Happy so far - but checking :)

[Nectarivorous]

Hi all. My girls are in day 22 from sprout (with one exception, on that more later), first time grower, really happy so far, but obviously more q's than a's at this early stage in my learning. My big girl who popped almost immediately continues to race on, though still a little paler and more yellow than the other girls. I don't see an other signs of watering issues (I'm in coco, watering 1.7EC in, getting 1.5 out, pH to 5.9), or other signs of curling or other nutrient issue signs. But then my eye is inexperienced - hence the check! :) Photos 1 & 2. Note that the yellow colour I'm referring to is much less prominent in the 'above' photo, which leads me to believe it's just paler sativa leaves meeting a very yellow spectrum, which from the side is a lot more scattered.
Girl 2 is next, very very sideways. Again forgive me things that are just obvious and always happen, it's all new for me. But very sideways, has almost filled an 8 gallon pot in 3 weeks while only about 6 inches tall. Can really see that stretch on those first triple leaves. Is that normal? Is it a sign of some sort of issue? I just took it to be well selected genetics for plants that favour sideways growth... They are Green Crack which I'm told is sativa dominant, but can it be that the extra stretch of a sativa can actually be sideways? The short stoutness and long stretch of leaves has left them touching the soil, see photo - have since dug that out to prevent any issues from it sitting in moisture. Photos 3 & 4 for plant 2.
Girl 3 is a couple days behind as she sprouted upside down and did some weird shit. Lovely plant but a little stunted compared to the other two. She is photo 5.
Girl 4 is a replacement of a couple of dud seeds that sprouted but had munted cotyledons and wouldn't produce leaves. She cracked in an hour in water and went straight into dirt, and sprouted next day. Girl 3 sprouted 6 days earlier but in real terms reckon she's only 2-3 days behind now. Photo 6.
BTW - lights are 2x Mars Hydro TSL 2000 300w. They were set at about 30 in. on 25%, which was delivering about 12 DLI measured at plant tops. I have begun in the last 5 days to lower this. Now sitting at around 22 in. delivering around 23 DLI to the plants. I'm following a lighting chart from a commercial indoor grower that moves slowly up to 15 DLI across seedling, then in first week of veg steps up from 15 to 25. Let me know if you think they're getting too much, they don't seem to be wilting or showing other signs. The last photo there is the central top of the big girl, the one from the first two photos.
I'm using Canna A+B with Rhizo to get to my 1.7. I water with 15-20% run off every time - well, that's the endeavour. All new to me, and the demand is changing so quickly as they start to rev up. I'm keeping a detailed diary to record what goes in and comes out, so I can optimise my Nutes use as well as yield in future runs.
Keen to hear thoughts, cheers for checking it out. Peace.

 

[Nectarivorous]

Silver spots on first leaf and tip of one triple leaf are from Rhizo foliar spraying with the lights on. Oops lesson learned :0

 

[iX_Lazy_Xi]

Looks fine, hard to tell if little low on N or just the lighting, maybe give little more N next feed. Personally would trim leaves in contact with medium, but your grow your call.

 

[Capital_Florica]

Lookin’ good so far! Can probably up your nutrients some to get a bit more Nitrogen flowing, they definitely should be greener. The long petioles is normal with some genetics, nothings to worry about. You’ve got good node spacing so the plant isn’t stretching. But yeah, can be inconvenient in the beginning when plants are shorter and leaves touch soil. Shouldn’t be an issue in another weeks or so.

 

[Nectarivorous]

\

Looks fine, hard to tell if little low on N or just the lighting, maybe give little more N next feed. Personally would trim leaves in contact with medium, but your grow your call.

Thanks mate, yeah I looked at my diary, when I mixed up my first tank I did way too much for such an early stage, and it's over a week old now. Not a lot left, that will go onto the vegetable patch tomorrow and I'll mix up fresh water.

 

[Nectarivorous]

Lookin’ good so far! Can probably up your nutrients some to get a bit more Nitrogen flowing, they definitely should be greener. The long petioles is normal with some genetics, nothings to worry about. You’ve got good node spacing so the plant isn’t stretching. But yeah, can be inconvenient in the beginning when plants are shorter and leaves touch soil. Shouldn’t be an issue in another weeks or so.

Thanks mate. Yeah I've been super happy with the node spacing, I think the genetics are gonna be good, and particularly after the guy at the hydro store told me I'd wasted my money on the lights and would never get any results with them. They've actually been fantastic so far. I noticed in my diary the nutrient water is over a week old now, not sure if that can cause issues but not much left so will tip tomorrow and do fresh water, check my EC again. Will probably pull back on the Rhizo at this stage and get some more A+B in there for nitrogen.

 

[Capital_Florica]

Hydro store guys seem to be uniformly all assholes. A phat chunk of the general discussion surrounding the effectiveness of different LED lights is total marketing propaganda and broscience. The brand at the end of the day matters little compared to the technical specs. A light is a light, once you get passed wattage, color, intensity, etc it’s all fluff.

Depending, nutrient water kept in proper conditions has some longevity, say a couple of weeks. The more organic, that number lessens. They will add preservatives to them to increase shelf life. You’d see more problems mixing multiple nutrients together, different brands, or if making your own from salts because of no preservatives. Nevertheless, shorter is better and always best to mix a fresh batch each time.

Can’t wait to see them in another couple weeks, keep us posted. You’re off to a great start!

 

[Nectarivorous]

Hydro store guys seem to be uniformly all assholes. A phat chunk of the general discussion surrounding the effectiveness of different LED lights is total marketing propaganda and broscience. The brand at the end of the day matters little compared to the technical specs. A light is a light, once you get passed wattage, color, intensity, etc it’s all fluff.

Depending, nutrient water kept in proper conditions has some longevity, say a couple of weeks. The more organic, that number lessens. They will add preservatives to them to increase shelf life. You’d see more problems mixing multiple nutrients together, different brands, or if making your own from salts because of no preservatives. Nevertheless, shorter is better and always best to mix a fresh batch each time.

Can’t wait to see them in another couple weeks, keep us posted. You’re off to a great start!

Awesome thanks man, the encouragement from peeps on here helps a lot when going thru that uncertain first grow. I did plenty of reading beforehand which is about as much as you can do but life is always a better (and more brutal!) teacher than any book.
Being a math/physics guy, I just looked at PPFD and PAR maps from decent independent sources. These 2 side by side will deliver almost 1000 PPFD in the hot zones, and nothing lower than 700 in the corner. This guy is telling me you won't get results from anything less than $1000. All that matters is the photons hitting the little babies - not to mention not having to worry about higher electric/higher heat when already living in a hot place by going with his HPS option, as well as the greater penetration from the larger output area. I've no doubt they'll do the job just fine :)
Nice to be able to share the journey, will keep posted as things progress for sure. Gonna give a nice hit of Nitrogen tomorrow and should see some greenage pretty quickly. Still getting used to how quickly things happen in coco, only ever done normal outdoor gardening before. Once I worked out that it's kinda hydro in a medium it sorta clicked into place. Hopefully with some help from the fam will be able to dodge some of the myriad traps further down the line!

 

[Nectarivorous]

Have added some nutes and brought EC up to 2.1. I have gone a bit over in last couple of days trying to get my watering schedule locked in. Today I have watered two hours before lights out and just after lights on. 125ml per plant, got 25ml per plant back so that's bang on. But think I've flushed it pretty well with the extra water, which isn't the worst problem. I'm only getting 1.2 back so the remainder should be being taken up and getting nutrient levels back up. The extra nitrogen hit had definitely added a bit more green from last night. I reckon I'm about a week away from having to address the question of whether or not to top. What should I be considering there?

 

[Nectarivorous]

Photos sorry. The Second one is the one that was showing the palest yellow colour. A ways to go but will see how they respond to the extra nitrogen over next couple of days.

 

[Capital_Florica]

Awesome thanks man, the encouragement from peeps on here helps a lot when going thru that uncertain first grow. I did plenty of reading beforehand which is about as much as you can do but life is always a better (and more brutal!) teacher than any book.
Being a math/physics guy, I just looked at PPFD and PAR maps from decent independent sources. These 2 side by side will deliver almost 1000 PPFD in the hot zones, and nothing lower than 700 in the corner. This guy is telling me you won't get results from anything less than $1000. All that matters is the photons hitting the little babies - not to mention not having to worry about higher electric/higher heat when already living in a hot place by going with his HPS option, as well as the greater penetration from the larger output area. I've no doubt they'll do the job just fine :)
Nice to be able to share the journey, will keep posted as things progress for sure. Gonna give a nice hit of Nitrogen tomorrow and should see some greenage pretty quickly. Still getting used to how quickly things happen in coco, only ever done normal outdoor gardening before. Once I worked out that it's kinda hydro in a medium it sorta clicked into place. Hopefully with some help from the fam will be able to dodge some of the myriad traps further down the line!

Gardening is one of those hobbies that reading books only helps but so much. You definitely learn the most from experience and getting your hands dirty, working to figure out what works best for your environment and situation. I'm confident that with your diligence and attention to detail, you'll have things streamlined in no time and be rockin' through cycles.

Hydro store guys always tellin' people their gear isn't good enough and they need to spend more money . . . I've been honestly surprised at the results some people are getting from the smaller ~$200 LED setups. Certainly light is important, one of the most important things, but it is far from a guarantee. So many other factors contribute to getting results. As long as the light is adequate, all will be well. There are plenty of people who buy big lights and still grow shitty weed, they might grow large plants but their weed still sucks.

Have added some nutes and brought EC up to 2.1. I have gone a bit over in last couple of days trying to get my watering schedule locked in. Today I have watered two hours before lights out and just after lights on. 125ml per plant, got 25ml per plant back so that's bang on. But think I've flushed it pretty well with the extra water, which isn't the worst problem. I'm only getting 1.2 back so the remainder should be being taken up and getting nutrient levels back up. The extra nitrogen hit had definitely added a bit more green from last night. I reckon I'm about a week away from having to address the question of whether or not to top. What should I be considering there?

Slowly but surely! You'll always be better off gradually bringing things up and responding to the look of the plant, as oppose to strictly following a nutrient schedule in the beginning. You will also find that different strains react different. So maybe next time, with a different strain, the amount you've given so far would have been adequate. It's one reason why you'll see experienced growers, and commercial operations, sticking with strains and really mastering them. There is too much variation to go about growing random strains every time.

You will certainly want to top. Topping will increase yield and create plants as you have envisioned them and seen in magazines. What's funny, is that our collective idea of what a cannabis plant looks like, is a topped cannabis plant. People don't usually think about this because they don't know topping is a thing. Until they grow their first plant and it's a long lanky thing that looks nothing like what is seen in the magazines or on television. Naturally cannabis will grow like a Christmas tree, which creates something that is taller than wider. Being inside, we don't want something tall and one way to control that is through topping. But more importantly, topping removes apical dominance and tells the plant to spend energy on the secondary shoots. This causes the plant to grow more secondary shoots, and more secondary shoots equals more bud sites. If you didn't top you would have a single large bud growing in the center. Topping makes the plant not grow this single large bud in the center and instead grow multiple buds around about the same size. You might think that a single large bud would be a good thing but what happens is that all the other buds on the plant are tiny since the plant has put a majority of its energy into developing this main cola. So by topping and creating a couple main buds, the plant will more evenly distribute it energy, and in the end you'll get a larger total weight.

With the most basic technique, you will top after the 4th node. That will create two new shoots, giving you two main shoots that will fight for dominance. This is when people will implement LST to tie those down and allow other shoots that start growing following the topping to catch up to the height of these two main shoots. Eventually you'll be left with a couple shoots that have made it up to the top of the canopy alongside those two main shoots, and those will all be your main shoots that will produce the majority of the flowers for the plants. The plant will continue putting out shoots from the bottom and middle but some will cut those off so as to not have the plant give any of its energy to anything but those main shoots at the top of the canopy.

Topping perfectly requires some careful timing, so don't worry if after your first go things don't look perfect. If you are going to top after the 4th node, you want to do it almost right as the 5th is starting to grow. Don't let the 5th grow out for a couple days and then snip it. Let it get maybe two inches long, and cut it back an inch so as to leave a little bit left. Don't cut it all the way down to the internode.

Like so:

You really can't mess it up to a point where the plant is destroyed. Even if you miss slightly, a FIM, the thing will rebound. Here is one that I missed, and it recovered just as strong as the others and gave me an extra shoot. Some people will intentionally miss. These pictures are a couple days apart which is why the new growth in the second picture is further along.

Then, about a week later, the plant has recovered and you've got good growth. Once the new shoots are long enough, tie them down. The reason for leaving a little bit left when snipping is that it allows the new shoots more surface area to bulk up those joints where they connect to the internode.

Here is the FIM a couple days later

It actually put off three shoots. So after the two that came from topping, the FIM plant has a total of 5 main shoots that will battle for dominance. The two shoots were tied down which allowed the three to catch up, eventually ending with all 5 to be around equal height and creating an even canopy.

I know at first topping can feel counter-intuitive, but once you get it and observe how the plant responds and grows from it, you'll almost never not do it. And like I said, it's very hard to mess it up, even if you miss the plant will bounce right back.

Photos sorry. The Second one is the one that was showing the palest yellow colour. A ways to go but will see how they respond to the extra nitrogen over next couple of days.

I can already notice the lowest foliage starting to green up a bit. Slowly but surely, you'll be good in no time friend!

 

[Nectarivorous]

Gardening is one of those hobbies that reading books only helps but so much. You definitely learn the most from experience and getting your hands dirty, working to figure out what works best for your environment and situation. I'm confident that with your diligence and attention to detail, you'll have things streamlined in no time and be rockin' through cycles.

Hydro store guys always tellin' people their gear isn't good enough and they need to spend more money . . . I've been honestly surprised at the results some people are getting from the smaller ~$200 LED setups. Certainly light is important, one of the most important things, but it is far from a guarantee. So many other factors contribute to getting results. As long as the light is adequate, all will be well. There are plenty of people who buy big lights and still grow shitty weed, they might grow large plants but their weed still sucks.



Slowly but surely! You'll always be better off gradually bringing things up and responding to the look of the plant, as oppose to strictly following a nutrient schedule in the beginning. You will also find that different strains react different. So maybe next time, with a different strain, the amount you've given so far would have been adequate. It's one reason why you'll see experienced growers, and commercial operations, sticking with strains and really mastering them. There is too much variation to go about growing random strains every time.

You will certainly want to top. Topping will increase yield and create plants as you have envisioned them and seen in magazines. What's funny, is that our collective idea of what a cannabis plant looks like, is a topped cannabis plant. People don't usually think about this because they don't know topping is a thing. Until they grow their first plant and it's a long lanky thing that looks nothing like what is seen in the magazines or on television. Naturally cannabis will grow like a Christmas tree, which creates something that is taller than wider. Being inside, we don't want something tall and one way to control that is through topping. But more importantly, topping removes apical dominance and tells the plant to spend energy on the secondary shoots. This causes the plant to grow more secondary shoots, and more secondary shoots equals more bud sites. If you didn't top you would have a single large bud growing in the center. Topping makes the plant not grow this single large bud in the center and instead grow multiple buds around about the same size. You might think that a single large bud would be a good thing but what happens is that all the other buds on the plant are tiny since the plant has put a majority of its energy into developing this main cola. So by topping and creating a couple main buds, the plant will more evenly distribute it energy, and in the end you'll get a larger total weight.

With the most basic technique, you will top after the 4th node. That will create two new shoots, giving you two main shoots that will fight for dominance. This is when people will implement LST to tie those down and allow other shoots that start growing following the topping to catch up to the height of these two main shoots. Eventually you'll be left with a couple shoots that have made it up to the top of the canopy alongside those two main shoots, and those will all be your main shoots that will produce the majority of the flowers for the plants. The plant will continue putting out shoots from the bottom and middle but some will cut those off so as to not have the plant give any of its energy to anything but those main shoots at the top of the canopy.

Topping perfectly requires some careful timing, so don't worry if after your first go things don't look perfect. If you are going to top after the 4th node, you want to do it almost right as the 5th is starting to grow. Don't let the 5th grow out for a couple days and then snip it. Let it get maybe two inches long, and cut it back an inch so as to leave a little bit left. Don't cut it all the way down to the internode.

Like so:

View attachment 1154977

You really can't mess it up to a point where the plant is destroyed. Even if you miss slightly, a FIM, the thing will rebound. Here is one that I missed, and it recovered just as strong as the others and gave me an extra shoot. Some people will intentionally miss. These pictures are a couple days apart which is why the new growth in the second picture is further along.

View attachment 1154980

Then, about a week later, the plant has recovered and you've got good growth. Once the new shoots are long enough, tie them down. The reason for leaving a little bit left when snipping is that it allows the new shoots more surface area to bulk up those joints where they connect to the internode.
View attachment 1154981

Here is the FIM a couple days later

View attachment 1154982

It actually put off three shoots. So after the two that came from topping, the FIM plant has a total of 5 main shoots that will battle for dominance. The two shoots were tied down which allowed the three to catch up, eventually ending with all 5 to be around equal height and creating an even canopy.

I know at first topping can feel counter-intuitive, but once you get it and observe how the plant responds and grows from it, you'll almost never not do it. And like I said, it's very hard to mess it up, even if you miss the plant will bounce right back.



I can already notice the lowest foliage starting to green up a bit. Slowly but surely, you'll be good in no time friend!

Man that's awesome. Thanks so much for taking the time. A couple of questions on this because there is so much varying info out there:

What do you count as first node? Most I've found say skip the cotyledons and count the first true 'finger' leaf as first. Some say first three tip, I've seen others say first five tip??

I've read a little bit on FIMming, can you explain a bit what you mean when you say you 'missed'? You were trying to cut just just just beneath the growth tip where it was forming the fifth but left a bit behind? I had read that it is better to leave that stem rather than pinch out the tips like a tomato farmer, what I read also mentioned that there is growth hormone in that top bit of stalk that the plant was going to use to go up that can now be used by the side shoots.

If you're counting first true leaf as node one I wouldn't be far off on my big girl. The small five fingers at top are number four, and number five is a few days off being ready to set by my calculations. In fact both plants in the photos above are at that point.

Also got a trellis net to go on once topping has been done - been told to work off a setting of 20cm above pot tops, any thoughts on this? Is it a lot more pheno dependent than this makes it sound?

Anyway man, cheers for letting me pepper you with questions, I promise to pay it forward once I work the shit out!

 

[Nectarivorous]

Gardening is one of those hobbies that reading books only helps but so much. You definitely learn the most from experience and getting your hands dirty, working to figure out what works best for your environment and situation. I'm confident that with your diligence and attention to detail, you'll have things streamlined in no time and be rockin' through cycles.

Hydro store guys always tellin' people their gear isn't good enough and they need to spend more money . . . I've been honestly surprised at the results some people are getting from the smaller ~$200 LED setups. Certainly light is important, one of the most important things, but it is far from a guarantee. So many other factors contribute to getting results. As long as the light is adequate, all will be well. There are plenty of people who buy big lights and still grow shitty weed, they might grow large plants but their weed still sucks.



Slowly but surely! You'll always be better off gradually bringing things up and responding to the look of the plant, as oppose to strictly following a nutrient schedule in the beginning. You will also find that different strains react different. So maybe next time, with a different strain, the amount you've given so far would have been adequate. It's one reason why you'll see experienced growers, and commercial operations, sticking with strains and really mastering them. There is too much variation to go about growing random strains every time.

You will certainly want to top. Topping will increase yield and create plants as you have envisioned them and seen in magazines. What's funny, is that our collective idea of what a cannabis plant looks like, is a topped cannabis plant. People don't usually think about this because they don't know topping is a thing. Until they grow their first plant and it's a long lanky thing that looks nothing like what is seen in the magazines or on television. Naturally cannabis will grow like a Christmas tree, which creates something that is taller than wider. Being inside, we don't want something tall and one way to control that is through topping. But more importantly, topping removes apical dominance and tells the plant to spend energy on the secondary shoots. This causes the plant to grow more secondary shoots, and more secondary shoots equals more bud sites. If you didn't top you would have a single large bud growing in the center. Topping makes the plant not grow this single large bud in the center and instead grow multiple buds around about the same size. You might think that a single large bud would be a good thing but what happens is that all the other buds on the plant are tiny since the plant has put a majority of its energy into developing this main cola. So by topping and creating a couple main buds, the plant will more evenly distribute it energy, and in the end you'll get a larger total weight.

With the most basic technique, you will top after the 4th node. That will create two new shoots, giving you two main shoots that will fight for dominance. This is when people will implement LST to tie those down and allow other shoots that start growing following the topping to catch up to the height of these two main shoots. Eventually you'll be left with a couple shoots that have made it up to the top of the canopy alongside those two main shoots, and those will all be your main shoots that will produce the majority of the flowers for the plants. The plant will continue putting out shoots from the bottom and middle but some will cut those off so as to not have the plant give any of its energy to anything but those main shoots at the top of the canopy.

Topping perfectly requires some careful timing, so don't worry if after your first go things don't look perfect. If you are going to top after the 4th node, you want to do it almost right as the 5th is starting to grow. Don't let the 5th grow out for a couple days and then snip it. Let it get maybe two inches long, and cut it back an inch so as to leave a little bit left. Don't cut it all the way down to the internode.

Like so:

View attachment 1154977

You really can't mess it up to a point where the plant is destroyed. Even if you miss slightly, a FIM, the thing will rebound. Here is one that I missed, and it recovered just as strong as the others and gave me an extra shoot. Some people will intentionally miss. These pictures are a couple days apart which is why the new growth in the second picture is further along.

View attachment 1154980

Then, about a week later, the plant has recovered and you've got good growth. Once the new shoots are long enough, tie them down. The reason for leaving a little bit left when snipping is that it allows the new shoots more surface area to bulk up those joints where they connect to the internode.
View attachment 1154981

Here is the FIM a couple days later

View attachment 1154982

It actually put off three shoots. So after the two that came from topping, the FIM plant has a total of 5 main shoots that will battle for dominance. The two shoots were tied down which allowed the three to catch up, eventually ending with all 5 to be around equal height and creating an even canopy.

I know at first topping can feel counter-intuitive, but once you get it and observe how the plant responds and grows from it, you'll almost never not do it. And like I said, it's very hard to mess it up, even if you miss the plant will bounce right back.



I can already notice the lowest foliage starting to green up a bit. Slowly but surely, you'll be good in no time friend!

Actually think I'm closer than I thought. This is the fifth node developing inside the fourth. From what you're describing I'm not looking for a heap more growth on this before I top? That's fourth node counting from first serrated leaf.

 

[Capital_Florica]

It should be the first set of true leaves, regardless of the amount of fingers. So not the cotyledons, but the set after that, that is node 1.

Yes, exactly. I unintentionally missed but some intentionally miss. When you miss you end up not removing enough of the new growth that the plant tries to repair that mangled bit. As opposed to snipping it all off, leaving nothing but a bit of stem, and forcing growth only at the auxiliary shoots. You always leave a little bit of stem behind like pictured previously to encourage strong joints but you don’t leave enough behind that it’s a FIM, and repairs that mangle. While FIM can be awesome, it’s never predictable how the plant will respond. Some will grow back a single like how it was previously or some will split into three like how mine did, or two. This unpredictability is usually unwanted which is why a lot of people stick to other topping methods, two of the most popular are the manifold and mainline. The difference between them is really just what node you cut at and how many main shoots you’re aiming for. Without any topping, you’ll always have a single dominant shoot, the apical meristem, that will yes have the majority of the growth hormone auxin.

Intact, you can see this hormone in red is all going towards the top and not much to the auxiliaries

But from topping, we remove that dominance and force it down. Thus encouraging growth of the auxiliaries.

You got it dude! Let those four nodes settle and watch that fifth one closely till it’s big enough to give it a snip. You’ll be amazes at how those lower auxiliaries shoot up. Next time you’re at a garden center, take a close look at the plants, you’ll start noticing lots of plants that have been topped it’s just not obvious since it’s all grown back in and was probably done weeks ago before they arrived.

Some folks will trellis or scrog early, and thus multiple times or layers since the plant will still grow a lot, others will wait until a week or two into flower once the canopy height is set and the dominant shoots more established. What I mean by canopy height being set is that a couple of weeks into flower the internode growth slows down and the plant overall doesn’t necessarily get bigger, what gets taller is the actual buds. Done perfectly, you would have the bottoms of your main buds starting at the bottom of the net. So you essentially only have bud growth above the net. After you have topped and two weeks has passed you’ll get a better sense I think of when the time is right for you. You really can’t mess it up. Worse, you do it too early and need to add another layer. Some radicals will say a true scrog is only one net but many these days use multiples so they don’t have to worry as much about timing.

 

[Capital_Florica]

Actually think I'm closer than I thought. This is the fifth node developing inside the fourth. From what you're describing I'm not looking for a heap more growth on this before I top? That's fourth node counting from first serrated leaf.

Yuppers! Let ‘er get a bit taller so you can avoid a FIM.

 

[Nectarivorous]

Yuppers! Let ‘er get a bit taller so you can avoid a FIM.

Had a fun new adventure today called 'overwatering'. See photos of back two plants, back right being worst obviously. They were fine until half an hour after their first watering. Somehow I didn't connect the two and watered them again in the afternoon and they instantly drooped more. Have stopped watering, put the fan on the dirt and gave them some air holes in the dirt around the edges of the root base. They are back to normal already after about six hours. Fortunately they were very small waterings so it is draining thru quick and it was spotted quick. Think the two bigger plants must have had their root tips in the zone of the watering ring and just being inundated by the overly regular small waterings. Going back to what was working which is bigger waterings less often. They are all singing now, looking nice and green from that extra N. :)

 

[Capital_Florica]

Had a fun new adventure today called 'overwatering'. See photos of back two plants, back right being worst obviously. They were fine until half an hour after their first watering. Somehow I didn't connect the two and watered them again in the afternoon and they instantly drooped more. Have stopped watering, put the fan on the dirt and gave them some air holes in the dirt around the edges of the root base. They are back to normal already after about six hours. Fortunately they were very small waterings so it is draining thru quick and it was spotted quick. Think the two bigger plants must have had their root tips in the zone of the watering ring and just being inundated by the overly regular small waterings. Going back to what was working which is bigger waterings less often. They are all singing now, looking nice and green from that extra N. :)

S'all good, happens to everyone. I've unfortunately not grown in Coco so I can't help you with watering frequency. But, I think doing what works best for your circumstances is always the best bet. From what I gather, you'll go less frequent in veg and then increase in flower. You're at like what, twice a day currently?

 

[Nectarivorous]

S'all good, happens to everyone. I've unfortunately not grown in Coco so I can't help you with watering frequency. But, I think doing what works best for your circumstances is always the best bet. From what I gather, you'll go less frequent in veg and then increase in flower. You're at like what, twice a day currently?

Yep correct, but only like 125ml a plant each watering. Tried to go to 3x last 2 days, and they didn't go for it. I thought because I was getting run off each time it was all good, but from what I've read, even though they don't need dry off, they need that break between waterings to get their oxygen supply, at least until their consumption goes up.
I think because the coco drains so quickly and they were small waterings the top roots are back in air pretty quickly once you give them a break.
Aqua Man says the goal is to be watering 5% of soil volume, so for me 1.25 litre per plant, each time, getting 10-20% run off. Gonna take them a bit longer to get up to that consumption though. Will move back to 2x a day and just build the volume until they are taking the full 1.25 before I start increasing frequency.
You can see how quickly they have recovered, I suspect that would take a lot longer in soil.

 

[Nectarivorous]

That back right girl definitely likes to stay low though. I'm not worried she'll stretch when she needs to but interesting to see how the other three wanna go up and she seems to just wanna keep going out. Hopefully make her easier to train.

 

[Capital_Florica]

I suspect that would take a lot longer in soil.

Yes and I’m jealous of you coco folks that can recovery from overwaterings quickly.