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First Grow ~ 4x4 1000w MH/HPS

  • Thread starter Thread starter RogueWiz
  • Start date Start date Apr 10, 2020
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First Grow ~ 4x4 1000w MH/HPS

RogueWiz Apr 10, 2020 132 Replies 13,889 Views
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RogueWiz

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Apr 10, 2020
#1
4-10-20

Growing out of PDX, OREGON!
1ft tall Clones Garanimals (2) Sundae Driver (1)
Transplant from cube from dealer to 5G grow bags. Plants appear healthy, exception to Sundae Driver has a light burnt tip look to it but I'll bring it back..maybe.. lol.

Soil Forest Farms OF mix w/ Perlite, a dash of compost, and Mycos in the soil and sprinkled on the cube and nest.
Heavy Watering w/ Fish & Seaweed, Kelp, Calmag lightly 300ppm. 6.2PH

Started light cycle 2-8PM being 6 HRS of Night to keep temps tolerable on hot day.

Added Dehumidifier after low 35% moved to 52%
Running Temps HI of 80° @2PM Low of 71° @8PM.

1000W Hortilux MH Bulb, Sun System Hood w/ adjustable ballast. 440cfm variable speed fan cooling just light from atmosphere. Both hooked to light timer. 440cfm Fan w/ Carbon filter outside of tent pulling air.
240cfm fan for intake. Humidifier next to intake. Fan in corner oscillating against tent causing light movement to plants. Temp/Humidity meter connected to WIFI that also graphs info in other corner with WIFI connected security camera (for checkups when I'm not home).

LMK what you think, things to change or add! I'll get some updated photos of everything soon!
 

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Last edited: Apr 10, 2020
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10w30

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#2
killer setup, sounds like you got this down. good luck and happy growing. ive got 2x315cmh in a 4x4 now.
 
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visajoe1

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#3
nice setup, you have the tools to pull some weight here, so lets goooo! I'm running same setup. only thing i'd like to offer as advice is refer you to VPD. you went the wrong way with your humidity, you want it at least 65% if you're running at 80F lights on. laser thermometer is most accurate way to calculate, each strain is usually different.

also, dont water your girls until pots are dry.

welcome to the farm!
 
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goingtoguano

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#4
Pulling up a chair, I grow with a 1000w in a 4x4 too.
 
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RogueWiz

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#5
UPDATE:
Ladys looking very healthy this morning , recovering nicely from the drive home and transplant. I was a little concerned with overdoing the initial Nutes but they're handling it great; only watered with water thereafter lightly before bed. Plan on hitting it with some compost tea at 8PM that I brewed 30 or so hrs as long as the soils dry enough, if dry sooner then I'll hit it sooner or vice versa (Tea is looking to be 6.9PH at 300TDS , figured I'd leave it alone as the bacteria multiplys closer to 7 as I'm told). I think they're in time to be topped , how long do you suggest I wait after the transplant? I was thinking 2 days if they looked healthy? LMK!

Also, I'm a water guy by profession so if you guys have some R/O questions I might be able to help there.
 

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visajoe1

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#6
goingtoguano said:
Pulling up a chair, I grow with a 1000w in a 4x4 too.
Click to expand...
we should start a Team 4x4 1000w thread lol. I just flipped 2 weeks ago, getting to the best part
 
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JadedMarxist

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#7
Hi rogue I'm using a 1000w Ina 3x3 it's Wat yo hot so nkw I'm running 400w but will proabaly end up running 600w. Nice set indeed.

Sorr this is not advice, your in the water filtration buisness? I have a question maybe you could answer with some experience or even documents.

My question is what water filter takes the most sediment out of the water? I mean like how would a Britta tap filter compare to a Britta pitcher filter compared to zero pitcher filter using a Ro under sink system as a control.

Now I understand I should just get a Ro system installed but the initial cost is a bit high for what I think a quality system costs and am not sure if some of the cheaper systems are efficient.

I been looki g a Brita and zeros website but there info is obviously very vague and twisted to try to convince an uneducated consumer into spending there cash on there product. The zero pi tchers claim to after filtration have a ppm of 0.

SD of now I'm buying Ro from a local water company and the Ro has been between 8-10ppm.

I have connections with in the filtration industry so I can get most anything I would need to get as I work in the water conservation industry but, as always I have to question the advise of a professional when they stand to bemifit from my purchase.

Hope that all makes sense.

Are Britta and zero all hype or useless or do they only take out chlorine and heavy metals?

My city water from tap has a ppm of 750
 
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RogueWiz

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#8
Okay, so the Brita and Zoros filters are basically just carbon cartridges , takes care of taste odor smell, chlorine removal and even a little iron. They dont really filter that much though particulate wise , more so filters out the chlorine. It traditionally needs recharged with something (oxygen) to clean the carbon (which these dont) . I would suggest an under the sink r/o, no not a culligan or pelican or big name water product , shoot for the cheaper ones which actually are more heavy duty and also get one with traditional cartridges not the easy off brand contingent kind. Big boys just print the name on the cheap product that's mass made . In future replace membranes with AXEON membranes online which are the best and you can pick up the cartridges from any hardware store . Talk with a water treatment guy at a well pump store. (not culligan)

Here's a quick lookup that I'm imagining

canature under sink r/o - Google Shopping

www.google.com
 
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RogueWiz

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#9
My water city TDS is 40 LOL I just let the chlorine gas off. I replied its pending mod approval.
 
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JadedMarxist

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#10
Cool thanks I'll look into that. I was just unsure how much of what is taken out by some Ro systems as I've seen some go for 300$ others are charging 600$.

Sorry for takeing the post off topic
 
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RogueWiz

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#11
No worries hmu anytime! Dont waste money
 
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RogueWiz

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#12
4-11-20

Ladys looking very healthy this morning , recovering nicely from the drive home and transplant. I was a little concerned with overdoing the initial Nutes but they're handling it great; only watered with water thereafter lightly before bed. Plan on hitting it with some compost tea at 8PM that I brewed 30 or so hrs as long as the soils dry enough, if dry sooner then I'll hit it sooner or vice versa (Tea is looking to be 6.9PH at 300TDS , figured I'd leave it alone as the bacteria multiplys closer to 7 as I'm told). I think they're in time to be topped , how long do you suggest I wait after the transplant? I was thinking 2 days if they looked healthy?

Also, I'm a water guy by profession so if you guys have some R/O questions I might be able to help there.

8PM
Air temps and humidity are becoming pretty constant as you can see on my graph here 60s humidity 69° lights off.
Watered plants with 30hr Compost Tea 6.7PH 420TDS , going to let the pots now dry out a bit before the next water . Topped them as they appeared very healthy , probably should have given another day but i was already late on these plants so let's see how they recover!

PS:
Used Snowboard Goggle bag for my compost holder kachow.
 

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PipeCarver

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#13
RogueWiz said:
4-11-20

Ladys looking very healthy this morning , recovering nicely from the drive home and transplant. I was a little concerned with overdoing the initial Nutes but they're handling it great; only watered with water thereafter lightly before bed. Plan on hitting it with some compost tea at 8PM that I brewed 30 or so hrs as long as the soils dry enough, if dry sooner then I'll hit it sooner or vice versa (Tea is looking to be 6.9PH at 300TDS , figured I'd leave it alone as the bacteria multiplys closer to 7 as I'm told). I think they're in time to be topped , how long do you suggest I wait after the transplant? I was thinking 2 days if they looked healthy?

Also, I'm a water guy by profession so if you guys have some R/O questions I might be able to help there.

8PM
Air temps and humidity are becoming pretty constant as you can see on my graph here 60s humidity 69° lights off.
Watered plants with 30hr Compost Tea 6.7PH 420TDS , going to let the pots now dry out a bit before the next water . Topped them as they appeared very healthy , probably should have given another day but i was already late on these plants so let's see how they recover!

PS:
Used Snowboard Goggle bag for my compost holder kachow.View attachment 960375View attachment 960376View attachment 960377
Click to expand...
I use a 1000w hps and I keep my plants much closer to the light. It looks like your plants are thin and stretched out reaching for the light. They look healthy and pretty but I have mine within 18" - 20" even in veg and mine don't stretch out as much. I was led to believe if my hand can take the heat so can the plants.
I now veg under t5&t8 lights when the 1000w is off but move them back in ( those I have room for) under the 1000 through the day. They seem to like that.
 
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RogueWiz

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#14
PipeCarver said:
I use a 1000w hps and I keep my plants much closer to the light. It looks like your plants are thin and stretched out reaching for the light. They look healthy and pretty but I have mine within 18" - 20" even in veg and mine don't stretch out as much. I was led to believe if my hand can take the heat so can the plants.
I now veg under t5&t8 lights when the 1000w is off but move them back in ( those I have room for) under the 1000 through the day. They seem to like that.
Click to expand...

I picked them up this way just yesterday , In the state they were in and i knew i was going to be stressing them quick by the size they were out of the gate so i pulled the light back , plan on dropping once they recover the topping and green out then will proceed LST
 
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RogueWiz

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#15
Also I took the cheap light meter I had and swept it across the base and all around the plants is 1100+ watts! This bulb rocks.
 
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RogueWiz

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#16
Grow Tent finally in a pretty good spot without making changes , going to try and leave it alone and let the plants do they're thing.
 

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#17
RogueWiz said:
Grow Tent finally in a pretty good spot without making changes , going to try and leave it alone and let the plants do they're thing.
Click to expand...
that app is fucking sick, how the hell can I do that?
 
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RogueWiz

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#18
4-12-20

Ladies recovering well again from the topping yesterday. I think hitting it with the compost tea when topping was a good idea, going to do that on further grows! I went ahead and threw a few wires on the pots and held down lightly some taller branches as I anticipate a lot of growth through the week and LST. Going to try out the SCROG method and make these babies huge.

Here's some more photos of my current setup, have a little more tweaking to do as things show up.

Running the FF Trio Nute line, as I saw a lot of good results and it's also an easy way to get started in my case. Found on Ebay for 28$

No water this morning as I want more root development, showing fine on my moisture meter anyways. PH was running close to 7 in the soil this morning so I'm going to hit my next water way low on the PH.

Yes that's 2 Blueberry Pints holding up my Ballast , figured air underneath would help keep it cool and it is .

-Rogue
 

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NairnM16

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#19
I would top or low stress train try bush them out then scrog about 1.5ft off the top of the pot then another 1 foot above that
 
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Looks like you've got a good start on things. If I can offer a couple tips, avoid feeding any added nutrients to that soil for at least a month from planting. And If I were you Id elevate those plants somehow to collect runoff. There will likely come a time when they are large and awkward to move and you'll want to rinse them. Its easier if you can do it in place.

MiMeds perpetual thread is an awesome resource for folks growing in FFOF... FYI.
 
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Replies 132
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Started Apr 10, 2020
Latest post Aug 3, 2020
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