how do you adjust the ph of the water before you add the nutrientsI like the old 5 gallon paint mixer attached to a drill.
Keep the drill going and slowly add the nutrients. This will help with the particulate that can be found in the bottom.
I also found adjusting your starting water PH before nutrients will have less drift.
Sup guys! I recently got 1lb of RO/Soft formula and brought up my r/o water to .3EC with tap as per instruction. I then added 1g to a 1 gallon jug just see how things would mix up. It seemed to mostly mix up quickly but I could still see very small particles floating around hours later but not alot. It's hard to tell unless you look very close.
I also tried it with straight R/O and got the same results.
Anything to worry about?
how do you adjust the ph of the water before you add the nutrients
meaning how do you know in what way to compensate up or down and by how much so that when you add the nutrients it will stabalize
such as do you bring your water to like 9.5
so that once the nutrients are added it drops to 6.5?
yeah I was thinkin the same thingThis seedling in coco has been getting the RO/Soft formula and just recently got bumped up to .8EC(pH 5.8) and nothing else since I posted my earlier question. So far this stuff is kicking ass. I ordered some Shine, and +life to play around with. They sound promising and I really like the +life application rate. It seems to be very affordable at 5.5g per 10 gallons. Interested to try them out.
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Interesting. I am wondering as well. I suppose one could know how much say 5g per gal would drop their starting waters ph from previous trial and error, so he just adds the same amount of ph down as usual before adding the nutrients? Not really sure if it would work the same or not. If it causes less drift that's really good.
I first fill the reservoir with tap water. Then PH to 5.8 add Cal-Mag to bring my EC to .3 then add HD at 5 grams per gallon. Then adjust PH again.how do you adjust the ph of the water before you add the nutrients
meaning how do you know in what way to compensate up or down and by how much so that when you add the nutrients it will stabalize
such as do you bring your water to like 9.5
so that once the nutrients are added it drops to 6.5?
oh ok understandI first fill the reservoir with tap water. Then PH to 5.8 add Cal-Mag to bring my EC to .3 then add HD at 5 grams per gallon. Then adjust PH again.
I feel doing it this way helps with stabilizing the solution. Compared to adjusting the PH after.
Only reason I use Cal-Mag is my tap water is around 60 ppm and I already had a bottle of it. Or I would use Epsom salts to bring it up to .3 EC.oh ok understand
so are you using CalMg+ from botanicare
also what medium ...coco?
just wondering because I called them to ask about calmg or tap when using ro
he said it was strictly for buffering capabilities and nothing to do with calmg
as VB has a crazy amount of cal and mg in it already
Totally out of context..but if I were to take a stab at why it was said, I'd say it could work if the plants were fed proper up to that point. Would I do it? Maybe as an experiment with one plant. The thing HR is constantly battling is folks claiming a one part has too much N. But my plants fade perfect on this stuff..even fade while still being fed. Shit is a clean line..I flush for less time than I used to and I'm in peat. BTW Shine has a bit more to it than just PK..I use it gladly and I always hated using PK boosters.Saw this comment on instagram recently and wanted to talk about it. Specifically hydroponic reseachers comment.
Lets assume were talking about a strain you chop at exactly 9 weeks and were gonna flush the last 7 days. And lets say full strength is 5g vb base and 1g shine. Am i reading what he said right? Would you be nervous to try cutting the base out at day 35 and just running 1g of shine for weeks 6-8?
Or would you need to increase the rate of shine?
Saw this comment on instagram recently and wanted to talk about it. Specifically hydroponic reseachers comment.
Lets assume were talking about a strain you chop at exactly 9 weeks and were gonna flush the last 7 days. And lets say full strength is 5g vb base and 1g shine. Am i reading what he said right? Would you be nervous to try cutting the base out at day 35 and just running 1g of shine for weeks 6-8?
Or would you need to increase the rate of shine?
looks like P lockout from high calcium levelsI was hoping I could get some help! thank you all for your time! I am using R/O water and Running Canna Coco with VegBloom Ro/soft with Botanicare CalMag+. I began by raising my EC to .2 with the Cal-Mag then i added in my 5grams per gal of the veg bloom. Since I am running coco i figured i would need to add in more cal-mag after buffering and after adding my veg+bloom. so in total i ended up adding in 3ml per gallon of the cal-mag. My ph is consistently 5.9 going in however I notticed my leaves showing symptoms of nutrient burn or calcium deficiency/lock out. I can't put my finger on exatly what is wrong. I did a slurry test of my coco and the ph is 6.3. which is very confusing to me. I'm not to sure how to correct my problem or were exactly i went wrong? Any advice would be greatly apperciated!
sweet nice info man thanks my 2 lbs of vb ro/soft gets here today! cant wait to start playing around with it i was feeding emerald harvest and my plants are eating 1500 ppms and in coco too. ph at 6.1 would i just do the 5grams per gal? i run 5 gallon buckets of water i hand feed.. my ec was 3 when i fed not to much of a burn but just right! should i lower the dose or ppms?Indeed I think you are using too much calcium like wisher69 said. I am running the exact same style as you. R/O water, Veg+Bloom RO/Soft, and Coco Coir except I don't use any calmag. It's just not needed as the formula has everything already.
It's pretty strong too. A little goes a long way in coco. My plants aren't super big right now but I'm only using about 2.5g per gallon which gets me to about 1.0EC(or 500ppm). I do bring my R/O water up to .2-.3EC(100-150ppm) with tap water like the instructions say.
I'd go with the same thing as stated above. A good flush and 3-4g per gallon instead of 5g if they are bigger. Run off PH and EC are misleading. Just keep pHing as normal.
Plenty of cal in it.
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sweet nice info man thanks my 2 lbs of vb ro/soft gets here today! cant wait to start playing around with it i was feeding emerald harvest and my plants are eating 1500 ppms and in coco too. ph at 6.1 would i just do the 5grams per gal? i run 5 gallon buckets of water i hand feed.. my ec was 3 when i fed not to much of a burn but just right! should i lower the dose or ppms?
Thanks man for breaking it down! I forgot yea im on tap 0 ppm .1 ecRight on! I've never used emerald harvest, but I love the simplicity of veg+bloom so far. Your plants must be monsters as that's a heavy feed. I have not done a full dose yet at 5g but I'd estimate with a starting water of almost .3EC(150ppm) that a full dose would sit somewhere around 1.8EC(900ppm). I'm hesitant to recommend going above the full dose. I will say I have read a few accounts of people going above it though, but I'd probably just start at the regular 4-5g.
I know nothing about emerald harvest or if combining both nutrients in your coco would affect anything. I'd be more inclined to tell you to finish out your current run with emerald harvest and start your next run with veg+bloom, but that's totally up to you. Good luck!
your ec was 3?sweet nice info man thanks my 2 lbs of vb ro/soft gets here today! cant wait to start playing around with it i was feeding emerald harvest and my plants are eating 1500 ppms and in coco too. ph at 6.1 would i just do the 5grams per gal? i run 5 gallon buckets of water i hand feed.. my ec was 3 when i fed not to much of a burn but just right! should i lower the dose or ppms?
Plants took it im running some frosted cherry cookies banana breath f1 buckeye purple in 3 gallonyour ec was 3?
that is insane......
looks like P lockout from high calcium levels
but I dont know much
what I do know is VB has 10% Ca by it self
adding more isnt a good thing
you are just exacerbating the problem
dont worry about slurry test
what is your ec/ppm of your feed and what type of enviroment do you have
my rec would be
drop your VB to 4g per gal no calmg and ph to 6.0
and flush your coco with it 3x the volume of the pot
then let the coco dry to 50% and feed to 10% runoff with 4g per gal
break off all the bad looking leaves and consentrate on the new development
should take a week to recover but that should do the trick
remember...your plants usually won't show for a few days to a week and then it will be to late......Plants took it im running some frosted cherry cookies banana breath f1 buckeye purple in 3 gallon
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