FLOWER HARDENER

buddahslave · Aug 13, 2013

ttystikk said:
Some PGRs are nasty, like this stuff. Others, like the triacontanol found in alfalfa, are just fine. Know your nutes!!

Why not use dry nutrient salts and save yourself a fortune?

Example; instead of Clearex, I use 2 dry grams per gallon each of table sugar and epsom salts dissolved in hot water before adding and pH the system to 6.0 I recommend that growers never flush plants in inert materials (dwc, hydroton, coco, etc) with RO water, as it reverses the osmotic balance of the root system and interferes with the plants' ability to metabolize properly. The idea is to use up the residual nutrients in the plant by giving it free energy (sugar) in a mild solution (epsom salt) to soak it up with. The sulphur may contribute to flavor, too.

My flavors get a lot of positive comments and it smokes very smoothly even before a cure, so I can't be screwing it up too badly.

I am currently trying your clearex recipe. How long do I run it for and do I need to flush with regular water alone?

ttystikk · Aug 13, 2013

buddahslave said:
I am currently trying your clearex recipe. How long do I run it for and do I need to flush with regular water alone?

One; never overload your plants with nutrients at any point in their life cycle- and that definitely includes dumping shooting powder in right near the end of bloom. This helps keep your plants happier and cleaner in the first place, so that excessive flushing is unnecessary. A good thing, too, because flush is stressful! The plant suddenly has no nutes to work with as EC drops precipitously. I add the sugar just to give the plants some food to run on while they finish processing the last of the nutrients in their tissues. Some of those nutrients are scavenged from older parts of the plant, like fan leaves, which is the cause of those fall colors.

So, I've been most happy with my results when I time things to flush for just 4 days or so. A little goes a long way.

buddahslave · Aug 14, 2013

ttystikk said:
One; never overload your plants with nutrients at any point in their life cycle- and that definitely includes dumping shooting powder in right near the end of bloom. This helps keep your plants happier and cleaner in the first place, so that excessive flushing is unnecessary. A good thing, too, because flush is stressful! The plant suddenly has no nutes to work with as EC drops precipitously. I add the sugar just to give the plants some food to run on while they finish processing the last of the nutrients in their tissues. Some of those nutrients are scavenged from older parts of the plant, like fan leaves, which is the cause of those fall colors.

So, I've been most happy with my results when I time things to flush for just 4 days or so. A little goes a long way.

Much appreciated:cigar:

Bangarang · Aug 16, 2013

MOAB and overdrive and what dosage? Let me know and i am going to play with this today.

buddahslave · Aug 17, 2013

Bangarang said:
MOAB and overdrive and what dosage? Let me know and i am going to play with this today.

It all depends on your strain but in general start at 50% which was 4 teaspoons per gallon for the overdrive and 1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons for the moab. I increased my numbers in about a week but every couple of days to that point I would top off the rez with fresh water. In my opinion I would keep it at 50% for two weeks and then run humic acid the rest of the way. The reason why is some of my plants started to die not to mention 3 did. The humic acid should breakdown all nutes towards the end and then flush. I haven't tried it yet but I plan to on my next show:cigar:

Bangarang · Aug 17, 2013

Well that doesnt sound like the greatest combo. "The reason why is some of my plants started to die not to mention 3 did." I think i will just run the moab starting at 1.2ml/g and with each water ramp it up with the hopes of getting to 2ml/g without burning the shit out of them.

buddahslave · Aug 17, 2013

Bangarang said:
Well that doesnt sound like the greatest combo. "The reason why is some of my plants started to die not to mention 3 did." I think i will just run the moab starting at 1.2ml/g and with each water ramp it up with the hopes of getting to 2ml/g without burning the shit out of them.

Take into consideration that the system that I have my plants in is ebb & flow 48 so the plants are in a sort marijuana puppy mill and some plants are going to die regardless, but some plants did burn because I do like to push the limits and I am satisfied with the results. The dried weight more than made up for the dead plants. That's not to say I would do it again but your results might be different. I also added some koolbloom to speed up finish and add more weight at the very end so I can't pinpoint what exactly caused the burn:hungover:

ri420patient · Aug 30, 2013

Anyone ever try rock resinator in a undercurrent setup using cultured solutions nutes

buddahslave · Sep 3, 2013

I tested big bud on this last run and it is the winner as far as flower hardeners that contain no cancer causing pgr's. This product surprised me because I use allot of advanced nutrient products but not that one. I was losing big time! I think week one use moab once and then week 3 start big bud for 3 weeks and then finish with moab x overdrive. That is going to be my next test. But big bud is a must even if you don't us any other AN products, it was like using gravity:cigar:

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