Hi rh butt stupid or time to break some myths.

[Boots Sugarleaf]

The reason was growth really not pm was the problem I was "rotting people's brains". Pm I control with sulfur burns. In all my vents between runs,2 weeks before the flip and 2 weeks after. I am running below 50% right now and my plants are really suffering. My humidifiers crapped out at the same time.Now I will be putting out some humidifiers with my other tanks. I made a nice humidifier out of necessity. Need to build another one for my room. I'll post pics. JK

sorry to hear about your huey's takin a crap at the same time! I am looking forward to seeing the huey you made, cause I want to make a good huey/fogger of sorts soon enough

 

[Jalisco Kid]

Seamaiden
All my threads are an open discussion about anything. JK

 

[SkyHi]

So lets here it JK, what do you believe to be the fundimentals of High RH and NO PM...other than air turnover.

 

[convex]

Can I ask you a couple of questions, maybe privately so the thread isn't hijacked? Unless Jalisco doesn't object.
:)

Of course you can ;)

 

[Jalisco Kid]

I never had problems with pm except with a cut I was gifted. I then sprayed it with 35% peroxide and the next day dipped it in zone and megafol. Never came back. I believe it is my foliar sprays that might help also with pm. Using K silicate,kelp,amino, helps my immune sys.
Since I grow trees we are talking about large surface area to be served by the root zone. Having a low rh will cause my girls to really suck up the liquids which throws my internal chemistry way out of wack. Once your leaf's pH is out it takes too much time to get it back to normal causing you to lose out on growth.
So I guess basically I sulfur burn,help my girls immune sys, use a lot of filtered air movement high volume low velocity(I use more floor fans then wall fans). I have been running a lot of stains lately looking for that perfect tree.So I guess it really is not the strains I normally run,had 13 different strains last run. Some friends believe it is the choice of strains I have,but that is not the case. I also do not let people in my room nor do I go in in street clothes. It also might be I am in southern socal so maybe there are not that many spores to deal with.
I just know 78*air,68*water,65-75%rh works with my girls. Higher air temps close my stomata,forcing too much water movement.Lower water temps would slow down the metabolism,higher too much fungus growth. Lower rh closes the stomata and higher my leaves feel funny(not scientific I know) I know Krusty ran above 80% but I feel it can be too much. JK

 

[Boots Sugarleaf]

thanks for the detail and for being concise!

not sure if you already shared, but if not you mind sharing your foliar recipe/amounts per gallon of the K silicate, kelp and amino...and your method for delivering the foliar; ie: spray, foggers??

 

[Seamaiden]

Thank you, convex and Jalisco.

You mentioned temps around 65F, is that inside the flowering room/area? Is that through flowering? I had days where it barely hit 60F, hardly ever hit 70F, and RH stayed really high (50% was the lowest RH I registered, it usually stayed between 65%-70%, occasionally getting higher).

As I mentioned, my indoor room is in our basement. So far I've only done winter runs, which may end depending on how I do during the spring and summer inside this year. The problem is that I cannot get bud density up with the indoor girls. I've just finished the trimming of the last indoor run, which was my first foray into coco as well. This was my best run inside thus far, but my game has a long way to go.

I cannot get ambient temps in the basement up until it's properly enclosed. So I've tried to get temps up in the room, but being in PG&E territory and a new(er) property our bills are significant, and significantly higher than our neighbors (PG&E says that it's because they have an established baseline). So I can't just throw electric heaters in there and expect my husband to stay sane.

I use a 600W Hydrofarm Daystar AC on a 3' mover, have recently purchased a Quantum 600 ballast (but have no cordset for an additional bulb yet). I believe that I have two main problems in getting that density up where I want it--heat and water. Water is relatively easily addressed, I have to use RO. Heat is not so easily addressed. But then seeing your post, convex, made me wonder if heat is a problem for me.

So now I'm wondering if it's the strains we've run, techniques, or what. I'm sure it's a combination of issues and variables that play into this, I just have to tease them apart. Temperature can be the more difficult one to work, it costs money to make warmth and I'd rather drop another light on top of them than drop a heater into the room.

Interesting aside, the buds on the sides of my ScroG, up next to the mylar curtains I made, were the best and came closest to what I hope to achieve.

 

[Boots Sugarleaf]

seamaiden - 78*air is what to shoot for, drywall is dirt cheap right now, can you enclose your space all the way with drywall? that will help you loads. If I remember right growth basically stops when temps get near 60

 

[Jalisco Kid]

With a 1000w I think you would notice a difference in your buds. I would love to have your problem.I would heat my house with 1000's. I would think you have to heat your root zone up. Go by some construction sites and ask for their scraps to wall your room in. JK

 

[Jalisco Kid]

thanks for the detail and for being concise!

not sure if you already shared, but if not you mind sharing your foliar recipe/amounts per gallon of the K silicate, kelp and amino...and your method for delivering the foliar; ie: spray, foggers??

I hand spray now,I used to use an airbrush for my flower room,but I traded it away. Airbrush worked great at treating patients pm. I use products around a 1/3 of manufactures rec. JK

 

[Seamaiden]

No more construction going on anywhere near where I live. Do you think drywall has more insulation value than insulation? I can afford to buy some drywall, it's that repeating PG&E bill I can't afford every month. I'd considered putting more insulation onto the outside of the room, and having someone get under the floor and insulate that.

Jalisco, you come from the island, take a look at a thread my husband started on the build-out of the basement and flowering room. I think thicker insulation would be helpful for the room itself, at least until the basement itself is enclosed (that's the plan, anyway).

I also use something I devised myself called The Electric Blanket Sandwich. Does keep the root zone warm, but air temps are not warm enough.

I was already planning on a second 600W rig (thusly the Quantum), and debating between using open parabolics or just going bare bulb vertical. I am a klutz and worry about knocking a bulb and breaking it. It would have to be one or the other--two 600W or a single 1000W, for the time being. Honestly, I thought getting it warm is a better problem than too warm, but lately I'm not so sure about that.

Thank you for letting me hijack!

 

[Jalisco Kid]

Its hard to break a bulb,burning/scaring is the drawback to bare vert bulbs.JK

 

[lime6161]

there has got to be a fine line in the 60-80% range. I feel more comfortable without dripping walls. Im always paranoid a light is gonna blow any sec.

Any exp with high humidity at night? If you can control your temps, how bout runnin 78-80f day temp with 85f nights? your gonna get that humidity at night that you may not have during the day. been thinking biut this since seeing a nat geo tv show bout the redwoods getting lots of love from the fog.

 

[Boots Sugarleaf]

I think too high at night is not that great, transpiration vs respiration? JK will know for sure

 

[Jalisco Kid]

there has got to be a fine line in the 60-80% range. I feel more comfortable without dripping walls. Im always paranoid a light is gonna blow any sec.

Any exp with high humidity at night? If you can control your temps, how bout runnin 78-80f day temp with 85f nights? your gonna get that humidity at night that you may not have during the day. been thinking biut this since seeing a nat geo tv show bout the redwoods getting lots of love from the fog.

About an hour after lights out your plants will really dump moisture.It will go from 65 to 90 % in an hour. I have multi dehueys for the night.
Greenhouses use DIF to keep their internodes close but I am not understanding why you mentioned warmer temps at night.
Not to make you more lax but I have sprayed hot bulbs with no problems. JK

 

[lime6161]

The theory is to train the plants to make the most out of the daylight. temps and rh drop a bit when the lights go on. forcing the plants in that co2/temp/huim sweet spot. lots and lots of air movement.

 

[Jalisco Kid]

lots of air movement dries out your plants too much. JK

 

[Venom818]

how do u run high rh with out getting bud rot

 

[SkyHi]

The theory is to train the plants to make the most out of the daylight. temps and rh drop a bit when the lights go on. forcing the plants in that co2/temp/huim sweet spot. lots and lots of air movement.

My temps actually rise when lights come on? lol not sure how yours drops. RH drops a bit

 

[s4m]

I also use something I devised myself called The Electric Blanket Sandwich. Does keep the root zone warm, but air temps are not warm enough.

N1 Sea Maiden,

20 below outside "in a outbuilding".


Done the same last year elcetric blanket sandwich for the root zone and it was a crop saver!.



s4m