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Suppost to say TY so thank you brother!
Wow that's wierd but I don't treat ph run off as no need it what goes in for a better reading dig it out pot soil distill water and do it that way but if plants are find leave it it is some thing your add a N some where as that drops ph or it's in a phase of flushing N out lowering it do u calibrate pen in 7.p and then 4.0 fluidSo my ph is going in at 5.8 - 6 but coming back at 5.4 - 5.5. The ppm is 800ish coming back spot on.
I know you told me a little about why the ph may b coming back lower but I can’t find that conversation.
In that case just some komplete or hygrozyme... hell even cheap ass pondzyme works although I cannot say I have used it.Ph and send me a link or directions on making the nitro bacteria stuff? U said it takes 5 weeks? I’d like to have that on hand. I never realized that interveinal swelling was water build up from restricted transpiration. Haha! I’ve seen it before but never knew. Your a good read lol!!
Week four actually I haven’t hit it yet w the pk boost. Waiting till week 5 to cut out the 2-2.5 ml/gal of cal mag and give it a ok boost cause I’ve learned it will be ready for some k mainly by that point.You said week 5 in flower was it that's why u hit it with PK to counter act that phase
Yes your right on that. I would get a better reading w slurry test. I do need to calibrate as well. That measly .3 it could be off would go a kind way to putting my mind at ease. Although everything looks right so not stressing too hard but still early so I want to know and understand this trend w seems coco related cause I never had it in sunshine #4 the peat and coir based one.Wow that's wierd but I don't treat ph run off as no need it what goes in for a better reading dig it out pot soil distill water and do it that way but if plants are find leave it it is some thing your add a N some where as that drops ph or it's in a phase of flushing N out lowering it do u calibrate pen in 7.p and then 4.0 fluid
Using a syringe will be most accurate as it's a direct result of the water source and nutrients in the media. It's essentially a slurry without removing any media.Yes your right on that. I would get a better reading w slurry test. I do need to calibrate as well. That measly .3 it could be off would go a kind way to putting my mind at ease. Although everything looks right so not stressing too hard but still early so I want to know and understand this trend w seems coco related cause I never had it in sunshine #4 the peat and coir based one.
Looking fantastic brother.View attachment 1135533I started w the enzyme tonight. Here’s a lights off pic. Day one of week 5 but maybe a few days less. View attachment 1135532 I can’t read my handwriting for the start date lol! I’m calling it week 5 though.
You'd be surprised at the efficacy and how much light (photons) they produce per watt. Imo 1 640w will more than equate to a 1000w HPS.640 watt number It was supposed to read in the beginning of my last post. If I can do roughly 1 1000 W HPS I will eat my hat!!
If you go to an Aquaponics store you can buy this ready to use. It is a required part of Aquaponics.To make it is simple. Take a 5 gal pail. Fill with water put one of these in there.
Toss these in the bucket.
Then add a few drop of pure ammonia from your local grocery store.
Start testing for free ammonia in about 2 weeks and each week after. Once you see it drop test for nitrates. When you see nitrates you have both bacteria in there that will convert ammonium to nitrites and then nitrates all over that media. When you want to innoculate just mix that water well squish the sponge and add to your res. Can use like half into each res refill and keep adding small amounts of ammonia every few days. The more ammonia the more nitrates so you can use it also as a nutrate booster... 1ppm of ammonia will equate to roughly 4ppm of nitrate.
If you keep feeding it you have an unlimited supply. Typically you should not see more than 5ppm of ammonia in a hydro system and with these bacteria you will know. You can add 5 ppm to the bucket and less 30 min later it's undetectable and completely converted to nitrates.
Yes but if you have the time it occurs naturally. Absolutely you can cheat by adding at the start and continually keep that population thriving so you never need to purchase it again. If in a rush it doesn't cost much to do that either. If not it's neat to see for yourself. The best part is that you can test for verification and also get an idea of the population based on how fast it processes the ammonia.If you go to an Aquaponics store you can buy this ready to use. It is a required part of Aquaponics.
When doing flood and drain, it needs the air to keep the population going. without it, nothing grows in Aquaponics. Not very well at any rate.Yes but if you have the time it occurs naturally. Absolutely you can cheat by adding at the start and continually keep that population thriving so you never need to purchase it again. If in a rush it doesn't cost much to do that either. If not it's neat to see for yourself. The best part is that you can test for verification and also get an idea of the population based on how fast it processes the ammonia.
Even hydrogaurd can be done like this but for that species I would recommend a diy trickle filter as that bacteria does better with a higher air exposure.
Yeah nothing that we want does well without oxygen... plants or microbes. The ones we are talking about do well submerged with lower levels of o2 but bacillus amyloliquefaciens is a terrestrial bacterial and does better when not submerged although it will tolerate itWhen doing flood and drain, it needs the air to keep the population going. without it, nothing grows in Aquaponics. Not very well at any rate.