Most new residential construction have 200 amp panels. With that said what size line are the power companies bringing in from their poles to the homes for that 200 amp box?
I'm having a little hard time understanding this if you posted a picture I could definitely understand it if you're talking about getting past the plastic guards those are tamper resistant outlets and you really don't need to worry about those for your grow you can put a normal outlets Aa with with the plug on the going part way in Auto 120 cord with no ground the neutral prom is bigger but I'm pretty sure all of your plugs have grounds so I'm a little confused on it not going in all the way pictures will help if you need anything elseI just hooked up a helios 4 as it is supposed to have 'universal outlets'. It specifically states 240 volt output on the controller itself with an arrow to the outlet but I can only physically plug in 120 volt cords. When I try to plug in a 240 volt cord it goes half way and than physically cannot plug in the rest of the way. (The 3 prongs , -.- , get past the plastic casing but the conduits are blocked from making contact and securing in place.) I can run my ballasts that run on either 120/240 on 120 but I have another 600 watt ballast that is 240 volts only, so I am trying to run them all on 240 but the plugs themselves don't fit into the outlets. There are slots for the prongs and it would seem like it could as well as it is advertised so. Is there a 120 to 240 toggle that I should be looking for on/inside of the box? It runs 2 x 600 watt ballasts with 120 volt cords currently. It's tapped off of a 240 volt 30 amp line(no longer used) that was plugged into the power box itself by an electrician. I am pretty sure the electrical is not an issue as it has been running for about a month with the 2x600/120volt.
http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Control...=UTF8&qid=1445977407&sr=8-1&keywords=helios+4
I feel like a dumby and I am assuming that it's something relatively simple. I am not an electrician by any means. If the line wasn't there to be tapped off of already I would not have done it myself. I appreciate any advice towards this matter, thanks. ^_^
Nobody's heard of this happening ??? I tried replacing power box but did the same thing, tomorrow I willput in new 50 amp breaker , if that's not the problem then it's the old ass panel and I guess I'm shit out of luck and will run extension cordsOk got a problem guys, I hooked up my 8 light controller cap brand with 120 relay for timer. I hooked the box up to its own 50 amp breaker everything was running great for 4 days. Today I got to the grow and the lights are off and some fans that are on a 120 breaker were off as well. So I plug the relay into a working outlet and no lights come on all balasy flashing red. But here's where I'm stumped I plugged the relay in then everything on the 120 outlet that wasn't working comes on???? Then I unplug all lights from the box plugged the relay back in and the fans from 120 outlet do not run back on until I plug in a light to the box?????? Totally confused
You're not overloading your breaker with your lights but if your cord is like a 16 gauge one of those cheapy orange Home Depot specials that is not good it should be 12 gauge and surge protectors aren't that great I would only use a metal one forget the plastic they melt. As for your main possibly everything turned on is overloading but it doesn't sound like it from what you described everything in your house not just your roomSo, I have a 100 amp main breaker. I'm running a standard hot water hater stove fridge washer dryer two tv's and lights. Don't know amps or wattage let's just say standard. Now in my grow room I have a 250w mh and 150w hospital and 125w cfls. The hids are on a surge protector which is plugged into extension chord....and that's on a 20 amp breaker...now the breaker for that room keeps kicking and once in a while it'll kick the main...any idea what issue is?..
U can run 600 amps per leg but that doesn't mean u can run 1800 total. The simple way of saying it (all I have time for at the present) is that, for a balanced 120/240 volt system, all the current that leaves the source on one leg is going to return to the source on the other leg. It is not 100 amps on Phase A plus 100 amps on Phase B for a total of 200 amps. Rather it is 200 amps leaves on Phase A, and the same 200 amps returns on Phase B.3 phase power question . . . .
I have a question about 3 phase power. Let's say you have service for 600 amps of 3 phase 240v. Does that mean each of the 3 legs can run up to 480 amps each? ( 80% of 600 amps. ) Or can it only be 160 amps each leg (80% of 200 amps per leg, which adds up to 600 amps).
I measured the wire size that is coming from the service pole and it is roughly 4/0 wire, I'm assuming it's aluminum. The service panel has 3 600 amp breakers, one for each leg. That's why I'm confused.
Did you ever get this fixed @GrowGod. Sounds like you have some faulty wiring.Ok got a problem guys, I hooked up my 8 light controller cap brand with 120 relay for timer. I hooked the box up to its own 50 amp breaker everything was running great for 4 days. Today I got to the grow and the lights are off and some fans that are on a 120 breaker were off as well. So I plug the relay into a working outlet and no lights come on all balasy flashing red. But here's where I'm stumped I plugged the relay in then everything on the 120 outlet that wasn't working comes on???? Then I unplug all lights from the box plugged the relay back in and the fans from 120 outlet do not run back on until I plug in a light to the box?????? Totally confused
No I didnt. Still haven't tried a new breaker because I have been able to get there before lights on.but another week and I'll be down to three lights so I think I'm gonna ride it out.Did you ever get this fixed @GrowGod. Sounds like you have some faulty wiring.
Your 50 amp breaker I believe has nothing to do with the problem because it goes straight from breaker to light control its the 120 volt you have a problem with. Unfortunately the problem is probably inside your boxes in the wall theres probably s loose connection or the wires not pigtailed in your outlet has burned up from the load and when you plug in a timer that will complete the loop and make things work I see it all the timeNo I didnt. Still haven't tried a new breaker because I have been able to get there before lights on.but another week and I'll be down to three lights so I think I'm gonna ride it out.
Ya something is fishy, the 50 amp breaker only has my light controller wired to it but some how it's back looping to a 120 breaker, but that 120 breaker only comes on if a ballast is plugged into the light controller, spooky ass sketchy shit! Makes no sense what so ever. The electric down there is ghetto as fuck no doubt. And everything ran fine for 5 days then before I left I hook up a heater on a 120 outlet and came back to this mess the next day.
Ok that makes sense, there is no dry wall down there so it might be pretty easy to find I hope, also I know exactly where I plugged the heater in so I will start with that outlet. Will report back tonight.Your 50 amp breaker I believe has nothing to do with the problem because it goes straight from breaker to light control its the 120 volt you have a problem with. Unfortunately the problem is probably inside your boxes in the wall theres probably s loose connection or the wires not pigtailed in your outlet has burned up from the load and when you plug in a timer that will complete the loop and make things work I see it all the time
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