RoadKillSkunkHunt
- Posts
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- Joined
- Mar 23, 2025
- Points
- 263
You have the right idea. You simply need to find what the sweet spot in dry-back is. I use a moisture meter. It takes the guess out of the equation ... some people on here scoff at the idea of using one ... however, tools that help with consistency through the grow are positive tools no matter what. Considering these moisture meters don't cost much, not having one in your toolbox is a mistake. Something like this is sufficient:I am drying back well, I think. I check the soil a bit, and the weight, but I'm mostly waiting on the plant to just start to show, then saturate the pots.
Agree. When I was working in licensed grow operations we had fert salespeople coming in practically every day talking about their new product and how it was going to increase yields. In all the side by sides I saw I can't say I saw one that even came close to their claims. Some improvement was seen on a few products but not enough to make it worthwhile for a tent grower to utilize.some do. I have this "probud" 2 component mineral from ebay. 2x1 Liter. If you use both, you come with 11-8-16. And they advice you to take 4-5ml /Liter of each the whole grow. So you end up with 550ppm/400ppm/800ppm. Also a lot of calcium , magnesium etc. Took 3-4 weeks until my e plants had severe issues and all kinds of symptoms.
Good thing, if you know what youre doing, you only take 1 ml of each bottle and you have a great and very cheap fertilizer. used that for a few grows now and the bottles are still not empty^^
they absolutely have no idea what theyre doing.
I use a product called FloraNova from GH. I had someone that was using Botanicare claim that, while both FloraNova Grow and Botanicare Grow were similar in performance, Botanicare was cheaper to run. I asked him to compare the dosage rates the manufacturer recommended on both bottles. After doing the math he realized that the FN gallon bottle was giving him over 30% more doses than the Botanicare. When he factored in the price difference, he realized it was actually cheaper to run FN than it was Botanicare.There are also some brands that play that game from the other side, they make the soup super thin, so you basically end up using a whole cup of products each watering and end up just in that 120/60/120 area. They basically make you pay 1-2 dollar each watering...if youre naive enough enoguh to alo incorporate all their "extra secret juices"
Agree. I like Airpots but too many negatives compared to cloth pots.id just go with cheap fabrics. They make a dense rootball just as good as superrot/airpots. Had the chance to compare them more than once. The airpots can be a pain to water, you cant just water them in one run, especially when theyre dry.(what they should be when you water)..while the fabric pots, they will just suck back any water that rinses through..if you have them on a dish/cup.
I use a product called FloraNova from GH. I had someone that was using Botanicare claim that, while both FloraNova Grow and Botanicare Grow were similar in performance, Botanicare was cheaper to run. I asked him to compare the dosage rates the manufacturer recommended on both bottles. After doing the math he realized that the FN gallon bottle was giving him over 30% more doses than the Botanicare. When he factored in the price difference, he realized it was actually cheaper to run FN than it was Botanicare.
I asked GH if FloraTrio and FN were the same and they said yes except for whatever they use to keep the ingredients from precipitating. Maybe they were generalizing but that was the answer I got from them.My neighbor uses FloraNova and loves it. I use GH Flora series Trio (similar but not quite the same as floranova) and I swear by it. I use GH maxigrow and maxibloom with veggies in my outdoor garden. I've also used botanicare ... nothing wrong with it, its a good line, but I prefer the GH lines for a reason. Consistent performance.
Yes, that's a male.With the flip, I'm seeing some changes on one of the plants. Is this one a male?
theres a famous Luxmeter from Uni-T for 20 bucks that you can use as a pretty accurate Par-Sensor. It only reads lumen and not par ofc, but once you know the factor you can just convert it. In my case, i just look at the number and divide it by 60. If it shows 30,000, i know im at 500 umol.
i learned that from the Migro Channel and it serves me well.
Sounds good. I think it's slightly high for flower at around 70 plus.
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