
Organikz said:
It's easy to overdo it. Seems if you keep adding you get more out. Quite the opposite.
Click to expand...


Yeah buddy, I knew better upon reflection haha. I’ll get it down in time man, i really have never grown a plant with the exception of adding water,I’m sure there will be a learning curve
 
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brazel

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#196
FutureGrower said:
So I had my head up my ass when I planted my first seedling, and decided a day after it sprouted it was time to feed lmao. Currently have another seed going and if it gets a tap root should be in the soil tomorrow. I really need to read more on actually growing plants lol
Click to expand...
people always wanna grow the plant, but soil is what grows plants. That's why they've been growing without human contact. Study what plants need and build a soil.
What plants know, teaming with microbes, teaming with nutrients, teaming with fungi are some amazing books to start with.

My two cents
 
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FutureGrower

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#197
brazel said:
people always wanna grow the plant, but soil is what grows plants. That's why they've been growing without human contact. Study what plants need and build a soil.
What plants know, teaming with microbes, teaming with nutrients, teaming with fungi are some amazing books to start with.

My two cents
Click to expand...

What plants know is super cool. I really do want to get to teaming with microbes and fungi but I heard teaming with nutrients is super hard to understand lol.

Good tip on build a soil and what plants need thanks buddy!
 
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#198
FutureGrower said:
She peeked her head yesterday but hasn’t popped back out since, hoping she’s a little lost lol. For the first watering I only used about 8 ounces of bubbled water with some aloe because I over watered the hell out of it by accident during watering it in.

For the second watering I sprinkled some mbp very lightly across the soil surface, as well as some fulvic acid and mykos. I mixed in a liquid aloe and used about 2 gallons of water, and slightly over watered (when I say over watered I mean a decent amount of liquid dripped out of the smart pot) with everything I’ve read, I’ve done almost no research on watering so I’m just going by what seems right lol.

I’m more or less following mofo’s watering cycle
Click to expand...
weigh it dry, wet it totally, weigh it, see how long it takes to lose 70% of its weight, use this as your dry marker, after a while you will be able to tell simply by lifting the pot, but you might also use your finger, pop it in to the soil to the knuckle, if it comes out covered in soil its wet, if it comes out clean its dry, water it when your finger or soil probe is clean :-) In order to keep microbes happy, you must aim to maintain a base moisture level approx 30-40% min to avoid the microbes stalling.
 
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FutureGrower

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#199
Also right or wrong I just appreciate t
Ecompost said:
weigh it dry, wet it totally, weigh it, see how long it takes to lose 70% of its weight, use this as your dry marker, after a while you will be able to tell simply by lifting the pot, but you might also use your finger, pop it in to the soil to the knuckle, if it comes out covered in soil its wet, if it comes out clean its dry, water it when your finger or soil probe is clean :) In order to keep microbes happy, you must aim to maintain a base moisture level approx 30-40% min to avoid the microbes stalling.
Click to expand...

The finger trick is great! But 25 gallons in a awkward corner is super awkward to pickup lol.

Also great to know about the moisture level for microbes thanks man!
 
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brazel

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#200
FutureGrower said:
What plants know is super cool. I really do want to get to teaming with microbes and fungi but I heard teaming with nutrients is super hard to understand lol.

Good tip on build a soil and what plants need thanks buddy!
Click to expand...
It's not hard to understand, it wakes up with that awe factor!
 
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