MedicalHydroponics
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so is there a conclusion or discussion part i can forward to, this guy is slow af
also his first advise ''just run them 12/12 from the start'' for autos...needs depth
further in im finding his understanding to be 8/8 will work for flower
if it was presented better i believe people will understand this, i have done research into the hormones he keep referring to, this might just be an answer to saving cost during veg
Yes, and it is a bit confusing in the beginning mainly because the information is so mind blowingyou are explaining what has been said in the video. I agree with his logic and will run 12-5,5-1-5,5 in the future
correct it does however increase the rate of maturity significantly, at the point of 12/12 the switch to flower is almost instant, no waiting weeks for budding. see negative feedback loop, genetic oscillation patternsUsually 16/8 shouldn't make cannabis go into flower mode.
correct it does however increase the rate of maturity significantly, at the point of 12/12 the switch to flower is almost instant, no waiting weeks for budding. see negative feedback loop, genetic oscillation
He talked about the 16/8 might not make your plant go into flower, but in some strains your chances of hermaphrodite increase. Also if you have light leaks in the dark cycle it could happen as well. It was in his new class videos that aren’t always assessable unless you’re a member. He releases some on YT then takes them down.The "Gas Lantern Routine" basically to save on electricity or decrease the DLI if a strong lamp can't be dimmed. Not recommended for HIDs as you suffer from increased bulb degradation.
Usually 16/8 shouldn't make cannabis go into flower mode. 14/10 + FR EOD should do it (observe HPS lamps give off a long IR light when shut down) but actually it's dependant on the genetics. Esp. with all these new semiautos or whatever you wanna call them. Some mothers need to be kept at 24/0 to not flower (DJ Short gear), some equatorial sativas may need even longer night than day to finish properly.
Just my 2c...
The "Gas Lantern Routine" basically to save on electricity or decrease the DLI if a strong lamp can't be dimmed. Not recommended for HIDs as you suffer from increased bulb degradation.Not really sure where you got "the dimming" from but the bulb degradation is due to the starting and shutting the bulb off. So for example, some growers when they veg with HIDs, they just do it 24/0 and then the bulb "mostly" retains its original efficacy.
is there maybe some information you have regarding at what rate they degrade over cycles of off and on.Not really sure where you got "the dimming" from but the bulb degradation is due to the starting and shutting the bulb off. So for example, some growers when they veg with HIDs, they just do it 24/0 and then the bulb "mostly" retains its original efficacy.
must be great, here the cost of industrial electricity is higher than residential. a reason micro farms are popping up lots running on solar anyway though..I wouldn’t run 24/0 facilities can because they have special commercial discounts on their electricity.
Bugbee did a study on it, but it kinda depends on what HID you run. HPS bulbs are most similar to one another, though the double ends are way different too from the single ends.is there maybe some information you have regarding at what rate they degrade over cycles of off and on.
been running 6/2, so my bulbs must be degraded af, but they are super inexpensive so replace with every crop cycle if need be
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