smartcalyx
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- Apr 10, 2012
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if so i got a brand new sentinel hph-8 new in box, just opened the box to check it out. i have no use for it, probably wont for a while
if so i got a brand new sentinel hph-8 new in box, just opened the box to check it out. i have no use for it, probably wont for a whileI may find myself in a similar predicament; I have an 8 outlet Sentinel HPH-8 High Power light controller, with a trigger cord. I may reconfigure things around here to run 4 ballasts on a flip, while leaving the other 4 as is. That means only 4 ballasts would actually turn off (when room B is on)- and they would sync to the other 4 when they're on in room A.
Will I need to just get another lighting controller and run the two banks separately?
one tripper should active what u dont alter . So u wont need another. One power source should take care of it allI may find myself in a similar predicament; I have an 8 outlet Sentinel HPH-8 High Power light controller, with a trigger cord. I may reconfigure things around here to run 4 ballasts on a flip, while leaving the other 4 as is. That means only 4 ballasts would actually turn off (when room B is on)- and they would sync to the other 4 when they're on in room A.
Will I need to just get another lighting controller and run the two banks separately?
You will need to put a pic up of the actual outlets, since thats what we are changing.Ok, so the trip timer has 3 wires coming out--black, white, and green. The black and white attach to the lower terminals on the box shown in the first 3 pics. The green one goes to a block where it looks like it splits and one green wire goes into the 240s and then a green and a lighter one goes into the 120s. Lastly, if you notice the first and last pic..the dryer cord has three wires. 2 of them go to the post on the Siemens box, the other connects to the block where all the green wires look to split into the outlets (sorry, my finger is blocking it, but its the largest screw at the bottom of the block). I tried to label the best I could. Let me know if you require more pics.
View attachment 218920View attachment 218921View attachment 218922View attachment 218923
Ok, so remove the covers to the actual outlets, right? ..and post pic..You will need to put a pic up of the actual outlets, since thats what we are changing.
The siemens contactor activates by those small black and white wires, those are the controlls that simply engage the grey wires above the contactor to connect to the black wires below, letting the power go thru. So what u have to do if you wanna try without more pics is to cut the wires that go to the outlets that u want to be constantly hot and reconnect them to the grey wires which is the dryer cord
hb
hb
yes that willworkOk, so remove the covers to the actual outlets, right? ..and post pic..
yes that willwork
u will see 3 wires attached to each outlet as long as they dont daisy chain so to speak.
the green wire stays attached how it is at the bottom of the outlet, the other two wires will be reconnected to the constant hot grey leads,, 120v x 2 is ur 240v
hb
its fairly easyHello all,
not a newbie but got a question that's gonna sound kinda lame.
Upgrading to a unique new spot that became available to me- out of the way industrial spot. It is a large unit that has a room built inside it. It was built as a sound proof recording studio by a band. It's sealed, insulated and has a seperate room built as a vocal booth that is a perfect veg room. Really excited about this place but for the fact that it doesn't have much power to the room. Landlord says I can pull 3 phase into it from a line that runs right next to the room, and install a subpanel in my room to supply all the power in need.
Sounds fairly simple to me, so my questions are:
*is it that easy to tap the 3 phase "line" and route it in my room to a subpanel?
*is it fairly easy to hook up my light timer box to the subpanel (i would assume the eletrician installing the sub would have no problem with this.
*is this a job that can be done in a day, and what am I looking at ballpark for cost?
Gonna run 4k flower, 1k veg, 3 inline fans, dehuey and a 12,ooo btu window a/c.
thanks
If by daisy chain you mean there are some jumpers then yes. This 30 amp box (see pic) has 2x 120v outlets and 4x 240v outlets. The attached pics are the back of the 240s and 120s, respectively.View attachment 219065View attachment 219070View attachment 219071
if you need further info, im looking to run 2x 1000w digis, and 2x 600w digis on a flip. i just came into a sentinel hph8 lol grabbed it off ebay thinking it was a 4 light controller, and dude wont accept returns. should i keep it? ill expand eventually, but theres other equiptment i need now. will the hph8 work with less than 8 lights? or should i sell it and grab a smaller controller? or am i a moron and not even need the hph8 if i have the subpanel from the link above? sorry bro, been growing for almost ten plus years on a hobby level, all because im afraid to step it up cause im deathly afraid of electricity after being shocked a couple times
if theres an attic u could have the electrician extend that run from ur dryer plug to the spot u need it. All ull need is some flex conduit and some #10 wire which is rated for 30 amps , thats whats in there now.... most likelythinking of grabbing this 7200w light controller,
problem is my only 30 amp dryer outlet is behind my stove. the other option is the power thief(horrible name) on the same page. but either way my dryer plug is about 15 maybe 20 feet from the growroom, any ideas? or should i just wait til i find an electrician i can have install an outlet in the growroom?
lol sorry to pester but one more ? i just got a galaxy dual 250w, will that work on a flip with my other ballasts?
im in a three level triplex. i live on the main floor, my homies rent the top floor and the landlords old ass brother(hes an opera star, keeps me up late at night belting horrible ballads) lives in the basement. in my kitchen the range is plugged into a 30 amp dryer plug, but the problem is i cant have a big subpanel right above my stove. looks kinda funny ya know? everything that need to be plugged into it is fifteen feet away in the growroom. im thinking of just saying fuck my stove. unplug that shit, and run a 30 amp extension cord to the 7200w light controller in the grow room? is that safe/whats the safest way to do that? and just to check, this deluxe 7200w light controllerif theres an attic u could have the electrician extend that run from ur dryer plug to the spot u need it. All ull need is some flex conduit and some #10 wire which is rated for 30 amps , thats whats in there now.... most likely
Or u can build ur own ext. cord if u dont mind that route. TYysticks got it right on about ur controllers, just make sure they are the same volts, watts dont matter
hb
lol i know how a flip works. im saying its a dual 250w ballast. it runs 2x20w lamps at once. what happens if i plug it into a flip? curious to know, really dont wanna try it out with all new equipment thoughthe way a flipbox works is to switch the load of one ballast back and forth between two bulbs. If your ballast is 250w, then as long as it switches between two bulbs that are both 250w, it will work fine and it won't matter what else is going on with other flips or in the room.
Multiple flipboxes are just long rows of singles, all in one box and controlled by the same relay.
I like the www.dxhydro.com site you found; I especially like their 'smart flipboxes', where the load is turned OFF prior to the load being switched. This makes much more sense and will not fry contacts- or ballasts.
typo, the galaxy dual 250 im talking about runs 2 250w lamps simultaneouslylol i know how a flip works. im saying its a dual 250w ballast. it runs 2x20w lamps at once. what happens if i plug it into a flip? curious to know, really dont wanna try it out with all new equipment though
ty
typo, the galaxy dual 250 im talking about runs 2 250w lamps simultaneously
touche, just didnt wanna break new gear. thx for the info!Treat it like two separate ballasts. Plug each side into its own flip, and run two 250w bulbs from each one, for a total of four. Just don't ever ask one side of your ballast to run and not the other- or to put it another way, make sure you use the same trigger on both flipboxes you use. That's easy if it's one big multiple circuit flipbox; it will use the same trigger.
If you so smart and know how flipboxes work, why you asking questions? ;)
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