HOW TO WATER COCO FOR BEST RESULTS.

[Greenthumbskunk]

To speed up the process im going to dig out some of the wet coco and put in some dry

 

[3 balls]

Ya that was the purpose of watering them even though they looked like they didn't need watering. You know get oxygen down to the roots, read it all the time to water, water ,water.

Guess I'll let them dry out for a few days

Every operation is unique and the variables are endless. You will figure it out. A couple things I will say, in no particular order. Familiarize yourself with the weight of your pots.
If you let them dry out so much that your fan leaves are even drooping, you've done damage.
Be careful when you pot up.
As long as their drinking it, growing fast and looking beautiful, feed as much as you can, it's a good thing.

 

[LuckyLuck]

I have problem with regulating drip cycles so every girl gets same amount of water. Sistem is from 3/4 water pipe with two orbit manifold connected on opposite sides. 5 water sites on each sides with poly tube on sprinkler on right side and diy drip ring on other. Pump is around 1900l/h im not 100% sure. Pump is connected with water hose and garden anti syphon connector to sistem. So when pump kicks in in that moment all site get equal amount of water, after 20 seconds right side drops pressure significantly so i need to water for 4min ://. So now have 2 times on of on same watering so i can get that pressure. My system is missing pressure regulator, do I need one? Is that going to solve my problem? I want to water 1min tops !

 

[Aqua Man]

Just gonna say if your temps are in the lows 70s this method is not for you.

You absolutely MUST optimize the environment if you want to see the best results. If high fertigarion rates are not working for you its likely an environment issue that you need to adjust one way or the other. In the example of temps you either need to raise them or reduce the watering to compensate for less uptake.

Again.... this is assuming light, environment and nutrients have been optimized.... not just sufficient to grow.

 

[Madmax]

To speed up the process im going to dig out some of the wet coco and put in some dry

You will probably damage the roots.coco doesnt take that long to dry out .changing it to dry coco will only make things worse

 

[MIMedGrower]

Just gonna say if your temps are in the lows 70s this method is not for you.

You absolutely MUST optimize the environment if you want to see the best results. If high fertigarion rates are not working for you its likely an environment issue that you need to adjust one way or the other. In the example of temps you either need to raise them or reduce the watering to compensate for less uptake.

Again.... this is assuming light, environment and nutrients have been optimized.... not just sufficient to grow.

just want to say that this is why we have to watch the plants and environment and dial it all in as needed together. I have major shifts in temp and humidity to deal with in west michigan. Keeping the roots warm in winter and the heat down in summer are priorities. Not how many times i can feed. (If i used coco and drippers for example). Once i got a handle on all that then i would learn to ramp things up.

Until i can buy and install my dream walk in fridge converted growroom. :-)

 

[Aqua Man]

just want to say that this is why we have to watch the plants and environment and dial it all in as needed together. I have major shifts in temp and humidity to deal with in west michigan. Keeping the roots warm in winter and the heat down in summer are priorities. Not how many times i can feed. (If i used coco and drippers for example). Once i got a handle on all that then i would learn to ramp things up.

Until i can buy and install my dream walk in fridge converted growroom. :-)

Absolutely.... these plants can grow in immensely different environments and media.

This post was to give info on the optimal feeding for best results in coco... with that said I probably should have included that having an optimal environment is also a requirement.

 

[Madmax]

+ even having the same strain same age plant have there own uptake habits..ive tried everyday ,once every 2days and feed feed feed miss a day feed feed feed etc.was no difference in the last 2 .outcome was the same but missing a day made the ppm go up 100 points and had to run more feed through to get it back down because the salts dried on top..its alot of mucking around...but there is 2 plants that stayed moist and are light drinkers and there ppm out didnt change and one is my best girl..very well behaved lol.so im back to feeding every day..

 

[Greenthumbskunk]

You will probably damage the roots.coco doesnt take that long to dry out .changing it to dry coco will only make things worse

Roots have not grown out any outside of the original pot it come out of.

 

[Greenthumbskunk]

Just gonna say if your temps are in the lows 70s this method is not for you.

You absolutely MUST optimize the environment if you want to see the best results. If high fertigarion rates are not working for you its likely an environment issue that you need to adjust one way or the other. In the example of temps you either need to raise them or reduce the watering to compensate for less uptake.

Again.... this is assuming light, environment and nutrients have been optimized.... not just sufficient to grow.

Hard to get proper Temps in the winter.
In the summer it was tough getting Temps below 90 even with a 4.5 ton air-conditioner.

Since I'm using LEDs now instead of HPS its really hard lol.

 

[gorillaglueaaron]

I'm building a 10"x10"x10"micro box and I'm Thinking about the dimensions of my tray for the coco.
Since the box is only 10" tall, I'm trying to make the tray as short as possible. Right now I'm thinking 9"x9"x2.5" and I'm wondering if 2 is possible or if it needs to be taller?

 

[Mr.GreenthumbOG]

Ya. Winter is the only time I grow indoors.
I don’t like using AC. If it over 20c outside I can’t control environment.
Mr.G

 

[EMC2]

Just finished reading through the entire thread and theres some great info in here.

I currently run straight coco 5 gal. 2 month veg. Currently feeding bulk once every 3/4 days. After reading through the thread, I def need to water more frequently. Next run I think i'll be going down to a 3 gal pot.

My question is, how would you approach plants that feed differently when using micro-feed strategy? I have one plant that would drink a gallon a day right now and another that would drink a gallon over three days. How would i adjust for this if I started micro-feeding multiple times per day? My only thought is to put more drip lines in the heavy feeders to try to balance out the shot times.

Also - lets say I used my heaviest feeder as the baseline for my irrigation events. (Fed based on what it takes to get run off on biggest drinker). That would mean the light feeder would have much more run off than the heavy feeder. How would that effect the light feeder?

 

[Aqua Man]

Just finished reading through the entire thread and theres some great info in here.

I currently run straight coco 5 gal. 2 month veg. Currently feeding bulk once every 3/4 days. After reading through the thread, I def need to water more frequently. Next run I think i'll be going down to a 3 gal pot.

My question is, how would you approach plants that feed differently when using micro-feed strategy? I have one plant that would drink a gallon a day right now and another that would drink a gallon over three days. How would i adjust for this if I started micro-feeding multiple times per day? My only thought is to put more drip lines in the heavy feeders to try to balance out the shot times.

Also - lets say I used my heaviest feeder as the baseline for my irrigation events. (Fed based on what it takes to get run off on biggest drinker). That would mean the light feeder would have much more run off than the heavy feeder. How would that effect the light feeder?

Not really... you are trying to keep a stable ppm in the media. Buy feeding more frequently you will be keeping it more stable. The side effect is waste and thats really all. I would suggest not feeding over 800ppm and for full grown plants 600-800. The nutrients don't build up because you are feeding more often and they are constantly being replaced. It when the pots dry out that the concentration starts to increase.

I also suggest perlite and a quality coco that's well rinsed because that will make a difference in aeration.

 

[EMC2]

Not really... you are trying to keep a stable ppm in the media. Buy feeding more frequently you will be keeping it more stable. The side effect is waste and thats really all. I would suggest not feeding over 800ppm and for full grown plants 600-800. The nutrients don't build up because you are feeding more often and they are constantly being replaced. It when the pots dry out that the concentration starts to increase.

I also suggest perlite and a quality coco that's well rinsed because that will make a difference in aeration.

thanks Aqua.Next run will be 3 gal pots with coco/perlite doing micro feeds. Appreciate your input. Glad to know it’ll just be waste. I’m not too worried about waste so good to know it won’t mess up the light feeders. Thanks

 

[Pondracer]

My question is, how would you approach plants that feed differently when using micro-feed strategy?

I use these. I have similar situations where a couple of plants will get overflow quicker then others. I could dial back those if I want, but honestly things change every week or two so I have not bothered to tweak the flow to individual plants. I could, but I just adjust the timer to get the flow I want off the heaviest drinker. Having a timer that can run in seconds is critical.

MANIFPR9S - Drip Irrigation 9 Port Pressure Regulating Manifold with Adjustable Flow and On/Off

Connects up to nine 1/4" drip irrigation tubes to a 1/2" riser 9-ports with individual levers for on, off or regulated flow Operating pressure: 25 PSI Use to convert an existing underground sprinkler using Rain Bird RCKIT (sold separately) Constructed of UV-resistant durable ABS materials

store.rainbird.com

 

[Aqua Man]

I use these. I have similar situations where a couple of plants will get overflow quicker then others. I could dial back those if I want, but honestly things change every week or two so I have not bothered to tweak the flow to individual plants. I could, but I just adjust the timer to get the flow I want off the heaviest drinker. Having a timer that can run in seconds is critical.

MANIFPR9S - Drip Irrigation 9 Port Pressure Regulating Manifold with Adjustable Flow and On/Off

Connects up to nine 1/4" drip irrigation tubes to a 1/2" riser 9-ports with individual levers for on, off or regulated flow Operating pressure: 25 PSI Use to convert an existing underground sprinkler using Rain Bird RCKIT (sold separately) Constructed of UV-resistant durable ABS materials

store.rainbird.com

Wow good catch that went right over my head... I do the same thing.

 

[SavageSiren420]

Im pretty new at growing. I have experimented in soil and hydro and now trying coco. I seem to struggle with watering schedule in soil. I like the idea of watering more frequently but knowing myself oh so we'll i know there's gonna be days I get lazy. So my thought was could I use hydro spikes or wick cord if I made sure to flush them every day or 2? Trying to stay in 3gal fabric pots maybe 5gal max.

 

[Aqua Man]

Im pretty new at growing. I have experimented in soil and hydro and now trying coco. I seem to struggle with watering schedule in soil. I like the idea of watering more frequently but knowing myself oh so we'll i know there's gonna be days I get lazy. So my thought was could I use hydro spikes or wick cord if I made sure to flush them every day or 2? Trying to stay in 3gal fabric pots maybe 5gal max.

I can't say for sure but I got a feeling that won't be enough. A cheap pump and timer maybe $30-40 and you gave autofeed if it
S only a couple plants

 

[Greenthumbskunk]

Be glad when this is over.