Frankster's Diagnostic Helpline; post your problem child here.

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iX_Lazy_Xi

iX_Lazy_Xi

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Hello Frankster I have a problem child for you:
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Or should I say problem children? Now affecting 4 of 4 plants, all same strain and same media, though one plant is def. worst.

P deficiency? I recently started feeding veg nutes though they were in week 5 since sprout. They are in new FFOF with vermiculite. Please see the complete history here: https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/lsd-from-ilgm-indoor-soil.135155/#post-2746032

Today I am going to transplant all into 3 gal pots; fill with half and half ocean forest and happy frog, plus I added worm castings and a little guano powder. I will water with plain water. Thanks for your input!
I would guess fungus gnats 🤷‍♂️
 
P

Petrochemical

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That's looking like potassium issues; either too h8igh or not enough; I also spot some Magnesium deficiency on both of those plants.

Would give Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom salts) to both 1/4 tsp per quart foliar; or 1/2 tsp per gallon added to fluids. (or both)
I apologize for missing this post earlier; always feel free to PM me; if I don't answer promptly.

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Magic wand
 
Neoliet

Neoliet

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@Frankster thank you. I have given them epsom salt and a PK Booster compost tea. Also I have given them an additional SF1000 next to my SF2000. The progression of the yellowing is stopped, but new growth are curling up, the buds are yellow and the new small fan leave on the top of the buds are looking strange. I have dimmed the leds for almost a week now with 20%, But the sugar coated leaves are staying curled up. I have increased the light intensity with 5% yesterday.

Is that normal or is this going to get worse?? The buds are still getting bigger. I don’t know if the growth is stunned…
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My complete grow diary is on:

Thank you!
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Magic wand
@Frankster thank you. I have given them epsom salt and a PK Booster compost tea. Also I have given them an additional SF1000 next to my SF2000. The progression of the yellowing is stopped, but new growth are curling up, the buds are yellow and the new small fan leave on the top of the buds are looking strange. I have dimmed the leds for almost a week now with 20%, But the sugar coated leaves are staying curled up. I have increased the light intensity with 5% yesterday.

Is that normal or is this going to get worse?? The buds are still getting bigger. I don’t know if the growth is stunned…View attachment 1213133

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My complete grow diary is on:

Thank you!
Looks like light stress; I would take out a few select; strategic bigger leaves; (ones covering any budding sites) so you get some better overall penetration; you've got plenty of green to spare.

Also back the lights off some... See what happens.
Overall looks good; but I would get some better penetration going; and give those leafs some intensity relief from above.. Then watch those hairs and see if they straighten out some.... That excessive v notching reduces somewhat. I think to some degree much of that might be somewhat cultivar specific; difficult to say.

Raise the mean temps a few degrees on average in there. Maybe by 3 or so; if possible.
 
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Frankster

Frankster

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Dont sugar coat it doc how long does she have?
LoL; one went kaput...


Root issues.
On track...


Magic wand
Yes; water stress. Simple solution; I found them on the floor in there with lots of airflow; (50% RH; cause of the other in late cycle) and the little solo cups didn't hold enough moisture; then the cups fell over in the windstorm; plants started shriveling up....

So I immediately hit them with some plain water; then a tad of water with some triacontanol; for a top coat. Fed them pure water below; no fert... Didn't want anything hypertonic; trying for hypotonic solutions considering circumstances; so everything would suck into the more badly dehydrated; salt heavy dying plant leaves; and took them immediately out of light....

Within hours; 2 recovered; and could be placed back under mild light. The last one never was able to rehydrate; so kaput...
Just now up potted; a little stress training and back into the frying pan...

Whatup!😹
 
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flowerdave

flowerdave

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LoL; one went kaput...



On track...



Yes; water stress. Simple solution; I found them on the floor in there with lots of airflow; (50% RH; cause of the other in late cycle) and the little solo cups didn't hold enough moisture; then the cups fell over in the windstorm; plants started shriveling up....

So I immediately hit them with some plain water; then a tad of water with some triacontanol; for a top coat. Fed them pure water below; no fert... Didn't want anything hypertonic; trying for hypotonic solutions considering circumstances; so everything would suck into the more badly dehydrated; salt heavy dying plant leaves; and took them immediately out of light....

Within hours; 2 recovered; and could be placed back under mild light. The last one never was able to rehydrate; so kaput...
Just now up potted; a little stress training and back into the frying pan...

Whatup!😹
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Hey Frankster, I was having a discussion on a post on here and I mention that kinda stress can bring on herms. Was I wrong or is it only light getting in during flower?
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Hey Frankster, I was having a discussion on a post on here and I mention that kinda stress can bring on herms. Was I wrong or is it only light getting in during flower?
Well it's an interesting hypothesis anyhow; certainly light is prone to creating those conditions; yes. Stress can certainly also. I can also induce it chemically; but all those ways are not "real hermaphroditism" in the truest sense.

I think when were talking real hermaphroditism; there's either a general tendency there; or not. Perhaps. Certainly stress can induce this sort of behavior; if it's a possibility in the genetic coding. With rock solid genetics; my guess would be no; or very close to impossible anyhow. IMO; it's just manifesting a particular response; from a particular stimulus. A->B cause/effect.

That said; I think timing stress is going to be far more likely to induce these types of issues; and a true herm is going to do these things regardless. (strict 12/12 and dialed perfectly) Sativa landraces are commonly prone to such behavior; so it needs to be bred out; or at minimum stabilized. There's a big stretch between stress induced response; and a natural trait.. We've got to think of hermaphroditism as a continuum; and not as black and white. There is a gray area..... Cannabis; like humans have complex sexual expression; and there's a wide degree of expression in those different traits; lots of variables in environmental conditions; with a lot of genetics falling all along that full spectrum.... of expression... 🌈


The Rude Boi OG while it seems a resilient strain; it's got very apparent recessive traits.
 
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temmieroo

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hiya! I'm a first time grower. I have five plants, 3 and a half weeks old, currently in solo cups. the oldest leaves started to yellow, some of them got papery dry with dried out brown spots. the greener leaves don't feel dry at all. they're also droopy, which I'm fairly certain is from over watering. temps are around 75F during their day and 67F during the night. the humidity is fairly low, sometimes it will get up to 70%, especially if I mist the air in the closet some. my current humidifier is too small to keep up. their first week the light was too far so they stretched so I added dirt to the top to compensate for that, as I read they could be entirely replanted deeper if needed but didn't want to disturb any root growth. the light was also too close for a short time but we caught that pretty quick. they are currently in some seed starter potting mix I picked up, when they are ready to transplant into 1 gal pots we're using fox farms and mixing in some perlite. they're under a 1000w LED light, they were at 50% dimmed and 18", recently moved up to 60% and 22". I water them when the cups feel light and the soil is dry an inch down, but they still look droopy. I've discovered with some investigation that the bottoms of the cups are still pretty moist when the top is dry, I feel like they aren't draining well but I can see the excess come out the drain holes. they have two fans, one oscillating to strengthen the stems and one for circulation. the yellowing leaves with the brown spots concerns me, I don't know if it's caused by the overwatering or maybe a nitrogen deficiency? the roots are just starting to reach the edges of the cups, the leaves haven't grown past the sides of the cups yet though, they'll probably need to transplant soon though with the roots reaching the edges.

okay, that's about everything I can tell you about them. they're random seeds I've collected and almost definitely not the same strain. what do you think I should do to get them healthy again? their growth is slow and they've been droopy a few days now, and the yellowing has been getting worse. the picture of them together is 4 days ago, the rest are from today.
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Frankster

Frankster

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hiya! I'm a first time grower. I have five plants, 3 and a half weeks old, currently in solo cups. the oldest leaves started to yellow, some of them got papery dry with dried out brown spots. the greener leaves don't feel dry at all. they're also droopy, which I'm fairly certain is from over watering. temps are around 75F during their day and 67F during the night. the humidity is fairly low, sometimes it will get up to 70%, especially if I mist the air in the closet some. my current humidifier is too small to keep up. their first week the light was too far so they stretched so I added dirt to the top to compensate for that, as I read they could be entirely replanted deeper if needed but didn't want to disturb any root growth. the light was also too close for a short time but we caught that pretty quick. they are currently in some seed starter potting mix I picked up, when they are ready to transplant into 1 gal pots we're using fox farms and mixing in some perlite. they're under a 1000w LED light, they were at 50% dimmed and 18", recently moved up to 60% and 22". I water them when the cups feel light and the soil is dry an inch down, but they still look droopy. I've discovered with some investigation that the bottoms of the cups are still pretty moist when the top is dry, I feel like they aren't draining well but I can see the excess come out the drain holes. they have two fans, one oscillating to strengthen the stems and one for circulation. the yellowing leaves with the brown spots concerns me, I don't know if it's caused by the overwatering or maybe a nitrogen deficiency? the roots are just starting to reach the edges of the cups, the leaves haven't grown past the sides of the cups yet though, they'll probably need to transplant soon though with the roots reaching the edges.

okay, that's about everything I can tell you about them. they're random seeds I've collected and almost definitely not the same strain. what do you think I should do to get them healthy again? their growth is slow and they've been droopy a few days now, and the yellowing has been getting worse. the picture of them together is 4 days ago, the rest are from today.View attachment 1213353View attachment 1213354View attachment 1213355View attachment 1213356View attachment 1213357
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They look good brother; increase your nitrogen and general formula; I would try 50% higer; then double it.... Wait 3 days; and if there tolerating it will; increase it again...


Looks like nitrogen deficient 100%...

It does look like they were getting nailed hard, great tight inter noding there; just back them off a bit until the leaves start to pray in a more upward "praying" position.... I got a feeling once you increase your formula they will perk up some. As for testing dry in the cups; I wouldn't so much go by feel right now; than by weight of the container itself. Also make sure you water them slow; allowing them to wick all the area's wet; and not just running though.

Keeping internodes tight as possible before the flip is very wise; IMO.

Feel what it feels like full; and drained... Then get a feel for it when it's almost dry; you want to be on the last half of that weight.... Or 1/3 wet weight; or even 1/4....(ideal) But not much below that. When you size up your containers; I do it the same; but I perhaps let it then get a bit more dry above. But while letting them get close to empty is fine; and practical if your on top of things. It can be dangerous; you don't want "too dry"....

I do "too dry" more so; in late flowering. Not during early development. If you got good drainage; there's nothing wrong with "moist" it's sopping wet we want to avoid; and dry is also an enemy. Especially early. Whereas when the plants get bigger; especially with full flower bloom; it's got massive more fluid holding capacity; not just in volume; but also for solubility's sake. It's sequestered, stratified moisture content; if that makes any sense.

Alkaloids (THC is an alkaloid) In general, alkaloids dissolve in acidic water.


It's also why an infant is way; way more prone to fluid imbalances than an adult. Critically so. Diarrhea; or vomiting can kill a baby quick. Infants are also way more prone to heat and cold stress also. Critically so; in the case of preemie's which I used to care for in the nurseries. But any "baby" is very fragile an "fluid challenged" in early development; plants animals, it no matter.

I guess what I'm saying in the case of sprouts is that both the volume capacity; and the buffer system itself; is not highly developed.
That's why higher humidity levels are better tolerated also.
 
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temmieroo

3
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They look good brother; increase your nitrogen and general formula; I would try 50% higer; then double it.... Wait 3 days; and if there tolerating it will; increase it again...


Looks like nitrogen deficient 100%...

It does look like they were getting nailed hard, great tight inter noding there; just back them off a bit until the leaves start to pray in a more upward "praying" position.... I got a feeling once you increase your formula they will perk up some. As for testing dry in the cups; I wouldn't so much go by feel right now; than by weight of the container itself. Also make sure you water them slow; allowing them to wick all the area's wet; and not just running though.

Keeping internodes tight as possible before the flip is very wise; IMO.

Feel what it feels like full; and drained... Then get a feel for it when it's almost dry; you want to be on the last half of that weight.... Or 1/3 wet weight; or even 1/4....(ideal) But not much below that. When you size up your containers; I do it the same; but I perhaps let it then get a bit more dry above. But while letting them get close to empty is fine; and practical if your on top of things. It can be dangerous; you don't want "too dry"....

I do "too dry" more so; in late flowering. Not during early development. If you got good drainage; there's nothing wrong with "moist" it's sopping wet we want to avoid; and dry is also an enemy. Especially early. Whereas when the plants get bigger; especially with full flower bloom; it's got massive more fluid holding capacity; not just in volume; but also for solubility's sake. It's sequestered, stratified moisture content; if that makes any sense.

Alkaloids (THC is an alkaloid) In general, alkaloids dissolve in acidic water.


It's also why an infant is way; way more prone to fluid imbalances than an adult. Critically so. Diarrhea; or vomiting can kill a baby quick.
Thanks!!! They had no nutes up to this point, just what's in the potting mix. I do have some on hand, I actually took one plant and gave it a dose to test and see what happens last night after I posted. It doesn't look any better yet, but it's not any worse either.

Questions:
Should I wait until my cups are drier before I start adding nutes to the rest of them?
If I should do it now how much should I give them since it's liquid and I assume I don't want to contribute further to their moisture issues?
The liquid nutes I have are 3-3-3, I also have a big bag of organic mushroom compost I could maybe do something with. Or I can buy something better Monday if neither of those is well suited to this. What's the right choice there?
Should I see the yellowed leaves recovering and turning green again, or am I just protecting the newer growth? If those leaves aren't going to get better should I clip them off or leave them, and if I should clip them how long should I wait to do that? Some of the ends are pretty crispy and brown, I'd be amazed if they come back.

Thanks again for the help!
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Thanks!!! They had no nutes up to this point, just what's in the potting mix. I do have some on hand, I actually took one plant and gave it a dose to test and see what happens last night after I posted. It doesn't look any better yet, but it's not any worse either.

Questions:
Should I wait until my cups are drier before I start adding nutes to the rest of them?
If I should do it now how much should I give them since it's liquid and I assume I don't want to contribute further to their moisture issues?
The liquid nutes I have are 3-3-3, I also have a big bag of organic mushroom compost I could maybe do something with. Or I can buy something better Monday if neither of those is well suited to this. What's the right choice there?
Should I see the yellowed leaves recovering and turning green again, or am I just protecting the newer growth? If those leaves aren't going to get better should I clip them off or leave them, and if I should clip them how long should I wait to do that? Some of the ends are pretty crispy and brown, I'd be amazed if they come back.

Thanks again for the help!
just wait for it to recover; the bad will fall off and the light ones will green up; and you'll be aware which are which; sometimes you get a half alive leaf; and I leave them cause when the plant is small every bit helps.

I'd say something along the lines of 3-1-1 right now; but 3-3-3 might be alright. Just don't overdo it; and yes; you want fertilizer with water; add it to say a quart or a gallon jug; then apply don't put it on there concentrated, mixed diluted always. I'm pretty sure a one time application isn't going to hurt them that bad; just make sure they get properly drained, then resume the proper schedule.

sometimes you need to take corrective actions; and so there is an order off importance that applies here. too much of a good thing; or not enough of another....

So the risk here on the one hand is waiting to give nitrogen; until the plant drys... or giving it now; and allowing the pant to start receiving proper nutrients; and arrest any further leaf deterioration; then resume adequate air flow; and wet/dry cycles.... I lean toward the latter strategy.

I surmise; the origin of your leaf drooping has more to do with nutrient deficiency; than actual overwater; but that's just an educated guess. Still; I could be wrong. However; You can't simply work backwards from a symptom and assign it a specific diagnosis; you've got to look at all the potential variables in play... Then make a "best" educated guess.

If I see two distinct possibilities; I try to take the most pragmatic (least harmful) approach; that's going to minimize potential harm. I think your losing leaves; and that should be the first order of business... Just an opinion; nothing more. There is more than one way of doing anything.
 
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Frankster

Frankster

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If your concerned about the moisture; stick a fan on the roots; so you don't have any worries.... That will eliminate that issue. I keep a fan on all my plant bases always; it's just something I do as a baseline of operations. Cause 02 flow to the bases directly create more available C02 for the plant via oxidation/respiration at the root level...

You simply don't want to over dry; cause that can become an issue in small containers.
 
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temmieroo

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just wait for it to recover; the bad will fall off and the light ones will green up; and you'll be aware which are which; sometimes you get a half alive leaf; and I leave them cause when the plant is small every bit helps.

I'd say something along the lines of 3-1-1 right now; but 3-3-3 might be alright. Just don't overdo it; and yes; you want fertilizer with water; add it to say a quart or a gallon jug; then apply don't put it on there concentrated, mixed diluted always. I'm pretty sure a one time application isn't going to hurt them that bad; just make sure they get properly drained, then resume the proper schedule.

sometimes you need to take corrective actions; and so there is an order off importance that applies here. too much of a good thing; or not enough of another....

So the risk here on the one hand is waiting to give nitrogen; until the plant drys... or giving it now; and allowing the pant to start receiving proper nutrients; and arrest any further leaf deterioration; then resume adequate air flow; and wet/dry cycles.... I lean toward the latter strategy.

I surmise; the origin of your leaf drooping has more to do with nutrient deficiency; than actual overwater; but that's just an educated guess. Still; I could be wrong. However; You can't simply work backwards from a symptom and assign it a specific diagnosis; you've got to look at all the potential variables in play... Then make a "best" educated guess.

If I see two distinct possibilities; I try to take the most pragmatic (least harmful) approach; that's going to minimize potential harm. I think your losing leaves; and that should be the first order of business... Just an opinion; nothing more. There is more than one way of doing anything.
I went ahead and fed them last night the 3-3-3 diluted to 1/4. plant #2 at the time of feeding was drooping all over, looked the worst of all. I check on em this morning maybe 10 hours later, #2's leaves have come back up to being horizontal!!! the lower leaves are doing the hook end thing at the ends where it's brown, but still looking so much better. The rest aren't as shockingly better yet, but they also weren't drooping as hard as #2. I'm surprised to see a change so quickly at all!

I do have a fan on the plants, it blows at the cups and wiggles the plants a bit too. I have it oscillating on low, it kicks on for an hour and then off for 30 mins. I put a couple additional holes in the cup sides near the bottom for a little extra air circulation when I realized how moist they were at the bottom.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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I went ahead and fed them last night the 3-3-3 diluted to 1/4. plant #2 at the time of feeding was drooping all over, looked the worst of all. I check on em this morning maybe 10 hours later, #2's leaves have come back up to being horizontal!!! the lower leaves are doing the hook end thing at the ends where it's brown, but still looking so much better. The rest aren't as shockingly better yet, but they also weren't drooping as hard as #2. I'm surprised to see a change so quickly at all!

I do have a fan on the plants, it blows at the cups and wiggles the plants a bit too. I have it oscillating on low, it kicks on for an hour and then off for 30 mins. I put a couple additional holes in the cup sides near the bottom for a little extra air circulation when I realized how moist they were at the bottom.
Yea; some drain holes are critical; sometimes that gets overlooked. I keep 4 holes in my solo's, usually cut with a sharp blade along the edges; instead of punching tiny holes.

Air is great; just needs to be watched that it doesn't become excessive early on; but as time goes along it's good to have increased airflow; I increase over time. Not surprised they perked up some; hopefully the others will soon follow suit; and you'll be hitting on all cylinders again.

Generally speaking; if you've got the light; and good temps; if your not seeing noticeable growth everyday at that stage; something is generally amuck. Early growth should generally be prolific; in nature; IMO. Knowing how to ramp up the feeding is always guess work; especially with unknown cultivars; but early you should generally always be testing the waters; so to speak. Always shooting under; not over

Not overdone; but certainly not underdone either; both can be bad; and were looking to take a stab at that middle region thereabouts.... Nutrients are much like shooting a long range target; with a bow; IMO; especially when you start talking about organic nutrients. There's a release point; and then there's a trajectory curve; with some time gap; it either hits the target..... or not. Recalibrate; repeat.
 
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Oldchucky

Oldchucky

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Frankster,If I check my tea with a nitrate Test strip will that give me a ballpark reading on my nitrogen con tent? In other words, is nitrogen a nitrate? Thanks
 
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