Grow Room Electrical

[SolMannaFest]

Sox hit it right on with the info, glad to have him on thc to help yall out.
You could runb #6 wire two hots and one #10 ground to your garage for all your 240v lighting.
That wire would be installed in a conduit such as flex or pvc if your garage is detached.
or you could run romex 6/2 and your ok there. BUT that wont do your air conditioner so either you run another wire (depends on your air cond) to keep ur room kewl.
hb

Word HB...Im picking up what your putting down!
So I think Ill run #6 two hots and one #10 ground, under ground inside of conduit to my detached garage on a 60amp breaker.

My window AC is a 120v/11,000btu, so maybe I should run an extra 15amp/120v circuit as well? Do you agree?

P.S. Did you mean HillTopFarms and not Sox? Not that Sox isn't coming through with the goodness but HillTop defffffffinitely came through with the ill responses! Just wanna give dap's where dap's are due that's all!

P.S.S. Keep rocking HB...I know it must be difficult to stay on top of this thread but your doing a great job!

Bless up..Sol

 

[hiboy]

Word HB...Im picking up what your putting down!
So I think Ill run #6 two hots and one #10 ground, under ground inside of conduit to my detached garage on a 60amp breaker.

My window AC is a 120v/11,000btu, so maybe I should run an extra 15amp/120v circuit as well? Do you agree?

P.S. Did you mean HillTopFarms and not Sox? Not that Sox isn't coming through with the goodness but HillTop defffffffinitely came through with the ill responses! Just wanna give dap's where dap's are due that's all!

P.S.S. Keep rocking HB...I know it must be difficult to stay on top of this thread but your doing a great job!

Bless up..Sol

think u might be right,, credit where credits due brotha
yes also run a #12 black, red and white with your #6 wire. this will give u a spare circuit for 120v, one neutral will cover both hots,, the black and red. remember when installing your 120v breakers that when u share the neutral, you must put the black and red on opposite phases, so to make it easy put one right on top of the other in the panel, you cannot put them on the same hot bus,
hb

 

[Hilltopfarms]

Thanks for the props guys!
I'm just glad the farm is here so I can help out people the way i've been helped to get where I am today
pay it forward, good in good out

 

[SmokeyMcGreen]

Hello,
I am looking for help on building a replica of this product and can not seem to find anyone cover or go over it in any way.

powerbox dpc-7500-combo-4hw


Any help would be great.
Thank you in advance. <3

 

[hiboy]

Hello,
I am looking for help on building a replica of this product and can not seem to find anyone cover or go over it in any way.

powerbox dpc-7500-combo-4hw


Any help would be great.
Thank you in advance. <3

What power source are you coming from? a dryer outlet or the panel?
what do you want to power= how many watts?
what else do you want to power when your lights turn on= fan?
hb

 

[Edward Trogden]

30A Dryer receptacle.
Would just be two 1000W lights on the 220V and an A/C on the 120v with 13 cooling amps.
<3

 

[ttystikk]

I'm doing similar research. What I have found that I need is to have each circuit individually serviced. Keep a set or two of spares, that way, I'm not completely screwed if the box ever fails or needs service. The last thing I'd want is to have an 8 ballast flipbox quit on me and I'm stuck!

Also, I want to be sure the flipbox I build/purchase can handle 400v. I know the usual line voltage is closer to 250, but I'm planning ahead to get Gavita's Proline system which I understand runs their bulbs at 400v.

 

[SmokeyMcGreen]

30A Dryer receptacle.
Would just be two 1000W lights on the 220V and an A/C on the 120v with 13 cooling amps.
<3

 

[hiboy]

30A Dryer receptacle.
Would just be two 1000W lights on the 220V and an A/C on the 120v with 13 cooling amps.
<3

So heres the deal on that set up,
your dryer outlet is 3 prong meaning hot hot ground. there is no true neutral there, but those premade systems you buy plug right into the outlet and poof, theres a neutral. it works because the neutral and ground are terminated at the same buss bar in the main panel, but being an electrician this is not legal in my field. BUt its still done so what do ya do.
Is there a reason you dont want to buy that set up, youll probably save about half of your money by doing it yourself, but if your not skilled in electrical it might be better to buy it
v
s
to
build one... but if you still wana go for it..................
i would first purchase an intermatic T104 timeclock that would then control two 240v outlets, then the question is how do you install a 20 amp outlet on a 30 amp line which is your dryer plug. well the right way to do it would be to install an inline fuse rated at 20 amps, im wondering how those systems do it. not to legal if i opened one up.
timer cost is 65
outlets, boxes, box rings, fitting, dryer cord and clamp,
probably around 75,
so your def. under 200 bucks,
i can go into more detail if your needing it
hb

 

[hiboy]

I'm doing similar research. What I have found that I need is to have each circuit individually serviced. Keep a set or two of spares, that way, I'm not completely screwed if the box ever fails or needs service. The last thing I'd want is to have an 8 ballast flipbox quit on me and I'm stuck!

Also, I want to be sure the flipbox I build/purchase can handle 400v. I know the usual line voltage is closer to 250, but I'm planning ahead to get Gavita's Proline system which I understand runs their bulbs at 400v.

how about a contactor to control your wires straight from your panel to your ballast outlet, with multiple timers to activate them on the same power source of course, then if one timer fails the other one will still turn it on or off, only problem i could forsee is if your contactor screwed up
hb

 

[SmokeyMcGreen]

Hmmmm...I will probably buy one then. I have some experience building such panels from a past job building steam generator control systems but feeling kind of lazy. I will toss you some pictures of the inside once I get it for the lols.
Appreciate the time and help.
Much love.

 

[ttystikk]

how about a contactor to control your wires straight from your panel to your ballast outlet, with multiple timers to activate them on the same power source of course, then if one timer fails the other one will still turn it on or off, only problem i could forsee is if your contactor screwed up
hb

Not sure about the contactors, you would run two timers in series to accomplish the backup?

 

[hiboy]

Not sure about the contactors, you would run two timers in series to accomplish the backup?

i have never done that but u could , intermatic T series hardly ever fail
hb

 

[ttystikk]

how about a contactor to control your wires straight from your panel to your ballast outlet, with multiple timers to activate them on the same power source of course, then if one timer fails the other one will still turn it on or off, only problem i could forsee is if your contactor screwed up
hb

Why would I want a contactor to control my ballast outlet? I want them on a flip- not off for 12 hours at a time... or am I not understanding you?

 

[hiboy]

Why would I want a contactor to control my ballast outlet? I want them on a flip- not off for 12 hours at a time... or am I not understanding you?

oh i understand you now.
i was thinking of a way to have back up timers since u were worried that a timer might fail.
not sure how to build one on a flip that way. i use intermatic timers mostly, very reliable and heavy duty.
hb

 

[ttystikk]

oh i understand you now.
i was thinking of a way to have back up timers since u were worried that a timer might fail.
not sure how to build one on a flip that way. i use intermatic timers mostly, very reliable and heavy duty.
hb

What I want is to build my own flipbox- actually, up to a dozen of the, all using the same parts, so if one fails for any reason I can install the spares and be back up and running while I go source more spares.

This flipbox needs to do the same thing as the widely available boxes do; operate on a trigger cord, flip the output of ballasts back and forth between two fixtures. The only differences between what I want to build and those that are commerically available are A. individual circuits so one failure doesn't mean I have to return the whole damn multicircuit flipbox, and B. for it to handle 400v as opposed to the usual 250. This last may be moot, since its likely that higher voltage with similar current would be easier than lower voltage with the same current.

 

[PokaToka]

I am just now upgrading my light from a little 250. i was going with the 600 but the more i read on here i am thinking about a 1k, or may a dual hood with 2 600s. My question is i live in a house built in the 70's with most of the original wiring, circuits, etc. would i need a controller or anything additional to safely run say a 1k light? thank u all my long lost brothren

 

[hiboy]

I am just now upgrading my light from a little 250. i was going with the 600 but the more i read on here i am thinking about a 1k, or may a dual hood with 2 600s. My question is i live in a house built in the 70's with most of the original wiring, circuits, etc. would i need a controller or anything additional to safely run say a 1k light? thank u all my long lost brothren

What matters most is what else is on the 120v circuit your going to plug ur ballast into. The way to check is to plug something into your outlet that u will be using, then go to the panel and flip off each breaker one at a time and see when it turns off, then try other outlets in the area and u will have an idea how its wired. If your breaker is a 15 amp breaker ur allowed 1500 watts safely, a 20 amp will get u 2000 watts, give or take a few. Either way u can run a 1000 watt, or space out ur lamps and go 2 600s

hb

 

[ttystikk]

I am just now upgrading my light from a little 250. i was going with the 600 but the more i read on here i am thinking about a 1k, or may a dual hood with 2 600s. My question is i live in a house built in the 70's with most of the original wiring, circuits, etc. would i need a controller or anything additional to safely run say a 1k light? thank u all my long lost brothren

I feel the need to address your choice of lighting for a moment, aside from the wiring aspect. A higher wattage light will do just as advertised, but the bigger you go the more you'll need to pay attention to everything that can go wrong; overheating, bleaching, hot spots, etc etc. In your shoes, I would carefully assess my growing space and then fill it with the smallest wattage lighting that makes sense. I've seen even big grows done very well with 400w lighting because they paid careful attention to light heights and spacing. They had fewer troubles with excess heat and hot spots and dark corners, too. Bigger is only better if you can put it to good use.

Also, you can get 250 and 400w MH and HPS bulbs at Home DePot- but nothing bigger- and that price jump will hurt!

 

[sox]

Word HB...Im picking up what your putting down!
So I think Ill run #6 two hots and one #10 ground, under ground inside of conduit to my detached garage on a 60amp breaker.

My window AC is a 120v/11,000btu, so maybe I should run an extra 15amp/120v circuit as well? Do you agree?

P.S. Did you mean HillTopFarms and not Sox? Not that Sox isn't coming through with the goodness but HillTop defffffffinitely came through with the ill responses! Just wanna give dap's where dap's are due that's all!

P.S.S. Keep rocking HB...I know it must be difficult to stay on top of this thread but your doing a great job!

Bless up..Sol

lol, i got NO good info when it comes to this electrical stuff..im like a caveman!
HillTop was the one, not me....thanks though;)