80F in the root zone/water temperature? I think that is a bit high.
In hydro is where it becomes an issue. In coco, soil 75-80f is absolutely perfect also as shown in your chart, my personal experience and some studies. Your absolutely right temps should stay stable and I always suggest watering as close to the rootzone temp as possible to prevent shock. You dont wanna water with high temo water into a cold rootzone thats not what I'm saying. I'm saying we should keep rootzone temps in that range for optimal growth. Not much above 80f things start to go downhill fast but up until then they improve.
Wow thanks for the informations. I'll write this in my grow book 👍👍
Same as indoor... they get along with a little shock. Its only ideal to water at the same temps but not gonna kill em if ya don't. My thought is of we are gonna play GOD let's play it to the nest of our abilities.
Ditto bro I used to use it when my res was outiside my 4x4 room. Now I keep the res in the room and have no need. Insulate the bottom and when you test the temp its almost identical to the root temps.
Haha you and me both bro
Aqua what do u use to avoid pest or flys with the coco coir at 100% of humidity all time?
I dont run 100% humidity. I have a sealed room so I'm mindful of when I go in but I used to keep some yellow stickies around to spot any issues. Always mindful of the media I use because if I dont introduce them then no issues. Personally I haven't had to deal with bugs so my IPM is for lack of a better term piss poor tbh but I haven't found a need to incorporate it yet. Healthy plants, sterile pest free media, good hygiene practices get me by because I my room very well sealed.
Placing an inch layer of Gnat Nix on top of the coco works great to prevent gnats. You can also use a layer of perlite, or sand to accomplish the same thing. Basically you’re preventing the adult gnats from getting back into your coco to lay eggs. I use the yellow sticky traps to monitor the level of infestation.
I really don't know. I've done LST and opened up the branches to make them get even light. Even today I pulled some branches down and tied them to make the canopy more evenish, but it's opening the canopy 'cause the branches don't bend anymore. It's SLH autoflower.
I would like to set up an automatic watering system in the future, for now I can only do hand watering, if it was not such a hassle I would definetely water more than 3.
Hard to say max yield is highly dependent on light and space.
I'd say its eating up the nutes and not watering frequently enough would be my guess. My runoff is consistently lower but only by about 50ppm
So I should feed lower EC to get higher run-off ec? That's weird, I would have never guessed. I read that if the run-off ec gets higher that means that you need to water more often, but my EC is very low so I wouldn't think there would be salt build up. The tips of the leaves shows burning so I think you might be right. I will try a lower EC next time. Right now I'm feeding with a mix around 1500-1600ec. It's on day 56 from sprout, slh autoflower. What ec should I feed? Thank you.
Thats the exact same thing that happened on my first grow.one plant was waay under at 250 ppm when i was feeding around 8-900 ..so gave it more..problems didnt start till flower room and i knew they were getting too much as the plant had tip burn so i flushed and ive been fighting it right through flowering.i was running heaps of runoff so how does it actually build up if are youre running heaps through and was flushing till it was 5-600..this is pretty much the only problem ive had and because of that im feeding 250 ppms once daily and im at 3 weeks and im going to increase it 50 ppms every three days till 6 weeks are up and will b at 650 ppm time i put them in flower room..
