SolMannaFest
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Sox hit it right on with the info, glad to have him on thc to help yall out.
You could runb #6 wire two hots and one #10 ground to your garage for all your 240v lighting.
That wire would be installed in a conduit such as flex or pvc if your garage is detached.
or you could run romex 6/2 and your ok there. BUT that wont do your air conditioner so either you run another wire (depends on your air cond) to keep ur room kewl.
hb
think u might be right,, credit where credits due brothaWord HB...Im picking up what your putting down!
So I think Ill run #6 two hots and one #10 ground, under ground inside of conduit to my detached garage on a 60amp breaker.
My window AC is a 120v/11,000btu, so maybe I should run an extra 15amp/120v circuit as well? Do you agree?
P.S. Did you mean HillTopFarms and not Sox? Not that Sox isn't coming through with the goodness but HillTop defffffffinitely came through with the ill responses! Just wanna give dap's where dap's are due that's all!
P.S.S. Keep rocking HB...I know it must be difficult to stay on top of this thread but your doing a great job!
Bless up..Sol
What power source are you coming from? a dryer outlet or the panel?Hello,
I am looking for help on building a replica of this product and can not seem to find anyone cover or go over it in any way.
powerbox dpc-7500-combo-4hw
Any help would be great.
Thank you in advance. <3
So heres the deal on that set up,30A Dryer receptacle.
Would just be two 1000W lights on the 220V and an A/C on the 120v with 13 cooling amps.
<3
how about a contactor to control your wires straight from your panel to your ballast outlet, with multiple timers to activate them on the same power source of course, then if one timer fails the other one will still turn it on or off, only problem i could forsee is if your contactor screwed upI'm doing similar research. What I have found that I need is to have each circuit individually serviced. Keep a set or two of spares, that way, I'm not completely screwed if the box ever fails or needs service. The last thing I'd want is to have an 8 ballast flipbox quit on me and I'm stuck!
Also, I want to be sure the flipbox I build/purchase can handle 400v. I know the usual line voltage is closer to 250, but I'm planning ahead to get Gavita's Proline system which I understand runs their bulbs at 400v.
how about a contactor to control your wires straight from your panel to your ballast outlet, with multiple timers to activate them on the same power source of course, then if one timer fails the other one will still turn it on or off, only problem i could forsee is if your contactor screwed up
hb
i have never done that but u could , intermatic T series hardly ever failNot sure about the contactors, you would run two timers in series to accomplish the backup?
how about a contactor to control your wires straight from your panel to your ballast outlet, with multiple timers to activate them on the same power source of course, then if one timer fails the other one will still turn it on or off, only problem i could forsee is if your contactor screwed up
hb
oh i understand you now.Why would I want a contactor to control my ballast outlet? I want them on a flip- not off for 12 hours at a time... or am I not understanding you?
oh i understand you now.
i was thinking of a way to have back up timers since u were worried that a timer might fail.
not sure how to build one on a flip that way. i use intermatic timers mostly, very reliable and heavy duty.
hb
What matters most is what else is on the 120v circuit your going to plug ur ballast into. The way to check is to plug something into your outlet that u will be using, then go to the panel and flip off each breaker one at a time and see when it turns off, then try other outlets in the area and u will have an idea how its wired. If your breaker is a 15 amp breaker ur allowed 1500 watts safely, a 20 amp will get u 2000 watts, give or take a few. Either way u can run a 1000 watt, or space out ur lamps and go 2 600sI am just now upgrading my light from a little 250. i was going with the 600 but the more i read on here i am thinking about a 1k, or may a dual hood with 2 600s. My question is i live in a house built in the 70's with most of the original wiring, circuits, etc. would i need a controller or anything additional to safely run say a 1k light? thank u all my long lost brothren
I am just now upgrading my light from a little 250. i was going with the 600 but the more i read on here i am thinking about a 1k, or may a dual hood with 2 600s. My question is i live in a house built in the 70's with most of the original wiring, circuits, etc. would i need a controller or anything additional to safely run say a 1k light? thank u all my long lost brothren
Word HB...Im picking up what your putting down!
So I think Ill run #6 two hots and one #10 ground, under ground inside of conduit to my detached garage on a 60amp breaker.
My window AC is a 120v/11,000btu, so maybe I should run an extra 15amp/120v circuit as well? Do you agree?
P.S. Did you mean HillTopFarms and not Sox? Not that Sox isn't coming through with the goodness but HillTop defffffffinitely came through with the ill responses! Just wanna give dap's where dap's are due that's all!
P.S.S. Keep rocking HB...I know it must be difficult to stay on top of this thread but your doing a great job!
Bless up..Sol
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