Ideal temp co2?

[sgt. schultz]

I have no idea what this means. Assuming it's an upside down pot plant, how did it fare?

William Alexander did the whole indoor hydro tomato thing with all the bells and whistles. He wrote a book called the $64.00 tomato. He averaged $64.00 per tomato. I am certain set up costs compounded that. Maybe his second batch could have been $20.00 per tomato.

The $64 Tomato: How One Man Nearly Lost His Sanity, Spent a Fortune, and Endured an Existential Crisis in the Quest for the Perfect Garden [William ...

 

[ttystikk]

Any of us could do better. He seems to have profited by his incompetence, judging by the title...

 

[sgt. schultz]

Cool article. Gracias amigo.

 

[sgt. schultz]

My post I have tried to add 4 times to the above quote on chrome.
I use a study that shows benefits topping out at 1050 ppm. Your paper you posted here shows it before 1200 ppm. yet you want to go 1500 ppm. The guy is carrying co2 and you think it is ok to waste 25-30%. JK

My basic CAP controller cuts on at 900 ppm and cuts off at 1450 ppm. Should average 1175 ppm. 12% above your 1050 ppm. Is that 12% lost or can I maximize it with temp and RH which I can control? If not, tax refund will have to be better controller. Carrying those tanks no joke with bad back. Suerte shifu.

 

[sgt. schultz]

Any of us could do better. He seems to have profited by his incompetence, judging by the title...

He started with thousands of set up. Just like most here. Successive would get cheaper because equipment in place but probably never be worth not growing tomatoes outdoors. Looking for suggestions on heirlooms.

 

[woodsmaneh]

Waiting to see how that turns out.

Well on my second run I have a serious overgrowth issue, dam trees in week 2 and I have been running temps lights on to a max of 93.4 and night of 68.2 and 48% rh, CO2 at 1500ppm, water temp 68 and pH 5.5 and 500 ppm. Plants look great and I'm running Sin City Seeds Nightfire OG, my number 7 cut.

I'll move the rest of the updates to my ongoing thread.

 

[woodsmaneh]

My basic CAP controller cuts on at 900 ppm and cuts off at 1450 ppm. Should average 1175 ppm. 12% above your 1050 ppm. Is that 12% lost or can I maximize it with temp and RH which I can control? If not, tax refund will have to be better controller. Carrying those tanks no joke with bad back. Suerte shifu.

OK so lets say you wasting it, BBQ tank is 25$ here to fill so the 12% waste cost 2.75$ so lets say 1 tank every 10 days, with a 7 week grow = 5 tanks with 12% waste = $13.75 wasted x 6 grows a year = $82.50 a year in wasted gas. All these years using too much CO2 I'm such a dummy, do the math and don't waste your time on low returns to you and your garden.

I don't want to go into teaching everyone about CO2 it's too frustrating with a 1000 word posting limit. Guys were talking about maybe 300 ppm more than most use and people can go on and on but there are so many variables involved, running at 1200 or 1500 with get the job done.

Variables

Plant genetics
Room, sealed or not
Air movement
Air exchange
Time CO2 is on
Time CO2 is off
Open and close the door
Number of plants
Size of plants
Temperature
RH
quality of food
Quantity of food
and more but you should get the idea.

 

[sgt. schultz]

My co2 sensor can only be 6 feet away from my controller my room is 15x20x9 so no matter where I put it some part of the room is never going to get up to 1200 ppm because of the proximity to the generator, so to be sure I have 1200 at a minimum I run higher. Plants that get too much co2 show signs of necrosis on the leaves or stop feeding. I have not run into that. Knowing what signs to look for allows me do use CO2 to my full advantage. Nothing wrong with running Co2 at 700, 900, 1000 or 1200 and anywhere in between, but to say it does not work?


Too much CO2 is bad for the plants. Too high CO2 level lowers plants' transpiration during photosynthesis: without or with less transpiration less nutritive solution is drawn threw the plant, thus less food enters the plant and growth slows down. Under too high CO2 level, necrosis spots (dead tissue) appear on leaves that may also roll into themselves. These dead tissue spots are a great food for bacteria and molds. Too much of a good thing, again, turns out bad results like a lower weighted yield per plant and a lower quality produce.

Word.

 

[sgt. schultz]

Well on my second run I have a serious overgrowth issue, dam trees in week 2 and I have been running temps lights on to a max of 93.4 and night of 68.2 and 48% rh, CO2 at 1500ppm, water temp 68 and pH 5.5 and 500 ppm. Plants look great and I'm running Sin City Seeds Nightfire OG, my number 7 cut.

I'll move the rest of the updates to my ongoing thread.

Gonna check it out but right now scared to even approach 90* much less exceed it for fear of fluffy buds. If 90* plus works out, imagine the electricity savings on ac.

 

[sgt. schultz]

OK so lets say you wasting it, BBQ tank is 25$ here to fill so the 12% waste cost 2.75$ so lets say 1 tank every 10 days, with a 7 week grow = 5 tanks with 12% waste = $13.75 wasted x 6 grows a year = $82.50 a year in wasted gas. All these years using too much CO2 I'm such a dummy, do the math and don't waste your time on low returns to you and your garden.

I don't want to go into teaching everyone about CO2 it's too frustrating with a 1000 word posting limit. Guys were talking about maybe 300 ppm more than most use and people can go on and on but there are so many variables involved, running at 1200 or 1500 with get the job done.

Variables

Plant genetics
Room, sealed or not
Air movement
Air exchange
Time CO2 is on
Time CO2 is off
Open and close the door
Number of plants
Size of plants
Temperature
RH
quality of food
Quantity of food
and more but you should get the idea.

Not questioning your math or motives. Your figures are based on $25 for 20lb bbq tank. You are not factoring in 175lb tanks (which as mentioned way 350lbs min) for $36 that hold nearly 9 times as much. 9 bbq tanks @ $25 equals $225 compared to $36. That is why I lug those heavy %#*&'s. If I didn't have strong brother, as you, I wouldn't even consider monster tanks. Message is, if you have reasonably strong confidant, savings are available with Big Brutus tanks. If not, bbq tanks great alternative. You make good arguments non-sensitively. Enjoy reading your posts. Peace, man.

 

[woodsmaneh]

Not questioning your math or motives. Your figures are based on $25 for 20lb bbq tank. You are not factoring in 175lb tanks (which as mentioned way 350lbs min) for $36 that hold nearly 9 times as much. 9 bbq tanks @ $25 equals $225 compared to $36. That is why I lug those heavy %#*&'s. If I didn't have strong brother, as you, I wouldn't even consider monster tanks. Message is, if you have reasonably strong confidant, savings are available with Big Brutus tanks. If not, bbq tanks great alternative. You make good arguments non-sensitively. Enjoy reading your posts. Peace, man.

I hear you bro but this old MF saves his back for riding a hardtail lol. I would use the big tanks too, but like you said heavy mothers. I'm not trying to convince you to use BBQ tanks, the difference in cost sure makes a difference. Maybe I'll go man-handle one of the big guys and see what I think...

I would keep your temps where your comfortable and within normal guidelines, I'm always playing around on the edges to see what happens, aqnd building stuff ect. I just can't leave stuff alone.

Not questioning your math or motives. Your figures are based on $25 for 20lb bbq tank. You are not factoring in 175lb tanks (which as mentioned way 350lbs min) for $36 that hold nearly 9 times as much. 9 bbq tanks @ $25 equals $225 compared to $36. That is why I lug those heavy %#*&'s. If I didn't have strong brother, as you, I wouldn't even consider monster tanks. Message is, if you have reasonably strong confidant, savings are available with Big Brutus tanks. If not, bbq tanks great alternative. You make good arguments non-sensitively. Enjoy reading your posts. Peace, man.

Most of this was for JK bro and I love when people question me or what I say, keeps us all on our toes and keeps me on top of my game. Never stop questioning and never stop learning.

Positive vibes your way bro.

Canna has a real good paper on CO2 you should have a look at. You need to join the canna club no cost to see it http://www.canna.com.au/co2_building_blocks_for_plants

 

[GR33NL3AF]

Well on my second run I have a serious overgrowth issue, dam trees in week 2 and I have been running temps lights on to a max of 93.4 and night of 68.2 and 48% rh, CO2 at 1500ppm, water temp 68 and pH 5.5 and 500 ppm. Plants look great and I'm running Sin City Seeds Nightfire OG, my number 7 cut.

I'll move the rest of the updates to my ongoing thread.

Holy shit! 93.4 at the canopy??

 

[woodsmaneh]

Holy shit! 93.4 at the canopy??

Yup here they are, these are night shots and most of the cages are 4 feet high.

 

[GR33NL3AF]

Yup here they are, these are night shots and most of the cages are 4 feet high.

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Well if this doesnt prove high temps aid in CO2 intake then I do not know what does. Granted you have many other factors contributing to their rapid growth but I will be up'ing my temps today, thanks woodsy!

 

[woodsmaneh]

Well if this doesnt prove high temps aid in CO2 intake then I do not know what does. Granted you have many other factors contributing to their rapid growth but I will be upping my temps today, thanks woodsy!

Thanks for the vote of confidence, but don't rush out to do this just now, stick around and see what happens, first time may have been dumb luck. I don't think so but last night temps got up to 99 and they still look great for first week of flower. I have re-adjusted my sensors so I don't get to 99 anymore, I'm shooting for 95 tops. I would go to 90 without to much worry, when I was working with 85 as the target, my temps would wander into 90 once in a while and I saw no issues. The more I read on the subject the less harm I think this will do. There are all kinds of benefits to using not only CO2, but me thinks temperatures can be higher with MJ than reported before.

If there is an abundance of CO2 the plant will need less Stomata to process it, this means the plant can put more resources into creating food from the conversion = more time spent growing big flowers and not working on converting CO2. At night if they have too much CO2 from the day time they spit it out.

My growing time is 7 to 5 days faster!!!

Now I think a real important point here is I'm using RDWC to get my results and your mileage may vary depending on how you grow.

 

[woodsmaneh]

Here we go, not a lot of detail but you can see why I'm chasing this info.

CANNABIS GROW ROOM TEMPERATURE

Proper temperature is one highly variable factor. Most books state optimum grow temperature to be 70-80 degrees, but many list extenuating circumstances that allow temperatures to go higher. Assuming genetics is not a factor, plants seem to be able to absorb more light at higher temps, perhaps up to 90 degrees. High light and CO2 levels could make this go as high as 95 degrees for increased growth speed.* An optimum of 95 degrees is new data that assumes very-high light, CO2 enrichment of 1500 ppm and good regular venting to keep humidity down. It is not clear if these temperature will reduce potency in flowers. It may be a good idea to reduce temperatures once flowering has started, to preserve potency, even if it does reduce growth speed. But higher temperatures will make plants grow vegetatively much faster, by exciting the plants metabolism, assuming the required levels of CO2 and light are available, and humidity is not allowed to get too high.​

With normal levels of CO2, in a well vented space, 90 degrees would seem to be the absolute max, while 85 may be closer to optimum, even with a great deal of light available. Do not let the room temperature get over 35 C (95 F) as this hurts growth. Optimal temperature is 27-30 C (80-86 F) if you have strong light with no CO2 enrichment. Less than 21 C (70 F) is too cold for good growth.​

Low temperatures at night are OK down to about 60 degrees outdoors, then start to effect the growth in a big way. Mid 50s will cause mild shock and 40s will kill your plants with repeated exposure. Keep your plants warm, especially the roots. Elevate pots if you think the ground is sucking the heat out of the roots. This is an issue if you have a slab or other type of cold floor.​

As temperature goes up, so does the ability of the air to hold water, thus reducing humidity, so a higher average temperature should reduce risk of fungus.​

Contrary to many reports, high humidity is not good for plants except during germination and rooting. Lower humidity levels help the plant transpire CO2 and reduce risk of molds during flowering.​

Studies indicate the potency of buds goes down as the temperature goes up, so it is important to see that the plants do not get too hot during flowering cycles.​

* D. Gold: CO2, Temperature and Humidity, 1991 Edited by E. Rosenthal.


I did not notice any difference but that's just me. Yup 90 is safe I guess. Now this is very old research and I'm still looking for more and more.

 

[sgt. schultz]

Yup here they are, these are night shots and most of the cages are 4 feet high.

View attachment 346372View attachment 346373View attachment 346374View attachment 346375

To me they look kinda droopy. I think you need to dial your temps back some. Walking the fine line one thing, 95*-99*.....you might be pushing it bro. Good luck.

 

[pussOGbrah]

powda mildew get on it bro it will get out of control quick

 

[bat_j]

Here's what appears here in Europe about the topic:

These are in Celsius, so it appears that maximum rate of photosynthesis (at 1935 ppm CO2) is achieved at a temperature of 102.2 degrees Fahrenheit (assuming the illuminance is approximately 100,000 lux, which is about what the Sun delivers at most during the day here, on our planet Earth, I guess). I know this might seem absolutely ludicrous, but 1935 ppm CO2 is a lot (drowsiness starts at 10,000 ppm, so it's doesn't seem to be dangerous)!

Good luck!

 

[woodsmaneh]

To me they look kinda droopy. I think you need to dial your temps back some. Walking the fine line one thing, 95*-99*.....you might be pushing it bro. Good luck.

Some strains do that at night they lose some turgidity but it come back as soon as the lights come on, I'll post some lights on pix so you can see what I mean.. Temps at night are in the low 70's. Well that's how I learn by screwing up and I have done lots of that, lol.

Here's what appears here in Europe about the topic:

These are in Celsius, so it appears that maximum rate of photosynthesis (at 1935 ppm CO2) is achieved at a temperature of 102.2 degrees Fahrenheit (assuming the illuminance is approximately 100,000 lux, which is about what the Sun delivers at most during the day here, on our planet Earth, I guess). I know this might seem absolutely ludicrous, but 1935 ppm CO2 is a lot (drowsiness starts at 10,000 ppm, so it's doesn't seem to be dangerous)!

Good luck!

Well that's great to know, maybe that's why it is working so well, the higher numbers scare even me. Just think of the money you can save on cooling. I'm going to stay at 95 and 1500 ppm for this grow as that's what I did last grow, trying to replicate the last grow.

powda mildew get on it bro it will get out of control quick

Good call 1+

So now that I'm running at 95 I have a bigger condensation issue on my pods as the chiller is at 68, this has caused higher constant RH 70+ and now pm is appearing. I will spray all the plants today with H2O2 and Rhizotonic. I put a de-humidifier in the room and will keep the rh at 50%. Yes I should insulate the pods, I took the insulation off to help cool the room in the summer so guess I'll put it back on. See what happens when you get lazy