Help needed- sick outdoor autos uk

[Trickiebush]

So these 2 mystery autos are outdoors uk, in soil and fed on a mix of homemade organics and chem boosters. This has been a quick and budget grow which I'll fill everyone in about on my next grow diary.

If any more information on feeds, environment etc is needed, just ask. Happy to answer what I can.

The pics are of both plants as they are both showing symptoms.

 

[Frankster]

well lets look at what the chart has to say. We know it's a bottom problem right? and it's outer edges, at least appears that way. Brown/yellowing burnt ends...

My guess would be potassium/calcium, but that's just me, leaning toward Potassium...

But before that, you want to check those ph levels, and see what neut might be effected the most out of those, lets get that chart also

Now, most times, I think people tend to end up getting acidic, because of pushing nutes, but you need to check that soil ph to be sure. So do you need to come up on the ph some???

Also, you might want to add small does of micro's, including some cal/mag and a bit of potassium (potash, Potassium sulfate) and my personal favorite, potassium hydroxide (not for the average user).

It's exactly KOH ie. (potassium hydroxide) what I use to balance my ph, when I mix my nutrients... Just be careful, it's caustic, will burn flesh (eyes) is a strong base (much stronger than bleach), and it's a desiccant (absorbs water from the air).
Molar mass: 56.1056 g/mol
Formula: KOH
IUPAC ID: Potassium hydroxide
Melting point: 680°F (360°C)
Density: 2.12 g/cm³

Potassium hydroxide is an inorganic compound with the formula KOH, and is commonly called caustic potash.

Along with sodium hydroxide (NaOH), this colorless solid is a prototypical strong base. Most commercial samples are ca. 90% pure, the remainder being water and carbonates.

Potassium hydroxide is usually sold as translucent pellets, which become tacky in air because KOH is hygroscopic.
About 121 g of KOH dissolve in 100 mL water at room temperature, which contrasts with 100 g/100 mL for NaOH. Thus on a molar basis, KOH is slightly more soluble than NaOH.
KOH + CH3OH

CH3OK + H2O
As a nucleophile in organic chemistry. (ie. it energizes metabolic reactions, aka transfers energy).

Safety:
Potassium hydroxide and its solutions are severe irritants to skin and other tissue. ie. It will melt flesh and bone and dissolve metal, ceramic, ect... Use appropriate ppe (hood, gloves goggles shield, apron) when dealing with such caustic chemicals. If any skin contact is made, flush with plenty of H20 immediately.

However, it can be purchased in liquid form, I just buy it in bulk.

 

[Frankster]

My guess is potassium, as the brown spots make total sense, with the lack of ability to "energize" the cell metabolic process... So it will borrow from the low leaves to build up top..

 

[Trickiebush]

Thanks @frank's. That my man was a heck if an answer. I read it when I first woke up o a Sunday morning, so o had to revisit it to make sure in imputed properly hahah. I'd never looked at KOH.

I think your spot in, and having been out of grw6for a fee years I have forgotten to go back to basics in think ( also the holy charts )

Thank you so much.

 

[Frankster]

Thanks @frank's. That my man was a heck if an answer. I read it when I first woke up o a Sunday morning, so o had to revisit it to make sure in imputed properly hahah. I'd never looked at KOH.

I think your spot in, and having been out of grw6for a fee years I have forgotten to go back to basics in think ( also the holy charts )

Thank you so much.

Out of all the mineral nutrients, potassium (K) plays a particularly critical role in plant growth and metabolism, and it contributes greatly to the survival of plants that are under various biotic and abiotic stresses. ... including diseases, pests, drought, salinity, cold and frost and waterlogging. K is an essential nutrient and is also the most abundant cation in plants.

Think of it like this: As the plant gets closer to flower, it needs that bump in K+ to use as "energy" for moving the building blocks around, and building them upon one another. There's going to a "theoretical" amount you can use, you want to keep that pipeline at optimum. Not too much, not too little, and it's going to change as plant moves from one stage to another....

Advanced techniques are great, but fundamentals are what really drive plant growth... and quality. It's great to try new things, and improve your skill set, but nothings going replace doing the basics really well, and PH is oh so critical.

It is in fact so important to me, I've thrown out all my electronic ph meters and assistive devices. I might use an occasional soil monitor, but most of my ph is done chemically in 1L batches, with bromothymol blue, and very accurate charting. Here are my sample charts. I shoot for 5.5, 6 or 6.5 depending on the stage of plant growth.

Also PPM is very important, but I watch that more by how the plant responds than what the meters are showing actually.

 

[Moshmen]

I think frankster is on it I would like to see the numbers though - I’ve got same problem right now - it was def my mistake last nite I found it was severely overfed and locked out I believe ?

 

[Trickiebush]

I knew K was a major nurlrient, but didnt know to that extent. Your bang on when it comes to the basics. Sadly this grow was an emergency one with p cash and 0 space. Buy its finishing of some description and I will get a half decent yield, I just inknow that weight and most importantly qua6has been affected.

While your her @Frankster ,what are the best techniques, products to boost Terps and resin on either a 0 budget or a low budget ( as in not throwing mega UV lights and top of the range additives at the plant ). There is all the old techniques of 48hr dark before chopping etc etc, but I have a feeling you'll know ;)

Glad I'm not on my own @Moshmen , my first purchase is going to be another ph meter of some description as well as RC/TDD meter I think.

 

[Frankster]

I knew K was a major nurlrient, but didnt know to that extent. Your bang on when it comes to the basics. Sadly this grow was an emergency one with p cash and 0 space. Buy its finishing of some description and I will get a half decent yield, I just inknow that weight and most importantly qua6has been affected.

While your her @Frankster ,what are the best techniques, products to boost Terps and resin on either a 0 budget or a low budget ( as in not throwing mega UV lights and top of the range additives at the plant ). There is all the old techniques of 48hr dark before chopping etc etc, but I have a feeling you'll know ;)

Glad I'm not on my own @Moshmen , my first purchase is going to be another ph meter of some description as well as RC/TDD meter I think.

 

[Frankster]

Well I've got to say UV is a very big component to improving resin production. That's why I go with things like the BestVA 4000 over quantum setups like the spider farmers.

Details:
Rated power: 4000W
Actual Power: 690W
Item Size: 30.5"*14.6"*5.7"
Item Weight: 19.8lbs

Full Spectrum:
280nm ~ 315nm -- Influence on morphological and physiological processes is minimal
315nm ~ 420nm -- Chlorophyll absorbs less impact photoperiod effect, prevent stem elongation
420nm ~ 500nm (blue) -- Chlorophyll and carotenoids absorbed the largest proportion, the greatest impact on photosynthesis
500nm ~ 620nm -- Dye absorption rate is not high
620nm ~ 750nm (red) -- Chlorophyll absorption rate "high", has a significant influence on photosynthesis and photoperiod effect
750nm ~ 1000nm -- Absorption rate, stimulate cell elongation, impact of flowering and seed germination
>1000nm -- Converted into calorie

Even the 3000's and 2000's, 1000's series are excellent lights, just smaller. I've also got (2x) of the 3000's. The 4000's beat my commercial double ended HPS/MH lamps... (with half the power), and it's not even close, they OUTPERFORM them, hands down. With virtually a fraction of the heat produced.

That said, I think Bat Guano is about the most simple method of really accelerating good oil and resin production. Overdrive is also a really stand out product, (but a bit more pricey), Cha Ching by foxfarms is an affordable alternative also, especially if your looking for a flowering "program" formula that can be tailored and evolved over the flowering cycle. (Open Sesame, Beasty boys, Cha Ching), but they all cost $$$

Bat Guano is the cheapest, and most effective IMHO.

The other 300 lb gorilla is using a dehumidifier, get one of those for your flowering cycles, and you'll see huge improvements, both in resin production, and overall quality of terpenes, flavonoids and massive trichomes. Cool dry weather (with plenty of airflow) is what really drives resin production. (in a balanced ph environment, with plenty of sunlight and appropriate nutrients).

I don't use dehumid during the veg cycle, or even during early flower, but once it get's mid and late flower, it's mandatory for me, because I don't top my plants, and I get donkey dick sized buds that can easily become moldy. Dehumid (or AC with Dehumid) is a HUGE gain... and the "dry/cool" makes resin explode.

Darkness helps during the harvest. I see nothing wrong with leaving them in the dark for 48 hours, if you feel that will help. The pro I've been friends with for decades swears this helps, leaving the plants "in pots' and letting them dry stalk in pot (he never removes them) Just shuts off the lights, drys out the room, and lets them cure right on the stem in dirt for 10 or 12 days... The theory is, that resin production continues after the plant dies and the stem continues to feed the plant a bit, even after it's dead, gaining the remaining product stored in the roots....

 

[Frankster]

This is the best PH meter known to man for cannabis, hands down. You only need a single drop for each test. (can be had in any fish store). $4

Bromothymol Blue pH Indicator, 1 oz.

• 
• 

CONCENTRATION:	0.1% aqueous.
FORMULA:	C27H28Br2O5S
U.S. DOT:	Not Regulated.
GET THE SDS:	Download
RETURN POLICY:	See Below.

CAT NO. -	NC-1949
PRICE:	$3.95

 

[Trickiebush]

Well I've got to say UV is a very big component to improving resin production. That's why I go with things like the BestVA 4000 over quantum setups like the spider farmers.

Details:
Rated power: 4000W
Actual Power: 690W
Item Size: 30.5"*14.6"*5.7"
Item Weight: 19.8lbs

Full Spectrum:
280nm ~ 315nm -- Influence on morphological and physiological processes is minimal
315nm ~ 420nm -- Chlorophyll absorbs less impact photoperiod effect, prevent stem elongation
420nm ~ 500nm (blue) -- Chlorophyll and carotenoids absorbed the largest proportion, the greatest impact on photosynthesis
500nm ~ 620nm -- Dye absorption rate is not high
620nm ~ 750nm (red) -- Chlorophyll absorption rate "high", has a significant influence on photosynthesis and photoperiod effect
750nm ~ 1000nm -- Absorption rate, stimulate cell elongation, impact of flowering and seed germination
>1000nm -- Converted into calorie

Even the 3000's and 2000's, 1000's series are excellent lights, just smaller. I've also got (2x) of the 3000's. The 4000's beat my commercial double ended HPS/MH lamps... (with half the power), and it's not even close, they OUTPERFORM them, hands down. With virtually a fraction of the heat produced.

That said, I think Bat Guano is about the most simple method of really accelerating good oil and resin production. Overdrive is also a really stand out product, (but a bit more pricey), Cha Ching by foxfarms is an affordable alternative also, especially if your looking for a flowering "program" formula that can be tailored and evolved over the flowering cycle. (Open Sesame, Beasty boys, Cha Ching), but they all cost $$$

Bat Guano is the cheapest, and most effective IMHO.

The other 300 lb gorilla is using a dehumidifier, get one of those for your flowering cycles, and you'll see huge improvements, both in resin production, and overall quality of terpenes, flavonoids and massive trichomes. Cool dry weather (with plenty of airflow) is what really drives resin production. (in a balanced ph environment, with plenty of sunlight and appropriate nutrients).

I don't use dehumid during the veg cycle, or even during early flower, but once it get's mid and late flower, it's mandatory for me, because I don't top my plants, and I get donkey dick sized buds that can easily become moldy. Dehumid (or AC with Dehumid) is a HUGE gain... and the "dry/cool" makes resin explode.

Darkness helps during the harvest. I see nothing wrong with leaving them in the dark for 48 hours, if you feel that will help. The pro I've been friends with for decades swears this helps, leaving the plants "in pots' and letting them dry stalk in pot (he never removes them) Just shuts off the lights, drys out the room, and lets them cure right on the stem in dirt for 10 or 12 days... The theory is, that resin production continues after the plant dies and the stem continues to feed the plant a bit, even after it's dead, gaining the remaining product stored in the roots....

You've knocked out of the park again my man. Stellar answer. I'm going to have to re read this a few times, bookmark it and quite possibly print it out to come back to for reference ( I had sever meningitis s few years ago that put me in a coma for 10 days , it still plays havoc with my memory hahah ). I will respond to this better in the morning I think if that's ok, its al ost midnight whetr I am.

 

[Frankster]

You've knocked out of the park again my man. Stellar answer. I'm going to have to re read this a few times, bookmark it and quite possibly print it out to come back to for reference ( I had sever meningitis s few years ago that put me in a coma for 10 days , it still plays havoc with my memory hahah ). I will respond to this better in the morning I think if that's ok, its al ost midnight whetr I am.

Yea, my wife has severe Drug-resistant epilepsy and is high risk for status elepticus. I grow much of what we have for her medical consumption, it really helps, whereas the Lamotrigine and divalproex sodium is very toxic to her liver. (and gives here severe tremors) I was a medical professional for 2 decades as an RN, so I've got a pretty extensive organic chemistry background. I was working toward becoming a Nurse practitioner, but become disabled myself.

Cannabis is a miraculous plant, and most people don't realize that about 90% of the drugs on the market are extracts from plants such as this.

 

[BurnzYzBudZz]

Yea, my wife has severe Drug-resistant epilepsy and is high risk for status elepticus. I grow much of what we have for her medical consumption, it really helps, whereas the Lamotrigine and divalproex sodium is very toxic to her liver. (and gives here severe tremors) I was a medical professional for 2 decades as an RN, so I've got a pretty extensive organic chemistry background. I was working toward becoming a Nurse practitioner, but become disabled myself.

Cannabis is a miraculous plant, and most people don't realize that about 90% of the drugs on the market are extracts from plants such as this.

That was all great info @Frankster. Thanks for you time and knowledge.
Burnz

 

[Trickiebush]

Hey @Frankster . Hope.your all good my man. I just wanted to update you, that I had to go with the ease and get an emergency cheap ph and ec meter set. I am going to use these ( regularly calibrated admittedly) until I can get something more accuta7as you suggest. The initial reading show that the base water I'm using is ph 6.2 with an ppm of 320 so things could be worse. I've got to check the run off of my soil when our horrible rain stops.