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First time grow ! Rust colored spots !

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First time grow ! Rust colored spots !

Hayin_ 72 Replies 9,437 Views
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Okay thank you sorry for so many questions just scared that I will ruin the plant if I do something wrong or just let it be and it infects the whole plant.. just worried sorry ! Thanks so much for the help
Don't even sweat it. Plants recover well. Those spots aren't a concern. Brown decaying tips are. Things like that. Once they get going they grow very very fast.
 
Don't even sweat it. Plants recover well. Those spots aren't a concern. Brown decaying tips are. Things like that. Once they get going they grow very very fast.
Okay thank you so much
 
She has grown so much I did decide to cut those first set of leaves off and she started to grow more and back quickly but now I’m noticing these same orange spots popping up even on the new leaves so stressful but yet she’s still growing I’m super confused. Even massive roots coming in . So I’m not sure what’s causing this but it’s annoying but my girl is 21 days today
 

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Few things prolly need lined out. I can tell your overfeeding it due to the red stems. It could potentially cause this issue, yet your root structure in one of those picks looked unique.

Few things. Do your ppms increase or decrease. What nutrients are you using and what ratios. Do you start with tap or ro. Are the underside of those stems red or is it just the top.

To lower your ppms all you do is add distilled/ro water to your res.. Then adjust ph. Ph should be 5.6 and slowly climbing. If it starts dropping.. Your need to add more nutrients or dump.

If you want to be successful you need to buy a ppm meter that can be calibrated, and a ph meter that can be calibrated and tested. I have ph and ppm calibration solutions to test my meters with. If I notice something different, I test my meters first to make sure they are accurate before adjusting.
 
Few things prolly need lined out. I can tell your overfeeding it due to the red stems. It could potentially cause this issue, yet your root structure in one of those picks looked unique.

Few things. Do your ppms increase or decrease. What nutrients are you using and what ratios. Do you start with tap or ro. Are the underside of those stems red or is it just the top.

To lower your ppms all you do is add distilled/ro water to your res.. Then adjust ph. Ph should be 5.6 and slowly climbing. If it starts dropping.. Your need to add more nutrients or dump.

If you want to be successful you need to buy a ppm meter that can be calibrated, and a ph meter that can be calibrated and tested. I have ph and ppm calibration solutions to test my meters with. If I notice something different, I test my meters first to make sure they are accurate before adjusting.
I used distilled water .
I do have a ppm reader and ph meter and I test her every few days she starts at 6.3 and she only climbed to 6.5. I don’t know how to not over feed her I only feed her once a week ( like today is feeding day where I dump out the water clean the inside out and add new water and nutrients). I use the general hydroponic flora series. And she’s just purple right there, because underneath everything is green
 

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Your water might lack buffering. And your PH is swinging. And your nutrients are locked out. Distilled water is for radiators.
 
Your water might lack buffering. And your PH is swinging. And your nutrients are locked out. Distilled water is for radiators.
I was told to use distilled water so which water should I use spring ? Or purified? Or? How am I supposed to buffer the water ? I thought the buffering powder was only used to calibrate the meters I didn’t know it should be added to my feeding water as well. And you think because I have a lock out that’s why the spots are appearing ? Should I flush her out? Just water this feeding for a few days and then slowly introduce nutrients?
 
I was told to use distilled water so which water should I use spring ? Or purified? Or? How am I supposed to buffer the water ? I thought the buffering powder was only used to calibrate the meters I didn’t know it should be added to my feeding water as well. And you think because I have a lock out that’s why the spots are appearing ? Should I flush her out? Just water this feeding for a few days and then slowly introduce nutrients?
I use tap water because it's got decent hardness already. And the right amount of calcium. You don't use calibration solution. Buffering distilled water is a whole ass scientific process.
 
I use tap water because it's got decent hardness already. And the right amount of calcium. You don't use calibration solution. Buffering distilled water is a whole ass scientific process.
Do you have to let the water sit for 24hours? Because that’s why i didn’t go with tap water because it’s not feasible for me & I seen one guy do it and he said he lets It sit for 24 hours. And yeah it seems like it, this whole process has been very very very stressful
 
Lol I would start with ro, then once you can run it successfully then try using your tap water and eliminating calmag. I should prolly be using tap lol... But idk. . Shit scares me
 
Do you have to let the water sit for 24hours? Because that’s why i didn’t go with tap water because it’s not feasible for me & I seen one guy do it and he said he lets It sit for 24 hours. And yeah it seems like it, this whole process has been very very very stressful
No. Straight from the tap. One part. No issues.
 
M
No. Straight from the tap. One part. No issues.Okay should I just flush her for feeding today ? Give her just tap water and then slowly introduce nutrients back through the week? Or just give her two and nutrients today. My only concern is maybe the nutrient lockout so maybe she needs to be force to absorb those nutrients she’s locking out
 
Give her just tap water and then slowly introduce nutrients back through the week? Or just give her two and nutrients today. My only concern is maybe the nutrient lockout so maybe she needs to be force to absorb those nutrients she’s locking out..
This Is what I was trying to say but some how it’s something different
 
No. Straight from the tap. One part. No issues.
So in live systems the chlorine will destroy your bbs. You can add chlorinated water to sterile systems without fears of destroying colonies, because they are already destroyed. If he is running live, which I have no idea if he is, he should for sure let it sit out for 24hrs, or whatever that time frame is.

I narrowed the root cause for my rampid pythium growth to me adding clorinated water, then adding hydroguard, it basically killed them as soon as I put them in there. So if hes running high temps, i would not reccommend it, but yea if hes using peroxide and chillers sure why not add it strait to the pot. I think all that sounds correct lol. .im pretty baked
 
To the OP, this seems like a simple calmag issue, your for sure not overfeeding, and your roots dont have root rot. For now, use equal ratios of calmag and flora trio. For veg a simple formula that you cant mess up is to use .5ml of each in this order. . . .Calmag, Micro, grow, bloom. Keep it simple until you have no issues. Just think of it still in the seedling stage, no reason to feed it the aggressive growth blend yet, i mean you can, but it will just exacerbate your issue, which as ponky said, isnt that big of a deal. Your doing almost everything right, almost there.
 
Give her just tap water and then slowly introduce nutrients back through the week? Or just give her two and nutrients today. My only concern is maybe the nutrient lockout so maybe she needs to be force to absorb those nutrients she’s locking out..
This Is what I was trying to say but some how it’s something different
I just mix up the feed I'm gunna use in a fresh bucket whenever there's a problem. I feed until the end. If something goes wrong I do a water change. Last few days. Just water PH adjusted from the tap.
 
So in live systems the chlorine will destroy your bbs. You can add chlorinated water to sterile systems without fears of destroying colonies, because they are already destroyed. If he is running live, which I have no idea if he is, he should for sure let it sit out for 24hrs, or whatever that time frame is.

I narrowed the root cause for my rampid pythium growth to me adding clorinated water, then adding hydroguard, it basically killed them as soon as I put them in there. So if hes running high temps, i would not reccommend it, but yea if hes using peroxide and chillers sure why not add it strait to the pot. I think all that sounds correct lol. .im pretty baked
Sorry forgot to mention. Peroxide environment. Well controlled temp. No sterile. And the source water is decent.
 
Sorry forgot to mention. Peroxide environment. Well controlled temp. No sterile. And the source water is decent.
So in live systems the chlorine will destroy your bbs. You can add chlorinated water to sterile systems without fears of destroying colonies, because they are already destroyed. If he is running live, which I have no idea if he is, he should for sure let it sit out for 24hrs, or whatever that time frame is.

I narrowed the root cause for my rampid pythium growth to me adding clorinated water, then adding hydroguard, it basically killed them as soon as I put them in there. So if hes running high temps, i would not reccommend it, but yea if hes using peroxide and chillers sure why not add it strait to the pot. I think all that sounds correct lol. .im pretty baked
I’m gone myself and I’ve read This 4 times and still I feel lost
 
Sorry forgot to mention. Peroxide environment. Well controlled temp. No sterile. And the source water is decent.
So add peroxide to my tap water? I’m so sorry I’m confused
 
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