First time cloning and first experience with rockwool HELP?

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sweetolmaryjane

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Hello, i have two bushed out beautiful mother plants that i am going to attempt to clone. It is my first time cloning, and my first time using rockwool. I have a rectangle box with plastic lid and just enough rockwool to fit in the box. I have rooting powder as well and a razor blade. What exactly am i supposed to do? I have never seen rockwool before am i supposed to boil water and bring it to room temperature and soak the rock wool for an hour the use it...PLEASE HELP lol
thank you
josh
 
Chobble

Chobble

789
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I dont use Rock Wool, Dont like the stuff so I cant help you there. I recommend Jiffy plugs, I think they work much better and they're more eco friendly, I still find pieces of rock wool in my garden two years later..

What I always do is take a branch and measure 3-4 inches, 3 being the utmost minimum for clones(Make sure to get a ruler, because your estimate is always a bit off). Then as you come in to take you want to make a 45 degree angle cut much like when pruning a fruit tree. Then you want to make sure to not flip the cutting over, as you can allow air to enter the stomata and create an air embalism, So just hold the cutting straight up and down and put it into a cup of water, I always add a few tablespoons of B1 to the cup. Then repeat until you have your cuttings done.

Now what you want to do is start dipping them in the Rooting Powder. Then make sure to put them straight into the rockwool cubes. Make sure to spray the cuttings at least 3 times a day for the first week of there life then slowly reduce that as it roots.

I spray all my clones with a B1 foliar spray to help them root, and stunt top growth by clogging up the pores with B1 ;) This makes the plant focus on rooting. Its a really good tip that does help.

Anymore Questions or things I didnt cover enough?

Chobble

P.S. I see you posted a similiar topic privy to this one. I know your knew around here, but if your question doesnt get an answer in a few hours dont sweat it. Smoke a doobie and browse around, Hopefully someone can answer your question.
 
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sweetolmaryjane

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thank you very much for you advice. I tried jiffy pucks last time and not one clone nor did one seedling survive...i was told rockwool has a higher sucess rate so i bought some. You say to go 3 inches up...from the stock right?, and i dont have any b1 can i continue without it
 
dextr0

dextr0

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One thing I do do is throw the RW into some distilled water with some apple cider vinegar mixed in. 1tsp ACV to each gallon. Let soak for 24 hrs....supposed to help with ph.

After that like dude above said I like to have three four nodes on top and try to make my cut right on a node (i feel this roots better).

As soon as I cut cutting from plant it goes strait into a bowl of water. Then I make my 45 degree and strait into some rooting gel, powder whatever then strait into RW. Its very important not to let air get into stem.

After that I keep the RW moist for about 10 days. I like to leave my hood off as much as possible with out letting everything dry up. If i see that the plants arnt liking no humidity I go ahead and leave the hood on for awhile (maybe a 12 hrs) then take off again. 7-10 days you should have roots.
 
Chobble

Chobble

789
93
thank you very much for you advice. I tried jiffy pucks last time and not one clone nor did one seedling survive...i was told rockwool has a higher sucess rate so i bought some. You say to go 3 inches up...from the stock right?, and i dont have any b1 can i continue without it

3 inches down from the top minimum. So Measure from the top of the branch down.

Also something really important!

You want to keep 1-2 fan leaves on there and trim the tips off of the leaves, you've probably seen it done before on clones. What that does is allow for moisture to be exchanged more evenly. At that point though you really really really need to keep your RH high.

Those fan leaves will feed the plant through the next two weeks. Also if you wernt succesful with jiffy plugs rockwool probably wont be much easier on you. Something really important to do is make sure they're warm. The roots wont grow unless they're 70+ degree's. My humidity dome just warms up under my lights but you may need a heating pad.

Also No B1 is needed, Just a nice recommendation. Its super cheap to 4$ for a one gallon jug. You want to give it to your plants when you transplant etc. Its the cheapest thing around to promote root growth and reduce stress during transplanting.

Chobble

If I go in my room to take some pictures for my Dairy, Ill show you roughly what I do.
 
Unit541

Unit541

234
63
I clone in rockwool, and don't have any problems whatsoever.

I don't have any hard and fast "rules" I follow or anything, just keep it simple. I don't use any magic potions or hormones. Here's my procedure, and since you're new to rockwool, I'll start with it's preparation (which is vital, and where a lot of mistakes are made).

I begin by soaking my 1.5" cubes in the following solution for at least 12 hours:
- 1 gal tap water (70-100 ppm)
- 1 ml DynaBLOOM (3-12-6)
- PH to 4.8 - 5.0

Usually twice a month, city water gets treated and comes out of the tap at 150-200 ppm. When this happens I use R/O instead, and add 100 ppm Cal-Mag.

Once the cubes have soaked for at least 12 hours, I pour off the solution and desaturate the cubes. It is important not to squeeze the cubes even a little. RW crushes easily, and every squeeze collapses vital air pockets. To remove excess moisture, cup the cube in your fingers, and "fling" it. The same gravity that keeps it planted against your fingers forces excess moisture out without damaging the cubes internal structure. Do this until they no longer drip.

Now the cuttings. I think people get too wrapped up in how many nodes to leave, minimum and maximum sizes, special angles to cut with surgical scalpels, magic cloning potions, etc... I ignore 100% of that. I simple look at the plant, and visualize it's growing limbs as new plants growing out of RW cubes. I usually have something in mind for how I want my future plants structure to be, and use that to guide my selection. When I find a limb that suits my preference at the time, I grab my trimming shears and snip it off the plant at it's base. If the first node isn't at least 2" or so from the cut, I snip those leaves off.

Using a blade of my shears, I scrape off the outer layer around the bottom 3/4" or so of the stem. Just a few random scrapes is all, I don't get it all, usually just 3 or 4 swipes to remove a few strips. Now I place these cuttings in my prepared cubes by dropping them in the holes in the cubes until they bottom out, then forcing them another 1/4" to 1/2" to firmly seat them in the cubes.

Finally, I mist the interior of a humidity dome and the new cuttings themselves. Cover with the dome, vents all the way closed. In the winter I put them on a heat mat to maintain sufficient temps. For 5 days I keep all vents closed, and under a T-8 shop light (T-5 are a bit too much for unrooted cuttings). I remove the dome once per day to mist the cuttings and exchange air. RH is 100% and temps around 85 F for this period. After the first 5 days, I begin to open the vents on the dome, a little more each day, slowly acclimating them to the RH in my veg area, which ranges from 70%-85%. Usually by day 10 - 12, they're rooted and ready for more light and a decent meal.

Cannabis is a resilient plant. Don't mess with it too much, and it'll do it's thing. Don't open that dome more than once per day for the first week, and don't mist with tap water. It's not going to kill the cutting, but the deposits on the leaves will interfere with it's ability to breathe and slow rooting considerably (week or more in my experience).

I grow in hydro, and continue to feed new clones bloom nutes for a week into veg. Inevitably, the cloning process results in purpling of stems and yellowing of leaves. Bloom addresses the immediate needs of newly rooted cuttings much more directly than a veg line at this time. Specifically, Dyna is one of the cheapest and simplest to use, despite being almost annoyingly effective.

Good luck!
 
Chobble

Chobble

789
93
I clone in rockwool, and don't have any problems whatsoever.

I don't have any hard and fast "rules" I follow or anything, just keep it simple. I don't use any magic potions or hormones. Here's my procedure, and since you're new to rockwool, I'll start with it's preparation (which is vital, and where a lot of mistakes are made).

I begin by soaking my 1.5" cubes in the following solution for at least 12 hours:
- 1 gal tap water (70-100 ppm)
- 1 ml DynaBLOOM (3-12-6)
- PH to 4.8 - 5.0

Usually twice a month, city water gets treated and comes out of the tap at 150-200 ppm. When this happens I use R/O instead, and add 100 ppm Cal-Mag.

Once the cubes have soaked for at least 12 hours, I pour off the solution and desaturate the cubes. It is important not to squeeze the cubes even a little. RW crushes easily, and every squeeze collapses vital air pockets. To remove excess moisture, cup the cube in your fingers, and "fling" it. The same gravity that keeps it planted against your fingers forces excess moisture out without damaging the cubes internal structure. Do this until they no longer drip.

Now the cuttings. I think people get too wrapped up in how many nodes to leave, minimum and maximum sizes, special angles to cut with surgical scalpels, magic cloning potions, etc... I ignore 100% of that. I simple look at the plant, and visualize it's growing limbs as new plants growing out of RW cubes. I usually have something in mind for how I want my future plants structure to be, and use that to guide my selection. When I find a limb that suits my preference at the time, I grab my trimming shears and snip it off the plant at it's base. If the first node isn't at least 2" or so from the cut, I snip those leaves off.

Using a blade of my shears, I scrape off the outer layer around the bottom 3/4" or so of the stem. Just a few random scrapes is all, I don't get it all, usually just 3 or 4 swipes to remove a few strips. Now I place these cuttings in my prepared cubes by dropping them in the holes in the cubes until they bottom out, then forcing them another 1/4" to 1/2" to firmly seat them in the cubes.

Finally, I mist the interior of a humidity dome and the new cuttings themselves. Cover with the dome, vents all the way closed. In the winter I put them on a heat mat to maintain sufficient temps. For 5 days I keep all vents closed, and under a T-8 shop light (T-5 are a bit too much for unrooted cuttings). I remove the dome once per day to mist the cuttings and exchange air. RH is 100% and temps around 85 F for this period. After the first 5 days, I begin to open the vents on the dome, a little more each day, slowly acclimating them to the RH in my veg area, which ranges from 70%-85%. Usually by day 10 - 12, they're rooted and ready for more light and a decent meal.

Cannabis is a resilient plant. Don't mess with it too much, and it'll do it's thing. Don't open that dome more than once per day for the first week, and don't mist with tap water. It's not going to kill the cutting, but the deposits on the leaves will interfere with it's ability to breathe and slow rooting considerably (week or more in my experience).

I grow in hydro, and continue to feed new clones bloom nutes for a week into veg. Inevitably, the cloning process results in purpling of stems and yellowing of leaves. Bloom addresses the immediate needs of newly rooted cuttings much more directly than a veg line at this time. Specifically, Dyna is one of the cheapest and simplest to use, despite being almost annoyingly effective.

Good luck!

Bloom nutes = Cheap root nutes :p I like it.

Also dont use shears, Using a razorblade is much better. I get about 60% success rate and about 99% when I use a razorblade.

In the end all that matters is you made the 45 degree angle and gave it somewhere to root. Thats all it needs.
Chobble
 
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sweetolmaryjane

114
28
distilled water or ph balanced water is boiled water right?
 
dextr0

dextr0

1,664
163
spin_prod_535740501

...No heating needed.
 
Unit541

Unit541

234
63
Also dont use shears, Using a razorblade is much better. I get about 60% success rate and about 99% when I use a razorblade.

In the end all that matters is you made the 45 degree angle and gave it somewhere to root. Thats all it needs.
Chobble

I don't remember the last time I had a cutting fail to root. I use garden shears exclusively. If they caused 40% of my cuttings to fail, I certainly wouldn't, but I've had 100% cloning success year after year, after year.

Sometimes the cut ends up at a 45 degree angle, if I had to in order to snip the stem. Most however, are not at any particular angle, and they all end up with the same roots, in the same 10-12 days. Just one less thing to bother with in my opinion.

While on some level, there are likely legitimate procedures that provide benefit in one way or another. However I have found that the complications to the process introduced by these additional procedures often does more harm than good for the novice or hobbyist grower. Who knows, maybe the 45 degree angle results in the ability to transplant a day earlier when averaged across 500 clones. Is that relevant to me in my basement? Not in the least. Soak, snip, plant, mist, dome, forget. Works every time.
 
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sweetolmaryjane

114
28
can i soak it in boiled water that is at room temperature, and how long do i ACTUALLY need to soak it for...some people say 24 hours some say an hour some say 5 mins?
 
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sweetolmaryjane

114
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and is there ANY need to add miracle grow to the water or plant food???
 
B

budseyeveiw

257
18
tbh the person comes on asking for advice on rockwool and you try to convince him to use jiffys.
i clone alot ive done rockwool side by jiffys and tbh jiffys are always slower and in my opinion to much of a pain, plus they are messy. alot of people use them but tbh there in no way better than rockwool. i guess equally effective if you use them alot but for me definately jiffys are slower.
the main problem with rockwool is keeping it wet but not too wet, i do this..

use a bloom nutrient (not essential) at a ml per liter.( the high nitrogen is ment to slow down the root growth and a bloom nute will do the oppisite)
use clonex to dip clones in, ive tried powder hormone but liquid or gel is better absorbed.
ph the water, soak the rockwool check it in a few hours and adjust the ph if it changes,
then when you dip the clones give the rockwool a gentle squeeze to make sure its not to wet,put the clone in, mist spray so they dont do the mexican wave and dome them up. i get roots in 7 to 10 days if it all goes smoothly.
thats my take on rockwool . hope it helps.
 
B

budseyeveiw

257
18
I don't remember the last time I had a cutting fail to root. I use garden shears exclusively. If they caused 40% of my cuttings to fail, I certainly wouldn't, but I've had 100% cloning success year after year, after year.

Sometimes the cut ends up at a 45 degree angle, if I had to in order to snip the stem. Most however, are not at any particular angle, and they all end up with the same roots, in the same 10-12 days. Just one less thing to bother with in my opinion.

While on some level, there are likely legitimate procedures that provide benefit in one way or another. However I have found that the complications to the process introduced by these additional procedures often does more harm than good for the novice or hobbyist grower. Who knows, maybe the 45 degree angle results in the ability to transplant a day earlier when averaged across 500 clones. Is that relevant to me in my basement? Not in the least. Soak, snip, plant, mist, dome, forget. Works every time.
yup agreed some people think you cant grow weed if you dont cut it at the right degree angle lol, tbh makes no difference really.
 
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