How long do mycorrhiza stay viable in unused soil?

  • Thread starter Blaze
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mrbong73

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Don't see the part about the two weeks. Not sure who the rev is or why we would take his words as fact.
just a thought.
 
dextr0

dextr0

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The REV man. Hes in skunk magazine. Good mag in my opinion.

He also stated that EDTA will kill bennies which im questioning.
 
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mrbong73

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The REV man. Hes in skunk magazine. Good mag in my opinion.

He also stated that EDTA will kill bennies which im questioning.

Oh..ok. I'm sure it's a fine publication.

The clelating agent EDTA is considered an environmental pollutant [cite]. never heard it kills microbes though.
I could see this stuff being banned for use someday. What will the hydro growers do then?
 
GanjaGardener

GanjaGardener

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gotta check this magazine out. can't beat the name. f-cking EDTA! can't stand the stuff ma-seff. that last little ditty was cool. no buzz kill here. will post somethin on topic next time. feelin 2 good to concentrate, ATM.
i wonder. will they still respect me in the morning?:banana1sv6:
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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Skunk mag, a good publication? If it is, I have to see it. For me, for it to equal good it has to have things like unbiased reviews, few, if any, scantily clad girls selling nutrients and grow lights, a little science sprinkled in there would be awesome. I know I couldn't go to a mag like that for stuff like original descriptions, but the reviews, if unbiased, would be a fantastic change from EVERYTHING else I've ever read in a canna-rag.
 
C

CT Guy

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If you want a real magazine, get ACRES. Well worth the price.

Personally, I'm not convinced that mycorrhizal fungi lose viability that quickly. I'm sure Jeff got that info. from somewhere else, though I don't know his source, probably Dr. Mike.

If you re-use your soil, you should have active spores for your next run, but I haven't don't any microscope work to actually check. Microbeman on IC might have more info...
 
dextr0

dextr0

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Skunk is simplistic and easy to read. It also stretches the info out so it sux cuz u gotta follow and buy. But the info is good and explained pretty good.

I havent looked recently because Im on the farm, but all of the revs writes were of interest.

They had good pictures of close ups of plants. (I love bud porn)

Flip through one is all I can say.
 
GanjaGardener

GanjaGardener

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I used to have a slew of magazine subscriptions- now it's down to 3- National Geographic, Scientific American, New Yorker. I haven't bought a High Times since the 90's- still have a couple of oldies left- they're a hoot to read- especially the feature where people report in on the price and availability of weed in their area. I still have the 2 copies of "the Growing Edge", from 1997 that first introduced me to mychorrhizae fungi, although more than a decade went by before I started to even think about implementing mychos in a cannabis grow culture. I, (like many others, i'm sure), can hardly keep up w/ the backlog of bookmarks we plan to get back to, let alone magazines. I still like hard copies, though, and have a couple of notebooks filled w/ articles I've printed off the net.

That being said, I subscribed to Acres.

One burning question pertaining to the thread topic that I still haven't gotten a clear answer to-

Do mycos in the soil that are initially out of contact w/ the root tips become active when the roots grow into their range and if so, would their presence enhance the quality and mass of the existing myco colonies?
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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GG, I'll go ahead and recount my own experience as recounted elsewhere (Blaze's same thread, elsewhere), you can draw your own conclusions.

Using Dr. Earth Organic 5, which inoculated with mycorrhizae--mixed up a huge batch of soil, a good 100gals (for me, this huge) on one of those painter's canvas clothes, what you use to ostensibly protect things. Got it mixed up well, got it wet, left it for two or three weeks. Went to turn the soil again, using the canvas, and everywhere the canvas was in contact with the soil and remaining damp was GONE. Just gone, completely eaten through. It didn't stick to the deck and get ripped, it was just gone. I can only assume that the microbes used it for a source of food.
 
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Udyana Peace

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GG, I'll go ahead and recount my own experience as recounted elsewhere (Blaze's same thread, elsewhere), you can draw your own conclusions.

Using Dr. Earth Organic 5, which inoculated with mycorrhizae--mixed up a huge batch of soil, a good 100gals (for me, this huge) on one of those painter's canvas clothes, what you use to ostensibly protect things. Got it mixed up well, got it wet, left it for two or three weeks. Went to turn the soil again, using the canvas, and everywhere the canvas was in contact with the soil and remaining damp was GONE. Just gone, completely eaten through. It didn't stick to the deck and get ripped, it was just gone. I can only assume that the microbes used it for a source of food

Seamaiden

I had that experience using burlap sacks to hold soil that had been mixed and hit with an AACT.

It was my intention to get the amendments to begin to break down. It was not my intention to spend a couple of hours cleaning up the mounds of soil I created when I tried to move the bags from one place to another in the shed.

Fun times!!

UP
 
GanjaGardener

GanjaGardener

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Don't mean to be nit-picky, but I assume that bacilli were likely involved in the decomp, as well. I think I'm going to let my proactive search for specifics go on this one and will run w/ a "more are merrier" approach within reasonable parameters. I'll just have to tease out the point of diminishing returns.

One school of thought has it that inoculating soil w/ mycos outside of their symbiotic activity zone (SAZ- hehe) is a waste of money/effort and that the best way, (or only way, depending on who you talk to) to apply is directly to the root area. This is the line of reasoning that led me to these questions: What happens to mycos that have been introduced to or are already present in the soil, but are too far away from the root tips to be active? Do they join the colony, lay dormant or have they already died off when the root tips/colony mass touches them?

Again, it may seem I'm being pedantic here, but I've had these 2 conflicting viewpoints swirling around w/ me for awhile and there is a practical element, ie the best way to apply, involved. That's it for me on this one, unless some new info rolls around.
 
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Udyana Peace

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I was planting our strawberry beds earlier today and I was laying down some mycorrhizal granules before laying in the crowns as they're called. And as I was doing this I thought about this thread and a couple of things came to mind.

1. Strawberries are a plant that definitely benefits from inoculating with these spores.

2. This plant is 'sort of' a perennial (about 3 - 5 years) but what is different from other perennials is that the roots die off and grow back in the spring. They over winter and in the process the roots die off completely.

3. Strawberries increase in yield after the initial planting without additional inoculation.

UP
 
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Udyana Peace

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For what it's worth, the endomycorrhizal product that I use (BioAg VAM) states on the label that the shelf life is 2 years.

Your call...............

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