squiggly
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<facepalm> Did I mention it's been a loong time since I've worked an equation? What do you do with someone who forgets the order/sequence? Either way, again, thank you and this chemistry/chemical confirmation is exactly what *I* need to continue going on my way. One thing that threw me off was seeing the H2O in there, I didn't realize I could end up breaking the shells down into water. The CO2 production was quite evident, though.Read the equation again:
Reactants Products
CaCO3+ 2H+ -> Ca+2 + H2O +CO2
You are ending up with Ca+2, which is what you are after (this is the plant-available form of calcium).
No worries, I mostly needed to be certain that I'm not adding more carbonates to the soils. Like I said, I have enough carbonates already.This reaction does not ultimately follow an exact equilibrium, because the products side is thermodynamically favored. However, if there is too much Ca+2 present in solution the reaction can stop. Explaining this would require a healthy lesson on thermodynamics--and several diagrams.
Sadly I've got some NMRs to look through and annotate for my professor so I can't do that at the moment :)
Definitely, along with some form of Fe, based on how it stains the toilets and other plumbing fixtures.I think this should suffice, you are doing the proper thing to get what you want--try using more acid initially to fully dissolve the eggshells. Failing that, strain out the remaining particulate matter and get to feeding.
As for your water, I'm betting you've got CaCO3 and MgCO3 in there.
What nutrients can lock each other out?
I have seen a "cloud" when mixing nutes. Somewhere here, I read that is elements binding together and locking up.
Silica and magnesium will lock each other out if not diluted properly, correct?
What nutrients can lock each other out?
I have seen a "cloud" when mixing nutes. Somewhere here, I read that is elements binding together and locking up.
Silica and magnesium will lock each other out if not diluted properly, correct?
What nutrients can lock each other out?
I have seen a "cloud" when mixing nutes. Somewhere here, I read that is elements binding together and locking up.
Silica and magnesium will lock each other out if not diluted properly, correct?
To answer your Q:
if you're using silica, and working at typical dilution rates, its more than likely that the Si and your pH is whats causing the precipitation (cloudy appearance.)
silicate salts are highly alkaline. when added to solution they raise the solutions pH. As pH raises to greater than 8 (>8), the form that silica takes in water changes from non reactive, non-ionic monosilicic acid, to reactive, ionic polysilicic acids that react with other minerals (unsure of which ones) and precipitate out of solution, giving the cloudy appearance.
Basically at high pH (>8) silica changes forms to a form that can react with other minerals and precipitate out of solution. The best way to prevent this is to add your silicate salt first out of all nutrients, and then lower the pH (add acid) to levels that will insure that pH wont rise to >8 when adding your other nutrients.
Magnesium is mag sulfate. not just mag alone.
Calcium nitrate combined with sulphates and phosphates lock out.
Silica changes the ph above 10 and then you get the lockout. I found by adding the silicon to the res and then ph'ing within a safe range for plants prevents the lockout.
If I go and add the silicon without the ph adjustment I will get lockout and a cloudy solution.
That is what have noticed from my experience with silica and the very little experience I have with mixing salts.
1. silica, then citric acid for ph down.
2. phosphates
3. mag sulfate
4 calcium/micros
Look forward to seeing what others have to share on that subject. I found knowing the order to mix was very helpful to me when getting started.
If you feel cautious about mixing salts. Give the growmore or jacks, along with calcium nitrate and mag sulfate a shot. Easy to use and get your feet wet.
I may be able to do a bit better than that ^^^^ at a later time. Right now I'm murdering my face with mathematical symbols studying for an exam. There's a chart or two I can get for you that can give you a bit of a guide on this if I dig enough.
you are correct.While they may have different amounts to get different ratios, do they not all dissolve to the same elements: N, P, K, Ca etc etc.
You can look at fertilizer databases at products levels of contaminants that were found in the products to give you a decent clue. but most companies just use basic fert grade salts.Granted not all salts are created equal and I'm sure thy are not all 100% pure, I think it's safe to say that when it comes to most commercial nute company's they all probably use relatively the same purities and I dn think there is anyway to determine if one company uses a more pure salt than another.
So finally to my question, is all the debate about which is the best nutrient really just about strain and ratio. Which strain fits which nutrient. IMO most nute company's, GH, Botanicare, Heavy16, canna, HG, even AN, base nutrients are probably all created very similar. And while their supplements, labeling practices, *AN cough* and customer service may be different because they are using all similar ingredients the only thing u are choosing between is a ratio.
I just can't see why, from a chemical stand point, GH is better then HG or what ever besides that their ratio fits your strain better. Again this is not in regards to supplements as all the extra chemicals and unlabled things that go into them make them essentially impossible to compare, just strictly base nutes. I apologize if that was hard to understand I'm on my phone and its quite hard to edit this and review it
Is it likely that the product "Hedione", a combination of 4 sterioisomers of methyl dihydrojasmonate with one being very dominant, has similar phytoactivity as the different forms of methyl dihydrojasmonate used in these 2 studies?
1st study:
EFFECTS OF OCTADECANOID METABOLITES AND INHIBITORS ON INDUCED NICOTINE ACCUMULATION IN Nicotiana sylvestris
IAN T. BALDWIN, ERIC A. SCHMELZ, and ZONG-PING ZHANG
"The dhMJ contained 98.14% 1R,2R dhMJ and 1.86% 1R,2S dhMJ and did not contain detectable quantities of MJ."
2nd study:
STRUCTURAL REQUIREMENTS OF JASMONATES AND MIMICS FOR NICOTINE INDUCTION IN Nicotiana sylvestris
ZONG-PING ZHANG, THOMAS KRUMM, and IAN T. BALDWIN
used both normal Methyl Dihydrojasmonate
and 1,3-dioxolane methyl dihydrojasmonate (turned out to be significantly less phytoactive)
Can you think of any other jasmonates that have significant phytoactivity that can be purchased at a similar price to Hedione (<$100/kg)
big fan of yours squiggly, although i strongly disagree with your belief that ketone production or the state of ketosis is unhealthy. Too many studies on ketogenic diets for me to agree with you.
Hay Squiggly, When Purging BHO , using a double boil method, is it safe to assume that all of the BHO is and has been removed. Is it really a good idea to do a second double boil for purging. I have never made BHO as of yet, I made my first batch of iso which came out extremely well, but it seems my customer base prefers BHO, and I would like to give them the best possible product.
Also this vacuum purging stuff is it really necessary, and if we could chat about that and what is needed to make the apparatus and how it works I would love to pick your brain bro.
im guessing the boil method is where you heat the BHO with boiling water to control the tempt @ 100C?Hay Squiggly, When Purging BHO , using a double boil method, is it safe to assume that all of the BHO is and has been removed. Is it really a good idea to do a second double boil for purging. I have never made BHO as of yet, I made my first batch of iso which came out extremely well, but it seems my customer base prefers BHO, and I would like to give them the best possible product.
Also this vacuum purging stuff is it really necessary, and if we could chat about that and what is needed to make the apparatus and how it works I would love to pick your brain bro.
I cant say how long it needs to be heated @ 100C to remove all the butane (cant imagine it takes much time) .
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