I have a BIG problem! The light I bought.. isn't gonna cut it!!!

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BruisedBugballs

BruisedBugballs

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Sunlike Full Spectrum Grow Light for Indoor Plants with 336packs
You know the sun spectrum changes throughout the year, yes?

This is why full spectrum lights were not in use for very long time. If spectrum doesnt not change between veg and bloom, I would not toke that joint. You can't lie to a plant. You can only lie to internet. Plant need signal of seasonal change or cannot process P properly.
 
N1ghtL1ght

N1ghtL1ght

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Really? So how does a plant process P when you just keep it in veg?
Why would HLG, a company with limited Cannabis lighting experience (based in Alabama) make such drastic changes over the years? Surely they begin dumb, and get smarter, yes?
Usually the introduction of exsessive 660nm is to have a higher photon-fixture-efficacy. It has zero to do with quality but solely with carbon-fixation. What I'm stumped is that fixture efficacy is even lower as it progresses, which really doesn't make much sense to begin with as diodes should get better over time, not worse. Have these numbers been gathered by a test in an Ulbricht-sphere?
 
Fairytalez

Fairytalez

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Hey guys.. what do you think about supplementing my light during flower with either this..

Or maybe a couple of these..


Or lastly.. one of these?..


Just curious really. Since like the gentlemen above did make a good point, with the fact that plants DO need to see a difference in seasons with the 660. As for the 850.. isn't that IR? If memory serves me right.. IR (which yes I know my light already has) helps with terpene production. My main concern would be the addition of the 660 red. I'm in the thought that adding even just a little during flower MAY make for some better flower production.
But then.. again.. I'm no guru :)
 
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Fairytalez

Fairytalez

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I really liked the first and second thing I posted there. The second one being JUST 660nm and the ability to just plug them in wherever you want is a bonus too. All in all.. I probably won't be able to get any of these things, considering the fact that I still need to buy a few more bags of happy frog and ocean forest. Speaking of! I keep hearing people say that ocean forest is way too hot. What I'm planning on doing is cutting the ocean forest with some happy frog. Crossing fingers that that works out great. The guy at the store originally told me he had had this stuff called green fields (I think that's the name?). But I just spoke to him a bit earlier and he said he sold out of it. Gonna go next week and crossing fingers he re-uped on it. Cause of all the numerous numerous people speaking about the hotness of ocean forest.
Do any of you guys have anything to say about ocean forest, or can maybe suggest a better one? Maybe one you have been able to trust in better?
 
RootsRuler

RootsRuler

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I've used them all and have found no real appreciable difference in regards to performance. I like to use Roots Organic Original formula. Why do I think it's the best for my situation? Because I'm lazy and I like using liquid fertilizers. It also has added Mycorrhizae which is a plus in my book. After this next harvest I might try Roots Organic LUSH mix and attempt an organic grow.

If I were you I wouldn't cut with Happy Frog. It is also a highly fortified mix so you'd be mixing too hot with sorta hot. Better to either start your seedlings in base mix for seedlings and transplant into hotter ferts once the roots are established or start your seed or clone in a rockwool cube to eliminate any chance of nutrient burn.
 
Fairytalez

Fairytalez

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I've used them all and have found no real appreciable difference in regards to performance. I like to use Roots Organic Original formula. Why do I think it's the best for my situation? Because I'm lazy and I like using liquid fertilizers. It also has added Mycorrhizae which is a plus in my book. After this next harvest I might try Roots Organic LUSH mix and attempt an organic grow.

If I were you I wouldn't cut with Happy Frog. It is also a highly fortified mix so you'd be mixing too hot with sorta hot. Better to either start your seedlings in base mix for seedlings and transplant into hotter ferts once the roots are established or start your seed or clone in a rockwool cube to eliminate any chance of nutrient burn.
Ummm.. happy frog hot? You are the very first person I have ever heard say that. In fact.. the hefty majority of people I have seen have said that they needed to add nutes to their happy frog, or that they definitely needed to add it after a single month because it lacks nutes. Have you actually burned your plants before with happy frog?
 
RootsRuler

RootsRuler

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Ummm.. happy frog hot? You are the very first person I have ever heard say that. In fact.. the hefty majority of people I have seen have said that they needed to add nutes to their happy frog, or that they definitely needed to add it after a single month because it lacks nutes. Have you actually burned your plants before with happy frog?
Both FF and HF will sustain your plant for around 6 - 8 weeks feeding it only water. The Roots Organic soil I use will do the same thing. When you read this about Happy Frog did you ask them what genetics they had running when their HF underperformed to their expectations? Genetics, among other things, has a part to play in how much nutrient is removed from the soil. Also, in soil you have organic matter breaking down into soluble ions for the plant to take up. Was any beneficial fungi or bacteria introduced that facilitated ion uptake? There are many other factors that have almost nothing to do with media that make your plant flourish.

Growing weed is all about what works for you in the situation you're in. I get that you're trying to start out with the best but with growing it's more about technique than gear. Is some gear better than others? It depends on all the other factors you have going on. I've seen amazing grows done with nothing more than an umbrella light and some 3 mil plastic bought at Home Depot.

Short answer? Any of those soil media will do phenomenally for you. It really comes down to your own personal preference. Same with your light. You have more than enough there to have a successful grow. The far right you're asking about isn't going to make an appreciable difference overall. Perhaps if you were trying to grow for a Cannabis Cup then, certainly, you're going to be judged with a microscope so you need to be beyond on point and employ as much as you can to push your genetics to there fullest.

Start with a basic setup and learn what works for you. There is no one "BEST" because everyone has a different benchmark and a different way of doing things.
 
Fairytalez

Fairytalez

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Both FF and HF will sustain your plant for around 6 - 8 weeks feeding it only water. The Roots Organic soil I use will do the same thing. When you read this about Happy Frog did you ask them what genetics they had running when their HF underperformed to their expectations? Genetics, among other things, has a part to play in how much nutrient is removed from the soil. Also, in soil you have organic matter breaking down into soluble ions for the plant to take up. Was any beneficial fungi or bacteria introduced that facilitated ion uptake? There are many other factors that have almost nothing to do with media that make your plant flourish.

Growing weed is all about what works for you in the situation you're in. I get that you're trying to start out with the best but with growing it's more about technique than gear. Is some gear better than others? It depends on all the other factors you have going on. I've seen amazing grows done with nothing more than an umbrella light and some 3 mil plastic bought at Home Depot.

Short answer? Any of those soil media will do phenomenally for you. It really comes down to your own personal preference. Same with your light. You have more than enough there to have a successful grow. The far right you're asking about isn't going to make an appreciable difference overall. Perhaps if you were trying to grow for a Cannabis Cup then, certainly, you're going to be judged with a microscope so you need to be beyond on point and employ as much as you can to push your genetics to there fullest.

Start with a basic setup and learn what works for you. There is no one "BEST" because everyone has a different benchmark and a different way of doing things.
But question.. isn't happy frog meant primarily for veg, while Ocean Forest is meant for flower?
Also yes.. I DO have some hybrid organic liquid nutes just in case. Not to mention a bloom booster for during flower that I'm sure will do amazingly well with the CO2. I've never grown with a CO2 tank before.. so this is a BIG event for me lol years ago.. me and the now ex wife grew this stuff called Ice. I had went to a dry ice place and asked the guy if he just had a small piece.. like a sliver if you will.. that he could sell me. Well.. I wound up placing that sliver of dry ice.. about a pound and a half.. not big at all.. right above my light, so that the CO2 could fall on my plants. 24 hours later.. I became a believer! My plants just went BOOM!!! Grew phenomenally in just that short period of time. So I can only imagine what a tank pumping 1500ppm through a controller into my space is gonna do. As in.. if only a sliver of dry ice did THAT.. holyyy crap batman! That's should be INTENSE! But don't worry.. definitely not gonna be using any PGR's in my grow. I wanna stay as close to organic as possible. This hybrid organic grow stuff looks to be promising. So.. we shall see. I went on a junky like rage at Herbie's Seeds buying all kindsss of fem seeds. I even bought THE most powerful Indica in the world from there. Called Grand Mommy Purple. It's like 33% or possibly higher. But like.. damn! Lol I'm just so excited. I'm not actually gonna even grow that one first. As my tolerance isn't THAT high yet. The one I'm planning on growing first is this one called Black Cherry Punch.
You can see it's purple beauty and it's odd shaped nugs here. Lookie lookie! :)
 
RootsRuler

RootsRuler

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Both were developed for seed to flower. Each has a little different NPK ratio but pretty much the same.

This is the thing. I can plant a particular genetic in Happy Frog and it'll blow up yet I put it in Fox Farm and for some reason it just doesn't like it and gives you problems throughout. In the eyes of the gardener Happy Frog is the bomb and Fox Farms sucks yet we know, through others experience, that Fox Farms most certainly DOESN'T suck but the gardener will post his experience and claim that his post is fact because that's what happened to him. So many factors other than soil could have made that happen but he blames it on the soil without really understanding what went wrong. This is why I take opinions on the internet with a grain of salt. Until I can verify that this person knows what they're talking about I'll listen but I won't take it as truth unless I can independently verify or I've experienced the same thing myself under the same conditions.

CO2.

The enclosure you built is going to have a hard time keeping PPM up every time you open the door. 100lb tank is too much. A 25 lb aluminum tank should last you at least a month but it all depends on how tight your enclosure is. You don't want that shit leaking into your bedroom(I'm assuming that's where you built your box).

I'm not sure what to say about your experience because what you described is contrary to what should happen unless there is something you left out. A pound of dry ice isn't going to do what you described. Not sure what happened in that grow that induced that kind of growth but I think I can say that the dry ice wasn't what did it.

What are you planning on doing for air circulation in your box? How will you exhaust heat and humidity out of the box? These two questions are going to put a dent in your CO2 idea.
 
Fairytalez

Fairytalez

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Both were developed for seed to flower. Each has a little different NPK ratio but pretty much the same.

This is the thing. I can plant a particular genetic in Happy Frog and it'll blow up yet I put it in Fox Farm and for some reason it just doesn't like it and gives you problems throughout. In the eyes of the gardener Happy Frog is the bomb and Fox Farms sucks yet we know, through others experience, that Fox Farms most certainly DOESN'T suck but the gardener will post his experience and claim that his post is fact because that's what happened to him. So many factors other than soil could have made that happen but he blames it on the soil without really understanding what went wrong. This is why I take opinions on the internet with a grain of salt. Until I can verify that this person knows what they're talking about I'll listen but I won't take it as truth unless I can independently verify or I've experienced the same thing myself under the same conditions.

CO2.

The enclosure you built is going to have a hard time keeping PPM up every time you open the door. 100lb tank is too much. A 25 lb aluminum tank should last you at least a month but it all depends on how tight your enclosure is. You don't want that shit leaking into your bedroom(I'm assuming that's where you built your box).

I'm not sure what to say about your experience because what you described is contrary to what should happen unless there is something you left out. A pound of dry ice isn't going to do what you described. Not sure what happened in that grow that induced that kind of growth but I think I can say that the dry ice wasn't what did it.

What are you planning on doing for air circulation in your box? How will you exhaust heat and humidity out of the box? These two questions are going to put a dent in your CO2 idea.
Well as I stated earlier.. as far as temperature is concerned.. I have a dual hose portable A/C that I'm gonna put in there with it's exhaust hose going through the wall, then out to the window. It being a dual hose means that cooler air from outside comes through one hose, cools off the machinery inside the unit, then shoots that now heated air out the other tube.. back out the window. And the unit.. again being a dual hose.. means that the unit itself is going to be sucking air through intake holes it has on it's sides.. from inside Duh Box (CO2 and all), cooling it to whatever temperature I want (It goes as low as 60°), and then spitting that cooled air back into Duh Box. So there isn't ANY loss of CO2. As far as fresh air goes.. ya don't need it in a sealed grow. That's literally exactly how these designs work. When you have the CO2.. you're good to go. Now as far as how I am going to seal it.. the doors.. when they go up against Duh Box.. they will be pushed and sealed kinda like a refrigerator. In that.. there is gonna be 1" of D seal, that makes the seal. Then there is clamps mounted all over.. up, down, on the sides, the bottom, and yes even the top.. EVERYTHING.. is sealed. Trust me.. I like breathing oxygen. It's an addiction I don't want to give up lol
But yeah.. trust me.. this has been in the process of being built for over a year now. Making sure I have every single thing.. perfect. I went ALL OUT on this project. And I will also have EVERYTHING inside and outside of it being monitored. I even have a CO2 detector that I can set an alarm at whatever PPM of CO2 amount I would feel would mean some kind of leak, to warm me IF that were to ever happen. That one is going on my wall right below on the side of my bed. Other detectors for CO2, RH, Temperature,, etc etc.. I have multiple Bluetooth enabled devices that monitor, and alarms that give me fails safes if one of the other devices stops working. I even have a flood monitor that's makes a VERYYY loud screeching sound, if for some reason I would have any flooding in the room. The only fail safe left to buy that I'm planning on getting soon is this little box thing. It's about the size of a pack of cigarettes. But what it is.. is a fire extinguisher I'm planning on sticking it on the ceiling directly above the light, and IF there is a fire (Knock on some serious 🪵!) then this thing goes off and showers the area with flame retardant stuff.. just like you see on fire extinguishers that you would use in case of emergency. So.. like I said man.. I've been planning and building for WELL over a year now. Still building it but.. I think it's almost finished. And.. if the Good Lord allows me to be live long enough, I am going to pray and ask Him to bless my first crop in Duh Box. Do you have any more questions?
I dunno if you saw all the pictures I took of it earlier but if you go to the first page on this thread, you can see them there.
 
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Fairytalez

Fairytalez

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Found this to supplement your far red light, plus your plant will enjoy it as it dances the night away.
LED Ball Bulb Lamp, 3W E27 LED RGB Crystal Rotating Stage Bulb Voice Auto Rotating Stage Light https://a.co/d/bFP4S9Q
Lol that was hilarious 😂
But in all honesty.. right now I am trying to find a good/cheap light to use for my seedlings. Ya see.. I bought one of those seedling domes right. Except this one.. is completely made of hard plastic. See threw hard plastic, that's sits on a dark tray. And you can add levels to it to make it even taller. Well anyways.. there are two lights that I'm looking at really. This one..


Which I don't know if it's gonna be able to provide enough light to my seedlings whenever they go into solo cups inside the industrial plastic dome thing I got, for whenever I have to add the panels to it to make the dome taller. It IS pretty cheap though.

The one I am reallyyy looking at the most is this one..


It should have enough power, coverage, and all that good stuff when it comes to starting my seedlings out. I think it's much nicer. It's ALSO the one with the most wattage out of all of that style of light (The bendy kind).
 
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Saint1

Saint1

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I would say.... Relax. That light is way better than mine.... And I grow so wicked good weed. I'm not saying the new technology isn't worth trying if you can.... but it's not necessary. People have been growing BIG flowering weed without it too. (its only 1 part of the process) the word I use.... is VARIABLES. There are soooo many that people tend to over complicate things. Its a process.... but it can be a fairly simple one too. Lots of variables.... but simplify them.
 
S

sungrownthree

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Late response, but by now you have realized the light you purchased is bad ass!!! It is either overclocked or under advertised because the SK7000 has a flower footprint of about 6' at 36" full blast. Larger foot print if your growing autos.

Plenty of far red. You do not want to much, it would not be good for the grow.

I bought 8 of these lights.

I got them for such a steal---ridiculous.

I have a 12x 12 grow room. I run 3 daisy chain and I never turn the dimmer past 50%.

It does run hot, but anything that shined this bright runs hot.

But you already know this now!!!
 
jetbtkng

jetbtkng

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There's almost every horticultural website delivering false information in an attempt to sway a potential buyer to their own brands, with one of these arguments is by spectrum talk, either "we have FR for Emerson" or "we have no green as chl doesn't absorb that" [sic!] or whatever.... The problem isn't the spectrum but the advertising....

I'm not really sure to what SPDs or lamps you refer when stating they did so without the benefit of FRL? As all HIDs contain quite an effective dosage of FRL and even white LED have something like 3-5% on board, it depends a bit on CRI and K temp. One would have to use a "NASA" light made out of solely monochromatics to not have FRL in the SPD.

Now when I write FRL is very effective then this could mean a number of things, one is the selectively excitation of photosystem I (PSI) that starts when the absorption of PSII sharply declines at around 680nm, which is where its funnels core (p860) has its max-absorption peak. Still, a bit of FRL is absorbed by PSII, but only about 1 out of 10 photons, the rest is increasingly absorbed by PSI.
Now this is much of a greater difference as the ratio of PSII:PSI absorbance in the PAR region. Thus, FRL is very effective to do away with the exciton overflow happening at the binding site where PSII hands over electrons to PSI.

You can see this here:
View attachment 1337793
^^ for a leaf (it really doesn't matter if it's lettuce as chloroplasts/photosystems are similar for all plant species), what's important is the reduced fluorescence when FRL is introduced, as that is a very strong indicator of a better photochemistry (less exciton loss via fluorescence),

or here:
View attachment 1337795
Which shows the famous "Emerson-enhancement effect" on a sunflower leaf,

or here:
View attachment 1337796
Which shows net canopy carbon gain in a rigorous approach with or w/o supplemented farred light, and very interestingly, the small arrows also show the decrease in photosynthesisrate when the supplemented FRL was dropped shortly. Now this very drop is bigger in the "RB+FRL" setup than in the "White+FRL" setup - because Bugbee used a warmwhite 3000k spectrum for this, which contained already (IIRC) 5% FRL (the RB next to none).
In other words, we can even discriminate between the longterm effects of FRL on the habitus of a given plant (also including bigger leaf-size from the phytochrome effect) against its immediate effect on the photosynthesis rate.

But there are many ways to illustrate effects of light and it is true that it is only PAR light 400-700nm that is crucially needed for plants to acquire mass. If FRL lacks, then one antenna of PSII can wander to support PSI with excitons to due away with this overflow (you see this also evident in the first 2 pics where the fluorescence slowly drops).
lol, thats too danm complicated, just buy a good grow light doesnt need to break the bank im using phizon lights, cheap & working great, this is to the OP...
 
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