Gavita Pro 1650e Led Vs Spydr 2i/p

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WalkerRiver

WalkerRiver

3
5
3
can anybody tell me how the heat which comes off the spydrs compares to hps and cdm
Yes.

If the entire light of any type is contained entirely (including any ballast/power supply) within the grow area, one can simply convert wattage hours to btu (3.41 btu / wh).

Thus:
a Gavita Pro 1000e produces 3,614 btu per hour (1060w X 3.41)
a SPYDRx Plus produces 2,250 btu per hour (660w X 3.41)

If you place the ballast/ power supply outside the grow area, then you must separate out the watt hours consumed by that equipment (I don't have that data handy, but it's available I'm sure)

JB
 
B

Burned Haze

Guest
can anybody tell me how the heat which comes off the spydrs compares to hps and cdm
Cob (vero 29) 1-2 temps on canopy raise
Spydrx plus 3-4 temps on canopy raise ( imagine if you were a commercial grower and you had 1000’s of lights or even 100’s in one room, it def would add up )
Hlg 1-2 raised temps on canopy


Hps and de’s and cmh all depend on brand and if it’s air cooled , just like the led ( the brand ). So to tell you the mathematics on temps for that, that’s really just just a wide range ( from 2f-10f or even more )
 
FTCG

FTCG

Hey guys, I am a little torn as to why the new Fluence Spyder2p is only 6 tubes instead of 8? I want maximum coverage with the light. I like the folding mechanism on the Spyder2p. But if I was running a 4x4 tent I would go with the Gavita Pro 1650e. Reasons being, I feel going to a 6 tube unit is kind of going backwards, and loses light around the edges.

The capability to collapse the Spyder is good, but if they both come fully assembled I don't see much of a difference there.

I kind of want to know why they decreased the coverage on the Spider.

I'm in Canada, and I would want some of these locally, and it would be nice for a easy way to have it repaired other than sending then unit to the the US.

At the moment if I was to get one or the other I'd have go with the Gavita, against my wishes. I feel this like is slightly better.

Is there any comparisons on the type of LEDs they at using?

And what of the sunplix model they are advertising as having more output than the Fluence?
 
hyzerflip

hyzerflip

Can someone who's had experience growing with DE and modern LED (like the Spyder or Gavita) tell me what they think about the difference in flower quality between the two lights?

Thanks!
 
SinCity

SinCity

Excellent choice, and very nice fixtures for less $$. You will love them.
@Rootbound to the rescue again. ok, not buying the fluences. Quantum Boards by HLG. this steep ass learning curve is a bitch. but i'm grateful for you mods taking the time to guide us.

do you have an optimal wattage per square foot? moreover, what freakin' wattage would i look to? my entire frame of reference is 1000watts from sodiums and halides, which was a rough proxy for lumens--sort of (given reflectivity, canopy, etc). but i haven't come to understand how to balance the cost of the input wattage in my electric bill versus the output wattage--and i know it's PAR i should be paying attention to.

slowly but surely i know... i've never been a patient woman.

grateful dead lyrics come in for the run again--"one step done, another begun". i'll get there.

Quantum Boards by HLG. And is there an optimal PAR per foot or meter..or? HELP :(
 
SinCity

SinCity

i'm sure a staff member at HLG will walk me through finding the max light for the least electricity.

@Rootbound or any other of you generous souls, do you have a general optimal PAR per square foot or meter? or do you have an optimal output wattage per sq ft/meter. in my day, and in the large-ish rooms we were in, it was just the more watts the better....

grateful in advance...
 
Rootbound

Rootbound

Supporter
@Rootbound to the rescue again. ok, not buying the fluences. Quantum Boards by HLG. this steep ass learning curve is a bitch. but i'm grateful for you mods taking the time to guide us.

do you have an optimal wattage per square foot? moreover, what freakin' wattage would i look to? my entire frame of reference is 1000watts from sodiums and halides, which was a rough proxy for lumens--sort of (given reflectivity, canopy, etc). but i haven't come to understand how to balance the cost of the input wattage in my electric bill versus the output wattage--and i know it's PAR i should be paying attention to.

slowly but surely i know... i've never been a patient woman.

grateful dead lyrics come in for the run again--"one step done, another begun". i'll get there.

Quantum Boards by HLG. And is there an optimal PAR per foot or meter..or? HELP :(
I normally dont go over 30 watts per square ft with my hlg quantum boards. I rum mine at 400-450 watts in my 4x4 area.
 
Gavita Pro 1650e LED

Well has anyone tried this led or seen any journals online with this led yet ? I would love to see some input and opinion cause gavita is def trying to fight in the led game


Sounds interesting to sound the least... ( I’m in no way affiliated or advertising this company , just wanted to bring their new led up to discussion/see if anyone has any views )



The Gavita Pro 1650 LED ML is 1650 µmol s-1 fixture with an efficiency of 2.6 µmol s-1 per watt. ML stands for Multi-Layer, as the array of LEDs provides a uniform spread of light at short distance to the crop. The array configuration of 8 LED bars also allows you to use it in low rooms, over single benches, or even in 4 x 4 ft or 5 x 5 ft tents. This fixture is built with high quality 120-270 volt Philips advance drivers. Power cords sold separately.

The Gavita Pro 1650e LED ML LED grow light can be used in commercial grows (horizontal and vertical), greenhouses, home grows (rooms and tents) or in climate rooms. The thin 2.1 inch profile is also ideal for low rooms or over benches.

Boasting an incredible 2.6 umol/J and a light output of 1650 umol/s the Pro1650e LED ML provides high-intensity full spectrum light over its entire 4'x4' to 5'x5' flowering footprint. The wide 8-bar form factor helps to provide even coverage across your canopy.

This fixture is passively cooled and is built with high-quality 120-277V Philips Advance LED Drivers for optimum performance.

Features and Benefits
  • Full spectrum with enhanced red for full cycle grows
  • Wide 8-bar form factor for even canopy coverage
  • 646-watt power draw to replace a 1000W HPS
  • 1650 umol/s light output
  • 2.6 umol/J efficiency
  • 120-277V adaptable driver
  • Compatible with Gavita Master EL1 and EL2 Gen 2 Controller for full lighting control
Product Notes
  • The 120V and 240V cords include a plug. The 277V contains an open end cable (open wire leads).
  • The E-Series adapter is only needed if you are connecting the LED fixture(s) to a controller. Otherwise, only a power cord is needed to operate the fixture.
Product Specs
  • Wattage Draw: 646 watts (120V), 629 watts (208-240V), 629 watts (277V)
  • HPS equivalent: 1000 watts
  • Spectrum: Full-spectrum white with enhanced red for seed to flower growth
  • PPF (light output): 1650 umol/s
  • PAR Efficacy: 2.6 umol/J
  • Coverage area: Flowering footprint: 4'x4' to 5'x5' (16 to 25 sq ft), Vegetative footprint: 6'x6' to 7'x7' (36 to 49 sq ft)
  • Dimensions: 44.1 x 44.1 x 2.1 in (112 x 112 x 5.3 cm)
  • Product weight: 28.4 lbs (12.9 kg)
  • Temperature Ambient: 68 ~ 86° F / 20 ~ 30° C for optimal functioning
  • Operating/input voltage: 5.4 A (120V), 2.6 A (208-240V), 2.3 A (277V)
  • Additional details: ETL certified; Can be connected to a Master controller with optional Gavita E-Series Adaptor
  • Product includes: Light fixture [unless selected with options (i.e. cord, controller)]
  • Recommended for: Commercial grows, Greenhouses, Home grows (rooms and tents), Soil, hydroponic, aeroponic, or aquaponic systems, Indoor farming or gardening
  • Manufacturer's Warranty: 3 years (see product specs for details)
THE GAVITA PRO 1650e LED
The Gavita Pro 1650e LED is a 1650 µmol s-1 fixture with an impressive efficiency of 2.6 µmol s-1 per watt. The Pro 1650e LED delivers broad coverage with its' 8 passively cooled LED bars. It can be used in a top light or multi-layer application. This powerful, full-spectrum light source is intended for full term plant growth from the vegetative stage to the higher light requiring bloom stage. This fixture is built with high quality 120-277 volt Philips brand drivers.

FORM FACTOR
The Gavita Pro 1650e LED is a project fixture by design. It installs right out of the box, reducing installation costs. Built around high-quality Philips-Advance drivers and top bin LEDs, the Gavita Pro 1650e LED breathes functionality and robustness. Its low height and external interface make it ideal for multi-layer cultivation. Various mounting systems (fixed brackets) are available. 4 adjustable Sun Grips light hangers are included with the fixture.

OUTPUT AND EFFICIENCY
With 1650 μmol s-1 total output, the Gavita Pro 1650e LED is a flowering fixture. It can achieve a high average ppfd of 1000 μmol s-1 m-2 on your crop. For mixed vegetative / flowering environments and to tune the amount of light to the cultivars you grow, the Gavita Pro 1650e LED can be dimmed to 50% without any loss of efficiency. The high fixture efficiency of 2.6 μmol s-1 per Watt enables you to finally leap ahead in reducing your HVAC capacity by about 30-40% compared to regular open HPS/MH solutions. The high efficiency and low powered LED configuration with 8 LED bars reduces the temperature of the LEDs – increasing the output and improving their light maintenance.

SPECTRUM
Our combination of white and red LEDs result in a relatively high ratio of blue light. Blue light keeps your crop compact in the vegetative stage and adds to an optimal morphogenesis and light interception by the plant. It maintains the photosynthetic system of the plant to optimize its photosynthetic potential and can shorten your flowering period. Blue light also triggers stomatal opening during the light period. The spread of red LEDs in the array guarantees a uniformly mixed spectrum on your crop at short distance. A full spectrum increases the quality of your crop.

EXTERNAL CONTROL
The Gavita Pro 1650e LED is compatible with the Gavita Master controllers. It is equipped with an external e-series (Repeater Bus) adapter to which you connect power and control signal. The Gavita repeater bus control interface allows you to install 500 fixtures per controller port by simply daisy chaining the fixtures. The fixture is universal for 120-277 volt systems. Depending on the required voltage, we supply a cable with 120V plug, 240V plug, or open-end cable for industrial voltages and custom installations. The cables are connected to the e-series adapter and the fixture by means of an industrial-grade “
I am buying this light today. Its specs are overall better than the fluence and it costs less. I'll start a thread as soon as its delivered.
 
I have a fluence and it's a great light. I also use an amare se 500 and a 4 qb288 with 8 cree 660nm xpe diodes per board. Runs at 600 watts. LEDs are far and away better grow lights than any hid. They yeild just as much or more they finish a little faster bring out more color run cooler and use less wattage. At this point there is really no reason to go hid except upfront cost. I'd gladly answer any questions you have beyond this.
 
hyzerflip

hyzerflip

I have a fluence and it's a great light. I also use an amare se 500 and a 4 qb288 with 8 cree 660nm xpe diodes per board. Runs at 600 watts. LEDs are far and away better grow lights than any hid. They yeild just as much or more they finish a little faster bring out more color run cooler and use less wattage. At this point there is really no reason to go hid except upfront cost. I'd gladly answer any questions you have beyond this.

Thank you for taking the time to reply! Like I said in my original comment, my main concern is flower quality. How is the quality of the end product compared to HID?
 
hyzerflip

hyzerflip

Has anyone anywhere grown and smoked flower produced by LED and HIDs? What is the difference in quality?

I've asked that question over 10 times in the last few days on a couple different forums and not a single person has answered the question. What's up with that? Is LED flower quality a lot lower and nobody wants to talk about it?

I'd really like to try LED tech but there's no way I'm going to do it if everyone goes quiet when you ask about quality.
 
bigdaddyg8

bigdaddyg8

Has anyone anywhere grown and smoked flower produced by LED and HIDs? What is the difference in quality?

I've asked that question over 10 times in the last few days on a couple different forums and not a single person has answered the question. What's up with that? Is LED flower quality a lot lower and nobody wants to talk about it?

I'd really like to try LED tech but there's no way I'm going to do it if everyone goes quiet when you ask about quality.
i am currently at the end of a run week 9 of 10 (first run w/leds) 2 HLG600
27LI6rHNQ6Op9oJ9BOeZhA.jpg
Ozm8ZgM6TgWakzIaCqfS+w.jpg
. good production and they are very resiny and LOOKS like good quality. (24 K, strain)
 
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Has anyone anywhere grown and smoked flower produced by LED and HIDs? What is the difference in quality?

I've asked that question over 10 times in the last few days on a couple different forums and not a single person has answered the question. What's up with that? Is LED flower quality a lot lower and nobody wants to talk about it?

I'd really like to try LED tech but there's no way I'm going to do it if everyone goes quiet when you ask about quality.
I heard(and saw his pics and few other LED grown bud pics to compare,but I don't flower indoors under leds and haven't tried expensive LED units for flowering )from one member here -az2000 that the LED flowered buds have less trichomes.He was refering to household bulbs in his post so I could be wrong about the quality "grow"units?By his opinion lack of UV or something is causing this...I 'm starting to think(about those trichomes more and more haha)it looks like it is true?But I just don't know for sure.Yes,they are getting fat and everything,and they look wonderfull but I would really love to hear other first hand experience on the trichomes?Any compartions,like the same strain under HPS and QB for example(because I wanted to buy quality QB for my small indoor one day)?
 
angry monkey

angry monkey

Has anyone anywhere grown and smoked flower produced by LED and HIDs? What is the difference in quality?

I've asked that question over 10 times in the last few days on a couple different forums and not a single person has answered the question. What's up with that? Is LED flower quality a lot lower and nobody wants to talk about it?

I'd really like to try LED tech but there's no way I'm going to do it if everyone goes quiet when you ask about quality.
I think my quality went up. I switched from gavita to hlg and my plants look frostier and increased density. Flavor may be subjective but I notice my chems in particular are chemmier and have been growing them more as that is a flavor I really like.
 
B

Brandon Johnson

Has anyone anywhere grown and smoked flower produced by LED and HIDs? What is the difference in quality?

I've asked that question over 10 times in the last few days on a couple different forums and not a single person has answered the question. What's up with that? Is LED flower quality a lot lower and nobody wants to talk about it?

I'd really like to try LED tech but there's no way I'm going to do it if everyone goes quiet when you ask about quality.
I've ran 1000w hortilux hps for over 10yrs now.
VS.
My friend runs all quantum boards.
He grows all my keeper collection. And our watts per square are nearly the same.

HPS pros:
Much denser flower.
Higher calyx to leaf ratio.
Much more trich and terps.
Lights mounted high, no raising or lowering.
Headroom

Quantum pros:
Much higher yield

HPS cons:
Slightly higher temps produced w4w (but I use ducted hoods to handle that)

Quantum cons:
Always need height adj.
Require supplemental UV, NIR and far red.
Leafier and fluffier flower
Less complex terpene production

I'm actually on this topic looking for what he is doing wrong.
He supps UV, NIR, far red, and co2.
I don't supp any of those.
 
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B

Brandon Johnson

Seperate rooms?
If not the HPS will spread out slightly helping the led side which does not spread out to return the favor.
 
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