General help and recommendations please.

[RoadKillSkunkHunt]

I am drying back well, I think. I check the soil a bit, and the weight, but I'm mostly waiting on the plant to just start to show, then saturate the pots.

You have the right idea. You simply need to find what the sweet spot in dry-back is. I use a moisture meter. It takes the guess out of the equation ... some people on here scoff at the idea of using one ... however, tools that help with consistency through the grow are positive tools no matter what. Considering these moisture meters don't cost much, not having one in your toolbox is a mistake. Something like this is sufficient:

 

[spase]

I did get a couple 5 gallon fabric pots with a 2x2x4 tent package I got for drying and curing. I'll get another few more and use those next round. I suppose a couple smaller ones to start in? Or do I just start on the 5 gallon with coco and a drip?

 

[KolaKing]

some do. I have this "probud" 2 component mineral from ebay. 2x1 Liter. If you use both, you come with 11-8-16. And they advice you to take 4-5ml /Liter of each the whole grow. So you end up with 550ppm/400ppm/800ppm. Also a lot of calcium , magnesium etc. Took 3-4 weeks until my e plants had severe issues and all kinds of symptoms.

Good thing, if you know what youre doing, you only take 1 ml of each bottle and you have a great and very cheap fertilizer. used that for a few grows now and the bottles are still not empty^^
they absolutely have no idea what theyre doing.

Agree. When I was working in licensed grow operations we had fert salespeople coming in practically every day talking about their new product and how it was going to increase yields. In all the side by sides I saw I can't say I saw one that even came close to their claims. Some improvement was seen on a few products but not enough to make it worthwhile for a tent grower to utilize.

There are also some brands that play that game from the other side, they make the soup super thin, so you basically end up using a whole cup of products each watering and end up just in that 120/60/120 area. They basically make you pay 1-2 dollar each watering...if youre naive enough enoguh to alo incorporate all their "extra secret juices"

I use a product called FloraNova from GH. I had someone that was using Botanicare claim that, while both FloraNova Grow and Botanicare Grow were similar in performance, Botanicare was cheaper to run. I asked him to compare the dosage rates the manufacturer recommended on both bottles. After doing the math he realized that the FN gallon bottle was giving him over 30% more doses than the Botanicare. When he factored in the price difference, he realized it was actually cheaper to run FN than it was Botanicare.

id just go with cheap fabrics. They make a dense rootball just as good as superrot/airpots. Had the chance to compare them more than once. The airpots can be a pain to water, you cant just water them in one run, especially when theyre dry.(what they should be when you water)..while the fabric pots, they will just suck back any water that rinses through..if you have them on a dish/cup.

Agree. I like Airpots but too many negatives compared to cloth pots.

 

[RoadKillSkunkHunt]

I use a product called FloraNova from GH. I had someone that was using Botanicare claim that, while both FloraNova Grow and Botanicare Grow were similar in performance, Botanicare was cheaper to run. I asked him to compare the dosage rates the manufacturer recommended on both bottles. After doing the math he realized that the FN gallon bottle was giving him over 30% more doses than the Botanicare. When he factored in the price difference, he realized it was actually cheaper to run FN than it was Botanicare.

My neighbor uses FloraNova and loves it. I use GH Flora series Trio (similar but not quite the same as floranova) and I swear by it. I use GH maxigrow and maxibloom with veggies in my outdoor garden. I've also used botanicare ... nothing wrong with it, its a good line, but I prefer the GH lines for a reason. Consistent performance.

 

[KolaKing]

My neighbor uses FloraNova and loves it. I use GH Flora series Trio (similar but not quite the same as floranova) and I swear by it. I use GH maxigrow and maxibloom with veggies in my outdoor garden. I've also used botanicare ... nothing wrong with it, its a good line, but I prefer the GH lines for a reason. Consistent performance.

I asked GH if FloraTrio and FN were the same and they said yes except for whatever they use to keep the ingredients from precipitating. Maybe they were generalizing but that was the answer I got from them.

When I was working in LGO's I got to talk to a lot of sales people. I also got courted by a lot of manufacturer reps, not sales people but admin within the manufacturer, as I had some influence on buying. I would ask them to take me to see their manufacturing process. Most would decline at first but when I told them I couldn't consider them unless I knew how their product was being manufactured they let me see where and how it was being manufactured. A lot of the companies used the same manufacturing facility. It was one of the big boy fert producers so I won't name names but most all the brands get manufactured in a few facilities so most of it is the same formulation with a tweek here or there.

 

[Phyto]

With the flip, I'm seeing some changes on one of the plants. Is this one a male?

Yes, that's a male.

 

[spase]

As I'm now moved to flower, do I want to change temp or humidity? Or VPD?

I've removed the hermaphrodite/male.

 

[Mannitu78]

theres not much into Humidity as long as you live in an area with somewhat normal humidity and have air exchange in the tent. As long as the seedling or clones dont have roots, they take their water out of the air, so you wanna keep them moist, by flipping a glas or a small plastic bag over it until they root.. Other than that i have long given up on monitoring the humidity.

For budrot in late flower to occurr you have to live in a very humid area or have rain for weeks and/or low air exchange. Also make sure not keep a large tent in a small, closed room, because the humidity will rise.

 

[spase]

Sounds good. I think it's slightly high for flower at around 70 plus. I'm running a dehumidifier in the outer room(I've got a converted closet, not a tent). I did get a tent for drying and curing I'll be controlling a bit more. I might be able to use the ac unit for both.

 

[spase]

I am also seeing flower sign on one of the other plants:

 

[Mannitu78]

i switched this tent also 10 days ago, theyre pretty much the same age...streching wildly. i have another tent that i overwatered and isnt doing so great.

 

[KolaKing]

In flower I like to lower the humidity to the 45% - 50% range. After week 6 you want to start to lower your temps and light energy to build and preserve terpenes.

 

[spase]

I've been slowly ramping up the light. It's at 6 of 10 now. I've not yet noticed anything looking to be a light related issue. 9 or 10 is probably where I need to get. How fast do you usually get it to optimized brightness?

 

[Mannitu78]

theres a famous Luxmeter from Uni-T for 20 bucks that you can use as a pretty accurate Par-Sensor. It only reads lumen and not par ofc, but once you know the factor you can just convert it. In my case, i just look at the number and divide it by 60. If it shows 30,000, i know im at 500 umol.

i learned that from the Migro Channel and it serves me well.

 

[Mannitu78]

you dont need any "gentle light increase curve"...once you flip and only have 12 hours of light, just hit it with full intensity, 700-800 umol...that equals about 30 watts/squarefoot with a somewhat efficient light.

 

[Mannitu78]

theres a famous Luxmeter from Uni-T for 20 bucks that you can use as a pretty accurate Par-Sensor. It only reads lumen and not par ofc, but once you know the factor you can just convert it. In my case, i just look at the number and divide it by 60. If it shows 30,000, i know im at 500 umol.

i learned that from the Migro Channel and it serves me well.

 

[spase]

Thank you all for the help. I feel this grow is going nicely, and it would not be as nice without your help!

 

[Mannitu78]

ah lets just hope you dont get any more fags :)

Sounds good. I think it's slightly high for flower at around 70 plus.

Thats only a problem when you
a) have thick buds where the inside doesnt get air AND
b) its constantly over 70% for many days or even weeks.

you dont even have any buds yet that can rot from the inside.


even in late flower with thick buds it doesnt do any harm when it goes above 70 for a day or two, as long as it gets back to 60 or lower any other day and you have moving air in the tent.


you should actually never need a dehumidifier indoors. i really feel people make themselfes way too much headache.

if you have 50% in your room, but your tent has 70 or 80%, its just a matter of increasing the exhaust fan and getting more air exchange.You shouldnt need any more tools than the speedcontrol of that fan.

 

[spase]

I think another is male. One is definitely female. Hopefully the last one is too.

I've got a dehumidifier in the feed room. Though that goes through my veg room to get to the flower room...

 

[spase]

Here's a pic of the new possible male. The pollen pods are smaller than the other one, if that's what they are.