HOW TO WATER COCO FOR BEST RESULTS.

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justice8965

justice8965

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Noticed some spots on the leaves of a couple plants today. Purple and rust colored spots on the top leaves, starting in the middle of the leaf. Some even starting to turn into white spots. Leaves are curling up some too. I raised my lights up last week since I was getting some light stress, but this doesn't seem light related. No changes in PH/nutes/temps. Any ideas?
 
Aqua Man

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Noticed some spots on the leaves of a couple plants today. Purple and rust colored spots on the top leaves, starting in the middle of the leaf. Some even starting to turn into white spots. Leaves are curling up some too. I raised my lights up last week since I was getting some light stress, but this doesn't seem light related. No changes in PH/nutes/temps. Any ideas?
Looks like old damage. How does the new growth look?
 
Madmax

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What are your overnite temps.just thinking you are 3-4 weeks till end of flower and the overnite temps are cooling where you are purpling the leaves?
 
Arkos

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This was a great "cutting edge science" article on flowering I ran into on that site, along with many others. Essentially Tre6P is the "insulin" of plants, and helps to "pull" the sucrose though the cell walls like a hook. Tres6P is a phosphate complex.

View attachment 1163550

I've been titrating a fair amount of simple acids into my solutions of late, also playing around with various ratio's of sugars, hormones, auxins, cytokinin, enzymes, vitamins and cofactors, depending on developmental cycle. More so during flowering, so getting that solution dialed in every time, correctly, especially if anything complex is added in. Then I allow everything to sit for hours up to 24 hours, allowing the pH to reset itself. ie. If any enzymes are added along with proteins, fatty acids, carbs/sugars, or terpenes.

One of my other new sugars I've been toying with is d-ribose,aka ((2R,3R,4S,5R)-5-(hydroxymethyl)oxolane-2,3,4-triol) because of it's role in flowering and because deoxyribose derivative found in DNA differs from ribose by having a hydrogen atom in place of the hydroxyl group at C2'. This hydroxyl group performs a function in RNA splicing. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RNA_splicing

.

View attachment 1163553 View attachment 1163554
Damn that post made my head hurt 🤣
Great info nonetheless, thank you 🙏
 
Frankster

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Yea, looks temp related to me also., usually appears in old growth as aqua suggest. Personally, II think that's a combo interaction of temps, calcium and phosphorus. But that's me purely speculating. It's certainly cultivar dependent to some degree.

Purplish color is due to accumulation of sugars that favors the synthesis of anthocyanin (a purplish-colored pigment) Anthocyanins in particular have shown to protect the plant from rotting due to intense ultraviolet light, drought and cold weather. They also help protect the leaves by using extra sunlight that would normally be absorbed by chlorophyll which is less available in the winter.

I would try slight upping the phosphorus ratio for a few doses and raise temps if possible. In the end, I don't think it's going to hurt you much, TBH, unless perhaps it's still early in the flowering/veg cycle. I'm not exactly sure. Personally, I try and leave the cooler temps (if possible) for mid to late flowering.
 
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justice8965

justice8965

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Thanks guys. It's only appearing on the top most leaves of a couple plants. Temps are around 80 lights on high 60s lights off. It could very well be light damage. I noticed the tops of the tallest colas getting hard and white due to light stress so I moved the lights up quite a bit. That was on Friday or Saturday so it could very well be light stress from before I moved the lights just showing up now. I did up my PK booster coincidentally a day ago since I'm about 4 weeks from harvest so if it's a P issue that should solve it.

All in all not too worried. Plants are the healthiest I've ever had in a grow, and the amount of frost on this In House bred stuff is insane already with a month to go. Couple pics of the platinum gorilla. Even the lower buds are so resiny its like touching goop 😂 can't work in the tent without gloves anymore

Screenshot_20210901-060311_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20210901-060430_Gallery.jpg
 
Frankster

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lookin very frosty. Those look like some fine nugs. Yea, don't worry too much about anything but keeping them nice and happy. No need to push anything beyond what it can handle at any given point. That's one lesson I've unfortunately learned the hard way.

Once your covered in frost, keep the good mojo going, and coast into harvest. By the looks of it, your not all that far off, maybe three or four weeks down the road. I used to push them hard at the end, but these days I'm more inclined to let them down easy, and try for the cleanest/freshest taste possible.

I guess what I'm saying is this, by week four, most of your bulk has taken hold, so building that frost from that point forward should be the main focus and objective going forward. Reducing chances of any stress response should be considered when pushing plants toward the end of cycle. The grow parameters need to be tightly controlled when bringing some aggressive tactics (especially high ppm) anywhere near the finish line.

Simply put, the end stages are always the most delicate, and important aspect of the grow.
 
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justice8965

justice8965

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lookin very frosty. Those look like some fine nugs. Yea, don't worry too much about anything but keeping them nice and happy. No need to push anything beyond what it can handle at any given point. That's one lesson I've unfortunately learned the hard way.

Once your covered in frost, keep the good mojo going, and coast into harvest. By the looks of it, your not all that far off, maybe three or four weeks down the road. I used to push them hard at the end, but these days I'm more inclined to let them down easy, and try for the cleanest/freshest taste possible.

I guess what I'm saying is this, by week four, most of your bulk has taken hold, so building that frost from that point forward should be the main focus and objective going forward. Reducing chances of any stress response should be considered when pushing plants toward the end of cycle. The grow parameters need to be tightly controlled when bringing some aggressive tactics (especially high ppm) anywhere near the finish line.

Simply put, the end stages are always the most delicate, and important aspect of the grow.

Thanks man. Yes this is my first time growing "top shelf" genetics and it shows. Sadly 3 of the 6 plants have very small nugs, which in house is known for. But the quality should be excellent. Smells like a rush of juicy fruit gum the first time I open the tent in the morning.

I'm thinking 4 weeks for the one I showed and one other. 5 for the other 4 plants. They started a little late.

I've kept ppm at 600-700 the whole grow. Definitely won't be changing that, just the ratios as I get farther and farther along in flower. This is the easiest part of the grow nothing to do but wait
 
Aqua Man

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Thanks man. Yes this is my first time growing "top shelf" genetics and it shows. Sadly 3 of the 6 plants have very small nugs, which in house is known for. But the quality should be excellent. Smells like a rush of juicy fruit gum the first time I open the tent in the morning.

I'm thinking 4 weeks for the one I showed and one other. 5 for the other 4 plants. They started a little late.

I've kept ppm at 600-700 the whole grow. Definitely won't be changing that, just the ratios as I get farther and farther along in flower. This is the easiest part of the grow nothing to do but wait
Could be a bit to much light. It's not abnormal to see some redish purple on the top side of petiole even a bit into the leaf under high light. They do have some light stress but honestly they just look like they are being pushed hard.... not a bad thing. They may like a touch less light but they may be fine where they are at.... hard to tell without being there but your definitely walking the line which isn't necessarily a bad thing.
 
Frankster

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Could be a bit to much light. It's not abnormal to see some redish purple on the top side of petiole even a bit into the leaf under high light. They do have some light stress but honestly they just look like they are being pushed hard.... not a bad thing. They may like a touch less light but they may be fine where they are at.... hard to tell without being there but your definitely walking the line which isn't necessarily a bad thing.
So what do you think are the main indicators of lighting stress there aqua, ie.(predominant signs and symptoms) I'm thinking it's one of those things that probably changes somewhat depending on the developmental stage. Say, pushing plants early on, is there usually a point whereas you want to dial things back some?

Do you think that plants can be pushed though early and mid flowering but benefit from having it dialed back some during the ripening stages?
 
Aqua Man

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So what do you think are the main indicators of lighting stress there aqua, ie.(predominant signs and symptoms) I'm thinking it's one of those things that probably changes somewhat depending on the developmental stage. Say, pushing plants early on, is there usually a point whereas you want to dial things back some?

Do you think that plants can be pushed though early and mid flowering but benefit from having it dialed back some during the ripening stages?
I think so... late flower imo they are not photosynthesizing as much. Definitely early to mid flower is the hut em hard point. Even in veg you don't wanna push en to hard.

Typical folding leaves with tip burn that's not nitrogen and slight curl upwards near the tops .
 
Frankster

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I think so... late flower imo they are not photosynthesizing as much. Definitely early to mid flower is the hut em hard point. Even in veg you don't wanna push en to hard.

Typical folding leaves with tip burn that's not nitrogen and slight curl upwards near the tops .
I've been riding these old blueberry clones pretty hard all though veg now for almost a few weeks. I thought they looked a little over watered earlier, and I probably didn't let them dry out as much as I usually would because of inspections, but here they are at this point in time.

Noticing any overt signs here? There certainly notched up. But overall, IMO, decent shape. I try to push that line out of incubation increasing though veg, up through mid flower. Just hit them with 1500ppm today, up from 1350. I'm certainly going to start dialing things back, or backing the lights off during the later stages. I fully agree the plants tolerate as much light once they start the ripening stage. That's where things get much more delicate, no question about that one.
IMG_20210902_011826773.jpg
IMG_20210902_011845312.jpg
 
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Aqua Man

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I've been riding these old blueberry clones pretty hard all though veg now for almost a few weeks. I thought they looked a little over watered earlier, and I probably didn't let them dry out as much as I usually would because of inspections, but here they are at this point in time.

Noticing any overt signs here? There certainly notched up. But overall, IMO, decent shape. I try to push that line out of incubation increasing though veg, up through mid flower. Just hit them with 1500ppm today, up from 1350. I'm certainly going to start dialing things back, or backing the lights off during the later stages. I fully agree the plants tolerate as much light once they start the ripening stage. That's where things get much more delicate, no question about that one.
View attachment 1164092 View attachment 1164093
What's the environment like?

Indoor? They look healthy. Tad bit of stress from heat or light it looks like. But it's not always the cause. Sometimes the lights in a good range but the plant is stressed for other reasons and therefore can handle as much.

They look good though. Your an experienced grower so imo you can get away with pushing harder because you can spot issues early.

I always try to have newer growers play it safe. It's very easy to overdue the light, especially under LED. Seen plants literally stunt dead in thier tracks from that so many times now.

I push mine also but realizing that in veg it's not really worth it to push them to a stressed state for max growth. I mean yeah I push em but not to the max as it's more and more apparent that the health of the plants at flip plays a major, major, major role in how the bud set, stretch and bud development go.
 
iTurniGrow

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What's the environment like?

Indoor? They look healthy. Tad bit of stress from heat or light it looks like. But it's not always the cause. Sometimes the lights in a good range but the plant is stressed for other reasons and therefore can handle as much.

They look good though. Your an experienced grower so imo you can get away with pushing harder because you can spot issues early.

I always try to have newer growers play it safe. It's very easy to overdue the light, especially under LED. Seen plants literally stunt dead in thier tracks from that so many times now.

I push mine also but realizing that in veg it's not really worth it to push them to a stressed state for max growth. I mean yeah I push em but not to the max as it's more and more apparent that the health of the plants at flip plays a major, major, major role in how the bud set, stretch and bud development go.


I've messaged you on the app (not about stuff as I think I got that covered now) just about watering 😁 need your expertise. Will be within 14 days can have it all setup to go 🎈🎉
 
Frankster

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What's the environment like?

Indoor? They look healthy. Tad bit of stress from heat or light it looks like. But it's not always the cause. Sometimes the lights in a good range but the plant is stressed for other reasons and therefore can handle as much.

They look good though. Your an experienced grower so imo you can get away with pushing harder because you can spot issues early.

I always try to have newer growers play it safe. It's very easy to overdue the light, especially under LED. Seen plants literally stunt dead in thier tracks from that so many times now.

I push mine also but realizing that in veg it's not really worth it to push them to a stressed state for max growth. I mean yeah I push em but not to the max as it's more and more apparent that the health of the plants at flip plays a major, major, major role in how the bud set, stretch and bud development go.

Got it. Yea, it's probably been a little on the cool side of late, and wacky inconsistent temps, perhaps. RH has been around 70% since the chop earlier this week, but it was lower, downwards of 45%, but what to do, I do a few foliar here or there to keep them hydrated if I've got flowers to worry about. They've also gone from getting 24 hour light to sometimes sitting in the cupboard for a bit, sitting without ventilation, but those periods were brief. I was going though the inspection these last few days.. I had some Radeon testing, and it was a 3 day ordeal. Everything was put at another location except for the sprouts I started, and these 3 clones..

So when I see those snagletooths along the edges, and high angles, and a bit thinner leaf development early on, is that a sign of severe stress? When I notice that, it's usually blowing up extremely quick, within a short period of time. But it sometimes looks like a strain dependent feature also, so not exactly sure. Usually when I'm ramping it up early on. I try to get a good example pic one day.

That said, Early Stress damage from overlight, is typically going to occur at the serrations first? When the edges/tips get fried first? all along the serration. Is it typically going to show itself in the newer growth, or perhaps in the upper most limbs, or both... ie. Or even the tips themselves.

Understanding the finer ideocracy of damage, cause/effect is highly useful information, IMO.

leaflet_anatomy.jpg


I was ramping them right out of the seedling stage, but I've eased up on that a bit, too. No doubt lot's of this is strain dependent, and other factors.
 
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Aqua Man

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Got it. Yea, it's probably been a little on the cool side of late, and wacky temps, perhaps. They've also gone from getting 24 hour light to sometimes sitting in the cupboards, since I was going though the inspection these last few days.. I had some Radeon testing, and it was a 3 day ordeal. So when I see those snagletooths along the edges, and a bit thinner leaf development early on, is that a sign of severe stress? When I notice that, it's usually blowing up extremely quick, within a short period of time. But it looks like a strain dependent feature also, so not exactly sure. Usually when I'm ramping it up early on.

Early Stress damage from overlight, is going to occur at the serrations first?

View attachment 1164101

I was ramping them right out of the seedling stage, but I've eased up on that a bit, too. No doubt lot's of this is strain dependent, and other factors.
I have rarely seen magnesium be the cause of that also.
 
Goget

Goget

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My plants are on 24/0 light schedule with 4 watering per day evenly spaced 6h apart. Îm gonna switch to 12/12 next weekend should I keep the same watering schedule?
 

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