Bombnes
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Well that fukn sux monkey ballz! Thought Powerbox was supported better than that, Bangarang. Thanks for letting us know.I just had a powerbox 1200D burn up. The second hot (red) wire appeared to have came loose and arched inside of the box. Everything on that contacter/relay melted and there are char marks inside the box. I contacted a the hydro shop i purchased it from and they said that this is a common problem. It appears as if the wire just melted right off the contactor and the breaker didnt even pop. To top it all off Powerbox doesnt answer phone calls or return them.
What is another company or custom built light box that is reputable and can be supported?
I just had a powerbox 1200D burn up. The second hot (red) wire appeared to have came loose and arched inside of the box. Everything on that contacter/relay melted and there are char marks inside the box. I contacted a the hydro shop i purchased it from and they said that this is a common problem. It appears as if the wire just melted right off the contactor and the breaker didnt even pop. To top it all off Powerbox doesnt answer phone calls or return them.
What is another company or custom built light box that is reputable and can be supported?
Jeff is a fucking retard and powerbox is a joke. Just find a qualified electrician and have them build a CEC or NEC compliant controller, can you imagine if your location caught on fire and burned to the ground or someone inside injured or died as a result.
Well I didn't like reading that at all about Powerbox, I just brought home a 15000 today, planned on having it installed tomorrow. Now I think if I do, I'll have my electrician open it up and check the internal connections.
As I'm reading over the directions and making a shopping list for HD in the a.m., I noticed something that seemed odd, maybe I just don't understand, but because the shop where I bought it couldn't answer my question, and Jeff took an extended holiday until Monday, maybe one of you electricians can explain this:
The directions explain that if you are installing the 60 Amp box, you should use an 80 Amp breaker because standard breakers are rated at 80% for continuous load. I get that, they also say that you are to use 4 gauge wire to connect it to the breaker, I get that, what I don't get is why the pigtail on my 60 Amp box is only 6 gauge! Why would I run 4 gauge from my sub panel to a junction box, just to connect it to 6 gauge on the other side? Shouldn't my pigtail have been made of 4 gauge?
Thanks!!
Thanks Billy, I know shit happens, I just try to do everything I can to make sure it doesn't happen to me ;)
After working myself up that I might have made a poor equipment choice, I decided to medicate....so I'm feeling pretty :cool: right now....Can you please clarify -
Are you saying the 6 AWG pigtail will be fine to connect to the junction box wired with 4 AWG to the sub, OR that its ok to use 6 AWG on the 80 Amp breaker from sub panel to junction box?
PB will be running 10 lights (8 1k and 2 600's) + a couple 8" fans
every timer has a max watt rating written on the back...usually about 1000w-1500w..I would pay close attention to that. A 15amp wall circuit will let you run 1440 watts safely..figure out if those receptacles are on the same circuit..check other rooms to see what's on that circuit as well. Then add all that shit up and see.So basically I Am going to run 2 - 600w Digital Ballasts, 2 - 4" (i forgot exactly what i have right now) CFM Fans, and run them either Both from One Heavy Duty Timer from Lowe's/Home Depot, or should i just run each pair in one Timer? Or is this still too much? Also... planning on using 7 - (6 x 23w CFLs) Grow Containers with Computer fans in each, and like 4 - (4 x 23w CFLs) Mother/Clone Chambers, All running off of the Three Main Wall Outlets in the room. Is this fine or too much? Planning on using a total of AT Least 2 Timers, probably 3. Unless you think i should do more? i Did the Grow Containers all 11 for the past couple years just running off 2 Timers. i Just don't want to risk Anything.!
20 amp is plenty..maybe put wiring in some flexible metal conduit to be on the safe sideok so im relatively new to all this i have a great base of knowledge but not in the electrical dept. i just moved into a nice 2 level condo and i want to use an upstairs room for this. i have old fuses in the house a fusebox with 15 and 20 amp fuses so i know its out of the question BUT there was a second box installed not long ago and it has breakers to run the dryer and a roof warmer. the roof warmer has a 20 amp breaker and the dryer i think is running 2 30s side by side. i didnt want to mess with the dryer but the roof warmer is expendable. if i was running just one 1000 watt hps on a wire ran from the roof warmer breaker to the outlet to plug in the light is that safe? im going to buy good wire and i mean the correct wire for the amps. i know the light is like almost 9 amps at power up im just assuming the 20 amp breaker will be safe while its running. also i might have to run the wire under carpet to conceal it im also assuming that if i have good gauge wire it wont pose an issue. any input would be greatly appreciated i cant seem to find anyone with this similar situation,
20 amp is plenty..maybe put wiring in some flexible metal conduit to be on the safe side
The thing is..nothing really wrong with fuse boxes..bottom line..they work. But at most these boxes are only 60 amps. Alot of times subpanels will be added to make for additonal room..i.e. 220 dryers..220 ac's etc. IMVHO these should be upgraded to a flipper-type circuit panel.thx so much for the reply !
ok so that sounds like a safe way to do this ? if it already exists and i just change the wires and put a plug on it all proper of course i shouldnt have any issues ? would the dryer pose an issue if running at the same time ? its on its own breaker but in the same box. id assume since its already hooked up that way and runs together it shouldnt be any different right ?
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