Skybound
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I'm all about "brix", but it's just a term. Like Indica or Sativa. Since we can't use those terms anymore I guess we have to use "sugary" now for high Brix, to keep from confusing all the scientists trying to understand from the outside (rolls eyes).
Using the actual Brix index on Cannabis is pointless. The reading will cut in half when clouds roll in..
Solids... Nutes, sugars, starches, who knows what solids..
Cannabis resin is a resin, not a juice. The only valid Cannabis Brix meter is the tongue.. Last thing we need is people chasing solids in wet plant matter with no regard to what they are..
Yes, I will not be the only one contributing content to the site. . The most advanced testing is going on in the Netherlands and not with cannabis plants.
Shame than people get the blinders on and get the FALSE impression that hydro is some miracle growing technique.
It is good for the hydro business and for people to make an excess of money off you.
Weak and sick plants will always need help, so then you are sold pesticides which make the problem worse.
More money for the dro shop.
The pesticides make the plant weaker, then when you use water soluble ions, the plant then has to use another 30% of its energy to convert the water soluble ions into a form it can use.
Nitrate makes plants grow fast but they are weak and sick with lots of water in the cells and the cell walls are thin. The free nitrates in the sap is a calling card for pests and diseases.
Look at the products for hydro. What are they based on. Nitrate. Many pesticides are either nitrate or chloride based. Calcium nitrate is used in the nutrients or other ions combined with nitrate.
Hard to increase the calcium without increasing the nitrate.
I worked with a hydro grower that was in denial of these facts. Hires me to fix the problem, but then wants to ignore the fact he can not get in a run without pests or diseases.
Consistently gets mold, loses whole rooms to seeded crops and yet thinks all this science is "books not real life".
While continue to fail until you wake up.
That is why you keep seeing soil mentioned. If you want to grow the highest grade crops it is not going to happen with your current methods.
No, that is not entirely correct. You can use organic materials on a conventional crop but not vice versa.
DEFINITION: "conventional" grower --- one who uses *materials*
prohibited by organic certification programs (since by that criterion
alone (s)he can be denied certification).
1) There is nothing that prohibits a conventional grower from using
some or all of the techniques commonly attributed to (but rarely
employed by) "organic" farmers. Such as good rotations, green manures,
compost, refugia for beneficial insects, etc, etc.
2) There is nothing that prohibits a conventional grower from using
some or all of the slowly available mineral nutrients commonly
attributed to (but rarely employed in) "organic" production. Such as
rock phosphate, sul-po-mag, gypsum, etc. etc.
3) Combine 1 and 2 with judicious use of carefully selected chemical
fertilisers (such as ammonium sulphate, mono-ammonium phosphate,
potassium chloride and micronutrients) along with judicious use of
carefully selected chemical pesticides (such as Imidan, Roundup, and
assorted fungicides).
I would say that with such a system the conventional grower will
harvest a better *quality* product than the vast majority of organic
growers who, in their stubborn infatuation with materials issues, may
get it right about not using "chemicals" but generally miss the boat on
soil building, mineral nutrients, organic matter management, nitrogen
fixation, understanding the weed community .... and on and on.
If most organic growers would do what the industry publicity likes to
say they do (but too often don't), we wouldn't be having this
discussion. Conventional produce farmers are starting to figure this
one out, and if the organic people don't get their $#|^ together pretty
soon, they're going to wake up one spring and wonder where their
customers went.
Too bad the hundreds that regularly buy Doc Bud's high brix formulas didn't first get a chance to read your musings. They could have saved thousands and just settled for what you consider good pot.
You mean it sarcastic but he is absolutely right. Just as EC the brix number won't tell you much by itself. Most people mistake EC for something it isn't. It doesn't tell much at all. Just like brix. That's just logic and I think you should already know that.
Doesn't mean it can't be useful though.
And your composition isn't really special, mine is very close without much tweaking at all. Many are quite close...
Iirc its very very close to Hoagland or another well known one for leafy crops.
You should be putting more effort in the environment, cause a change of ten percent in nutrient ratio will never make a very significant difference if your starting point is in an OK range. No plant needs nutrients "dialed in" to within a couple ppms.
And if your vpd changes just a bit, or your temperature or any other parameter it'll effect everything and your tweaking is useless. You're not growing in a climate chamber, are you?
Ask yourself: how much did your yield or quality go up with all that tweaking while not changing any other variable?
And did you eliminate your bias as far as possible? (eg drying in a dissicator to account for residual moisture, lab testing thc, cbd and terpenes and such)
You know that our biases shape our perception and that our brain fucks us all the time, right?
Cause it doesn't matter at all if the plant looks perfect or crapy, it's about yield and quality nothing else. We're not growing Foto models!
And yeah. Solid reasoning! A lot of people buy it so it must sooo good!
All the magic waters in bottles must be the absolute shit and increase yield just as the advertising says. Or people wouldn't buy, would they?
Tried Crack already?
Many people sell everything they have, eat out of garbage cans and would stab you for a twenty just to get a tiny crumb. Must be the best thing ever, right?
Perhaps, but very unlikely, most people are just people and that means plain stupid in such things and will buy what's hyped, draw wrong conclusions, mistake correlation for causality and Crack might not be the best thing ever. Highly unlikely, but worth considering ;)
Sorry if it's a little harsh, but you seem smart, put it to good use and don't get obsessed with one aspect that plants are evolved to deal with themselves in a certain and quite wide range!
Btw, Clearex is just sugar to get the same osmotic pressure the nutrient solution had. Most probably it was over applied = slight water stress = higher brix. Plants can't take up meaningful amounts of carbohydrates through the roots, or else it would be an absolutely tremendous boost in growth and yield!
I don't know how brix levels can help me but this chart looks interesing. Can anyone tell me something more about it? Is it the ph in and out? I grow in coco and feed with my own nutrients. Sometimes the ph out is higher the ph in and sometimes it it the same. This is in different grow stages and different grows.In addition to brix testing, You can also use sap ph to determine what element is lacking.
View attachment 597521
Few examples:
Below 6.4 lack of a cation, above 6.4 lack of an anion.
Since Potassium is mobile. We can also test the sap for potassium.
If potassium is less tha 10% of the value of the upper leaves. The plant is robbing K form itself and time to apply K.
Can be done for a conventional (hydro dwc rockwool etc) or organic/regenerative/biological/ecodynamic no till/what ever the fuck style grower.For some growers it can be the tail that wags the dog.
That way you can "ask the plant" what is needed and then make educated fertilizing decisions.
For example. Test brix, Do a foliar spray. Then test one hour later and see if brix was raised.
Will be posting more info on various websites as well as on the www.plantbrix.com website when launches.
Going to review and test different products to see how they work at raising brix.
I have experience using the meters. Also teach farmers how to use them. Amazing stuff.
Sap testing can help to see a potential problem 4-6 weeks before you get a visual indication of a plant nutritional issue.
Hope that helps.
I don't know how brix levels can help me but this chart looks interesing. Can anyone tell me something more about it? Is it the ph in and out? I grow in coco and feed with my own nutrients. Sometimes the ph out is higher the ph in and sometimes it it the same. This is in different grow stages and different grows.
Also I'm not sure if calcium carbonate is readily available for uptake by the roots. That's why I have bough Ca EDTA which allows me to fully stop nitrogen when I want to stop it.
I've watched videos about brix testing but now I understand why this PH meter looks and works like that. Thanks for the info about the meter. It would be very interesting to test the PH of my current grow but I have only regular PH meter.
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