First UC grow! could use some help

[tipper619sd]

IBA? im lost also

 

[Camnibus]

Indole-3-butyric acid, found in Bontone rooting powder.

 

[desertsquirrel]

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/rooting-with-iba.39138/

 

[tipper619sd]

Indole-3-butyric acid, found in Bontone rooting powder.

thanks for that

 

[Coloradofrost]

So things have been moving along nicely, until this morning woke up and noticed that all of the new growth was curling and mutated. But there is more, under further inspection I've noticed there is little black bugs in my roots and don't know what they are. Most likely root aphids but not sure, they look almost like ticks. I tried to get a picture of the bugs but my camera isn't good enough to focus on them.

So first off what do you guys think is up with the twisting and curling of the new growth? And if they are root aphids what do I need to get to get rid of these bastards?

 

[Coloradofrost]

The plants seem to only be getting worse and could really use some experienced input.

Please read my previous post ^^^^^^^

 

[tipper619sd]

well for the aphids i use the bauyer tree and shrub from HD and how high is your water level in the buckets

 

[tipper619sd]

one thing the bauyer will kill them but set your plants back a few weeks to fully recover

 

[Coloradofrost]

well for the aphids i use the bauyer tree and shrub from HD and how high is your water level in the buckets

Do you use the bayer advanced tree and shrub? Or the bayer advanced 3 in 1? and at what dosage and for how long?

I picked up the 3 in 1 cause the tree and shrub said 12 month protection and that scared me away.

 

[tipper619sd]

I have used the tree and shrub and in a week i had new roots and my plants bouncing back to full harvest. I usually buy the one that hooks up to the hose and let it pre mix itself then dunk the roots in a bucket or the T&S and watch them all die quick.

 

[woodsmaneh]

So things have been moving along nicely, until this morning woke up and noticed that all of the new growth was curling and mutated. But there is more, under further inspection I've noticed there is little black bugs in my roots and don't know what they are. Most likely root aphids but not sure, they look almost like ticks. I tried to get a picture of the bugs but my camera isn't good enough to focus on them.

So first off what do you guys think is up with the twisting and curling of the new growth? And if they are root aphids what do I need to get to get rid of these bastards?

Too close to the light or to much N.

Applying pesticide
Usually, chemical pesticides are absorbed by the leaves and transported to the tips of the leaves, the place where aphids prefer to be.
However, due to leaf deformation in infested leaves, insecticides cannot always come into contact with all the aphids because the leaves form a barrier.
To provide continuous protection, the pesticide should also be long-lasting. Systemic pesticides (chemicals that are absorbed into the system of a plant) circulate through the vascular system of the plant.
These pesticides tend to leave beneficial fauna - which do not feed on sap - unaffected.
Biological control
Biological control methods have been used successfully against parasitoids (organisms that, unlike parasites, kill their hosts in the end) and insect-eating predators and entomopathogenic fungi (fungi that can kill or seriously disable insects).
The predators of aphids include ladybird beetles (or ladybugs) and lacewings. Green lacewing larvae (Chrysoperla sp.) are voracious predators of aphids.
There are several cultivation techniques that we can use to prevent or minimize an attack of aphids. These include:

• eliminating weeds that can serve as a reservoir of eggs and adults
• using insect nets (sometimes insecticide-impregnated) to cover crops
• avoiding the excessive use of nitrogenous fertilizer
• removing crop residues
• establishing plant species that can serve as a reservoir for predators (banker plants)

How to combat winged aphids
Winged aphids are specially dangerous for your crops, as they destroy plants much faster than regular aphids. To know when winged aphids are flying over your crops, you can use sticky yellow traps in the air and place water traps on the ground. The water traps consist of a yellow plate containing two fingers of soapy water. In addition to monitoring insect numbers, they can keep a large proportion of aphids from ever reaching our crop.
Barrier crops can also be used. This method involves using plants that are not susceptible to viruses transmitted by aphids to protect the primary crop from these vectors. Its mode of action is twofold: First it forms a physical barrier, preventing the winged aphids from reaching the primary crop. Second it cleans the non-persistent virus, which carries the aphid.
When the aphid reaches the barrier plant and tests its sap, many viral particles attached to the stylus and mouth parts are detached. When the same aphid goes from the plant barrier to the primary crop it will be virus-free. In this way, the barrier crops have a cleansing effect on the non-persistent viruses that aphids can carry.

http://www.cannagardening.ca/aphids_pests_and_diseases

 

[woodsmaneh]

What does your source water look like?

I would half the solution, then when you refill add IBA and UC roots and your girls should blow up.

I would pass on the IBA in the water, surprised you would say that DS. IBA should be used very carefully as it can delay rooting if the concentration it just a little high. The cut will keep callusing over and over instead of rooting. There is lots of research on the subject and the proper use of IBA (rooting hormones.) All your cuttings have Auxin's in them (hormones) that flow to the cut to start the rooting process, you put a little gel or powder on it to give it a little boost, but that's it. Too much IBA will delay rooting.

On another note if you look at any commercial line of rooting hormones they have a range, like at home depot they have the powder in #1, #2, #3, and #4 because not all plants need as much IBA as others, that's why the different choices using the wrong one will delay rooting. When you find the right one to clone with your plants will rock.

 

[woodsmaneh]

AzaMax™

Botanical Insecticide, Miticide, and Nematicide

AzaMax is a natural product with a broad spectrum of pest control and broad plant applications. AzaMax is made from special Azadirachtin Technical extracted using patented extraction technology from Neem, a tree known for it’s innumerable benefits. AzaMax contains Azadirachtin A&B as active ingredients and more than 100 limonoids from it’s special technology. The special feature of AzaMax is that it does not use hard chemical solvents and uses food grade formulation ingredients. AzaMax is licensed in all 50 states.
AzaMax is an antifeedant and insect growth regulator and controls pests through starvation and growth disruption. AzaMax effectively controls spider mites, thrips, fungus gnats, aphids, whiteflies, leaf miners, worms, beetles, leafhoppers, scales, mealy bugs, nematodes and other soil borne pests. Best of all, AzaMax can be applied up to the time or day of harvest. The product is exempted from residue tolerance, thus there is no harmful residue on veggies, fruits, herbs and flowers etc. Truly, AzaMax is a product of Nature in tune with Technology.
Lable and directions

 

[desertsquirrel]

We run IBA in everything. If its counterproductive how come everyone who tries it never goes back?

haha

 

[desertsquirrel]

And btw if you have aphids in a UC, you will see them. With an absence of physical inspection i wouldn't be treating for something that "may" be there.

 

[GenghisDon]

You suck DS. Look at all of this formatted copy and paste. Can't argue with bold titles and bullet lists.

 

[desertsquirrel]

Put these cuts into 4 inch cubes 4-5 days ago....

IBA and Ionic only.

 

[Coloradofrost]

Still cant quite figure this UC out. The bluemoonshine is outgrowing the rest but still has curled leaves, all five Ak's don't have curled leaves but seem too be miniaturized. Really tight internode spacing and real slow growth. I bumped the temp up to 70 degrees, 300~ ppm's and swinging ph from 5.3-6.3. Can't veg for too much longer cause the moonshine is gonna get to big, might just flip and see what happens. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[smoke3]

I had a similar issue, like yours above. I sprayed pesticide every day but it didnt work.
Here what i figured out,

1. Rockwool cubes are great for veg, but some times they become breeding ground for little insects, especially if u veg them, near your soil pots.

2. Rock wool has a different feeding requirement than hydroton (dwc). So lower your water level so its about flush with the net pot or lower. Hand water the cube every other day. The cube has to dry out. When the roots hit the current you can raise the water level up to the base of the cube. Or you can just leave it where it is.

3. During veg in the uc, very low nutes until the roots hit the water. Then bump it up to 400 maybe 600.

4. Trim some of those fan leaves off, use a trellis to open them up.
Hope this helps u.

 

[CaliOceanGrown]

shut one light down, cutt back on the nutes and let them use up some of there reserves. they look overwhelmed, give'em a nice sterile flush and just let them do there thing,then slowly pick it up from there. those downward pointing tips is deff a sign of a nitrogen over dose. Chill out on everything and just let them breathe, you'll be good.


Oh and watch out for those show samples. I got some cutting edge samples back in the day that were stupid hot, I nearly lost my plants. That stuff is often old or near exp, from my experiences.



EDIT: Don't rely on those samples for your main grow, Go out and by the UC line or Ionic, save those show samples for cuttings and pre teen plants.