Grow Room Electrical

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shortnWide

31
8
and from experience i would not run those bigass cfl'z in the horizontal position because it will sag and then fail.i did one like that in a hood and it took about 3 weeks for it to sag and then break/stop working.


What do you mean cfl in horizontal?
 
S

shortnWide

31
8
why are you planning so many t5 for veg ? im using 1/3 that in t5 to feed a 12kw flower room and yours is only 10.8 kw.


The T5's will cover moms, babies and main vegging. I make double the clones I need and slowly throw out the unfit. I'll throw out till the first weeks of bloom sometimes. Idk if that would help to the amount of T5's? Moms are 4' - 5' tall and very round. Two 4' clone tables. Vegging are 1' - 3' tall. I start by topping when young then super crop them all the way till "go time". I know super cropping makes them take up room.
I would love to be able to cut down on the T5's. I just don't know how I could get away with less?
 
gorwterror

gorwterror

6
1
Hello friends from around the World.
Can you help me with one electrical problem? So, I'm planing to set up 8x600W/220V and 2 fans also on 220V in a grow room, with Clima Control System. Unfortunately I don't know how to connect the ClimaControlSystem DCC15A, with the fuses, i couldn't found and the manual for this system on the net.

My question is, do I need to connect DCC15A with the fuses(and how), and use the paladin 172 421pro timer or it can work separately (connecting the DCC15A to the fuses but without using the paladin 172 421pro timer)?
Can DCC15A control all the 8x600W lights or I can connect only the 2 fans that I have?

I will appreciate any help with this.
Best regards.
 
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Big JAE

Big JAE

37
8
Post any questions for electrical advice here.
hb

Hello, I have some quick questions. To start I work on and repair anything electronic for a living and installed a new electrical water heater in place of the old one which was wired wrong. The old water heater was supposed to be connected to a 240 (according to label on it) but the people who lived here before me had a single 20 amp 120 wire going to it. A plumber came over, gave estimate, I didn't have half that in the bank, decided to do it myself. I drained and removed old water heater & then discovered the single 120 20 amp wire using multi meter. I went to Home Depot and bought 20ft of 12/3 romex indoor / outdoor wire planning on not running conduit. I ended up running 1 inch conduit with the romex inside running directly to water heater wired to its connector with wire nuts. Then I wired in the 12/3 to a dual pole 30 amp breaker. The dual element water heater has ran perfect and my electrical bill has dropped from not having the wrongly connected water heater from 1986 connected. I explain so you know I'm capable of running wires and safely connecting them.

My Grow room equipment & plan:
As described above I still have the wire ran through the wall the old water heater was connected to. What I want to do is safely run two 1000 watt mh/hps lights, both of which are identical and have new digital ballasts. I then have two a 1200 GPH water pump for the RDWC system, 1137 LPH air pump to run the four 9" disc diffusers one in each container, two 6' inline fans 440 CFM each w speed controllers, two inline plastic bladed booster fans, for exhausting heat and keeping room temp where I want it, one small 6 inch clip fan and one 16" oscillating fan for plants. I planned on mounting the two ballast right next to the room exhaust up near where the lights will be (heat rises) and putting intake close to floor.

My Actual Question:
Now I have the one free wire to connect a 15 amp breaker but was wondering if it would make any difference if I ran another 30 amp breaker and ran the lights on 240? Can I use the timers that came with my lights on a 240? Can you please tell me how you would wire this up so it's safe? I have 5 open spots on panels and very limited money as I've spent a lot already. The cheapest method is best but obviously I want safe. The room I'm using only has one 120 plug and its combined with the light switch. I don't want to use it.

Thanks for any help
 
Dr.stickerdick

Dr.stickerdick

176
28
Hello, I have some quick questions. To start I work on and repair anything electronic for a living and installed a new electrical water heater in place of the old one which was wired wrong. The old water heater was supposed to be connected to a 240 (according to label on it) but the people who lived here before me had a single 20 amp 120 wire going to it. A plumber came over, gave estimate, I didn't have half that in the bank, decided to do it myself. I drained and removed old water heater & then discovered the single 120 20 amp wire using multi meter. I went to Home Depot and bought 20ft of 12/3 romex indoor / outdoor wire planning on not running conduit. I ended up running 1 inch conduit with the romex inside running directly to water heater wired to its connector with wire nuts. Then I wired in the 12/3 to a dual pole 30 amp breaker. The dual element water heater has ran perfect and my electrical bill has dropped from not having the wrongly connected water heater from 1986 connected. I explain so you know I'm capable of running wires and safely connecting them.

My Grow room equipment & plan:
As described above I still have the wire ran through the wall the old water heater was connected to. What I want to do is safely run two 1000 watt mh/hps lights, both of which are identical and have new digital ballasts. I then have two a 1200 GPH water pump for the RDWC system, 1137 LPH air pump to run the four 9" disc diffusers one in each container, two 6' inline fans 440 CFM each w speed controllers, two inline plastic bladed booster fans, for exhausting heat and keeping room temp where I want it, one small 6 inch clip fan and one 16" oscillating fan for plants. I planned on mounting the two ballast right next to the room exhaust up near where the lights will be (heat rises) and putting intake close to floor.

My Actual Question:
Now I have the one free wire to connect a 15 amp breaker but was wondering if it would make any difference if I ran another 30 amp breaker and ran the lights on 240? Can I use the timers that came with my lights on a 240? Can you please tell me how you would wire this up so it's safe? I have 5 open spots on panels and very limited money as I've spent a lot already. The cheapest method is best but obviously I want safe. The room I'm using only has one 120 plug and its combined with the light switch. I don't want to use it.

Thanks for any help
why did you use 12 / 3 ?
 
S

Seed Buyer

665
63
I have never seen a 240 volt water heater that was not on 10 guage wire
 
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praxis

14
13
I apologize in advance for a more than likely dumb question. First of all, one of the lights I have is a 240 watt 1000 watt nanolux de and I'm trying to find out if I can keep the current wiring. It is 10/3 wire connected to a 30amp breaker in a 100 amp sub panel. The socket in the wall is not the right size obviously and would need to be changed but as far as the wiring and breaker goes, would that work? Hopefully this makes sense. I appreciate any feedback, be it positive or negative, haha Thanks.
 
R

RageKage

9
3
I just got a quote from an electrician to wire in a mini split to a sub panel and wire my grow room.

The compressor will be about a 15' run to the panel. I will be physically installing the air handler and compressor. He would just install the high voltage wire and low voltage from handler to compressor. He said 350 for just the mini. Is that a good price?

And then we discussed him wireing up my room, a 12x15x12. I'm still framing it out so we couldn't go over exactly how many outlets i wanted. But it would be a separate breaker for my light controller and then maybe 1 or 2 other circuits for the miscellaneous outlets. I told him i want a lot of outlets and room for expansion. He said it could be 900 -1500, that includes mini split. Does that sound right?

Btw the sub panel is hooked into an 80 amp breaker so he said that will handle everything in need.

Any input is appreciated.
 
sixstring

sixstring

7,079
313
3600 is the max watts but you only want to use 80% of that so 2880w on a 30 amp @ 120v to run safe
 
sixstring

sixstring

7,079
313
I just got a quote from an electrician to wire in a mini split to a sub panel and wire my grow room.

The compressor will be about a 15' run to the panel. I will be physically installing the air handler and compressor. He would just install the high voltage wire and low voltage from handler to compressor. He said 350 for just the mini. Is that a good price?

And then we discussed him wireing up my room, a 12x15x12. I'm still framing it out so we couldn't go over exactly how many outlets i wanted. But it would be a separate breaker for my light controller and then maybe 1 or 2 other circuits for the miscellaneous outlets. I told him i want a lot of outlets and room for expansion. He said it could be 900 -1500, that includes mini split. Does that sound right?

Btw the sub panel is hooked into an 80 amp breaker so he said that will handle everything in need.

Any input is appreciated.

those are decent prices for a licensed guy to do the work.
 
P

praxis

14
13
I have a question, any advice would be helpful. I hope this is the right place to post. First of all, one of the lights I have is a 240 watt 1000 watt nanolux de and I'm trying to find out if I can keep the current wiring. It is 10/3 wire connected to a 30amp single pole breaker in a 100 amp sub panel. Could I just change the single pole 30amp breaker to a double 30 amp breaker and keep the 10-3 romex wire?? The outlet in the wall is for a 120 and would need to be changed to 240 as well. Does that sound like it would work or am I going to burn down the place or worst get fried? Hopefully this makes sense. I know the obvious is to hire electrician but I'm confident doing this on my own if thats all I have to do then I will certainly call one or get an orion 1 from titan cont. The light is the only thing that will be running off this outlet/breaker. I really would appreciate some feedback. Thanks.
 
GrowGod

GrowGod

BANNED!
Supporter
8,429
313
I have a question, any advice would be helpful. I hope this is the right place to post. First of all, one of the lights I have is a 240 watt 1000 watt nanolux de and I'm trying to find out if I can keep the current wiring. It is 10/3 wire connected to a 30amp single pole breaker in a 100 amp sub panel. Could I just change the single pole 30amp breaker to a double 30 amp breaker and keep the 10-3 romex wire?? The outlet in the wall is for a 120 and would need to be changed to 240 as well. Does that sound like it would work or am I going to burn down the place or worst get fried? Hopefully this makes sense. I know the obvious is to hire electrician but I'm confident doing this on my own if thats all I have to do then I will certainly call one or get an orion 1 from titan cont. The light is the only thing that will be running off this outlet/breaker. I really would appreciate some feedback. Thanks.
I think u should get some help from an electrician or at least a grower that's done it before. Or you can do it yourself,but I would run a line rated for 30amps.If your only running 1 ballast just get a new one that is ready for 120v.
 
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praxis

14
13
I think u should get some help from an electrician or at least a grower that's done it before. Or you can do it yourself,but I would run a line rated for 30amps.If your only running 1 ballast just get a new one that is ready for 120v.
l
Thank you very much GrowGod for the response and advise. 10/3 wire is rated up to 30 amps. I meant I'm only running one ballast from this outlet and breaker. I don't really want to return the nanos. Maybe I will just get the titan controls orion one (power supply). Thanks again.
 
E

editon69

3
1
Hi everyone can I install a sub-panel inside of a sealed room? (pic below)
I been using it outside of my room but now unfortunately it has to be inside of it and I don't know if is a fire hazard.

Thanks
 
2ec1b3o
E

editon69

3
1
my discomfort is with a sealed room at 50 to 65 % humidity with my sub panel installed inside of the room.
is this going to be a fire hazard or I will be ok with it?
sorry I'm paranoid and always try to avoid any fire hazard.

Thank you and happy growing
 
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praxis

14
13
my discomfort is with a sealed room at 50 to 65 % humidity with my sub panel installed inside of the room.
is this going to be a fire hazard or I will be ok with it?
sorry I'm paranoid and always try to avoid any fire hazard.

Thank you and happy growing

Hey edition69, I literally just had a licensed electrician hook up my grow room and he installed the sub panel in the grow room, fully aware of what I was doing in this room. While he was there he did not mention anything about humidity. However, he did do some GFCI breakers in the box because of the distance my grow room is to the pool. Apparently something to do with building code in my area. Didn't say anything about my giant reservoir which is in the room too. Anyway the humidity in my grow room has been over 60% lately (not ideal). I hope this helps and someone else can give you some assurance or advice too.
 
E

editon69

3
1
View attachment 519614
Hey edition69, I literally just had a licensed electrician hook up my grow room and he installed the sub panel in the grow room, fully aware of what I was doing in this room. While he was there he did not mention anything about humidity. However, he did do some GFCI breakers in the box because of the distance my grow room is to the pool. Apparently something to do with building code in my area. Didn't say anything about my giant reservoir which is in the room too. Anyway the humidity in my grow room has been over 60% lately (not ideal). I hope this helps and someone else can give you some assurance or advice too.
thank you Sir that's the answer I was looking for. I have a reservoir in my room too. sorry if my question sounds stupid but I was in doubt and I travel a lot and I dont want to be out of the country with my house on fire. I plan to install a gfci outlet in the first outlet on the circuit to protect all subsequent outlets. Thanks again

happy growing
 
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CelticEBE

CelticEBE

1,831
263
OK, got a couple of questions for you experienced sparky types.

I'm about to trench some power to my workshop. 125 amps on a 160' run.

According to this page. I need 1/0 copper, or 2/0 aluminum.
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx

My question is this. I will be running a FLIP, so there will be a constant draw on the line. Should I go one size above what is recommended?

Also, can I get away with a smaller neutral?

Thanks in advance for any input.
 
fishwhistle

fishwhistle

4,686
263
1/0 is plenty,i ran it 225' for 125 amps so 160 is cake,I used to have 2 4k rooms flipping back and forth and a veg room all with minis with no issues,now i only run one flower and veg.I did not run a neutral but instead i established a new ground near the sub panel by driving a new 10' ground rod.I know power companies use aluminum but id stick to copper,get ready for a shock when you buy it.
I just pulled my receipt $1590.25 for 2 240' cuts of 1/0(2011),Also get it a little longer than you think you need too,Its a bitch pulling that stuff and you lose a little in the twists and turns of the conduit.
PM me if you have questions or i can help.
 
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