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Agree, newts are at the end of the list, but I do add TM-7LIGHTs = FOOD..Nutes = Vitamins..
Better buds need better lights and grower skills..Nutes come in 3rd!
do you make your triacontanol ? I believe that Mammonth and Massive Bloom have this in themThere are only a few additives that really work and none of them is anything near a "game changer" or something. They are all scientifically proven to work.
There are no magic bottles, otherwise they would be standard in Horticulture.
A plant is not an engine. You can't supercharge it. plain and simple.
Most stuff with profound effects has nasty pgrs or the like in it and if you really want to use those use them pure and know exactly what you got.
Most "Grower nutrient lines" with their tens of bottles are a rip off big time, often the bottle of the 50-100$ stuff costs the manufacturer more than what's in it. Don't fall for that!
If you want to "step your game up" start to know more about what your doing!
Start with basic biology and horticulture knowledge.
Don't compare nutrient lines, compare what's in them. Get to know your ppms of everything in your nutrient solution. Hydrobuddy with the function "calculate from weight" is a good tool to start.
Then you can fine tune your nutrients but more important your environment till you reach the genetic potential of your cultivars. That's all there is. More isn't possible. No Turbochargers in the plant world!
Additives that work, tried and true, scientific proven stuff (and cheap without the fancy bottle), Google and read up to know more about them. Lots of studies on G. scolar:
- Fulvic acid and potassium humate * powder - Nutrient uptake, auxin like effects, general vitality/health.
- Amino acids * agri/horticulture grade - Ca uptake, good form of N, drought and salt resistance.
- Ascophyllum Nodosum, not just any "kelp" * agri/horti grade powder - has aminos, sugars, vitamins and a lot of plant hormones like cytokinins, general plant vitality, bushier plants, good for stressed plants.
- Chitosan * agri/horti or reagent grade powder (lactate/acetate/glutamate - water soluble!) - great stuff, helps with general plant health, mysterious deficiencies just disappear, more resin, SAR, mold and mildew resistance and on and on.
- UVC light treatment * build your own cheap, but take precautions, you don't want any contact! - kills spores and nasty stuff, induces SAR, induces jasmonic acid/jasmonate production, more smell more resin, my plants love it. But don't burn em with it, start slowly, take a plant to experiment. I give mine a treatment per week.
- Worm casting tea sprayed till early/mid flower * make your own - general health, no bud rot no mildew.
- Triacontanol * reagent grade or whatever - kind of plant steroid for a short burst of extra power, helps with budsetting and with more resin, active ingredient in most boosters that don't contain harmful nasty pgrs.
If you learn to use your basic nutrients and those additives listed nobody even with a hundred bottles will be outgrowing you except he has way better genetics/environment!
As someone said already:
If you want to be a better grower learn to be a better grower. That is hard work and no bottle whatsoever can replace hours of learning the basics of gardening/biology/horticulture and not to forget the years of experience!
Edit:
Monopotassium phosphate has way too much P, you can use dipotassium phosphate or tripotassium phosphate (sp?) instead!
Thanks!
And right, forgot the micro/trace elements in Potassium humate (It's often very high in Iron, mine is 1%! fulvic acid perhaps too, don't know), any Kelp like Asco. Nodosum and Worm tea.
But for me that's a double edged sword, I don't really like things with unknown composition. But with those natural products you have no choice.
Some liquid products may be nice, out of habit I use algamic from biobizz.
But the powder/dry products have the great benefit of a nearly unlimited shelf life if properly stored and that's a very big one for me! If I buy a kilo/2 pounds it lasts maybe up to a decade with my micro grows these days.
And as most of those things are given best by foliar feeding you don't need much.
What is TM7 plz?Agree, newts are at the end of the list, but I do add TM-7
All fertilizers contain heavy metals, mineral fertilizers and organic fertilizers.
Real soil contains heavy metals as well and sometimes quite a lot and I'd bet soilless mixes and coco too.
Some of them, like Fe, Cu, Mo, Mn etc, are essential for plants (and for almost every living thing...).
So it's really about what exactly and the amount, you have to look at it very differentiated.
It's not that easy I'm afraid.
It would be interesting to know what the scientific consent is on how much is too much in fertilizers/plant products. But I'm not sure that there even is one.
Without further knowledge I just stay with professional products.
Over here they have to be approved to be used on food crops as far as I know, so I feel pretty save. Don't know about the situation in America.
But for situations without real regulations like the "hydro" market it would sure be very interesting to know more about it.
And some products, like products that are not mineral fertilizers (terpinator?), shouldn't contain any measurable amount I guess.
(Edit:
The first lines are not especially directed to you hawkman, just general. "Heavy metals" is often used as buzzword in scare tactics so I thought I should write something about that they're everywhere, always and partially even essential...)
All fertilizers contain heavy metals, mineral fertilizers and organic fertilizers.
Real soil contains heavy metals as well and sometimes quite a lot and I'd bet soilless mixes and coco too.
Some of them, like Fe, Cu, Mo, Mn etc, are essential for plants (and for almost every living thing...).
So it's really about what exactly and the amount, you have to look at it very differentiated.
It's not that easy I'm afraid.
It would be interesting to know what the scientific consent is on how much is too much in fertilizers/plant products. But I'm not sure that there even is one.
Without further knowledge I just stay with professional products.
Over here they have to be approved to be used on food crops as far as I know, so I feel pretty save. Don't know about the situation in America.
But for situations without real regulations like the "hydro" market it would sure be very interesting to know more about it.
And some products, like products that are not mineral fertilizers (terpinator?), shouldn't contain any measurable amount I guess.
(Edit:
The first lines are not especially directed to you hawkman, just general. "Heavy metals" is often used as buzzword in scare tactics so I thought I should write something about that they're everywhere, always and partially even essential...)
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