justiceman
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All you can really do is just keep your airflow high at this point. If it's just a little bit you'll probably be fine. Interesting I had some GG4 cuts I was going to run but they came to me with PM so I threw them out. I know this because none of my other plants had it then nor have it now. I'm wondering if GG4 is just particularly susceptible to PM? If so I don't like that as a trait at all. Looks like some great smoke though.Week 5 on this Gg#4 from midnight clones sure did a lot of stretching, it's about 1foot and a half from these de bulbs
Everything was all good and gravy till la decided to get a whole week of rain and spiked up the humidity in my room and got powder mildew -.- wondering if I can still fix this problem or is it to late ?
Week 5 on this Gg#4 from midnight clones sure did a lot of stretching, it's about 1foot and a half from these de bulbs
Everything was all good and gravy till la decided to get a whole week of rain and spiked up the humidity in my room and got powder mildew -.- wondering if I can still fix this problem or is it to late ?
Those are the words of truth!Damn near every MAJOR battle I have ever had to fight has come from taking in cuts. No more......there are too many great seeds out there that I can pheno hunt through.
I have a question for youI have not used it at all. Been running the RO/Soft formula in coco with no calcium or magnesium issues.
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I have a question for you
what are you using in grams per gal
I am having major issues with this stuff
I am in coco
and my shit is yellowing out as well as burning at the same time
never seen it before
I have been using the RO for about a month and when I switched to bloom is when they really started to yellow out
I am using @4g a gal with a starting ec .3 with calmg
just wondering what you are running as your plants look alot better than mine
ok so here it goesYo! Ok here goes. My starting water is about .1EC(50ppm) and I've been using it at roughly 3g per gal which lands me .8EC(400ppm) but I like to pay more attention to the EC. If I don't hit my mark I dilute with water or add a bit more powder so that's why I'm saying roughly. I just bumped them up to about 3.5g and that's landing me just slightly above 1.0EC(500ppm)
Are you seeing anything like the picture below? I noticed when I fed my seedlings a little too much I started to see this lockout but when i backed off on strength it never progressed. This stuff is pretty damn strong and it's got everything in it including cal and mag. I want to say that you adding calmag with veg+bloom is possibly causing lockout since you're starting water is already .3EC which is pretty much ideal as is. I know some people do it but I think it's one or the other. 0.0EC water with calmag, or .3EC without calmag.
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That being said to drive the point home that I don't think calmag is necessary with these nutrients here are my girls from a couple days ago
.1EC starting water currently at 1.0EC. Just Veg+Bloom RO formula, with occasional applications of +Life. 100% coco Nothing else.
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ok so here it goes
my starting water is roughly 16ppm
I called Chris @Hydroponic research
he told me to bump my starting ec to .3
and he told me to use Botanicare Calmg @3ml per gal which brings me right to .3 ec
I then run 4g per gal
I am not seeing what you were showing which is def a calmg def
the cal being the dark spots and the Mg being the lightning of the chlorophyll on the edges
what I am getting is a complete yellowing of the plant
if you look at your picture
the new leaves comming out that are slightly yellow before they grow out
well my entire plant is that color and the edges are dieing as well as the tips are turned down like as if they have N toxicity
but they dont
cant snap a picture right now because they are in lights out during the day
I do have a picture I can post when they just started
Oh i see what you're saying. I thought you had a starting water of .3EC and then were adding calmag on top of that my mistake. You are bringing up your water to .3EC with calmag. Gotcha!
That picture was to kind of point out that adding too much calmag can cause lockout therefore causing a deficiency, but I don't think that's the case with you since your starting water is pretty much 0.0EC. I'm still weary about adding calmag with these nutrients though.
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As you know it's quite abundant in calmag already.
This is an excerpt from an email I had with them recently.
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I wonder why they have 2 recommendations for base water. Surely there is a vast difference between using tap water or mixing calmag into RO. That being said I don't bring my water up to 100ppm it stays at 50ppm because my RO filter isn't very good LOL.
Ya I'd like to see what they look like. Both pictures would be cool.
so you can see the color that my plants start out at
that deep green is what I am used to
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you see how light they are here and if you look in the back left there are a few deep green leaves still
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see how the color is really light green
this was from a week ago
half the leaves have died out now
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my ec is 1.6 and my ph is @ a solid 6.0 which I have always run at
and the fact that there are 4 differ strains in there exibiting the same issueI think your on the right track backing off the light for the moment.
But my gut says that might be more to it than that.
But I guess it's just because it's the WHOLE plant affected. Like its uptake issue.
the ph stabalizers they use need something to work against to stabalizeOh i see what you're saying. I thought you had a starting water of .3EC and then were adding calmag on top of that my mistake. You are bringing up your water to .3EC with calmag. Gotcha!
That picture was to kind of point out that adding too much calmag can cause lockout therefore causing a deficiency, but I don't think that's the case with you since your starting water is pretty much 0.0EC. I'm still weary about adding calmag with these nutrients though.
View attachment 668311
As you know it's quite abundant in calmag already.
This is an excerpt from an email I had with them recently.
View attachment 668313
I wonder why they have 2 recommendations for base water. Surely there is a vast difference between using tap water or mixing calmag into RO. That being said I don't bring my water up to 100ppm it stays at 50ppm because my RO filter isn't very good LOL.
Ya I'd like to see what they look like. Both pictures would be cool.
the ph stabalizers they use need something to work against to stabalize
or so I was told
I feel the same wayYup I have heard the same thing from them. From what I understand the carbonates and bicarbonates in tap water are what cause the stabilization. Even though they say that adding calmag will achieve the same result I don't understand how that's possible since calmag is mostly calcium nitrate which happens to be the first ingredient on their guaranteed analysis label of the base nute itself. I'm thinking adding tap water up to 100ppm provides a solution pH that has more stability than 100ppm of calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate.
https://books.google.com/books?id=c...ium bicarbonate hydroponic stabilizer&f=falseYup I have heard the same thing from them. From what I understand the carbonates and bicarbonates in tap water are what cause the stabilization. Even though they say that adding calmag will achieve the same result I don't understand how that's possible since calmag is mostly calcium nitrate which happens to be the first ingredient on their guaranteed analysis label of the base nute itself. I'm thinking adding tap water up to 100ppm provides a solution pH that has more stability than 100ppm of calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate.
Nice link that will be good for all here to see. Guess it's kinda convenient my ro puts out at 50ppm.https://books.google.com/books?id=cVG0v8rbqlsC&pg=PA121&lpg=PA121&dq=calcium+bicarbonate+hydroponic+stabilizer&source=bl&ots=tuNlISMSHR&sig=lD1iQ2d1xAbSiDkzPE43-kZia08&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi5y63O6IvSAhVDhlQKHdvvCIwQ6AEIJjAB#v=onepage&q=calcium bicarbonate hydroponic stabilizer&f=false
this explain that having a working raw water of at least 50ppm with bicarbonates allows the nutrient solution to stabalize in the proper range instead of dropping
that link states the potassium bi-carbonate is a great source for ph stabalizationNice link that will be good for all here to see. Guess it's kinda convenient my ro puts out at 50ppm.
We want carbonates and bicabonates for stabalization not nitrates.
that link states the potassium bi-carbonate is a great source for ph stabalization
Earth Juice natural up is potassium bi-carbonate
I am honna mix some up to see what will give me 50ppm and then add 4g Veg+Bloom and see where that leaves me and how stable the ph is
cutting with tap wouldn't be the best thing for meI want to say the general take away is the carbonate/bicarbonate part is whats most important.
I'm interested to see what your findings are with the ej ph up. I still say some good old tap mixed in at .1-.2EC is best but if the ej ph up makes it makes it more stable that would be nice.
At 1.0EC without adjustment I'm at 6.3. I pH down to 5.8 and let it drift back up to about 6.0 maybe 6.1. That usually takes a couple days for it to drift up.
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