So how many of you have found certain strains that no matter what you do they never burn with a white ash?
I have.
I agree with that.... the only difference in black vs white ash is the temperature. Black ash that has excess nutes and what not have a higher amount of carbons that dont combust at low temps. If you hit it blow torch style then pretty much everything will turn white eventually.Anything I smoke turns to white ash.
I one hit kill the whole bowl until it pulls through the bowl on its own at the end of the draw.
This whole white ash thing is a joke lol.
I can make pipe/bong resin turn to white ash too... good thing I don't smoke that anymore though.
I agree with that.... the only difference in black vs white ash is the temperature. Black ash that has excess nutes and what not have a higher amount of carbons that dont combust at low temps. If you hit it blow torch style then pretty much everything will turn white eventually.
I agree with that.... the only difference in black vs white ash is the temperature. Black ash that has excess nutes and what not have a higher amount of carbons that dont combust at low temps. If you hit it blow torch style then pretty much everything will turn white eventually.
I know there is something to excess nutrients. My buddy that grows out doors uses teas+super soil+roots organic line(the whole 7 bottle line or whatever).... he will swear to santajesusgod that his shit is clean and good bud but every time i get his samples im not impressed ... it burns black (with just puffs and a bic lighter) and his weed has an after taste thats like giving a cow a rim job. Im more of the less is more type only using 2 products (a base and boost nute) and mine tastes cleaner and burns white every time.You're going in the right direction with your thoughts on carbon and the length of the carbon chain for each molecule. Except it's not just in the nutrients it's the mater of everything on earth.
I learned to grow 15+ years ago in hydro, using a nutrient profile that's balanced for cannabis. It grew quite clean cannabis originally, even with my new efforts, I have only improved since.Then I would question you're true knowledge on marijuana strains and the associated Turpienes and Flavonoids and their boiling points.
I rarely feed over 500ppm. Most times it's in the 450ppm range at a .5 conversion scale. No heavy bloom boosters or snake oils. My total P rise is around 30ppm in flower.
when people talk about "burn to white ash" they mean as in the blunt, joint or 1st hit of the bowl/bong. of course if you apply enough fire to anything it will eventually burn to white ash. we mean does your blunt, joint constantly go out, burn to black ash if left to smolder or hit lightly without the force of hercules lungs. will the ash be white all the way from the cherry or will it be black near the cherry and various shades of dark gray in the ash.
Ya like boiling points.. combustion temps. Like some carbons have higher ignition points kinda thing.I learned to grow 15+ years ago in hydro, using a nutrient profile that's balanced for cannabis. It grew quite clean cannabis originally, even with my new efforts, I have only improved since.
The only times I've seen a dark and heavy ash are when I've overfed the plants with it or deviated from the proper mix.
No, it's no surprise that all cannabis strains are the same, in that respect.
Boiling points??
Douglas
Ya like boiling points.. combustion temps. Like some carbons have higher ignition points kinda thing.
None of that is changed in a way that matters for our sources of ignition. That bowl was gentle hits, no torching. It would look the same, even if it was torched.Ya like boiling points.. combustion temps. Like some carbons have higher ignition points kinda thing.
The black ash from nutrients would be a rise in combustion temps. The cleaner the lower the temp. The black stuff is un burned material. You can crack torch it and get it to burn but not just with regular hits and a bic.None of that is changed in a way that matters for our sources of ignition. That bowl was gentle hits, no torching. It would look the same, even if it was torched.
No, as far as I'm aware, the black ash is from nutrient content, not a change in combustion temps of the material.
Douglas
I guess, I'm not interested in what happens at crack torch temps. I really have no experience in that area.The black ash from nutrients would be a rise in combustion temps. The cleaner the lower the temp. The black stuff is un burned material. You can crack torch it and get it to burn but not just with regular hits and a bic.
Great chart... i think 400c is about 750f
So, if your nutrient mix is off, the excess element exceeding reserve capacities for the plant will get stored in new growth without being used. Sucking up excess elements not needed for growth? They're going to be in the end flowers as a contaminant. Flushing will not 'fix' any of this.
Great chart... i think 400c is about 750f
Is that for a bunsen burner or a match/candle?this is wrong. everyone knows the hottest part of the flame is the blue/ clear parts.
Can you post one?for fire...period...
just look at a heatmap or a color temperature guide. the more to red the cooler it is, the more to blue/white the hotter it is.
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