Grow Room A/C

El Cerebro · Jun 1, 2012

dankworth said:
I hear those portables do not cool as well as a wall unit

Def not, and most suck out the cool-air/humid/stink, making it even worse. If you have to go portable then get a quality dual-hose with decent seer, and be prepared for it to still be lame. I have a little experience wasting time/$ on these, get a good window banger and vent it yourself instead, plus cheaper per output and generally more reliable.

CJ has figure for btu per light, 6k per 1 k for open, can't remember vented (4k I think?) Also depends some on ambient temps of the air you put through the condenser. Maybe if that's what you already have to work with, could use big cfm to vent lights and insulate the hood surfaces. Otherwise maybe 3 600s better for the 10k portable.

Carl Sagan · Jun 1, 2012

Masters of thy AC universe.. I'm sort of at a loss

what can we do to cool down this quirky room that we're trying to wrangle into a worthwhile growspace?

Check this-

It's a skylight that is... around 4'x4', and below it you can see a single swinging french door.

the room is something like 8'x12'x7' (the ceiling slopes but 7' is the average)

Running 2x400w HPS, two fans, one T5@150w~

what can we do to cheaply cool this room? Temps are bumpin' around 90 despite the window being completely open and fans blowin'. Obviously AC is the answer, but I am in need of a little problem solving. What do I do with this skylight? Who wants to get creative with me?

It should be worth noting that this won't be permanent, only for 2-3 harvests. We are moving in a year.

:D

El Cerebro · Jun 1, 2012

Man, hole in the ceiling, that's awesome. You could run about anything in there and vent through that skylight. If you don't plan on adding any lights, and based on your moving comment, this is where a portable could be fine (isolated and filtered for stink if necessary, still recommend dual hose though). Boxed window unit would work great too, and you could build it to take with you. Or... add a bunch of light and go mini split!

If the skylight lid don't come off easily, you could just frame in a temporary ceiling plate and vent with it open (assuming not rainy area).

is it tho · Jun 3, 2012

quick question for you guys.
if i have a 9000btu split unit (panasonic) in my garden office and a 1.2m grow tent with a 600w light, 6"extraction with rhino filter, 6 plants(max) thats in a storage cupboard next door. Could i extract my grow into the office space and let the split aircon deal with heat and humidity from the grow. Would also take my intake from office space.
fresh air would be supplied from the trickle vents on the doors to office and me going in/out office several times a day?
many thanks

Carl Sagan · Jun 3, 2012

El Cerebro said:
Man, hole in the ceiling, that's awesome. You could run about anything in there and vent through that skylight. If you don't plan on adding any lights, and based on your moving comment, this is where a portable could be fine (isolated and filtered for stink if necessary, still recommend dual hose though). Boxed window unit would work great too, and you could build it to take with you. Or... add a bunch of light and go mini split!

If the skylight lid don't come off easily, you could just frame in a temporary ceiling plate and vent with it open (assuming not rainy area).

oh my gaaad i broke my back yesterday trying to hang the damn thing with chains haha!

thanks so much for your advice! I am going to nail wood across the opening, then go on the roof and lower the AC unit on to it and secure it with chains. I bought a board of that rigid pink insulation and i'm going to put that around all the openings of the window unit. I HOPE it works. it's all we got!

i mean, a window AC unit is placed at the apex of a 3rd floor otherwise-windowless/ventless room... it should be alright eh? my fans should circulate the air well enough...

UPOC · Jun 5, 2012

This thread is gangster! Had a quick question i have a 13X17 room with a height of 8ft. I am going to run 6k un cooled burning co2 was wondering if a 3 ton ac would be sufficient? and if anyone has heard of gibson?? Thanks

kobebryant472 · Jun 6, 2012

can someone help me, im setting up a SEALED grow room at my place, and i have Central AC. im gonna run the AC 24/7 at a certain temp and will keep the rest of the house vents closed. my problem is, the thermostat is not in the grow-room, but in the living room. so will the temperature be maintained in all the rooms equal? or will the sealed room be hotter since it doesnt have the thermostat in there? what can i do about this? thx in advance!

CannabisJohn · Jun 6, 2012

UPOC said:
This thread is gangster! Had a quick question i have a 13X17 room with a height of 8ft. I am going to run 6k un cooled burning co2 was wondering if a 3 ton ac would be sufficient? and if anyone has heard of gibson?? Thanks

Should be good>

CannabisJohn · Jun 6, 2012

kobebryant472 said:
can someone help me, im setting up a SEALED grow room at my place, and i have Central AC. im gonna run the AC 24/7 at a certain temp and will keep the rest of the house vents closed. my problem is, the thermostat is not in the grow-room, but in the living room. so will the temperature be maintained in all the rooms equal? or will the sealed room be hotter since it doesnt have the thermostat in there? what can i do about this? thx in advance!

Won't work w/o reworking the duct work and relocating stat. If you close rest of vents off the a/c can't move enough air. It will freeze up. I did a house but put in large ducts into grow area and disconnected rest of house ducts. I also relocated the stat to grow area.

masshole61 · Jun 9, 2012

Hello John. I'm putting together my equipment for a new 6x12x7.5 sealed room, with 2000w in aircooled raptors. Been looking at Mitsubishi slim , LG, and fujitsu 9000 btu mini splits and wanted to know your thoughts on the BEST mini split money could buy. My wish list would include high seer, remote heat sensor (something I could place at canopy height) and the ability to regulate relative humidity. I have an ac guy who will install for me, and an electrician, and would like your input on an online distributor ( northeast destination) of the mini you would suggest. Also growing in soil, if that matters.
Lastly would the dehumidifying capacity of the mini be enough or will I need an additional dehumidifier as well during lights off?
Have followed your threads. Appreciate your advice.

CannabisJohn · Jun 11, 2012

masshole61 said:
Hello John. I'm putting together my equipment for a new 6x12x7.5 sealed room, with 2000w in aircooled raptors. Been looking at Mitsubishi slim , LG, and fujitsu 9000 btu mini splits and wanted to know your thoughts on the BEST mini split money could buy. My wish list would include high seer, remote heat sensor (something I could place at canopy height) and the ability to regulate relative humidity. I have an ac guy who will install for me, and an electrician, and would like your input on an online distributor ( northeast destination) of the mini you would suggest. Also growing in soil, if that matters.
Lastly would the dehumidifying capacity of the mini be enough or will I need an additional dehumidifier as well during lights off?
Have followed your threads. Appreciate your advice.

I would get 12k (9k will work for air cooled but don't air cool and get slightly bigger a/c) Mitsubishi unit. Don't buy Fujistu online. The warranty is no good is bought online. The a/c will not maintain humidity by itself. As far as remote sensor not sure if you can find online for any unit. I know Mitsubishi has one. Sometimes it's 2 components. If you need help getting remote sensor stat for Mitsubishi let me know I maybe able to help.

masshole61 · Jun 11, 2012

CannabisJohn said:
I would get 12k (9k will work for air cooled but don't air cool and get slightly bigger a/c) Mitsubishi unit. Don't buy Fujistu online. The warranty is no good is bought online. The a/c will not maintain humidity by itself. As far as remote sensor not sure if you can find online for any unit. I know Mitsubishi has one. Sometimes it's 2 components. If you need help getting remote sensor stat for Mitsubishi let me know I maybe able to help.

Thank you John. I appreciate your input. Was leaning towards the Mitsubishi anyway, but heard that Fujitsu were supposedly the best.
I was planning on air-cooled hoods because I assumed that pulling the air through the hoods was cheaper than running the mini split thus being overall cheaper on my electric bill. That the duct fan was cheaper to run than the mini, so the mini would come on less often. Are you telling me, fuck the fan, open the hoods, the mini alone would be overall cheaper on the electric?
Lastly, any recommendations on a high seer dehumidifier that doesn't put out much heat?
I don't post much, anything you want to know is right here on one of these posts, but this is the most expensive purchase in my room and wanted to hear from a pro. From one gentleman to another, I thank you.

CannabisJohn · Jun 12, 2012

masshole61 said:
Thank you John. I appreciate your input. Was leaning towards the Mitsubishi anyway, but heard that Fujitsu were supposedly the best.
I was planning on air-cooled hoods because I assumed that pulling the air through the hoods was cheaper than running the mini split thus being overall cheaper on my electric bill. That the duct fan was cheaper to run than the mini, so the mini would come on less often. Are you telling me, fuck the fan, open the hoods, the mini alone would be overall cheaper on the electric?
Lastly, any recommendations on a high seer dehumidifier that doesn't put out much heat?
I don't post much, anything you want to know is right here on one of these posts, but this is the most expensive purchase in my room and wanted to hear from a pro. From one gentleman to another, I thank you.

IMO Mitsubishi and Fujitsu are equal in quality but you can't buy Fujitsu online. You can buy Mitsubishi online. They have the same warranty.
I have read threads that advocate no air cooling of lights because it affects the spectrum that reaches your plants. I'm no expert on the lighting part. An inverter style mini split will be quieter and most likely cheaper to run because you are only adding a few more btus/hr to go from air cooled to non air cooled.

outwest · Jun 12, 2012

dankworth said:
I hear those portables do not cool as well as a wall unit.

I can attest to that, but for me a window unit was not an option, and the portable fits my needs.

outwest

freshgardens · Jun 14, 2012

Whats up Jon, quick question for you. I am in a socal warehouse. 4 units in from the street. Inside i am running 12 lights in a 20x20 sealed room. We had 8 lights and was using a wall mount 28,000 btu and that was fine but now am upgrading and summer is here. Also the lights are aircooled. We were thinking of either a 4 ton ac unit that fits on the top of the warehouse (pros- cheaper and alot more efficient) Cons- Everyone will now see that there is an ac on the top of the building, although the unit right next to us has one we feel it will raise eyebrows. Our next option is a kwikool portable 42,000 btu system that we just put right in the room but now really cant control outside of the room. Which do you feel is bets or if you have any other suggestions that be great thanks! Fg

evu80 · Jun 15, 2012

hey fellow farmers

I got a couple of newbie question for you guys. I'm trying to set up a window AC without using a window and I'm having a tough time keeping it cool and functioning correctly. It seems like its overheats and it stops cooling all together although its still running. I can't really afford a mini split unit at this moment so this will have to hold me over for now.

My first question is regarding the laws of cooling, if there such a thing but if would definitely help me understand how to better design my room.

Lets say there is a sealed box with the following dimensions of 10x10x10 and one side of the box you have a huge exhaust fan with the ratings of 1900 cfm and inside the box is an electric oven that's on 24/7. Now assuming this fan is consistently on as well. Will there be a point where the fan cannot exhaust anymore because it has no air to exhaust and the heat inside will just continually build up? In other words do we have to have a source of new air in order to vent out the old heated air inside this box.

hope you guys follow what Im trying to say.

If the answer is yes, in order to vent a room properly a new source of air must be introduce to keep the air flow moving, what is the proper rule of thumb for the intake volume to ensure the heat NEVER builds up inside.

sox · Jun 15, 2012

How big do i need to go to cover 8k?

CannabisJohn · Jun 15, 2012

freshgardens said:
Whats up Jon, quick question for you. I am in a socal warehouse. 4 units in from the street. Inside i am running 12 lights in a 20x20 sealed room. We had 8 lights and was using a wall mount 28,000 btu and that was fine but now am upgrading and summer is here. Also the lights are aircooled. We were thinking of either a 4 ton ac unit that fits on the top of the warehouse (pros- cheaper and alot more efficient) Cons- Everyone will now see that there is an ac on the top of the building, although the unit right next to us has one we feel it will raise eyebrows. Our next option is a kwikool portable 42,000 btu system that we just put right in the room but now really cant control outside of the room. Which do you feel is bets or if you have any other suggestions that be great thanks! Fg

Go with a 4 ton split system. Still have 1 unit outside but it's only about 3 ft x 3 ft x3 ft instead of a package a/c on roof (maybe 6 ft x 4ft x 4 ft or bigger). Or could do 2-2 ton ductless mini splits. With air cooled lights you should only really need 3 ton unit (so you could get a single 3 ton ductless mini). Outside unit is quieter and smaller than either other options I mentioned.

CannabisJohn · Jun 15, 2012

evu80 said:
hey fellow farmers

I got a couple of newbie question for you guys. I'm trying to set up a window AC without using a window and I'm having a tough time keeping it cool and functioning correctly. It seems like its overheats and it stops cooling all together although its still running. I can't really afford a mini split unit at this moment so this will have to hold me over for now.

My first question is regarding the laws of cooling, if there such a thing but if would definitely help me understand how to better design my room.

Lets say there is a sealed box with the following dimensions of 10x10x10 and one side of the box you have a huge exhaust fan with the ratings of 1900 cfm and inside the box is an electric oven that's on 24/7. Now assuming this fan is consistently on as well. Will there be a point where the fan cannot exhaust anymore because it has no air to exhaust and the heat inside will just continually build up? In other words do we have to have a source of new air in order to vent out the old heated air inside this box.

hope you guys follow what Im trying to say.

If the answer is yes, in order to vent a room properly a new source of air must be introduce to keep the air flow moving, what is the proper rule of thumb for the intake volume to ensure the heat NEVER builds up inside.

I do understand but virtually impossible because no room can be sealed that well. Air will leak in small spots everywhere.

CannabisJohn · Jun 15, 2012

sox said:
How big do i need to go to cover 8k?

I assume you want a/c requirements. If your lights are air cooled then I would say 3 tons should be good. If not air cooled then get 4 tons.

Grow Room A/C

Grow Room A/C

El Cerebro

Carl Sagan

El Cerebro

is it tho

Carl Sagan

UPOC

kobebryant472

CannabisJohn

CannabisJohn

masshole61

CannabisJohn

masshole61

CannabisJohn

outwest

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freshgardens

evu80

sox

CannabisJohn

CannabisJohn

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