How Do I Add Nutrients To My Plants?

[Moedollas]

As far as when to add nutes I would either let them grow for 2-3 weeks. The soil should have enough nutrients for that.


Or you can mix a very light batch for them now. I've noticed feeding my seedlings light feed makes them blow up through the seedling stage.

Just be careful. When I say light feedings I mean it. Or else you can burn your babies stunting their growth.

So maybe take their lightest feed schedule and dilute it by half just to be safe until you see how they react.

Also water just plain water in between feedings.
So feed, water, feed, water etc.

The fox farm schedule sais feed 2wice a week ?

 

[tinderthumbs]

did u get autos fem or reg what did u get???

 

[Moedollas]

did u get autos fem or reg what did u get???

I got these , the one that sais lem had 1 good seed the others were good and the main ones I got any on here but I don't think they were male or female ,I have to find out? Does feminized seed mean it's always a female ?

 

[rmoltis]

The fox farm schedule sais feed 2wice a week ?

You can only feed or water once your soil dries down.

So the feeds per week depend on how many days it takes for your plants soil to dry.

As your plant grows you will feed and water more often as demands rise

 

[Moedollas]

You can only feed or water once your soil dries down.

So the feeds per week depend on how many days it takes for your plants soil to dry.

As your plant grows you will feed and water more often as demands rise

OK makes sense , how many days average so you usually water your plantsituation I usually water mine like everyday

 

[rmoltis]

I got these , the one that sais lem had 1 good seed the others were good and the main ones I got any on here but I don't think they were male or female ,I have to find out? Does feminized seed mean it's always a female ?

Feminized seeds are females.
They are not for breeding, just smoking.

The other option is regular seeds which are male/female mix.
They are more for breeding. But also for smoking, or pheno hunting.

 

[Moedollas]

Feminized seeds are females.
They are not for breeding, just smoking.

The other option is regular seeds which are male/female mix.
They are more for breeding. But also for smoking, or pheno hunting.

How do I make my own strain that's never been made

 

[tinderthumbs]

I buy from the same people looks like u got reg seeds bc some so much bigger then the others males 90% of the time grow way faster

 

[tinderthumbs]

How do I make my own strain that's never been made

time and place grasshopper

 

[Moedollas]

I buy from the same people looks like u got reg seeds bc some so much bigger then the others males 90% of the time grow way faster

When u think im going to be able to distinguish the sex?

 

[rmoltis]

OK makes sense , how many days average so you usually water your plantsituation I usually water mine like everyday

So it depends

As seedlings they start in 4" pots which dry down 1-2 days.

Once transplanted they take 2-4 days to dry. But as the roots fill the pot the drying speed increases. Eventually it gets back to 1-2 days then I transplant again once roots fill the pot.


Some advice on watering.
Saturate your media 100% and feel how heavy the pots are. As they become dry you can feel how light they are. This is the best way to tell if they need water or food.


During flower I aim for the correct pot size that would give me 1-2 days drying time.

 

[tinderthumbs]

When u think im going to be able to distinguish the sex?

like 3 4 weeks maybe

 

[rmoltis]

When u think im going to be able to distinguish the sex?

If they veg long enough between 4 weeks minimum but depending on genetics may take longer, or even possibly not show until after the flip to flower.

 

[Moedollas]

H

If they veg long enough between 4 weeks minimum but depending on genetics may take longer, or even possibly not show until after the flip to flower.

When do the males start to mess up the females by pollinating on then? Like when is it too late and I messed up?

 

[rmoltis]

H

When do the males start to mess up the females by pollinating on then? Like when is it too late and I messed up?

Basically try to get acquainted with what males and females look like. Some googling and or image searching will help you out.

Once you are acquainted. You will keep an eye out for the female or male primordia.

If you see what you think is male or female but are unsure, one picture to the forum they will help you identify.

Once identified remove at the first sign of male sacs. You wait for them to mature they will burst and drop pollen.

Once pollen is dropped it's too late, it gets stuck in filters, walls, carpet , house or on other females in the tent etc. You may randomly pollinate future females and wonder why lol.

But I've read pollen doesn't stay viable very long so maybe not

 

[Moedollas]

Basically try to get acquainted with what males and females look like. Some googling and or image searching will help you out.

Once you are acquainted. You will keep an eye out for the female or male primordia.

If you see what you think is male or female but are unsure, one picture to the forum they will help you identify.

Once identified remove at the first sign of male sacs. You wait for them to mature they will burst and drop pollen.

Once pollen is dropped it's too late, it gets stuck in filters, walls, carpet , house or on othee females in the tent etc. You may randomly pollinate future females and wonder why lol.

But I've read pollen doesn't stay viable very long so maybe not

Thanks you very much

 

[rmoltis]

Thanks you very much

No problem :)

 

[tinderthumbs]

.left if lady the right Is male pollen and nanners

 

[jumpincactus]

I never ph adjust. Just another unnecessary step.

The soil Micro herd and the plant buffer that.


What should be said is:

No matter what people say.
Do lots of research and find your own way to grow based on the understanding you gain.

Because everyone's environment is different.

1.)
One guy using synthetics says ph everytime

While the other guy says he never ph adjusts while growing organically and it works great everytime.

2.)
One guy says he needs bamboo stakes to hold his plants up cause they are weak.

The other says he needs pipe cleaners to hold his plants down cause they are too strong.

3.)
One guy says I need a net to scrog.

The other guy says why do you use a net? My plant has 57+ topped canopy with no net.



Just remember there is a specific application for each variable. In each different application specific variables are either added or removed. What is good for one can be bad for another.
And what can be bad for one can be good for another.

There is no 1 specific correct way to grow. Or else everyone would be doing it the same best way.

There is much evidence and fact to the importance of 1 knowing the Ph in your rhizosphere which is done with a slurry test and 2nd it is very important even with organic growing to know the input of your feed inputs or plain watering. Gardening without this knowledge is at best a crap shoot.

I would remind you that you have had some concerns about your last 2 grows where by you felt the plants were yellowing too early have, you ever considered this may be due to with both the defoliation you do and by running in the blind concerning your ph in either feed or rootzone this very well could be why your plants look like they are starving. Yes senescence is a normal part of the late flowering stages and is to be expected, but not as early as you have indicated it is happening with your past 2 grows.

You indicated in a more recent post that you felt like you were being hassled, not tryin to hassle you just attempting to get you to stop looking for ways to grow on auto pilot and see that maybe checking you input Ph and root zone Ph may be more important than you think. Thats all I am trying to do. I am sorry if I pissed you off. Your statement that adjusting your Ph is hurting your microhered is about the most crazy thing I have heard from you to date. Without a soil and root zone analysis or microscope how could you know you even have a microherd to harm? Even microbes have a optimum Ph range they prefer.

I would bet you a dollar to a donut if you do decide to do a soil slurry test for Ph you will find you are more acidic than is optimum for cannabis and if you allow your rootzone to get too acidic you run the risk of aluminum and manganese toxicity issues. Not to mention locking out npk and with the excess defoliation you do along with having no clue what your rootzone Ph is you may be starving your gurls.

I would suggest payin more attention to the rootzone Ph and your feed input Ph ranges and you will see a more healthy looking plant right down to the finish line, with increased yields as well.!!!

 

[rmoltis]

There is much evidence and fact to the importance of 1 knowing the Ph in your rhizosphere which is done with a slurry test and 2nd it is very important even with organic growing to know the input of your feed inputs or plain watering. Gardening without this knowledge is at best a crap shoot.

I would remind you that you have had some concerns about your last 2 grows where by you felt the plants were yellowing too early have, you ever considered this may be due to with both the defoliation you do and by running in the blind concerning your ph in either feed or rootzone this very well could be why your plants look like they are starving. Yes senescence is a normal part of the late flowering stages and is to be expected, but not as early as you have indicated it is happening with your past 2 grows.

You indicated in a more recent post that you felt like you were being hassled, not tryin to hassle you just attempting to get you to stop looking for ways to grow on auto pilot and see that maybe checking you input Ph and root zone Ph may be more important than you think. Thats all I am trying to do. I am sorry if I pissed you off. Your statement that adjusting your Ph is hurting your microhered is about the most crazy thing I have heard from you to date. Without a soil and root zone analysis or microscope how could you know you even have a microherd to harm? Even microbes have a optimum Ph range they prefer.

I would bet you a dollar to a donut if you do decide to do a soil slurry test for Ph you will find you are more acidic than is optimum for cannabis and if you allow your rootzone to get too acidic you run the risk of aluminum and manganese toxicity issues. Not to mention locking out npk and with the excess defoliation you do along with having no clue what your rootzone Ph is you may be starving your gurls.

I would suggest payin more attention to the rootzone Ph and your feed input Ph ranges and you will see a more healthy looking plant right down to the finish line, with increased yields as well.!!!

I could ask you a similar question.

How do you know using the same lineup what it is like doing it this way vs the way your doing it?

What if me and you take a round to try each other's process and see what the results are?

I'm just not sure you have all the same bottles I have.