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Tsigaros79
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Really high ec (5.0).Still can't figure out how that happened.I don't know how often you can foliar feed, but I'm wondering what locked out the nutes? Was in calcium? Might not be a great idea to spray with cal/mag, if that's the case.
what substrate are you running the plants inReally high ec (5.0).Still can't figure out how that happened.
that stuff reeks pretty strong just adding it to my feeding let alone making it into an aerosolMight not be a great idea to spray with cal/mag
I am using a general soil for seedlings from my local store.what substrate are you running the plants in
and after flushing were are you now on the ec scale?
have you determined the cause of the lockout
the purpose of nurseries offering general soil to its customers is due to the selection of plants offered by such nurseries. in general, home plants are a lot more hardy to conditions such as being in overly saturated soil as well as the ability to endure dry spells and surviving on little to no nutrition.I am using a general soil for seedlings from my local store.
correct those are low doses, assuming you are referring to biogrow as in, the biobizz product. cal-mag products often carry a npk ratio that need to be taken into account when used in conjuction with other nutrients containing high levels of n and adjusting accordingly. for example a calmag product consisting of 12-0-0 +Ca + Mag would require some thought when used with biogrow 4-3-6, here flowering specific nutes may come in handly by easily mixing into the example of 12-0-0. products such as a diluted atami bloombastic 0-14-14, comes to mind.
My calmag is 2-0-0.My fertilizer is indeed bio-grow from biobizz.I still can't explain the high ec.Here are some photos of my babies.They are 2 months old but as you see they were stunned.These photos were taken after i pruned all the sick leaves.the purpose of nurseries offering general soil to its customers is due to the selection of plants offered by such nurseries. in general, home plants are a lot more hardy to conditions such as being in overly saturated soil as well as the ability to endure dry spells and surviving on little to no nutrition.
cannabis for example is opposite to this in that it is sensitive to the wet/dry cycle and in its nutritional requirements.
correct those are low doses, assuming you are referring to biogrow as in, the biobizz product. cal-mag products often carry a npk ratio that need to be taken into account when used in conjuction with other nutrients containing high levels of n and adjusting accordingly. for example a calmag product consisting of 12-0-0 +Ca + Mag would require some thought when used with biogrow 4-3-6, here flowering specific nutes may come in handly by easily mixing into the example of 12-0-0. products such as a diluted atami bloombastic 0-14-14, comes to mind.
consider strongly to switch out your soil and look into making a super soil, have found nothing available that would give you similar results or experience of using such a balanced soil. the typical garden soil is no good for cannabis on its own, but may be added together as part of a base for your recipe.
How many times per week should i spray?I mixed 0.25ml of cal-mag and 0.25 of bio-grow with 1l of water to get my spraying solution.consider applying foliar spray about 2 hours after lights off.
and dont skip checking ec with every feed, this is an issue with bottled nutrients.
the constant measuring and watering associated with growing in soil is pushing me on a fast track to hydroponics with monitoring and or contoller components.
consider applying foliar spray about 2 hours after lights off.
and dont skip checking ec with every feed, this is an issue with bottled nutrients.
the constant measuring and watering associated with growing in soil is pushing me on a fast track to hydroponics with monitoring and or contoller components.
what do you mean by roots come back to normal, my assumption was that the zone around roots are waterlogged.My plants suffered a nutrient lockout and are currently recovering (5th day after having fixed the problem) and i came up with the idea of foliar spraying until their roots come back to normal.
agree the high humidity in the environment at lights down are not the best for foliar spray when not running any dehu. im giving advice based on the other parameters being in checkWhy do you recommend foliar feeding at about 2 hrs into the darkness cycle? This would be the worst time to saturate your plants especially indoors with the RH at its highest point.
I'd stay clear from spraying them down during lights off regardless of de-huey or airflow. Instead, turn the lights down to their lowest and spray during the lights on cycle. Then once the foliage is dry, return the light to its original intensity.agree the high humidity in the environment at lights down are not the best for foliar spray when not running any dehu. im giving advice based on the other parameters being in check
turning the intensity and temperature down is good for foliar but not so much if he/she is experiencing waterlogged soil and is trying to dry it out. remember overwatering and high ec is much more damaging than underwatering with low ec. coming back from underwatering is instant. let them dry out and dont worry too much about the nutrition uptake for only a few day maybe 2-3 depending on the soil and gradually start watering/ feeding as per label instructions soon after. maybe starting out with a lower ec feed and check run off..I'd stay clear from spraying them down during lights off regardless of de-huey or airflow. Instead, turn the lights down to their lowest and spray during the lights on cycle. Then once the foliage is dry, return the light to its original intensity.
I lowered light intensity as soon as i flushed the water to help them recover faster from the lockout.I am currently waiting on water to dry out to give them their first feed.The temperature is adjusted with a heater.I have led lights (300w) that do not produce much heat anyway.Any tips for drying out the soil faster?I'd stay clear from spraying them down during lights off regardless of de-huey or airflow. Instead, turn the lights down to their lowest and spray during the lights on cycle. Then once the foliage is dry, return the light
turning the intensity and temperature down is good for foliar but not so much if he/she is experiencing waterlogged soil and is trying to dry it out. remember overwatering and high ec is much more damaging than underwatering with low ec. coming back from underwatering is instant. let them dry out and dont worry too much about the nutrition uptake for only a few day maybe 2-3 depending on the soil and gradually start watering/ feeding as per label instructions soon after. maybe starting out with a lower ec feed and check run off..
then again i dont water till runoff, ever. unless i really high and get distracted
your interested in guides for liquid nutes but considering gaia green. im confused.are there any good guides for liquid nutes? im new to growing but im leaning towards coco and doing the gaia green super soil stuff. this is a thread im watching because i dont know what nute lock is caused by but slowly im learning. thanks for the great feedback!
are there any good guides for liquid nutes? im new to growing but im leaning towards coco and doing the gaia green super soil stuff. this is a thread im watching because i dont know what nute lock is caused by but slowly im learning. thanks for the great feedback!
Tune into @Shaded_One's thread. He's done outstanding with the gaia green method.
One thing though. Coco and super soil are not anywhere close to the same thing. Coco lacks nutrients and requires feeding where super soil (done right) is "water only" as everything is supposed to already be in the organic rich soil mix. Choose one or the other but don't attempt to combine them into one method. Coco is coco and should not be treated as soil. Both can give excellent results so one isn't clearly better than the other. They simply are not interchangeable. They are not the same.
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