How To Properly Root And Veg In The Uc

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desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

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Can you give the details on the dripper system? Do you have a pump in the epi for this , or another res?

Drip is from the epicenter. however we have had the best results using the droppers in the side of the bucket so its purely for secondary re-circulation.
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

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Hey DS I know your a busy man with all those killer grow and research on nutrient profile I asked a couple of post back about your flowering schedule you provided me with 2 links UC nutrient profile & your 16 xxl grow and I've read every post I didn't find the answer I was looking so hope if you can elaborate On this please.

Are you using the above nutrient profile during 1st week of flower? And are you adding zone and add .27 at what rate also what about the following. Weeks 2 through 8 I know it's alot of question but many of us purchase UC and want to maximize one of the most expensive hydro systems thanks for you help DS and keep up the great contribution you have given to the
Farm

No, profiles for the UC are complicated, they change some times every day. Im trying to get a thread together for you guys, sorry its taking so long.

also we dropped the zone and .27.

im glad you found my work helpful.

DS
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

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Wow I followed DS's rooting ,cloning plan with dynabloom with great results.
Slight variation but I think we followed the principle. In an aero-cloner we started with clonex , roots in about 5 -6 days , changed water , RO with Dynabloom correct PH watch for the signs add cal mag, and BAM clones have great roots and more shoots than other clones we have done in the past. Following the cues and adjusting PH and adding cal mag at the right time really worked for us. We want to continue to follow the plan and so
My question is , you use epsom salts, right?
Is this just from the pharmacy or what ?
Thx

yep.
 
smokie

smokie

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@desertsquirrel
Man your grow setup, grow log , and all the help you have provided is beyond helpful it is actually inspirational, I have been trying to rock the UC for 4 runs and doing ok but there is always a F****in issue, so seeing your growth and the bar you have set.... give me something to chase and go after instead of shooting in the dark.


Anyways....... I know all these questions might get old to you but the help you are providing with all the little tweaks is priceless to us.

I hope Current Culture hooks you up cause you are some serious advertisement for them.


Thanks!
 
smokie

smokie

243
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No, profiles for the UC are complicated, they change some times every day. Im trying to get a thread together for you guys, sorry its taking so long.

also we dropped the zone and .27.

im glad you found my work helpful.

DS

That would be very useful and helpful information.
:help:

Thanks again
 
C

coloucfarmer

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0
few questions

I have an ez cloner and I want to use it for the start of my uc system, I tried to use the method you described in the beginning stages of your program but I had a lot of clone death and very little root growth.
and in under current how high should the water be in the root system and for how long because right now Im running a one pot experiment in a five gallon bucket and i have it filled till I can see it bubble through the hydroton.
I was really hoping for your help with this. we met at ultimate hydro and you put my method to shame, so I decided to move to your method in hopes of hitting the 2 grams per watt mark. any advice you can give would be most appreciated.
 
U

UCCONFUSION

Guest
You use Epsom Salt and H2o2 in Veg? I've had so many problems with UC I don't understand how anyone does it successfully. Dessert...if you wrote a book I'd buy it. Someone needs to write a how to. I've NEVER heard of Espon Salt and H2o2... Is it necessary and for what? I've had root rot problems, UC buckets break, electrical blowouts, mites, lost 50% of harvests in last 8 months. Any help would be appreciated.
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

1,177
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You use Epsom Salt and H2o2 in Veg? I've had so many problems with UC I don't understand how anyone does it successfully. Dessert...if you wrote a book I'd buy it. Someone needs to write a how to. I've NEVER heard of Espon Salt and H2o2... Is it necessary and for what? I've had root rot problems, UC buckets break, electrical blowouts, mites, lost 50% of harvests in last 8 months. Any help would be appreciated.

Im working on it, but thanks for the encouragement.

I am sorry you have been having difficulties with the system, have you tried calling daniel at cc h20? He is very helpful and professional.

We have found epsom and h2o2 to be necessary with the profiles/hardware we run, yes.

You could also post a grow log, that way some of us could give you some pointers as well?

DS
 
U

UCCONFUSION

Guest
Thanks

Dessert S...thanks for the quick reply.. I'll start posting...IRONICALLY I just this week found a guy locally that has a ton of experience. Christian is a nice guy and professional but honestly not that helpful. He says he grows tomatoes. Also their plastic is not up to speed. Thin buckets, cheap plastic. Had 3 broken buckets on 2 separate systems on 2 different harvests(FIRST HARVESTS. BRAND NEW SYSTEMS). it's a real bummer. I would have paid more to have good quality plastic. It's not good when you spend tons of money setting up a system, say 10k a room and they sell you cheap plastic to save you 500 bucks or whatever.
 
U

UCCONFUSION

Guest
DS... I was reading posts and came across your car accident..YIKES. I had two plates and 13 screws inserted for a spiral fracture of my Tib/Fib June 30th, 2011. I recently came down with an internal infection and after taking penicillian for a week plus the infection didn't clear and they had to put me in emergency surgery and remove the plates and screws. I've got to tell you, removing these damn plates and screws was one of the best things that has ever happened. IF they are bothering you at all, find out an activity or two that these plates inhibit you from doing and tell your doctor, that's the easiest way to get them out. When I went for my yearly I told the doc I wanted them out and he told me unless there was a reason he couldn't do it...Insurance I guess? Anyway I have my leg back. Hopefully the metal isn't causing any problems. Question. I read your section on Pruning, perhaps I missed something but it's hard to know with the 100's of people replying to your posts. I wish this site would allow me to cut everyone out but your posts....anyway...it seems you don't prune much at all. That bucket looked nearly empty for all the plants you have. We literally tear the plant to shreds and leave only the big stalks....it's get SO BUSHY in UC and we thought that doing that would help alleviate all the BS fluff, however admittedly we're rookies. Would you say you only take off say less than 10% in normal circumstances? We're taking off 30-50%, is that just dead wrong?

EDIT: I meant 2010... i had them inserted... taking out 11-11-11, went under at 11:11, weird...but true.
 
J

jskinit

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1
hi im new to forums i run a 12 site 13 gallon uc system as well as a 5 gallon 8 site. i love and swear by them. im wondering what is the best temp you think to keep the water at??? i run 1/4 horse chillers for each one.
 
Z

Zensai

37
8
hi im new to forums i run a 12 site 13 gallon uc system as well as a 5 gallon 8 site. i love and swear by them. im wondering what is the best temp you think to keep the water at??? i run 1/4 horse chillers for each one.

67-68 water temps will never do you wrong.
 
lava

lava

75
8
i have had some root rot lately that i am getting over. My plants range from 6" to 22". Can i do just the dyna-gro bloom to get the roots growing again, or will this cause deficiencies with the larger plants? Right now, the roots mass is severely behind the plant mass.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
hi im new to forums i run a 12 site 13 gallon uc system as well as a 5 gallon 8 site. i love and swear by them. im wondering what is the best temp you think to keep the water at??? i run 1/4 horse chillers for each one.

For what it's worth, I keep my RDWC water temps in the 62-64 degree range. Plants seem to like it and I have no root rot problems at all. I went with that temp due to some here on the Farm who said that pythium rot doesn't live colder than 64...
 
J

jskinit

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i had a rot problem once before. once the roots die they will grow new rood but the dead root will always be dead. out of eight i yarded 3 then did a flush and just fed nytrozyme,hygrozyme and house of garden van heusen root excelerator for a week. its verry spendy but i love the stuff. the other five are doing great and are almost done.
 
P

Ph0n3

9
0
Dessert S...thanks for the quick reply.. I'll start posting...IRONICALLY I just this week found a guy locally that has a ton of experience. Christian is a nice guy and professional but honestly not that helpful. He says he grows tomatoes. Also their plastic is not up to speed. Thin buckets, cheap plastic. Had 3 broken buckets on 2 separate systems on 2 different harvests(FIRST HARVESTS. BRAND NEW SYSTEMS). it's a real bummer. I would have paid more to have good quality plastic. It's not good when you spend tons of money setting up a system, say 10k a room and they sell you cheap plastic to save you 500 bucks or whatever.

UcConfusion- nice name. I too have had numerous problems with this supposed professional setup. I bought 2 12xl sites in Feb and have a stack of over 12 leaky buckets next to my system now. From starting in the beginning, middle, and end of my runs it is a royal pain in the ass.

For example. One time 2 weeks into flower I come into the room and have 3 separate leaks in both systems!?!?!? This was on a Friday, so I called Daniel, he sends me new ones but they dont arrive until Tuesday! Well now it has been a whole 5 days and my system is just leaking all over the place, and plants start to turn to sh*t. I think you see where I am going with this. Well I just replaced all the new leaky buckets and I am keeping my fingers crossed I will make it thru January with this run with no leaks, if I do I am selling these systems.

There is no excuse for all the research and development and the price tag on these for them to be leaking, at all! I've never owned another system with so many external problems.

Edit--- I have the smaller 8 gallon buckets, not sure if there is quite the same problem with the 13 gal???
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

1,177
83
UcConfusion- nice name. I too have had numerous problems with this supposed professional setup. I bought 2 12xl sites in Feb and have a stack of over 12 leaky buckets next to my system now. From starting in the beginning, middle, and end of my runs it is a royal pain in the ass.

For example. One time 2 weeks into flower I come into the room and have 3 separate leaks in both systems!?!?!? This was on a Friday, so I called Daniel, he sends me new ones but they dont arrive until Tuesday! Well now it has been a whole 5 days and my system is just leaking all over the place, and plants start to turn to sh*t. I think you see where I am going with this. Well I just replaced all the new leaky buckets and I am keeping my fingers crossed I will make it thru January with this run with no leaks, if I do I am selling these systems.

There is no excuse for all the research and development and the price tag on these for them to be leaking, at all! I've never owned another system with so many external problems.

Edit--- I have the smaller 8 gallon buckets, not sure if there is quite the same problem with the 13 gal???

How much of the leaks do you attribute to operator error (assembly)?
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

1,177
83
i had a rot problem once before. once the roots die they will grow new rood but the dead root will always be dead. out of eight i yarded 3 then did a flush and just fed nytrozyme,hygrozyme and house of garden van heusen root excelerator for a week. its verry spendy but i love the stuff. the other five are doing great and are almost done.

Zymes have a history of being extremely problematic in RDWCs.

You found them helpful?
 
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