sixstring said:

and from experience i would not run those bigass cfl'z in the horizontal position because it will sag and then fail.i did one like that in a hood and it took about 3 weeks for it to sag and then break/stop working.

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sixstring said:

why are you planning so many t5 for veg ? im using 1/3 that in t5 to feed a 12kw flower room and yours is only 10.8 kw.

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hiboy said:

Post any questions for electrical advice here.
hb

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Big JAE said:

Hello, I have some quick questions. To start I work on and repair anything electronic for a living and installed a new electrical water heater in place of the old one which was wired wrong. The old water heater was supposed to be connected to a 240 (according to label on it) but the people who lived here before me had a single 20 amp 120 wire going to it. A plumber came over, gave estimate, I didn't have half that in the bank, decided to do it myself. I drained and removed old water heater & then discovered the single 120 20 amp wire using multi meter. I went to Home Depot and bought 20ft of 12/3 romex indoor / outdoor wire planning on not running conduit. I ended up running 1 inch conduit with the romex inside running directly to water heater wired to its connector with wire nuts. Then I wired in the 12/3 to a dual pole 30 amp breaker. The dual element water heater has ran perfect and my electrical bill has dropped from not having the wrongly connected water heater from 1986 connected. I explain so you know I'm capable of running wires and safely connecting them.

My Grow room equipment & plan:
As described above I still have the wire ran through the wall the old water heater was connected to. What I want to do is safely run two 1000 watt mh/hps lights, both of which are identical and have new digital ballasts. I then have two a 1200 GPH water pump for the RDWC system, 1137 LPH air pump to run the four 9" disc diffusers one in each container, two 6' inline fans 440 CFM each w speed controllers, two inline plastic bladed booster fans, for exhausting heat and keeping room temp where I want it, one small 6 inch clip fan and one 16" oscillating fan for plants. I planned on mounting the two ballast right next to the room exhaust up near where the lights will be (heat rises) and putting intake close to floor.

My Actual Question:
Now I have the one free wire to connect a 15 amp breaker but was wondering if it would make any difference if I ran another 30 amp breaker and ran the lights on 240? Can I use the timers that came with my lights on a 240? Can you please tell me how you would wire this up so it's safe? I have 5 open spots on panels and very limited money as I've spent a lot already. The cheapest method is best but obviously I want safe. The room I'm using only has one 120 plug and its combined with the light switch. I don't want to use it.

Thanks for any help

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RageKage said:

I just got a quote from an electrician to wire in a mini split to a sub panel and wire my grow room.

The compressor will be about a 15' run to the panel. I will be physically installing the air handler and compressor. He would just install the high voltage wire and low voltage from handler to compressor. He said 350 for just the mini. Is that a good price?

And then we discussed him wireing up my room, a 12x15x12. I'm still framing it out so we couldn't go over exactly how many outlets i wanted. But it would be a separate breaker for my light controller and then maybe 1 or 2 other circuits for the miscellaneous outlets. I told him i want a lot of outlets and room for expansion. He said it could be 900 -1500, that includes mini split. Does that sound right?

Btw the sub panel is hooked into an 80 amp breaker so he said that will handle everything in need.

Any input is appreciated.

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praxis said:

I have a question, any advice would be helpful. I hope this is the right place to post. First of all, one of the lights I have is a 240 watt 1000 watt nanolux de and I'm trying to find out if I can keep the current wiring. It is 10/3 wire connected to a 30amp single pole breaker in a 100 amp sub panel. Could I just change the single pole 30amp breaker to a double 30 amp breaker and keep the 10-3 romex wire?? The outlet in the wall is for a 120 and would need to be changed to 240 as well. Does that sound like it would work or am I going to burn down the place or worst get fried? Hopefully this makes sense. I know the obvious is to hire electrician but I'm confident doing this on my own if thats all I have to do then I will certainly call one or get an orion 1 from titan cont. The light is the only thing that will be running off this outlet/breaker. I really would appreciate some feedback. Thanks.

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GrowGod said:

I think u should get some help from an electrician or at least a grower that's done it before. Or you can do it yourself,but I would run a line rated for 30amps.If your only running 1 ballast just get a new one that is ready for 120v.

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editon69 said:

my discomfort is with a sealed room at 50 to 65 % humidity with my sub panel installed inside of the room.
is this going to be a fire hazard or I will be ok with it?
sorry I'm paranoid and always try to avoid any fire hazard.

Thank you and happy growing

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praxis said:

Hey edition69, I literally just had a licensed electrician hook up my grow room and he installed the sub panel in the grow room, fully aware of what I was doing in this room. While he was there he did not mention anything about humidity. However, he did do some GFCI breakers in the box because of the distance my grow room is to the pool. Apparently something to do with building code in my area. Didn't say anything about my giant reservoir which is in the room too. Anyway the humidity in my grow room has been over 60% lately (not ideal). I hope this helps and someone else can give you some assurance or advice too.

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