W
whiskeygirl
- 35
- 6
ur ph seem high...and ur water themp..bad combo for dwc...
Try moving the air pump out of the room and h202 + flush for about 24 hours and bump your ppm up...
That's what I was thinking, but never having grown in anything other than aquarium plants in a fully hydro situation I couldn't say for sure. I'm curious also about the pH of the feed/water going in, because, based on my reading only, I thought a hydro situation required a much lower pH range, in the 5.2-5.8, maybe even as low as 5.0, range. Even in coco, though, the pH range she's reporting is just too, too high. 6.2 is the very high end of where I personally will let things get.The problem is nutrient lockout. The cause is not washing the Hydroton (clay rocks) well enough. The solution is to flush ph'd r/o water over the top of the Hydroton until the water runs clear. Than, drain the system and add back nutrient solution and folier feed with Magical every other day until the plants return to health.
Hope this helps,
FJ
I rarely pH my Hydroton anymore. It runs pretty neutral, just gotta flush all the shit out of it, a few feedings and it is where you want it. I know the cation exchange is less desirable than coco or perlite, but for me at least, hydroton has always been super easy! Make sure you do a good rinse of the hydroton with some kind of filtered water, but no need to pre pH and all this extra steps.
Anyway
You problem looks like lockout. The main deficiency I can see is Calcium, which rarely is caused by an actual lack of calcium, especially in veg. Ca def is usually caused by pH, in my experience too low of a pH, but I'm sure pH being out of range in general would cause the same lock out.
A cheap foliar mix to help them along would be to take your DM nutes and mix them at less than 1/4 of the strength that you would feed them in this stage of life, and add some a wetting agent, i.e. DM Saturator/Penetrator, CocoWet, or just a drop of dish soap if you are ballin' on a budget. Maybe even crush up 1/2 of an unbuffered aspirin to help alleviate the stress they are going through. I would go for 3 times per week on the foliar. Spray with lights off, go back 1 hour later and foliar with water. Keep RH up around 45-50% to help them heal faster, but not much higher, as they are already stressed and will easy be susceptible to mold/mildew.
Is your pH rising or falling over the course of 24-hours, a few days, etc.? Can we see pics of the roots? Lets figure out what is going on down there.
Falling pH is fungal or bacterial root rot. Since you are growing sterile, add more H2O2, you can double or triple the recommended doses if needed and willing, it won't hurt the plants.
Slow rising pH is a healthy natural system, but if your pH is rising very rapidly, say from 5.8 to 6.5 in a matter of 24 hours, then you have an algae issue. This will be a pain to get rid of, cold temps won't do shit to stop it, and neither will hydrogen peroxide. This is when you need either bleach or physan 20, just a few drops running for 24-48 hours or so, drain, flush again for 1 hour, then add back beneficial fungus/bacteria and enzymes. Its the only way to really win the battle against algae long term.
Plants looked a little better today. Did a nute change. Set the DM A & B up to 235ppm along with 1ml/gal Zone. This level still seems low, but I'm nervous about shocking them again.
PH set at 5.8. It ended up settling in at 6.3 over the next 3 hours.
Roots are also looking better, although still have some brownish color. never added h202...should I?? and how much??
May try your foliar feeding tomarrow. How long do you need your lights off when doing this?
Thanks
WG
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