Hey farmers

[Dosifry]

Suppost to say TY so thank you brother!

 

[Ghosttrainx]

So my ph is going in at 5.8 - 6 but coming back at 5.4 - 5.5. The ppm is 800ish coming back spot on.
I know you told me a little about why the ph may b coming back lower but I can’t find that conversation.

Wow that's wierd but I don't treat ph run off as no need it what goes in for a better reading dig it out pot soil distill water and do it that way but if plants are find leave it it is some thing your add a N some where as that drops ph or it's in a phase of flushing N out lowering it do u calibrate pen in 7.p and then 4.0 fluid

 

[Aqua Man]

Ph and send me a link or directions on making the nitro bacteria stuff? U said it takes 5 weeks? I’d like to have that on hand. I never realized that interveinal swelling was water build up from restricted transpiration. Haha! I’ve seen it before but never knew. Your a good read lol!!

In that case just some komplete or hygrozyme... hell even cheap ass pondzyme works although I cannot say I have used it.

 

[Ghosttrainx]

You said week 5 in flower was it that's why u hit it with PK to counter act that phase

 

[Aqua Man]

To make it is simple. Take a 5 gal pail. Fill with water put one of these in there.



Toss these in the bucket.



Then add a few drop of pure ammonia from your local grocery store.

Start testing for free ammonia in about 2 weeks and each week after. Once you see it drop test for nitrates. When you see nitrates you have both bacteria in there that will convert ammonium to nitrites and then nitrates all over that media. When you want to innoculate just mix that water well squish the sponge and add to your res. Can use like half into each res refill and keep adding small amounts of ammonia every few days. The more ammonia the more nitrates so you can use it also as a nutrate booster... 1ppm of ammonia will equate to roughly 4ppm of nitrate.

If you keep feeding it you have an unlimited supply. Typically you should not see more than 5ppm of ammonia in a hydro system and with these bacteria you will know. You can add 5 ppm to the bucket and less 30 min later it's undetectable and completely converted to nitrates.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_6XD201SE3AF7G4J65Q8A
https://www.amazon.com/Bio-ball-Aqu...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[SSgrower]

More science lessons, darn, I wanted to burn one. Lol.

 

[Aqua Man]

You can cut it down to a week or 2 if you add the bacteria from the pet store.

If you wanna get cheaper just go to the dollar store and load up on plastic pot scrubbers instead of bioballs.

 

[Dosifry]

You said week 5 in flower was it that's why u hit it with PK to counter act that phase

Week four actually I haven’t hit it yet w the pk boost. Waiting till week 5 to cut out the 2-2.5 ml/gal of cal mag and give it a ok boost cause I’ve learned it will be ready for some k mainly by that point.
I forget stuff if I don’t use it right away. Especially anything remotely technical. My brain used to grasp things and hold onto em much better than it does these days. Getting old I guess. Ignorance is bliss they say. Especially when I can just pester you all if I forget something lol!!

 

[Dosifry]

Wow that's wierd but I don't treat ph run off as no need it what goes in for a better reading dig it out pot soil distill water and do it that way but if plants are find leave it it is some thing your add a N some where as that drops ph or it's in a phase of flushing N out lowering it do u calibrate pen in 7.p and then 4.0 fluid

Yes your right on that. I would get a better reading w slurry test. I do need to calibrate as well. That measly .3 it could be off would go a kind way to putting my mind at ease. Although everything looks right so not stressing too hard but still early so I want to know and understand this trend w seems coco related cause I never had it in sunshine #4 the peat and coir based one.

 

[Aqua Man]

Yes your right on that. I would get a better reading w slurry test. I do need to calibrate as well. That measly .3 it could be off would go a kind way to putting my mind at ease. Although everything looks right so not stressing too hard but still early so I want to know and understand this trend w seems coco related cause I never had it in sunshine #4 the peat and coir based one.

Using a syringe will be most accurate as it's a direct result of the water source and nutrients in the media. It's essentially a slurry without removing any media.

I would say a slurry is best if you can't get that or when testing a soil makeup before use.

Coco doesn't really have a buffer built into it like peat or soil based media that have lime added like sunshine #4. Which I like and found to have a really good overall ph, stability and aeration. But comparing growth rates it's not as fast. But anyway the ph in coco is pretty much determined by nutrient solution and the buffering it contains which is opposite of sunshine or other peat/soil mixes.

 

[Dosifry]

I started w the enzyme tonight. Here’s a lights off pic. Day one of week 5 but maybe a few days less.

I can’t read my handwriting for the start date lol! I’m calling it week 5 though.

 

[Aqua Man]

View attachment 1135533I started w the enzyme tonight. Here’s a lights off pic. Day one of week 5 but maybe a few days less. View attachment 1135532 I can’t read my handwriting for the start date lol! I’m calling it week 5 though.

Looking fantastic brother.

 

[Dosifry]

I am probably going to hit you up for advice on LEDs after I cut this crop. I’m planning I’m switching out half of the HPS all if I can afford it. It’s a 5 foot canopy But I’m growing with a mixture of single and double Enders HPS so I’m not necessarily looking for a core 5‘ x 5‘ flower footprint. I’m more interested in saving a little electricity. I love that 641 number LOL. I’ve read quite a bit but I don’t think I consider making any big purchases without getting some feedback from my boys at THC farmer. I Need to buy six of them within the next six weeks to light up the area I’m growing now which is half the flower room.

 

[Dosifry]

640 watt number It was supposed to read in the beginning of my last post. If I can do roughly 1 1000 W HPS I will eat my hat!!

 

[Aqua Man]

640 watt number It was supposed to read in the beginning of my last post. If I can do roughly 1 1000 W HPS I will eat my hat!!

You'd be surprised at the efficacy and how much light (photons) they produce per watt. Imo 1 640w will more than equate to a 1000w HPS.

When your ready hit me up and I'll do my best to explain the differences and what to look for. After that you should have an idea of how much you want to spend in a cost vs gain manner.

There are lots of very good LEDs out there but all slightly different and cost doesn't always translate equally to the benefits.

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

To make it is simple. Take a 5 gal pail. Fill with water put one of these in there.



Toss these in the bucket.



Then add a few drop of pure ammonia from your local grocery store.

Start testing for free ammonia in about 2 weeks and each week after. Once you see it drop test for nitrates. When you see nitrates you have both bacteria in there that will convert ammonium to nitrites and then nitrates all over that media. When you want to innoculate just mix that water well squish the sponge and add to your res. Can use like half into each res refill and keep adding small amounts of ammonia every few days. The more ammonia the more nitrates so you can use it also as a nutrate booster... 1ppm of ammonia will equate to roughly 4ppm of nitrate.

If you keep feeding it you have an unlimited supply. Typically you should not see more than 5ppm of ammonia in a hydro system and with these bacteria you will know. You can add 5 ppm to the bucket and less 30 min later it's undetectable and completely converted to nitrates.

If you go to an Aquaponics store you can buy this ready to use. It is a required part of Aquaponics.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_6XD201SE3AF7G4J65Q8A
https://www.amazon.com/Bio-ball-Aqu...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[Aqua Man]

If you go to an Aquaponics store you can buy this ready to use. It is a required part of Aquaponics.

Yes but if you have the time it occurs naturally. Absolutely you can cheat by adding at the start and continually keep that population thriving so you never need to purchase it again. If in a rush it doesn't cost much to do that either. If not it's neat to see for yourself. The best part is that you can test for verification and also get an idea of the population based on how fast it processes the ammonia.

Even hydrogaurd can be done like this but for that species I would recommend a diy trickle filter as that bacteria does better with a higher air exposure.

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

Yes but if you have the time it occurs naturally. Absolutely you can cheat by adding at the start and continually keep that population thriving so you never need to purchase it again. If in a rush it doesn't cost much to do that either. If not it's neat to see for yourself. The best part is that you can test for verification and also get an idea of the population based on how fast it processes the ammonia.

Even hydrogaurd can be done like this but for that species I would recommend a diy trickle filter as that bacteria does better with a higher air exposure.

When doing flood and drain, it needs the air to keep the population going. without it, nothing grows in Aquaponics. Not very well at any rate.

 

[Aqua Man]

When doing flood and drain, it needs the air to keep the population going. without it, nothing grows in Aquaponics. Not very well at any rate.

Yeah nothing that we want does well without oxygen... plants or microbes. The ones we are talking about do well submerged with lower levels of o2 but bacillus amyloliquefaciens is a terrestrial bacterial and does better when not submerged although it will tolerate it

 

[Dosifry]

So if I wanted to switch to 1 gallon pots for my next grow I would need to change the minimum amount of water each plant site gets her watering cycle. Even right now it’s way more than enough but my controller only goes to one minute. So I could either change the emmiters inside of my octo bubblers or I could get a short range timet. Right now each 3 gallon pot gets 1/3 of a gallon per event. That’s with 20 gallons per hour auto bobblers. I have to go down to like 6 gallons per hour I think and then if I do that I’m afraid the volume would not be enough to push out the drip rings evenlyOr maybe it would be? Otherwise it seems like my choices for a timer would be one second or more for every hour. So then I’m thinking that’s 12 watering cycles even if it’s only for a few seconds does that sound crazy? I’m not too sure what to do. What about installing pressure regulators on the zone lines? I’m just not sure if that would help to make sure water got to every drip ring. I’ve just not really gone to this level on the scale before so I’m a little indecisive and unsure about everything LOL. I welcome any input from the community thanks.