S
SnowWhite
- 5
- 3
I have never topped babies before...any suggestions? Por favor
Moondawg420
- 120
- 43
I usually wait till about the third or fourth internode and then clip
S
SnowWhite
- 5
- 3
Thank you
LexLuthor
- 2,972
- 263
I top at the 4th or 5th node, after the 2 new stems grow about 1-2" I prune the bottom so there are only 4 main branches, good luck.
woodsmaneh
- 1,724
- 263
I top a few days before I flip, this gives me on average 3 to 7 top colas.
The last Pix is of 1 plant.
It works best on Indica and Indica X's
Shhhhhhhh it's a super cropping secret.
:cool:
The last Pix is of 1 plant.
It works best on Indica and Indica X's
Shhhhhhhh it's a super cropping secret.
:cool:
ttystikk
- 6,892
- 313
Woodman don't know squat. You shouldn't listen to him. I mean, he only gets 2-3 bows of chronic dankness per plant. What a loser...
(And if you believe this, boy have I got a bridge to sell YOU!)
(And if you believe this, boy have I got a bridge to sell YOU!)
ttystikk
- 6,892
- 313
Topping and training is like chess; no moves makes sense unless it is part of a larger strategy.
Don't top your girls if you want to grow big trees, at least not early. If you want to grow a low, wide plant then top early and often. Strain choice is the biggest single variable, even more so than the setup requirements. This means you need to become intimately familiar with your strain's growth and stretch characteristics.
Don't top your girls if you want to grow big trees, at least not early. If you want to grow a low, wide plant then top early and often. Strain choice is the biggest single variable, even more so than the setup requirements. This means you need to become intimately familiar with your strain's growth and stretch characteristics.
Nutts
- 255
- 43
I top around the sixth or seventh. But I don't actually top. I usually fim then tie em down. Then untie later so I don't lose the top bud. Just habit. Not saying its the best way but it works for me.
Bannacis
- 1,238
- 163
That's Nutts..................nice bucket of buds...I love super cropping/tying down/fimming. you can have fewer plants but more bigger buds...as you can see.. thanks for posting.:woot:
E.Csticks187
- 47
- 18
I definitely need help topping.. My lil ones in vege are getting kinda tall. Is it okay if I post pics on this thread and you guys could possible help me. This is my first grow!! And they look very foreign at this point. Lol, hope you can help with my questions
TheTommyK
- 334
- 63
Great question that I Also am looking for answers on.
How do bubba kush respond to fim and or lst? Can someone point me to some good posts on both (fim and lst)
How do bubba kush respond to fim and or lst? Can someone point me to some good posts on both (fim and lst)
woodsmaneh
- 1,724
- 263
Well here we go, LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield.
Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at.
Light Brown : Pot Outline
Green thick Lines : Main Stem
Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top : Fan leafs
Yellow Lines : Side Branches
Red : Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks its easier)
The Text in the box : First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)
Now that thats out of the way lets get it on..
Please note, you dont have to do it this way, its just the idea of how to do LST, this is the way i did it and you can see the end result of 4 weeks of growth this way in my signature picture where it says FIM/LST. Some may opt to use the eggcrate method where you utilize an eggcrate around the pot and tie it down to that with zipties instead of using string or hooks running from the pot itself... this way you can cover more square footage and maximize your yield even more.
Ok heres the STEPS PICTURE for you to follow along with.
STEP 1 : Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.
STEP 2 : Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.
STEP 3 : This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.
STEP 4 : Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.
STEP 5 : Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.
STEP 6 : Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.
STEP 7 : Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.
STEP 8 : Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.
STEP 9 : After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light.... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.
During flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.
Set your timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom
Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at.
Light Brown : Pot Outline
Green thick Lines : Main Stem
Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top : Fan leafs
Yellow Lines : Side Branches
Red : Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks its easier)
The Text in the box : First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)
Now that thats out of the way lets get it on..
Please note, you dont have to do it this way, its just the idea of how to do LST, this is the way i did it and you can see the end result of 4 weeks of growth this way in my signature picture where it says FIM/LST. Some may opt to use the eggcrate method where you utilize an eggcrate around the pot and tie it down to that with zipties instead of using string or hooks running from the pot itself... this way you can cover more square footage and maximize your yield even more.
Ok heres the STEPS PICTURE for you to follow along with.
STEP 1 : Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.
STEP 2 : Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.
STEP 3 : This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.
STEP 4 : Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.
STEP 5 : Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.
STEP 6 : Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.
STEP 7 : Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.
STEP 8 : Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.
STEP 9 : After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light.... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.
During flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.
Set your timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom
woodsmaneh
- 1,724
- 263
ScrOG Resources
The ScrOG-O-Rama download is a collection of more than 130 threaded posts of questions and discussions on the ScrOG technique. The posts were made when I first introduced the technique to growers on the Internet in 1997 in the alt.drugs.pot.cultivation (adpc) news group on Usenet. This blast from the past has been sitting in my archives gathering dust ever since illustrated versions describing this new indoor technique started finding their way to adpc member's web sites, and www based cannabis messaging boards had opened forums dedicated to the technique. If you're an old timer from adpc you might find yourself in this archive, but be forewarned, you could experience a flashback or two of adpc before www message boards gained popularity:-) If you're curious about history you may be interested that the technique originated on the Internet's original cannabis cultivation messaging board, and that not much has changed with the fundamentals of the technique since it was first introduced there. See the download page, but first please view the readmefirst.txt file (also included with the download) for tips on how to best view its content. Speaking of history, here's a link to NPKaye's archive, the first web site to illustrate the original Screen Of Green before the name was abbreviated as ScrOG.
There are many Internet sites with ScrOG resources or forums entirely or partially devoted to the ScrOG technique. Click here for a partial listing from Google's search engine.
The ScrOG-O-Rama download is a collection of more than 130 threaded posts of questions and discussions on the ScrOG technique. The posts were made when I first introduced the technique to growers on the Internet in 1997 in the alt.drugs.pot.cultivation (adpc) news group on Usenet. This blast from the past has been sitting in my archives gathering dust ever since illustrated versions describing this new indoor technique started finding their way to adpc member's web sites, and www based cannabis messaging boards had opened forums dedicated to the technique. If you're an old timer from adpc you might find yourself in this archive, but be forewarned, you could experience a flashback or two of adpc before www message boards gained popularity:-) If you're curious about history you may be interested that the technique originated on the Internet's original cannabis cultivation messaging board, and that not much has changed with the fundamentals of the technique since it was first introduced there. See the download page, but first please view the readmefirst.txt file (also included with the download) for tips on how to best view its content. Speaking of history, here's a link to NPKaye's archive, the first web site to illustrate the original Screen Of Green before the name was abbreviated as ScrOG.
There are many Internet sites with ScrOG resources or forums entirely or partially devoted to the ScrOG technique. Click here for a partial listing from Google's search engine.
woodsmaneh
- 1,724
- 263
TheTommyK
- 334
- 63
AWESOME..... That's what i was looking for .... Best thread on this forum SO FAR!!!!!!!!
TheTommyK
- 334
- 63
So does strain play a role? are there strains that respond to this better than others? I have Bubba Kush to grow right now .... but i also have a Sativa (unconfirmed strain) that I would benefit from LST .... to get it friggen shorter. its a good producer ... but tall for indoors.
woodsmaneh
- 1,724
- 263
youtube has some vids also
TheTommyK
- 334
- 63
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for when it comes to FIM-ing ..... LOL read the article ..... it FINNNALLLLLYYYYY explained what "FIM" stands for!!!!!! TOOOOO funny!!!!
woodsmaneh
- 1,724
- 263
I top most of my plants 1 week before 12/12 but some plants just take off so when that happens I bend them over, you crush the stock between nodes by rolling it between your thumb and fore finger and once you do this roll and bend the stock the way you want it to go, stop crushing when you feel it collapse, you don't want it to flop over you want a 45 elbow. I do this right up to week 4 of flower
Nutts
- 255
- 43
You guys are more than welcome to post in my journal. I have the whole process in pics. It's super easy and so worth the time. The best way to start is to tie the plant over sideways and let the lowest branch become the main stem They really take off then you can untie em and they don't stand straight again they pretty much stay where you trained em to go. First photo is a twelve twelve from seed. Never manipulated. Second photo is a fimmed and tied plant.
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