dizzlekush
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I never realized the oil could be that thick at high temperatures as to prevent the butane from being purged. Shows my lack of experience. I've always winterised my BHO, which seems to be a fairly uncommon practice amongst erlers, but the ethanol bath allows for the butane to be purged very easily with heat. Never realized that winterising was aiding the purge that much though.It depends on the amount of oil and the container size. It also depends on the strain. Some produce more viscious oil.
If its 4 cases of butane and 250 grams of oil in a 8x8 pyrex dish....its never gonna boil off at 100 degrees. The oil is too thick for the butane to get out without vigorous stirring or a vac
So finally to my question, is all the debate about which is the best nutrient really just about strain and ratio.
This is a question, I give u the fact that it doesn't have a ? But u know typing on a phone isn't the easiest thing. No need for any attitude for grammatical errors. Thank you for answering the question it does clear things up some. I find that most nute companies use more or less the same chelators and I've def seen the urea in AN which I have never understood except for that its cheaper.
Hey squiggly I dnt get the chance to check the farm as often as I used to but it is great to see a thread like this. Thank you
I have a question regarding nute brands and please excuse me if I kind of stumble through asking this
So from my understanding from looking at many many different nutrient bottles and ingredients and ratios is that they are all made from relatively the same salts, calcium nitrate, MKP, mag sulfate, K nitrate, K sulfate, MAP, K silicate, etc and then many forms of micro elements. While they may have different amounts to get different ratios, do they not all dissolve to the same elements: N, P, K, Ca etc etc.
Granted not all salts are created equal and I'm sure thy are not all 100% pure, I think it's safe to say that when it comes to most commercial nute company's they all probably use relatively the same purities and I dn think there is anyway to determine if one company uses a more pure salt than another.
So finally to my question, is all the debate about which is the best nutrient really just about strain and ratio. Which strain fits which nutrient. IMO most nute company's, GH, Botanicare, Heavy16, canna, HG, even AN, base nutrients are probably all created very similar. And while their supplements, labeling practices, *AN cough* and customer service may be different because they are using all similar ingredients the only thing u are choosing between is a ratio.
Hay Squiggly, When Purging BHO , using a double boil method, is it safe to assume that all of the BHO is and has been removed.
Is it really a good idea to do a second double boil for purging.
I have never made BHO as of yet, I made my first batch of iso which came out extremely well, but it seems my customer base prefers BHO, and I would like to give them the best possible product.
Also this vacuum purging stuff is it really necessary, and if we could chat about that and what is needed to make the apparatus and how it works I would love to pick your brain bro.
Your question requires me to read stuff--I'll answer it but you'll have to give me some time :)damn my Q got skipped.
If you are providing this to customers invest in a vacuum chamber. This is the only way to be certain the butane has been fully purged (even with this method if not done using an exceptional process will leave trace amounts).
That said, butane is fairly innocuous--if you have removed the butane taste, it's essentially safe to smoke. It combusts to CO2 and H2o like every other hydrocarbon in existence (potentially a very small generation of CO, but very unlikely).
What do you mean by 'exceptional process'?
Waaaiiit a minute. While it's true that hydrocarbons all EVENTUALLY break down to CO2 and H2O, there are plenty of stops along the way to complete combustion, very few of which are good for you. It's these byproducts of incomplete combustion that taste objectionably- and can often have serious health consequences when ingested or inhaled.
Hence why I said if you get rid of the taste :)
If there are only trace amounts around--they are more than likely going to combust completely. It's an equilibrium thing.
Far as exceptional process in this case that amounts to evaporating from an incredibly thin film. The thicker you get the less you'll ultimately get out and the more times you'll have to do it to maximize removal.
squiggly you getting close to being able to tackle my Q?
squiggly you getting close to being able to tackle my Q?
As i understand it, what you say is only actually relevant for Calcium and Boron which are passively taken up by root tips with water, all other nutrients are actively removed from the rhizosphere independent of the rate of water absorption/transpiration.^^ Gospel, my brothers, read and be enlightened!!
I strongly agree with the above, and I can provide a concrete example:
Relative humidity directly and drastically affects the plant's preference of EC/TDS. the higher the RH in the growing space, the stronger the nutrient mix should be in order to be adequately available to the plant's tissues after the plants has transported them up from its roots.
Why, you may ask? Because- and here's where Squiggly's 'favored reactions' theme takes the stage for a moment- as humidity rises, the plant can spend less of its limited energy lifting water and more on growing larger. Less water being transported means less nutrient delivered to the growing tips unless EC is increased. As the RH reaches the ideal VPD (vapor pressure differential) range, the plant is able to open its stomata fully and take up more CO2 and grow more rapidly- as fast as possible, in fact, to the limits of that garden's conditions- thus requiring even more nutrients.
Just thought I'd post something here instead of starting a new thread about something which struck me recently.
pH is temperature dependent, and that means that when you're trying to have fine control over the kinetic properties of a solution (either your reservoir water--or what it is you're watering in)--which is essentially the point of adjusting pH--it matters BIG TIME what the temperature is of your water.
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