H2o2

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fletchman

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I read once added to your water you should wait a few hours before adding nutes?

So if you fill a bucket of water, add h2o2, let sit for a few hours add nutes and then pour into your rez, the h2o2 is still effective?

Anyone here like h2o2 for preventive maintenance for root rot and slime? Seems way cheaper than zone or other methods.

Thanks for any help,
 
B

Bobby Smith

1,378
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I used (and will continue to use) 35% H2O2 until my current gallon sized bottle runs out, but then I have to downgrade to 29% because 35% has become illegal where I live.

And yes, the two things that you mentioned are the two main reasons I used it - 1mL/gallon.

I don't do that "wait a few hours before adding nutes" shit - if your nutes are alive, you shouldn't be using H2O2.

If your nutes are dead, it doesn't matter when you add the H2O2.

Of course, if you're doing RDWC or just DWC, you're gonna want to put the H2O2 in gradually to not shock the fuck out of the first plant in the line and to ensure an even distribution throughout your system.
 
F

fletchman

Guest
I used (and will continue to use) 35% H2O2 until my current gallon sized bottle runs out, but then I have to downgrade to 29% because 35% has become illegal where I live.

And yes, the two things that you mentioned are the two main reasons I used it - 1mL/gallon.

I don't do that "wait a few hours before adding nutes" shit - if your nutes are alive, you shouldn't be using H2O2.

If your nutes are dead, it doesn't matter when you add the H2O2.

Of course, if you're doing RDWC or just DWC, you're gonna want to put the H2O2 in gradually to not shock the fuck out of the first plant in the line and to ensure an even distribution throughout your system.


Good advice, didn't even think about the first girls in line, but they normally get hammered the hardest anyway.


I called all around town where I live and only ONE place carries 35% food grade, $20 somethin a quart, seems like a good deal to me.
 
H

HappyGrower

85
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I called all around town where I live and only ONE place carries 35% food grade, $20 somethin a quart, seems like a good deal to me.

Just found this site on the www. (see below)They have a 4 Liter jug of the H2O2 @ 29% for only $20! Sounds like a Better deal to me~!!

The 35% H2O2 is Illegal in the USA. We can only get the 29% stuff now.
I have only seen the 35% stuff listed for sale in the UK.

Take Care, HappyGrower :volcano:
 
F

fletchman

Guest
Just found this site on the www. (see below)They have a 4 Liter jug of the H2O2 @ 29% for only $20! Sounds like a Better deal to me~!!

The 35% H2O2 is Illegal in the USA. We can only get the 29% stuff now.
I have only seen the 35% stuff listed for sale in the UK.

Take Care, HappyGrower :volcano:


Illegal? The store I called that says they have food grade 35% is in northen Michigan?
 
S

stillcantroll

32
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Going to have to respectfully disagree with this. Although it's true that you should never even think of using H2o2 with any sort of living res, you absolutely should let the H2o2 sit in a seperate volume of water for 30 minutes before adding it to your res. Why? Because if you're adding it directly to your res, the H2o2's oxidizing effects can (and will, in my experience) damage your root mass. When leaving it in a seperate volume of water, you give the H2o2 an opportunity to release that oxygen safely and away from your roots, then pouring that oxygen-rich solution into your res. H2o2 is very dangerous stuff, and is not to be handled haphazardly. If it can eat your skin, it can eat your roots. Be careful, especially with anything over 20%.

I used (and will continue to use) 35% H2O2 until my current gallon sized bottle runs out, but then I have to downgrade to 29% because 35% has become illegal where I live.

And yes, the two things that you mentioned are the two main reasons I used it - 1mL/gallon.

I don't do that "wait a few hours before adding nutes" shit - if your nutes are alive, you shouldn't be using H2O2.

If your nutes are dead, it doesn't matter when you add the H2O2.

Of course, if you're doing RDWC or just DWC, you're gonna want to put the H2O2 in gradually to not shock the fuck out of the first plant in the line and to ensure an even distribution throughout your system.
 
O

Original Grower

43
8
for 15 years ive added 1.6ml/liter 35% hyox to a fresh res with nutes with nothing but good results and tougher greener plants.

its does what bennies do and more for 1/16 the cost, peace, og
 
U

UCtestn

431
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Move your airpumps to a cooler room and run aquashield and roots excelurator and there will be no need for h2o2.

The problem with the hot air coming out of the pumps won't be resolved with colder air intake. The way UC reduced the air outlet early on increases the pressure output from the pump. This higher compressed air heats up.

Want colder air coming out of the stones? Run a larger line from the pump to a larger distribution system that does not increase the pressure, but takes advantage of the cfm without restrictions.
 
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UCtestn

431
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*edit* only reason to run a pump outside a room is if you are running elevated CO2 levels.
 
M

Mr.Detroit

Guest
The problem with the hot air coming out of the pumps won't be resolved with colder air intake. The way UC reduced the air outlet early on increases the pressure output from the pump. This higher compressed air heats up.

Want colder air coming out of the stones? Run a larger line from the pump to a larger distribution system that does not increase the pressure, but takes advantage of the cfm without restrictions.

I'm calling bullshit on that... When ever its cold around my airpumps my water temps go down I don't know about how it will effect the water temp in uc because of the inline pump making more heat but in a 5 gal bucket it makes a difference in water temps hence people putting their airpump inside of small refrigerators and whatnot. Putting an airpump outside when running co2 is a must. Putting the airpumps into a colder room outside your grow helps a lot. Why would you want an airpump in a grow room from the get go is beyond me. The idea is to remove heat from the room not add it. And airpumps get stupid hot. The hose works good too I have done that also. But simply just moving the pump makes a night and day difference. In all reality though what you need in UC is a chiller... thats the real way to keep the bad things away and keep that temp down.
 
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UCtestn

431
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Easy check...

Blow the air coming out into a box.
Put a thermometer in there.
Them move pump to cold air for colder intake...

Then think about wether you call BS or not.

Here is the best way to keep air temps from your pump down... except I would run to a bigger pipe if running more then one pump.

Cheers!
 
M

Mr.Detroit

Guest
Easy check...

Blow the air coming out into a box.
Put a thermometer in there.
Them move pump to cold air for colder intake...

Then think about wether you call BS or not.

Here is the best way to keep air temps from your pump down... except I would run to a bigger pipe if running more then one pump.

Cheers!

Wow he laid that shit down... I just saw what I am about to do when my UC comes... good post
 
F

f1ydave

277
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The problem with the hot air coming out of the pumps won't be resolved with colder air intake. The way UC reduced the air outlet early on increases the pressure output from the pump. This higher compressed air heats up.

Want colder air coming out of the stones? Run a larger line from the pump to a larger distribution system that does not increase the pressure, but takes advantage of the cfm without restrictions.

I'm calling bullshit on that... When ever its cold around my airpumps my water temps go down I don't know about how it will effect the water temp in uc because of the inline pump making more heat but in a 5 gal bucket it makes a difference in water temps hence people putting their airpump inside of small refrigerators and whatnot. Putting an airpump outside when running co2 is a must. Putting the airpumps into a colder room outside your grow helps a lot. Why would you want an airpump in a grow room from the get go is beyond me. The idea is to remove heat from the room not add it. And airpumps get stupid hot. The hose works good too I have done that also. But simply just moving the pump makes a night and day difference. In all reality though what you need in UC is a chiller... thats the real way to keep the bad things away and keep that temp down.

Wow he laid that shit down... I just saw what I am about to do when my UC comes... good post

HAHAHA I got quoted! You are both right on different points. Lets combine both your ideas.

Air cooling is incredibly efficient. While larger air lines will work, longer lines can be just as efficient too. Its all about surface area when it comes to cooling air with air. (Concrete absorbs heat very well too)

As you saw with my setup. We are NOT running any water chiller. Water drops to 65 F at night and warms up to 68-69 F by the finish of the lights on cycle. This is relative to the basement air outside the rooms being 65 F at all times. You will notice when the plants are smaller the lights penetrate the buckets more and may go up to 72ish, but you can control this with the A/C. The buckets will match the room temp, its all relative. The grow rooms themselves maintain 75 F during lights on cycle but the water temps stay much lower.

FYI that 1/2" pvc slip, isn't even glued together, just fitted. There was a noticeable improvement in the air bubbles in both systems too. I have no idea why since it should equalize just the same. Perhaps they are that much cooler and more efficient? Or one is more powerful than the other? Or a combination of the two.

They sell the pvc tubes in 10' sections. We have 1 - 9ft section from the air pumps to a T that goes to both rubber manifolds. The manifolds used to be hot to the touch and naturally was pumping hot air into the water raising the temps. We just decided to wait till we added CO2.

FYI on putting pump in a refrigerator; would not work at all. The pumps get too hot. You would burn up the fridge fast. Fridges are not designed for process cooling, they are a solid state cooling appliance. Meant to strictly maintain a cool state, not to constantly cool a warm source.
 
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UCtestn

431
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HAHAHA I got quoted! You are both right on different points. Lets combine both your ideas.

Air cooling is incredibly efficient. While larger air lines will work, longer lines can be just as efficient too. Its all about surface area when it comes to cooling air with air. (Concrete absorbs heat very well too)

As you saw with my setup. We are NOT running any water chiller. Water drops to 65 F at night and warms up to 68-69 F by the finish of the lights on cycle. This is relative to the basement air outside the rooms being 65 F at all times. You will notice when the plants are smaller the lights penetrate the buckets more and may go up to 72ish, but you can control this with the A/C. The buckets will match the room temp, its all relative.

FYI that 1/2" pvc slip, isn't even glued together, just fitted. There was a noticeable improvement in the air bubbles in both systems too. I have no idea why since it should equalize just the same.

They sell the pvc tubes in 10' sections. We have 1 - 9ft section from the air pumps to a T that goes to both rubber manifolds. The manifolds used to be hot to the touch and naturally was pumping hot air into the water raising the temps. We just decided to wait till we added CO2.

That's cool... I didn't realize you had done it on purpose to increase airflow.
I'm a car nut. Specifically small displacement motors with turbos. The airpumps in the UC are the same concept as a turbo when it comes to increased pressure. Really want to drop those air temps? Make an intercooler and put it on the PVC run. Throw a fan on the intercooler and BAM you have much colder air being put into your water.

While colder air input may help, I would bet it would not work if you did not include the bigger air feed to the air lines. So I agree, it's a combination of both, but still believe relieving the pressure is much more important then air intake temp.

This is the only design "flaw" I see in the UC. They should include the threaded fitting they use for the bubbler in the epicenter for each bucket and at minimum 1/2" PVC T fitting and piping so that each bucket is fed air the same way the epicenter is fed.

It would be more kick ass to have the PVC at 3/4" to reduce the pressure even further. The only restriction to the air flow should be the air hose connecting the stones. We would not be worrying about upgrading air pumps if the ones included ran more efficiently.

And to be even longer winded... using bigger stones with bigger feed lines would make these pumps sing! Woot. :character0111:
 
F

f1ydave

277
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That's cool... I didn't realize you had done it on purpose to increase airflow.
I'm a car nut. Specifically small displacement motors with turbos. The airpumps in the UC are the same concept as a turbo when it comes to increased pressure. Really want to drop those air temps? Make an intercooler and put it on the PVC run. Throw a fan on the intercooler and BAM you have much colder air being put into your water.

While colder air input may help, I would bet it would not work if you did not include the bigger air feed to the air lines. So I agree, it's a combination of both, but still believe relieving the pressure is much more important then air intake temp.

This is the only design "flaw" I see in the UC. They should include the threaded fitting they use for the bubbler in the epicenter for each bucket and at minimum 1/2" PVC T fitting and piping so that each bucket is fed air the same way the epicenter is fed.

It would be more kick ass to have the PVC at 3/4" to reduce the pressure even further. The only restriction to the air flow should be the air hose connecting the stones. We would not be worrying about upgrading air pumps if the ones included ran more efficiently.

And to be even longer winded... using bigger stones with bigger feed lines would make these pumps sing! Woot. :character0111:

Woops, I started to write this and the phone has been ringing off the hook.

Turbo's compresses air to increase the density of air and force it into a manifold beyond normal atmospheric pressure. Manifold pressure should not be confused with the volume of air that a turbo can flow. While Air pumps do compress air, its only on a very small scale. I think you were getting at "charge air", where the temperature of the air increases as it becomes pressurized and that if the tubing was bigger it will be cooler. I could be wrong but I think that even if you ran 1", 4", 8", or 12" pvc and would still have the same "charge air" output, because the pressure would still be 6.5psi per pump or whatever they kick out. To actually cool the air you need surface area, which a 10' line would provide.

As far as an "aftercooler" within in the pvc line, you would only be talking about a few degrees at most because it would still be relative to the room temp. it was in. I don't really see much a benefit being derived from this. Although if you didn't have a 10' of surface area, perhaps 5 levels of 2 ft line with a fan would most likely achieve the same thing in a much smaller space. This of course is without doing any kind of calculations to determine the difference/similarity's.

Again, I am not very experienced with process cooling and my knowledge is limited in this aspect. I am trying to learn more reading HVAC forums though.

I would upgrade my air stones before I worried about upgrading the air pump.
 
F

f1ydave

277
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On a side note, if you put hydrogen peroxide in a nutrient system with live bacteria it will kill all of it. Hence, why roots die and plants get damaged. Ever noticed that doctors offices don't smell like bleach? (Bleach is really bad for you). They use hydrogen peroxide mixed with water 50/50 because it kills everything at 3%, let alone 29% or 35% (food grade). Food grade is much stronger than cleaning grade.

I would never put this stuff in my system other than to clean it, just my opinion. I would never use bleach to clean either, at least peroxide will evaporate and become useless after 2 hours.
 
Diatomic

Diatomic

4
3
Just found this site on the www. (see below)They have a 4 Liter jug of the H2O2 @ 29% for only $20! Sounds like a Better deal to me~!!

The 35% H2O2 is Illegal in the USA. We can only get the 29% stuff now.
I have only seen the 35% stuff listed for sale in the UK.

Take Care, HappyGrower :volcano:

Old Post But you can still get 35% Hydrogen Peroxide as of 1/30.2012 they only have food grade but price is right.
http://www.hydrogen2o2.com they also have a bad ass 34% H2o2. If its under 35% you don't have to sign for it. Less paperwork.
 
Diatomic

Diatomic

4
3
Just found this site on the www. (see below)They have a 4 Liter jug of the H2O2 @ 29% for only $20! Sounds like a Better deal to me~!!

The 35% H2O2 is Illegal in the USA. We can only get the 29% stuff now.
I have only seen the 35% stuff listed for sale in the UK.

Take Care, HappyGrower :volcano:
I'll ship our 34% Food Grade H2O2 to your door. http://www.hydrogen2o2.com.
34 h2o2 gallon sml
With any luck you will be able to get it at your local shop soon and save the shipping.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
I used h2o2 all the time until I got a chiller for my rdwc, and it didn't stop the nasties like the chiller did. After I got the chiller installed and the RDWC temps down, I never sterilized again, to this very day.
 
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