I've been thinking on it and well..if the other place had a 4 prong and it was in the same country..you should have no problem finding a 4 prong receptacle. BUT..you may have to rewire the whole circuit. 3-wire with ground is used on the 4 prong and 2-wire with ground is used on the 3-prong. So unless you take the receptacle head off and find a miracle that they used 3-wire with ground and just capped off the white wire with a wire-nut in there...you've got bigger issues. In order to utilize that 120v portion of your controller, you need to open the panel and re-wire using 3-wire with ground..all the way to a new receptacle. Panel work is pretty scary especially if you don't have a service shut off up the line away from the box where you can kill all power coming in. In the USA we switched all residential code to having to install all 3-wire with ground (4 prong) in all new work. Not sure about where you are??
It would be very simple to call an electrician and have this work done..if it is an option to have 4-prong 220v at all in your area, but I cannot recommend you do this type of work yourself..especially with limited experience. I had to be apprentice to several panel jobs before I felt confident enough to even dare working on one..it's quite a thrill let me tell you.
If you find out that you are stuck with 2 wire grounded (3 prong)...you will need to change the whip like PB says and eliminate your use of the 120v. There is no other option with limited wire...it's easy to go from 4 prong to 3 prong, but impossible to go the other way. Do not think of bonding your Neutral white with green ground wire or you compromise your ground which is very dangerous. Sorry for the bad news. First turn off the 30 amp dryer breaker, then open up the receptacle and see what you have. Then go from there.

HB,
Bout to start a new place....and each room has a "three phase" 200amp panel. I believe its 208v is in there.
I set up everything fairly normal except, I rewire all my ballasts to the 208v lead, correct?
This three phase doesnt seem like there are many options for upgrades or new panels?

Is it possible to add sub panels that would be 24o, so I can run my mini split a/c's? Or will I need to replace them with three phase unit/s? I hate to replace these since I paid a grand each couple years back, but If I have to I will.

Any other info or ideas you have in general, I appreciate. I read thru here and didnt see much on this...

hogan400 said:

HB,
Bout to start a new place....and each room has a "three phase" 200amp panel. I believe its 208v is in there.
I set up everything fairly normal except, I rewire all my ballasts to the 208v lead, correct?
This three phase doesnt seem like there are many options for upgrades or new panels?

Is it possible to add sub panels that would be 24o, so I can run my mini split a/c's? Or will I need to replace them with three phase unit/s? I hate to replace these since I paid a grand each couple years back, but If I have to I will.

Any other info or ideas you have in general, I appreciate. I read thru here and didnt see much on this...

Click to expand...

Test it.
277 480?
Commercial space or residential?

Commercial, Very lg warehouse new commercial warehouse park.
Says on the main breaker and written on the panel as well, 208v, 200 amp three phase.
I will be back in Saturday working and snap a pic of each panel in case I am missing something. I have good electrical experience, just never messed w three phase ya know..

hogan400 said:

Commercial, Very lg warehouse new commercial warehouse park.
Says on the main breaker and written on the panel as well, 208v, 200 amp three phase.
I will be back in Saturday working and snap a pic of each panel in case I am missing something. I have good electrical experience, just never messed w three phase ya know..

Click to expand...

NP, grab your multimeter. IBEW electrician. See if I can give you a hand.

Delerium, thanks bud.
I'll test it and get back on here Sat eve.
I noticed my Sunlight Helios 17, 24 light panel that's 120/240v may not work on 208v either... Unless I use only 110 specifically? However, 110 I will use twice as many amps... 200 amps seems not enough all of a sudden. hahaha

Im trying to run 24 overheads with 110000,btu ac 60 amp. I know Im close. I believe my landlord is going to upgrade us as well. Either upgrade to a 400 amp panel or add a second 200 amp. Then I'll go vert unless I'm missing some hidden secret about three phase and 110..
I'll test that voltage and get back at ya Saturday so you can better guide me, thanks much.

I have seen boxes for sale that are supposed to trim about 5 -15 % off your usage by hooking it up . have you seen thse things , and is it possibleto diy ?

For anyone wondering about 208 or 240 three-phase, some cogent info here, post #48: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/3-phase-power-questions-348783/index5.html

seaslug said:

For anyone wondering about 208 or 240 three-phase, some cogent info here, post #48: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/3-phase-power-questions-348783/index5.html

Click to expand...

http://forums.mikeholt.com
Mike Holt is the man

jiggaboojones said:

I have seen boxes for sale that are supposed to trim about 5 -15 % off your usage by hooking it up . have you seen thse things , and is it possibleto diy ?

Click to expand...

Snake Oil jigga, just snake oil.

oregonized said:

Uploaded my fan schematic for Post # 464, both fans are acting like one when pot is adjusted. I would like to separate my interior fan from the exhaust fan. The pot only will control my interior fan and not the exhaust.

Thanks. bump

Click to expand...

bump for ya :)

hogan400 said:

HB,
Bout to start a new place....and each room has a "three phase" 200amp panel. I believe its 208v is in there.
I set up everything fairly normal except, I rewire all my ballasts to the 208v lead, correct?
This three phase doesnt seem like there are many options for upgrades or new panels?

Is it possible to add sub panels that would be 24o, so I can run my mini split a/c's? Or will I need to replace them with three phase unit/s? I hate to replace these since I paid a grand each couple years back, but If I have to I will.

Any other info or ideas you have in general, I appreciate. I read thru here and didnt see much on this...

Click to expand...

Let Delerium help you figure out exactly what you have..be it 208y 120 or what have you. You are not stuck with 208v..you can easily get close enough to 240v with a buck-boost transformer..I think your max load is still close for comfort though. Good luck with it..sounds like a fun project.

Delerium said:

http://forums.mikeholt.com
Mike Holt is the man

Click to expand...

I think that was the forum I got the most info from when I planned to step down 240 to 120 in my grow room. I've got some nice new surplus transformers off ebay but decided to run two dedicated circuits instead.

Shamus said:

bump for ya :)

Click to expand...

Shamus thanks brotha! It is places and people like you that make this community!

I did figure out my problem. Schematic included, I was all crossed up. [Hint: No oil hits /schematic drawing at the same time :)]

I have found that 1k Potentiometers with a 1A load, handle 12v fans the easiest. Pots make simply voltage / speed controllers even though they get a tad warm.

Next is to add the pot to a real circuit based on a Digital Voltage Controller, so I can set all my fans.

I switched to LED's and don't have the heat and downsizing to DC on the fans, has helped soak up even less power.

Delerium,
I measured across the three phase hots and it showed 208, so its def 208v.

I was instructed the breakers are the same since the say 120/240, even though they conduct at 208v.
I have several light boxes I can use. Titan "Helios 10" to be exact, with a relay built in and separate timer throw cord.
I was told to use these as normal, but re-wire my magnetic ballasts to 208v jumper. The light boxes will simply conduct at 208v because that's whats transferring thru them when the contact switches. Is this true? Seems pretty basic.

I was also told to use the light boxes without built in timers since those cheap built in timers would burn up. Also the only true way to set this up is to use 208v spa timers with 20 amp circuits and run only 3 ballasts per timer. Thats a grip of timers... I would run my 24 light panel but the required 150amp breaker doesn't meet code since my panel isn't 400 or 600 amp panel. You follow me?

I was in the crawl space all afternoon/evening. I should take my code book out of storage, had water damage this winter so half the house is packed up and construction going on.
I don't see why you can't use the 150a breaker for the Helios 17 you own. 150a breaker in a 200a panel. I'd have to see if their is a code violation there somewhere, you might be able to use a 175a breaker. I'd have to locate my code book or hit up mike holt forum. Concern would be not having enough amps for the A/c's, fans, other equipment. It will be tight. @208v 1k watts is just under 5amps 4.8a to be exact times 24 =115 amps leaves you with 45amps left over @ 80%.
Grab the model numbers for the ac, some mini's will work 208-240v CannabisJohn is a HVAC installer. First contractor I worked for was a HVAC co when I was an apprentice, 20 years ago, he does it right now.
Do you already own the Helios 10's?
I use the timers similar to what you mentioned.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-7-Day...r-On-Off-Per-Day-15136/202788241?N=5yc1vZc334
40amp digital, mechanicals are fine but I like the digital clock option is all. You should be able to get 6 1k's on each with #8 wire, times 4 is your 24.
Caveat is you have to do all the splicing, pig tailing the receptacles and build the individual boxes which will probably in the long run after time and material might be easier to just use the Helios...
But then your going to have to get extension cords from your ballasts to most of your reflectors because that unit is going to be centrally located. Gets all convoluted.
I prefer using the timers as a means of disconnect, my panel is located on another floor. Being able to turn off certain banks during cropping or whatever, maybe your not going to have anything in a certain area and instead of unplugging the cords from the controller you just kick off the timer in that locale. All personal preference in that regard. I pull line wire to the timer then run out to where my receptacles are located for the ballasts then to the moguls/reflectors. The best are the epaps or gavitas one plug to the receptacle, easiest and cleanest instal but the lamps are horizontal, not my personal fav, I prefer verts.
I'll be around today, trimming and sterilizing UC's.
I hope this helps, and 208v on the magnetics yes. Trying to scroll back up reply to what you were asking.
Later

How easy is it to swap out a 15 amp fuse for 25 amp fuse can you DIY or should you hire an electrician.

Frostynugman said:

How easy is it to swap out a 15 amp fuse for 25 amp fuse can you DIY or should you hire an electrician.

Click to expand...

Don't do it..the 15 amp is wired with #14 wire. You would need to re-wire the circuits with bigger wire or risk fire.

So hire someone to do it? is it even possible

If you own the house..I would consider getting your panel upgraded. That is the next logical step..not that fuses are unsafe, but usually only about 60 amps total..which limits your use. Often I see a service split into several sub-panels and fuse boxes..because they started with a fuse box, but had to increase as their needs grew. Which is what you could do, add a subpanel to suit your needs. Or like I was suggesting, get a panel upgrade. Depending on the electrician and the work to be done (new wire runs, receptacles) and the area you live in, it could be from $1500-$2500. I know a guy that will do it on the side for $600..but that's without a permit and not running any new wire. When you do panel upgrades, the power company requires an inspection..mostly to make sure you have a correct meter and that the service wires coming from the pole to your house are correct.
If you cannot afford a new panel..then a subpanel will get you where you need to be..but a qualified electrician needs to have a look at your service coming in to make sure the new load can be handled. Then you will have to run new wire to the area you will need it.
One other alternative might be to use your dryer or stove circuits to run more lights..it can be a sacrifice and a hassle though.